Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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I have long wished for a danish "Lynette" train to exist in model, but without high hopes for it to ever happen. See this link for some examples of it: http://www.transport-siden.dk/g.../thumbnails.php?album=43But I recently discovered that it DOES exist now...... But only as a kit. Yesterday something snapped inside my head, and I got myself one. But it has a long way to go, as it looks like this out of the box:  My only experience in kitbuilding is some Faller and Vollmer houses. This is a completely different ballpark. Although I like the challenge, I would really appreciate any kind of advice you guys/gals may have. First direct question: Am I totally nuts taking on a job like this with the complete lack of knowledge I currently have? Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:56:12(UTC)
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Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC) Posts: 800
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I don't have any experience either, but you tempted me. Which brand is your kit? Is it 3 rails?
Fred
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Joined: 07/08/2002(UTC) Posts: 305 Location: Sydney, NSW
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that looks like a nice little kit, hope all goes well,
kiwi |
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Joined: 03/04/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,605
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Looks like a pretty easy kit, just remember to take your time and don't loose any pieces. I like to devote a whole table to building something like that. Have all of your materials ready like glue and a small sanding block for rough edges. Have fun, looks like a good kit. Good luck! |
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Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,278 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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No mate you are not nuts, enjoy!  This forun has the field covered, [^] help follows.............................. 
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,589 Location: Spain
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Is this one from "Tikoeb"? ;-) (I also grew up with these "Y"-trains. (HHGB))
Remeber to meassure/adjust the wheel spacing (gauge?) for Mäerklin-tracks! |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Yes, it looks easy enough. I am not nervous about the kit assembly. It's more the paint job that follows. The kit is from a little danish shop, called Tikøb Hobby: http://www.tikobhobby.dk/ and I don't think it is available anywhere else. And yes, it is 3-rail.
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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Had a look but again all dutch, sorry Danish to Me |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,589 Location: Spain
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Joined: 06/02/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,383 Location: Darmstadt,
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Very nice assembly kit, congratulations!  Do you plan to install a digital decoder on the railcar ? Well, the painting job will probably need some time. I would recommend to test various paints and painting techniques on some cheap plastic parts (e.g. a soap box) fist, before you apply them to the railcar. Hans Martin
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Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Go for it. How hard can it be?  |
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Joined: 28/04/2002(UTC) Posts: 80 Location: Västra Frölunda
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Hi Mikael
I am really looking forward to see your project get started.I have also been thinking of buying me that kit since I really like the design of those railbuses.I wish you good luck with your project and I hope that it will give me the inspiration to start my own Lynette-project.
Regards,Mats
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Thanks for the link to Barts restoration history. It is GREAT. Now that I see it, I do remember that I've seen it before. But I've totally forgot about it again. I am printing the entire thread to use as a guide and reference "bible" when I get to my paintjob.
And I certainly intend to make it fully digital. With a Faulhaber motor, there really isn't much chance of skipping a good quality decoder. Not that I would anyway. I plan for it to have front/rear and interior lights.
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,689 Location: United Kingdom
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Very good kit,Wish you luck to work on kit.
Keep posted soon. |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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What is the cost of the Kit and is it Digital???
Thsanks.nev |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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The price of the kit is about 300 Euro, and it is NOT digital. It doesn't come with a decoder.
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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A little progress report: After a few attempts, I have now found a good primer that is suitable for model use. It is Motip 01611 white primer that seems to be the best available stuff here in DK. I have also been playing/experimenting with the actual painting. First I made bunch of tests with an old Tamiya spray gun, which has its own battery powered air supply. I never really got the right touch with it. The paint came on alright, but soon it went its own ways. Then I finally found my real airbrush. I knew I had one around here somewhere, but couldn't find it for days. I've never used it before, but as soon as I rigged it up to a real compressor and tested it, everything went above all expectations. I got the paint exactly where I wanted it, when I wanted it and in the amount I wanted. Top nice.
Now I feel more ready to move on to the "real deal". Tomorrow I will prepare the parts, trim them so they all fit nicely, and glue the stuff together. Maybe there is also time to clean them off real good, so they can dry all monday before priming them.
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael <br />.... Maybe there is also time to clean them off real good, so they can dry all monday before priming them.
Looking forward to follow your on-going progress! |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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I just checked the under-carriage for problems, and the motor worked perfectly. Nice and smooth. However, it caused a short circuit every time it went through a slim turnout. Bummer. I checked the wheels, and while the front ones were perfect, the rear ones were too narrow by almost an entire mm. I quickly fixed this, and now it works fine. I have trimmed various parts and washed everything off real good. Then left to dry for several hours, and finally got a spray of primer. This picture is taken while drying the parts. That's another way thick copperwire can be used. This way I can prime the entire shell in one go, inside and out.  Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:56:43(UTC)
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Very interesting project. I am convinced that you will do a perfect job.
Have fun Mikael !
Pierre.
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Time for the next chapter of this story. Seats have been painted:  Motor parts for the bottom have been given their final coat of protective varnish, and are just drying up:  The actual train has been primed two times, and is now ready for some colours:  Finally here it has been given an off-white on the roof, even though it can be hard to see on the picture. Now I have to wait for it to dry up real good, so I can put on some masking tape before the next colour:  Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:56:58(UTC)
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Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 413 Location: ,
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Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Good work, Mikael.
We are looking forward for your progress. |
Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,589 Location: Spain
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Seeing that train brings up so many memories! ;-) Ours (HHGB) was orange("signal red") with a white horizontal stripe. |
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Joined: 07/08/2002(UTC) Posts: 305 Location: Sydney, NSW
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hi mikael wow that looks good, keep up the work, looking forward to seeing the finished model,    kiwi |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by hxmiesa <br />Ours (HHGB) was orange("signal red") with a white horizontal stripe.
And that is exactly how it is going to be.
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Joined: 06/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 913 Location: The Central Coast
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looking very nice mate[:p] |
worse things happen at sea |
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,689 Location: United Kingdom
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excellent work,Keep posted soon.  |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Another day, another bit of progress. First I mask off the roof:  Then I mixed up a nice colour for the sides. It doesn't exist readymade, so it is made of orange with a bit of red added to it. Then it is spray time once again (I love my airbrush):  And that's it for today. Tomorrow more masking awaits, and the lower parts will be getting some gray paint.  Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:57:18(UTC)
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Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,423 Location: Brisbane, QLD
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Mikael, What type of airbrush are you using?
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Cheers, Damon |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by DamonKelly <br />Mikael, What type of airbrush are you using?
Ehhh, one where air comes in at one end, and goes out the other?  Seriously, I don't really have much knowledge of different types of airbrushes, so I don't know. But look a little further up. The picture with a lot of small blue seats on, it also shows my airbrush to the right. In the background of the same picture is the previously mentioned Tamiya spraygun, which I tried first with little success.
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael
Ehhh, one where air comes in at one end, and goes out the other?  .... But look a little further up. The picture with a lot of small blue seats on, it also shows my airbrush to the right. In the background of the same picture is the previously mentioned Tamiya spraygun, which I tried first with little success. Great spraying - (altough you got splashes on the cabinet standing to the right    ) |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,689 Location: United Kingdom
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Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by Caplin<br />(altough you got splashes on the cabinet standing to the right    ) Ah yes, that was a little accident. Don't blow compressed air into a cup of used paint thinner. If you think that cabinet is bad, then you should have seen me [xx(] Luckily not a single drop hit either the model or my camera. I progressed some more today, but I forgot the camera so no new pictures until tomorrow.
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by Mikael<br /> Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by DamonKelly <br />Mikael, What type of airbrush are you using?
Ehhh, one where air comes in at one end, and goes out the other?  Mikael, I think Damon was really asking what is the make and Model of the Air Brush, [:p] Nev |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by nevw <br />I think Damon was really asking what is the make and Model of the Air Brush, [:p] Oh  It is an "AB 200" from Conrad, order number 236225.
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by Mikael<br /> Quote:Originally posted by nevwOh  It is an "AB 200" from Conrad, order number 236225. Hi Mikael, Thank you for the info. As you are satisfied with the AB 200 airbrush, I will go for that one myself. The nearest official CONRAD (net)store is located in Malmoe, Sweden. That shop, however, does not recognize the "AB 200" number. If you order from outside Sweden, you are referred to the german store anyway. Please tell me, where did you buy yours, what extra accessories are required/desired (I see a nice table holder), is your compressor also a CONRAD part. Hope that you will continue to share your progress with "Lynetten". I suppose to-day (holiday in DK) the weather is too good to stay in-doors - spray painting. |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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HOLD YOUR HORSES. My airbrush isn't the AB-200 after all. I just doublechecked, and instead it is a HP-200. Conrad order number 243779. Sorry for the mixup. The cup on mine looks exactly like the AB model though, which is what confused me. I got mine from Conrad Germany several years ago. Usually we are a bunch of colleagues that put our orders together every now and then. The table holder is also from Conrad. Other stuff includes a hose, various fittings, a pressure regulator with water separator and a compressor. Those aren't Conrad, as I had the compressor already. It is just a standard 8 bar, 1.5 hp with a 24 L tank. Extremely noisy (and cheap), but I just need to fill the tank once to be able to work several hours. Of course I will continue this story. You'll follow it to the end. Today I had to paint the gray once more, so I can't remove the masking tape just yet. Instead I have made the electrical pickup. This also is a do-it-yourself job. First I solder in two metal strips that will connect to the wheels:  Another angle:  And then a Roco flüsterschleifer is added. Fortunately, this just screws right in. An original Märklin schleifer did come with the kit, but the Roco fits just as well, and gives slightly better clearance.  Later today the paint should be dry, and the result will be revealed. I almost can't wait myself. Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:57:52(UTC)
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Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,423 Location: Brisbane, QLD
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Yes, a "Conrad" airbrush indeed... Unfortunately Conrad don't have any stores here in Oz. I'll wager that the "Conrad" brand is in fact another brand re-badged by Conrad (the same way that Märklin re-badged their soldering iron from a Chinese OEM supplier...) I would really like a photo of your air-brush, to see if I can identify a local equivalent! Thanks!    |
Cheers, Damon |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by DamonKelly <br />I'll wager that the "Conrad" brand is in fact another brand re-badged by Conrad And so it is. It actually says Sogolee on the side of it, and googling around a bit reveals that it must be model 4200A on this page: http://www.sogolee.com/pg5.htm
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by DamonKellyI would really like a photo of your air-brush, to see if I can identify a local equivalent! Thanks!    goto www.conrad.deSearch for HP 200 (schnellsuche field), when found you can enlarge the pic. |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,689 Location: United Kingdom
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Good work.  |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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ARRRGH. Disaster! The train is all nice and dry now, so it it time to pull off the masking tape and see it in all its glory. But NOOOO..... The orange colour prefer the tape rather than the train in some places. Well, just have a look for yourself. A picture says more than a thousand words:   I just have to sleep on this one. I'm not sure if I dare try the tape again. I am thinking hard for any alternatives, but haven't found any yet. Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:58:20(UTC)
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 1 user liked this useful post by Mikael
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Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,218 Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
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Should of sanded between coats to give orange paint something to stick to. Was the orange paint the same brand and type of paint as the white? I have had reactions between different brands. Slow down and let the coats of paint cure. The white paint was still gassing off thinners when the orange was sprayed on top. So you basically painted over paint thinner. Thats what make new paint smell like new paint. |
DT Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's. |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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The orange is of same type as the other colours, Humbrol. The primer should be fully sandable and re-paintable after two hours, but I gave it 24, and in case of the orange it even had 48 hours before I applied that one. The only mistake I can find is that I didn't sand after priming, but the roof off-white paint sticks fine to the same primer.
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,589 Location: Spain
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Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal
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I would suspect more of finger prints. The oily residue our hands leave on whatever we touch are extremely prone to cause these things.
Further make sure you always use the less sticky tape the possible.
So, my suggestion is that you remove all paint now and start over... Be sure to either wear CLEAN surgical gloves between coats or simply avoid touching the surface. If you're not able to do either of the above, scrub the primer surface with ethyl alcohol to remove the fingerprints a couple of hour before you paint the second coat.
Ah, the tape. The best I've tried and stayed with is Tamiya's. But even that will bring paint with it if the primer is oiled up...
Luis
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by laalves <br />I would suspect more of finger prints. The oily residue our hands leave on whatever we touch are extremely prone to cause these things.
Although I fully agree with this statement, I do not believe this is the case here. The patterns of the peel off areas are rectangular (except may be one on the second picture). I am sorry for your bad luck Mikael, I am sure that you will get there! [^] |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Thank you for all the good advice. Unfortunately, I have already followed them. I never touched the train at all. I've only handled it by the wires I've attached inside of it. In addition I did use gloves, but that was more to protect myself from any runaway spray. And finally, the tape I am using is already Tamiyas. Yesterday evening I feared that I had to start over from the beginning, but this morning I just tried a repair, just to see how bad it would look. But I must have done something right  I lightly sanded down the damaged areas and gave it another go with the airbrush. Now I can't see where I've made the repairs, so I am back on track without starting over  Here is the current status:   Edited by user 28 June 2015 15:59:30(UTC)
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