Originally Posted by: Brakepad 
Hi all,
I've just purchased a small layout for cheap. The layout has been so cheap because it's pretty old and has been stored for a very long time (I believe more than 20 years).
The track on this layout is M-track and there are 8 electrified turnouts with their corresponding turning lanterns. The lanterns get lit, and the visual effect is very nice.
The tracks were terribly rusty, to the point that no locomotive would move on them (even the BR44 with two pickup shoes and so many wheels did not move). I have cleaned the rails and the pukos with a special pad which has wiped all the surface rust off (this item is just great!), and now the locos can go around without stopping at any point (the work has taken a couple hours).
The turnouts, however, do not work properly. Most of them get stuck and won't change, if I move them by hand, or turning the lantern, they will change but they will either remain stuck in the new position, ar change to the previous one and get stuck again. The electromagnets work, because I see the lanterns moving, or trying to move, at least.
It's a pity, because after cleaning, the layout is quite nice, and other than this, everything works. Any of you has found the same issue and know a solution?
Thanks and regards.
Ah, my kind of problem, I enjoy things like this.
A solution I found for a different problem might just work for you. Teflon Spray.
Have a read of my article here which also shows the product....
https://www.marklin-user...bmc/DisplayLayouts/0923/... I would avoid using WD-40, it may free them initially but you risk leaving a residue behind which will just start sticking again. You could try something like CRC contact cleaner or Electro-Clean which does not leave any residue behind, but I suspect you have some rust that you need to get rid of first.
If it was my layout, here's some options of what I might do;
RUST KILLER - This works really well - basically it's Phospheric Acid, it disolves the rust and often leaves the metal quite clean. You should be able to get some at perhaps a hardware or automotive supply store, or a Gun shop. The normal use is to brush the rust killer over or into the area you want to clean, leave it to work for only a few minutes then wash it away with clean water.
For a turnout, that will be the tricky part, how to run water over the cleaned area without causing other problems? Frankly, if the turnouts are as bad as I suspect then you probably won't make them any worse. But to do it properly you will need to remove the turnouts from the layout because then you have better control over how to get water just where it's needed (and to dry them after).
If you cannot remove the turnouts, then try just doing one only and see how it responds.
After you have applied the rust killer, be sure to operate the sticky part to work the rust killer in where it's needed, and then just leave it to dry.
Next, apply a dose of the Teflon compound, either as a spray, or I have also heard of it being available as a dry substance. I just read that the other day but can't now recall where - it was a comment about my layout so it was either here, or on the B&G. It might have been a 'crayon' type of substance in which case you won't be able to get it where to need it. A spray or powder would be best.
Anyway, I suspect that once you can get rid of as much rust as possible, and can apply some Teflon around the sticky parts you might have some success.
Almost certainly it will be the rivet that the turnout blade pivots on, and the surface under the blade where the most friction will be, and also the hardest area to clean but do also pay attention to the Lantern mechanism, that may be sticking as well.
Quite honestly, it can take longer to repair or restore things like this than it's probably worth - many people will say 'just replace the turnouts', but perhaps that's not an option, either for cost, or availability. But there is immense personal satisfaction in making something like this work (again as my own success with the factory 0923 layout will prove). It's also often quite relaxing.
PS: If you do not like the appearance of the metal after it has been rust-cleaned, you can get the 'black' metal appearance back with some "Gun Blue", but for Gun Blue to work (and look good), the metal has to be REALLY clean. You might not be worried about this so it's up to you. Get "Gun Blue" at your nearest Gun shop. Again, you can see what I did with rusty solenoid covers using this product.
Oh, and one of my most valuable tools is a small wire (brass) brush on my hand power tool. I actually use a "Rotomatic", it's similar to a Dremel tool (see image), the wire brush is very good for cleaning away surface rust in tricky areas.
Good luck, I hope this helps and I'd like to know how you get on.
Cheers
Steve
Melbourne
cookee_nz attached the following image(s):