Wonderful!

Well done Oscar, you rescued the old lady!

Well done Oscar!
I love those oldies and keeping them on the rails. It is an important piece of Märklin history and ours too.
Cheers

Oscar wrote:

By contrast, when one of my digital locos started to cause short-outs recently I could not locate the source of the problem. Heck, despite following the instructions in the booklet to the letter I could not even open the model up! I had to bring it back to the shop under warranty and now will have to wait 6 weeks or so before I get it back Mad. Don't get me wrong: Märklin is producing great stuff these days, but if something breaks down then in most cases there's not much that you can do to fix it.

Same applies to cars of today !

congratulation of bringing 1,000.001 back to life.

off the subject:
If it is a 3000/1000.8 with roadnumber 90068, it could be worth a bit of money today. (misprint)

This is a Production tablet from the Märklin loco Cat, No. 3000

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3000/1000.1: Tenderloco, "C" (DB BR 89) black, plastic
Inscription: "CM 800" , 2 Headlights, Road Number: 89005, Hand lever, Rubbertyres, 11cm, Production year: 4 Years, 1953-1956

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1000.2: dito, but Road Number: 89028, Production Year: 2 Years, 1957-1958

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1000.3: as 1000.1 but 3 Headlights, Inscription: "3000" Road Number: 89028, Hand lever,
Production Year: 3 Years, 1959-1961

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1000.4: as 1000.1 although Hosuing transparent / special edition

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1000.5: as 1000.1, although 3 Headlights, Inscription: "3000", Road Number: 89005,
Hand lever, Production year: 1962

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1000.6: as 1000.1 with 3 Headlights, Inscription: "3000", Road Number 89005, No hand lever, Production Year: 5 Years, 1963-1967

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1000.7: as 1000.1 but 3 Headlights, Inscription: "CM 800", ("3000" deleted), Road Number: 89006 and DB signet on both sides on raised plate printed, No Hand lever, Production Year: 6 Years, 1968-1973

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1000.8: as 1000.7 but Road Number: 90068 (misprint), Production Year: around 1970

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1000.9: as 1000.1 but 3 Headlights, Inscription: "CM 800", ("3000" deleted),
Road Number: 89006 and DB signet on both sides on flat surface printed, No Hand lever, Production Year: from 1974 onwards.

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1000.20: in digital Set 2602, Production Year: 5 years, 1987-1991.

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regards.,
John

Mine is the fifth subversion, i.e. 1962. By the way, as beautifully as it may run now, for some reason it tends to become quite hot when I run it for a while (even with light loads). Looks like another Sunday afternoon will be needed to sort that out!

Great stuff, just saying on the new analog thread that I have 6 of these 3000s and want to get them all up and running.
I think of them as the old VW beetle of the Marklin world. Mass production, easy to repair (hoping, since I don't know yet!) and popular... I read in a old catalogue that there were 5 million of the 3000 model made and that was years ago. Wondering what the total is now.

Cheers!
- Mark

Hi all,

My first Märklin Loco, was of course a CM800 way back in 1959.

She still runs today on my 1960's Münstertal layout.

I have 3 of those lovely little 3000 Loco's.

Ian.

Good job Oscar, another classic on the rails again !

Neil.

Got my 3000 working....it fell over dead today and I fixed it with a stone knife and a broomstick.

I just had a problem with an old 3000 that I just got from Trainz. I was setting up for G-kids and 3000 fell off track at a bad spot. Tipped over. Now 3000 didn't run. Lights OK, solenoid worked. Fiddled with manual lever arm on reverser because engine would sit and vibrate...solenoid trying to engage. Looked at reverser leads off driver windings and wires were pretty fried right at junction. Solder job? I'm no solderer. Avoid avoid. Me think hard, save soldering job for others. Looked at wiring diagram and probed for continuity. Thought about the 3000 circuit diagram I had. The two coils share a common solder joint...the "main solder joint". Power was distributed from there. Looked at Main motor solder joints and resistors. I was getting 400 ohms on various places when I should have gotten zero or sometimes many more. Other loc's showed many more in same spots. On powered track.. Milli-amp meter said some power was getting to the main windings. I could see solenoid got plenty and from the shared "main solder joint"...but only when I gave the track the 24volt goose. Light was really bright and solenoid arm activated fine...must be getting taking too much juice and trying to activate itself. 3000 sat on track, light on and just buzzed softly when I let up on Tranny. I could make buzz stop with my finger. I could even "help" the gears turn with my fingernail but lok would not move. OK...seemed some power was on the rotor...but not much. Bad field coils on main core? Looked hard. Nope...just those stupid fried leads. Were they leaky?...well, they both had a little voltage...9 volts but no real current..moving reverser didn't change anything and reverser ground still provided good continuity. I couldn't test leads directly without scraping off gooey insulation but I kept getting something through the leads...that would be resistance and a few milliamps right on the solder joints and on the activator ground piece that the main solenoid arm moved that cam thing that sits on a vertical spring. Cam itself provided alternate ground to field windings and there was no resistance to ground. It wasn't a grounding issue. Hmm...Was it a current distribution issue? Main rotor windings and core windings not taking their share and solenoid had to take up the difference. A current division thing. Not sure the details but seemed likely. Then I saw those little brass springy things by the resistor just off the main solder junction....OMG....those must be the rotor brushes...hmm...bad contact...bad brushes? (like I'm an electrical person?...never had a circuits class in my life...just a few Ohms and Ahs from monkying with my Marklin as a kid (seriously) and then suffering through it in Physics and math). Nothing made sense until I remembered the 3000 stopped when it fell on right side. That was the Brush side...AHA...the Brushes were loose! One lost partial contact with rotor!...That was were the resistance was actually developing. Couldn't test brushes though...I looked and saw the springy things...wasn't in its little brush groove...the spring wire itself was too long. It simply hit the side of the brush housing and the brush rattled loose when the train fell over. Now that's an issue for a rehab person putting in brushes....hint hint! How much current distribution do you get? So, the way the reverser works is that the spring and spring lever arm must be balanced with respect to the forces developed by the main motor at 24 volt stall. So, if the brushes get less contact, the main rotor gets weak and the solenoid winding potential takes on extra potential at all times and buzzing happens if lok stalls and you get max current flow. The electromagnet would try to activate very gently at 60 hz! Yes...I see it all now..the solenoid arm spring lever-arm can be bent to compensate for changes in power distribution so that the reverser works in balance. Like a teeter toter...one side goes up the other goes down and the main solder junction is the pivot. Or so I think. So, for me..the reverser in the 3000 evidently had enough potential to buzz but not activate. That meant the Main coils were "too light" and the reverser side bumped on the ground. Well, once I saw the spring actually hit the side of the little brush holder and wouldn't do its job that is...making the brush touch the rotor hard enough to get contact and take its share of energy (weight), I took tweezers and nail cutter dikes to the end of the wire and "gave it to the cat". I Cut off 1/128 th in. Moved the copper mesh springy one a bit and it was OK. Put frame back on track and PRESTO CHANGO! It worked. Yay...and for all those out there...analog is fun too.

Whoa ... that was quite a saga, but glad you wrote it, because made me think through all the steps.

Moral of the story seems to be, always check the brushes first.

Cheers on getting another 3000 on the rails!
- Mark

Hi Manuel,

Welcome to the forum.

The CM800 uses two bulbs Märklin 600000. They are still available. If you don't have a dealer near you, these can be obtained from Ebay or other mail-order dealers.

Regards

Markus

You were lucky to be able to repair that wire, sometimes they break where there is just nothing to grab. Well done.

The CM800/3000 is not known for Zinkpest, from your description it sounds like maybe the screw thread has been stripped out?, you could do a very easy rough repair by simply filling the hole with hot-glue, then thread the screw in while the glue is cooling and setting, then remove the screw and refit the body, don't over-tighten. I'm sure others here have their own methods to suggest.

Re the traction tyres, they are most likely the original plastic ones, and they do go very hard. I have found easiest way to remove those is with a pair of fine side-cutters, and simply cut the tyre off. ie using the points of the cutters to 'pinch' the tyre, just try not to scratch the wheel. If you are lucky, you can cause the tyre to buckle out of the groove and then you can use a very small screwdriver, tweezers etc to get it off the wheel. Fitting a new rubber tyre is very easy.

Best.

That sounds like it may have been dropped, possibly while the body was removed, and landed on that 'tower' which has then bent under the impact.

I wouldn't try and straighten it, it is too likely to break off. The best you could do would be to drill it and fit a thread insert. But that would be a risky operation if you don't have suitable devices to hold everything square and steady.

I cut the old traction tires off with an Exacto knife and replaced them - no more wheelspin. Thanks for comments and suggestions.

Mike

Thanks, Jacques. I'm afraid I can't even get the screw to catch with the body because the threads are at an angle from the vertical. The body stays on quite well without the screw but I suspect there is enough misalignment to put pressure on the reversing lever, resulting in the locomotive not reversing with the body on. I think my options are to try and bend the lever, which might do more harm than good, or to relieve the body around the lever with a nail file.

Mike