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Offline Hobbit  
#1 Posted : 01 October 2006 16:07:11(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
In a moment of impulse buying at an exhibition I came home with the 3077 Zeppelin, thinking that conversion to digital would be simple. However, it has two motors: a normal AC motor for propulsion and a DC motor for the propeller. Both are powered in parallel (forward only) and then a rectifier feeds the DC motor. The analogue is interesting as the propeller speed increases as the voltage increase and the once it has some revs the locomotive starts moving. Quite neat actually - so I want to retain this feature in digital.

My first thought was to put in an old 6080 (c80) but I am concerned that the two motors will draw too much current and blow the decoder. A 609xx decoder with F1 /F2 will not help as the output of the functions are purely on or off, and not variable.

I then thought I could get the decoder for the 3477 (Delta) Zeppelin as a spare part - but it is no longer produced. Even if it was, the motor for the propeller is different and from the spare-part diagram looks like being AC (as no rectifier is used).

Has anyone converted a 3077 to digital to work the way it does in analogue? If so could you please let me know how you did it?

There is no place like The Shire...
Offline Gert-Jan  
#2 Posted : 01 October 2006 18:31:18(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hobbit
<br />Has anyone converted a 3077 to digital to work the way it does in analogue? If so could you please let me know how you did it?


Not exactly, but I did convert my Delta 3477 with a ESU Loksound decoder.

I had the idea of using one function output (like e.g. smokeunit) for the propellor....but this needed a too 'heavy' resistor and was on/off only.

So finally I made it parallel again, using the original DC propellor engine and DC HAMO magnet 5 pole converted engine.

All works very fine and with the same characteristics as the original analog version (porp. goes first, then movement...)
Mosty era III DB.
Offline xxup  
#3 Posted : 02 October 2006 00:30:22(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,594
Location: Australia
Oh that's interesting.. Which ESU Loksound decoder did you use? I could not find one for the 3077 and like Hobbit I could not work out how to sort out the propellor motor.. I am guessing that the original loco would have sounded like an aircraft engine and not like a diesel loco..
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
Offline Gert-Jan  
#4 Posted : 02 October 2006 12:17:13(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by xxup
<br />I am guessing that the original loco would have sounded like an aircraft engine and not like a diesel loco..


Indeed I also think the propeller must have made a typical ‘vintage airplane’ sound, but I am also guessing that the engine was a big Maybach diesel engine.

Since choices are limited, I took the ‘62433_LSV30_Diesel-Universal_BR218.esu’ soundfile and modified it a bit to suit my needs.

Not 100% prototypical perhaps, but nice anyway biggrin
Mosty era III DB.
Offline rugauger  
#5 Posted : 02 October 2006 15:52:57(UTC)
rugauger

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/12/2003(UTC)
Posts: 1,205
Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
There is another method that I've seen on the Stummi forum. It's a bit more involved (uses some electronics, e.g. a Zener diode). Let me know if you want the link.
Richard
Offline Hobbit  
#6 Posted : 02 October 2006 17:23:28(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
To Gert-Jan: Am I correct in understanding that you replaced the the propeller motor in your 3477 with that from a 3077?

Also, which magnet did you use? According to ESU website one needs to use 51962 (235690) but, in contradiction, according to the 2006 ESU Product Overview they say to use 51960 for motors with armature 200680 (which both the 3077 and 3477 use).

Did you keep the original armature or did you replace it with a 5 pole armature?


There is no place like The Shire...
Offline Gert-Jan  
#7 Posted : 02 October 2006 19:27:12(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hobbit
<br />To Gert-Jan: Am I correct in understanding that you replaced the the propeller motor in your 3477 with that from a 3077?


I am still using the original propeller motor (3477).
This actually is a DC engine as far as I can see...

Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:
Also, which magnet did you use? According to ESU website one needs to use 51962 (235690) but, in contradiction, according to the 2006 ESU Product Overview they say to use 51960 for motors with armature 200680 (which both the 3077 and 3477 use).

Did you keep the original armature or did you replace it with a 5 pole armature?


Mmm, let me think, some time has past since the conversion.
I converted the main engine armature to DC (HAMO) and a 5-pole rotor.

Checking the http://www.hfkern.gmxhome.de/ website:

3077 1975-1990 Relais SFCM
3477 1995-1996 Delta DCM

So mine must have had an DCM engine already, although I can remember that there was a SFCM engine in the 3477 too confused

I am 100% sure I bought me a 60923 MFX decoder set and used the decoder in my Delta BR52....[B)]
The rest (armature) must have gone in the 3477, together with a Loksound decoder.

But it works in both cases biggrin You can order rotor and magnets as spare parts from Märklin via my dealer.
So you do not need to buy a complete set (with decoder electronics)

Look at the shape difference of the magnets between the one in 60921 and 60923

UserPostedImage
Mosty era III DB.
Offline Hobbit  
#8 Posted : 03 October 2006 07:23:38(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
Thanks for the photo Gert-Jan.

This subject is still puzzling me: if the 3477 was indeed a DCM then the exploded spare parts sheet on the Marklin website is incorrect (unless it first came out with SFCM and later DCM).

I also agree that the propeller motor you have must be DC or it would not work if wired in parallel. I now wonder whether the schematic wiring diagram on the Marklin site is also wrong, as that drawing infers that it is an AC motor (if I read it right).
Could you please have a look at the spare parts diagram that came with the loco (if you still have it) and compare it to the one on the website, and see if it different. What is the part number for the rear motor on your sheet?
There is no place like The Shire...
Offline Gert-Jan  
#9 Posted : 03 October 2006 17:49:50(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hobbit
<br />This subject is still puzzling me:
Could you please have a look at the spare parts diagram that came with the loco (if you still have it) and compare it to the one on the website, and see if it different. What is the part number for the rear motor on your sheet?


It is a puzzle indeed, maybe we should move it to the Quiz section.
But the facts are:

* The 3477 comes with a SFCM 'all-current'AC motor with coil 'magnet'
* The 3477 comes with a Delta decoder.
* The website www.hfkern.gmxhome.de must be wrong about the DCM.
* The propeller is engine is DC, with a permanent magnet
* The schematic is tricky...

If the Delta decoder would feed AC the DC engine would be a vibrator. Wouldn't it?

Also it would 'run' or 'vibrate' only when driving in one direction?

PS: my 3477 box is stacked on the attic not easy to reach it or find it instantly wink
Mosty era III DB.
Offline jonquinn  
#10 Posted : 03 October 2006 18:36:25(UTC)
jonquinn


Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,591
Location: Pennsylvania
rail zeppelin engine was not a diesel. It was a BMW 12 cyl. aircraft engine - the closest thing but with more power was like what was used for the Messerschmidt Bf109 (DB engine). Since no one make a sound decoder with this noise, their are some CDs' available
http://www.oldplanes.com/sounds.htm
they have a CD for a BF109G with various sounds.
that maybe could be used with the loksound programmer to achieve the right sort of sound.
Offline Gert-Jan  
#11 Posted : 03 October 2006 21:12:07(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by jonquinn
<br />Messerschmidt Bf109 (DB engine). http://www.oldplanes.com/sounds.htm


Thanks for the link, my favourite vintage aircraft Smile
And I agree, my dieselsound is just a 'close as possible' out of the ESU box match.

Luckily the speaker isn't that high fidelity biggrin
Mosty era III DB.
Offline Vardex  
#12 Posted : 04 October 2006 13:02:52(UTC)
Vardex

Netherlands   
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 404
Location: vlaardingen,
The easiest way to digitalize a 3077 is with a delta or C80 decoder.

Connect the green and blue to the coil,remove the rectifier and simply connect the wires that come from the propmotor to the black and one of the coils (blue or green,depends).
DC current is produced by the deltamodule or C80,so no rectifier needed.
I don't think load regulation ond so on is needed for this model,so a delta or an old C80 is sufficient.
Don't worry about current used,both decoders can handle the required current.

If you want load regulation than my advice is to use 2 decoders. They don't have to be expensive,but must have the ability to change soeed steps.
Use one for the prop,starting at speedstep 1.
The one for the drivemotor should start at speedstep 5 or so. When slowly turning the knob on your regulator,the prop will turn first,and when giving more power the zepp starts to run.
Programming is a little difficult,you will have to disconnect one of the decoders when doing this,since they both require the same adress.

Bart
Offline Hobbit  
#13 Posted : 05 October 2006 08:02:39(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
Using an old C80 was my first thought, but the 3077 prop-motor draws 0.5A as soon as it starts working at low voltage and must go higher, but I cannot measure any higher (needle is off the dial at higher voltage). I am therfore reluctant to hook up both motors, which I guess could easily draw more than 1A together, and blow the decoder.

It looks like the prop-motor in the 3477 with the flywheel is a newer style motor and possibly draws less current. Perhaps it is better buy a new prop-motor intended for the 3477 and put it into the 3077 rather than risk blowing (yet another!) decoder, as this motor clearly works with decoders. It may even be quieter and smoother than the old one which is a bit rough an noisy.

Is the prop-motor in the 3477 smooth and quiet?
There is no place like The Shire...
Offline Gert-Jan  
#14 Posted : 05 October 2006 13:43:30(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hobbit
<br />Perhaps it is better buy a new prop-motor intended for the 3477 and put it into the 3077...It may even be quieter and smoother than the old one which is a bit rough an noisy.

Is the prop-motor in the 3477 smooth and quiet?


It is rather smooth and quiet to my opinion, makes far less sound than the drive engine when running biggrin

I am thinking of buying the red 4-blade propellor from the 3077 and paint it 'woody' style to get a more prototypical look!

UserPostedImage
http://home.hetnet.nl/~sakkerju/images/zeppelin_proto.jpg
Mosty era III DB.
Offline xxup  
#15 Posted : 05 October 2006 14:35:21(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,594
Location: Australia
Oh that is also interesting.. So there was two Zepplins? One with a two blade prop and one with a four blade prop...
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
Offline Bob R  
#16 Posted : 05 October 2006 18:40:32(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by xxup
<br />Oh that is also interesting.. So there was two Zepplins? One with a two blade prop and one with a four blade prop...


Hi Adrian, yes, there were 2 Zeppelins that I know of. The 3077 is the Older one of the two and it has a Orange 4 Blade Propeller (Air Screw for some of us). The newer version of the 2 the 3477 has a 2 Blade Propeller painted silver. There are a few on Ebay at the moment.

Bob
Offline Gert-Jan  
#17 Posted : 05 October 2006 22:11:06(UTC)
Gert-Jan


Joined: 29/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: Netherlands
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bob R
<br />
Quote:
Originally posted by xxup
<br />The newer version of the 2 the 3477 has a 2 Blade Propeller painted silver. There are a few on Ebay at the moment.


I think Adrian means 2 prototype zeppelins.
If you look at the link/picture above you see the upper-right zeppeling has a 2 blade 'air screw' and the others 4 blades.

I guess they modified the unique 'one'...build in 1930.
In 1932 they made some modifications, including something with the 'prop'...

Interesting fact is, that there was a slight angle upwards for the propellor.
This way the zeppelin was more or less pushed down on the track and most turbulence was blown higher up to avoid 'Marilyn Monroe' effects on the station platforms.



http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schienenzeppelin
Mosty era III DB.
Offline Bob R  
#18 Posted : 20 October 2006 19:47:58(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
Hobbit,

How is the conversion of the 3077 going? I hope it is going well. I just recently came across the 3077 at a good price (in good shape, original box but no papers what so ever). It runs well but one blade of the Prop is broken. So I am interested on how your conversion is proceeding since it looks like I will be doing the same thing.

Bob R
Offline Bob R  
#19 Posted : 20 October 2006 20:02:36(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
Also has anyone come across the Luftschraube (4 blade prop) Marklin 235250 anywhere?

Bob
Offline Guus  
#20 Posted : 20 October 2006 21:25:07(UTC)
Guus

Netherlands   
Joined: 13/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,616

Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:....their are some CDs' available...

Thanks for the great link Jon.

That two blade prop might have produced an awful lot of noise [:0]
Guess the four blade one was an improvement in noise reduction.
The angled position of the prop would have produced a natural downforce on the track and as a result some added longitudinal stability.

Guus

Kind regards,
Guus
Offline Bob R  
#21 Posted : 22 October 2006 09:07:00(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
I came across this 3077 at a most excellent price. I knew it was a 50-50 chance on that what I might get might not run at all. But for almost $61 US, how could I not take the chance? Well when I received it, it did not run. Had never ever been maintained at all. To call it dirty and nasty would of been way too kind. But beyond all of that, it had to have run at one time. I took it apart. Piece by piece and cleaned it, scrubbed it and cleaned it again. The wheels were caked with grit and grime from years past. The motor had never been lubed. After all was said and done, she ran like new. A few bruises from a few collisions in a previous life. But this Zeppelin is now mine and mine alone. I plan on giving her a new lease on life and upgrade her as others have done in the past. But she runs just fine the way she is now. You can see the difference on the insides from the post above of the 3477. I have one of those as well, still new in the box, never been out. And never has been on any track that I know of.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

The 4 Bladed prop had a broke blade on it. My Volmer plastic glue did not work. My Faller plastic glue did not work. But Super Glue from NAPA Auto Parts worked great!

Bob R
Offline steventrain  
#22 Posted : 22 October 2006 10:46:01(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,692
Location: United Kingdom
Very nice 3077,$61 is a very cheaper buy.

Thanks for sharing pictures Bob.Smile
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline Hobbit  
#23 Posted : 23 October 2006 07:36:15(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
To Bob R and others,

At this point I am waiting for parts for the conversion. The plan is as follows: I have ordered a new prop motor, motor bracket and bolt intended for the 3477 to replace the old one in the 3077. The new one has a fly wheel so I am guessing (hoping) that it will run quieter and draw less power. Once I have it I can determine how much current it draws and determine whether an old C80 decoder can take the load of the two motors. If it does and if the Zep runs smoothly I might leave it at that. However, just to be on the safe side I also ordered a LokPilot3 and ESU/Hamo magnet as that configuration might draw even less current than the AC motor, but I doubt that it will run much smoother using the old 3 pole armature. I therefore also ordered a 5 pole Marklin armature, magnet and motor shield to go the full hog. It will be interesting to see how much improvement each stage will make. Whenever I stop I can always use the bits for other conversion so nothing will be wasted.

I also decided to order the interior for the 3477 and I will put paper behind the rear half windows to make it look more like the prototype. I am also thinking of putting in a small red LED at the rear. I might even consider adding interior lighting on the spare function.

I now have to wait patiently for the bits to arrive which probably will take 4 weeks as they have to wait for a couple of new items not yet released from the factory. If it works well with the LP3 I will be very tempted to later upgrade to a LokSound, as discussed earlier, as that should make this model truly special. I’ll keep you posted.

There is no place like The Shire...
Offline bmcrae  
#24 Posted : 23 October 2006 21:13:48(UTC)
bmcrae

Canada   
Joined: 17/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 970
Location: Okanagan Valley, BC
Nice work Bob! I am just about to go through the same process with roughly 30 Marklin loks. The 3077 is one of them. They belong to my father and he wants to sell them on ebay. I warned him before hand that he had better run the loks and oil and clean as necessary beofre he listed them. Next thing I know.............. they are on my doorstep!

After I left home to join the military, he put them in storage and there they have sat for nearly 20 years. My son is in love with the 3077 (also the 3015 [:p][:p]). My dad didn't think about cleaning the loks before going into storage so there are a few that need a good cleaning and scrubbing.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#25 Posted : 01 November 2006 10:16:24(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,772
Location: New Zealand
For those of you that are interested, there is an auction for a nice looking 3077 on the New Zealand auction site Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz...ves/auction-76016707.htm

The reserve has already been met at $NZ100 ($US65), and the auction closes on Thursday 9 November.

Cheers
Offline Bob R  
#26 Posted : 02 December 2006 07:28:50(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
Anyone have any updates on their progress on the 3077?

Offline Hobbit  
#27 Posted : 15 December 2006 18:45:38(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
The spare parts finally arrived. The first thing I wanted to test was how much less current the new prop motor (intended for the 3477) drew. I got quite a surprise when I discovered that the motor is AC, unlike the one in the 3077 which is DC.

UserPostedImage
[Mounting bracket and AC motor for 3477 on left and centre, DC motor for 3077 on right]

This was not expected as I had hoped to convert the loco motor to DC and then run both via the LokPilot decoder. As the new prop motor is AC there is not much point converting the main motor to DC as it will not be possible to run the AC prop motor at the same time that way.

However the new prop motor is significantly quieter than the original DC so I decided that I would use the new prop motor with the old main motor rather than converting the main motor and leaving the original noisy prop motor.

UserPostedImage
[clip/lug and wire soldered to it must be removed in order to fit motor onto bracket]

As I wanted to retain the realistic propeller rev increases before the loco moves, the need to switch the prop motor through a function and a relay to send AC to it from the pick-up show was avoided. This then restricted me to use a 6080 decoder which essentially identical to the way the Delta 3477 is configured.

I was going to try this first and to see if I was happy with leaving the old 3 pole main motor before trying other alternatives. As it turned out both the running characteristics and the noise levels were in my opinion fairly acceptable. Sure a 60903 or LokPilot+Hamo magnet would have given smoother and quieter running but the constant speed characteristic is not an issue and not really required as the loco does not pull any wagon load.

To my delight the 6080 handles the load of the two motors, and I never went back to see whether the original 3077 prop motor and main motor were too much for the 6080.

I had also ordered the interior from the 3477 which I thought would look nice with added interior lighting but I later realised that the main engine occupies the front quarter and the seating only extend to the centre doors. Even if it were to go to the back door one would have trouble concealing the decoder. There are also two unsightly posts for the screws that hold the body to the chassis. I put it in anyway since I had ordered it. For it to fit one needs to remove the rectifier or as I did leave it and cut a slot for it to stick through. I also brought the wiring through this opening to the decoder.

UserPostedImage
[Interior fitted - showing slot cut to fit rectifier]

I have not yet added the interior lighting, and I am thinking that I may be better off not putting it in as it would only draw attention to the shortcomings mentioned. I was also thinking of putting white paper behind the rear windows like the 3477 but I decided against it for now at least. The decoder is not that obvious unless one goes looking for it.

UserPostedImage
[The digital 3077 on its maiden run]

Overall for the cost of less than 30 euro (excluding the 6080 which I already had) the conversion was a success. I just need to paint that ridiculous orange propeller to realistic colours one day.

There is no place like The Shire...
Offline intruder  
#28 Posted : 15 December 2006 19:07:33(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Very nice work, Gert-Jan and Hobbit!
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline steventrain  
#29 Posted : 15 December 2006 19:09:08(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,692
Location: United Kingdom
Excellent,thanks for sharing.
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline epc  
#30 Posted : 26 December 2006 20:55:48(UTC)
epc


Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: HAedo, Buenos Aires
Dear Hobbit:

First, Merry Xmas and Happy New Year.Smile

Second, I have a 3077 and I want to digitalize it (as you saw in other topic). Where do you buy (or order) the pieces? I live in Argentina, I think there will be no problems with this. Also, I don't have any decoder, can you recommend one?.

Thank you.
EPC
Offline Hobbit  
#31 Posted : 27 December 2006 14:58:29(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
Hello epc,

I hope you had a good Chrismat too, and welcome to the forum.

I ordered the parts from LokShop in Germay over the internet. They have a good website (once you know what you need) and I have not had any problem with their service. To find out what is needed I looked at the loco parts diagrams at Marklin' main website which gives you the part numbers. It will also help you with the wiring in this instance as it is different from typical wiring.(Actually you need to look at the diagram for the 3477)

Here are the part numbers I used:
556360 Motor (for the propeller)
555750 Bracket to support motor
555760 Interior

For the decoder I used an old 6080. They do not sell them any longer but you could use a Delta decoder instead. However, I am not sure if all Delta decoders can can cope with the higher current draw that two motors generate. In fact this was my inital concern.

There are other options, as this thread discussed, but it depends to some extent on which prop motor you end up with. You may even be able to add decoder without major "changes" to the 3077 by adding a decoder from a 36xx loco directly but nobody I know has reported that it does work.

To get old 6080s I mainly get such by buying upgrad kits for older digital locos to high efficienct decoders which frees up lesses decoders which I later put in analog locos that I do not want to spend too much on to make them digital.

Good luck and have fun with the conversion.

There is no place like The Shire...
Offline epc  
#32 Posted : 28 December 2006 15:45:42(UTC)
epc


Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: HAedo, Buenos Aires
Hi, Hobbit.

One last question. Did you put both motors in parallel?. Do you think that common decodres (like Uhlenbrok 75200 or Viessmann 5247) can work?. Thank you.
EPC
Offline Hobbit  
#33 Posted : 28 December 2006 17:11:52(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
Yes, I wired the prop motor in parallel with the forward feed to the main motor. Go this this link http://www.maerklin.de/s...uktservice/miexploh0.php and download the info on the 3477 which shows you the wiring.

I have no experience with the decoders you mention so I cannot comment, but as long as they work with AC motors and have a decent current rating you should be OK. Perhaps if you post a new thread asking the difference between Marklin 6080 and those that you are thinking about you may get an informed answer on that topic.

One key decision you need to make is whether you want to end up with two DC motors or two AC motors (as I did) as that decision may rule out using certain decoders.

Note also that others who have contributed to this topic earlier have suggested other decoders which have worked for them.

There is no place like The Shire...
Offline Hobbit  
#34 Posted : 02 January 2007 11:53:45(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
As mentioned earlier - the orange propeller had to go. Here is what I ended up with:

UserPostedImage

Perhaps more glossy tan colour blades with smaller black blade tips would have been better, but I either way I think it is a huge improvement from the orange.


There is no place like The Shire...
Offline Bob R  
#35 Posted : 19 November 2007 19:34:45(UTC)
Bob R


Joined: 18/09/2005(UTC)
Posts: 502
Location: , Texas
Hobbit,

I was curious how easily the Prop Motor Bracket fit in the Chasis of the 3077? Did it bolt in or did you have to modify anything? I am thinking about just replacing the Main Motor and the Prop Motor on my 3077 with the correct Motors from the 3477?

Bob R
Offline Hobbit  
#36 Posted : 20 November 2007 03:44:56(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
Bob,

I was a while ago now, but as far as I can remenber that part was quite straight forward. I did not have to modify anything around the prop motor. It took a while to figure out which way the motor bracket had to be positioned to fit the motor in, but it is obvious when it fits. See photo above. You must pull/slide away one of the leads to the motor before fitting the bracket, and then slide it back under the spring loaded contact point when the motor is in the bracket.

The only thing I had to modify was to cut off a soldering lug in the centre, but that was to make room for the interior fitting. I also cut a slot in the interior fitting as I decided not to remove the now redundant rectifier.
There is no place like The Shire...
Offline grnwtrs  
#37 Posted : 07 December 2008 23:50:27(UTC)
grnwtrs

United States   
Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 669
Location: El Sobrante, California
Talking about impulses. I got bitten from this site a couple of years ago, and the result, among many, is I am now a proud owner of a 3077 Schienenzeppelin (ver 1) with the orange prop. And now for the "What was I thinking" moment.

Seems line I don't know how to take off the body of give it a couple of sips of oil, Thanks to you guys, I realize there are a couple of motors that need a sip. As seems customary on Ebay, the manuals for oiling and spare parts are often not included/lost.

I got a copy of Marklin spare parts list, and studied the fine pictures here, even saw a picture of the oiling instructions on Ebay, but for the life of me can't figure out how to remove the "prop".

The "prop" seems to just slide on a shaft on the rear of the engine. If that is the case can one "tug" gently on the orange prop to remove it? Direction for a newbie would be appreciated. The shaft the "prop" fits on seems smooth and no indexing is required. Or, did I step into it!!

Also a description of the lubrication points for the rear of the engine would be more that appreciated. I am assuming the amount of labelle 108 is just a drop or 2 at most.

Thanks to all, especially Hobbit, Gert-Jan and Bob for all the pictures and information.


Smile
Offline Hobbit  
#38 Posted : 09 December 2008 04:31:43(UTC)
Hobbit


Joined: 07/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 232
Location: Australia
Yes, the prop comes off by just pulling it off the shaft towards the rear. Make sure you pull it evenly without twisting it or you may crack the housing of the prop that the shaft sits in, held by friction only.

Oiling the motor is the same as for any Marklin motor. (I am assuming that you have the instruction sheet for at leas one loco). The main thing to remember is to not over oil. All you need is just the the tiniest drop. I find using the Marklin oil in a (non-marklin) bottle with a dispensing pipe, bit like a syringe needle, works best as you get tiny droplets and you can apply them precisly where you want them eg: hard to reach axle bearings.
There is no place like The Shire...
Offline sudibarba  
#39 Posted : 09 December 2008 23:43:13(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hobbit
<br />Yes, the prop comes off by just pulling it off the shaft towards the rear. Make sure you pull it evenly without twisting it or you may crack the housing of the prop that the shaft sits in, held by friction only.

Oiling the motor is the same as for any Marklin motor. (I am assuming that you have the instruction sheet for at leas one loco). The main thing to remember is to not over oil. All you need is just the the tiniest drop. I find using the Marklin oil in a (non-marklin) bottle with a dispensing pipe, bit like a syringe needle, works best as you get tiny droplets and you can apply them precisly where you want them eg: hard to reach axle bearings.



Be carefull with the prop as spare parts are no longer available from marklin.
I'm looking for a prop if anyone knows where one is I would appreciate the info.
Thanks,
Eric
Offline grnwtrs  
#40 Posted : 10 December 2008 20:50:04(UTC)
grnwtrs

United States   
Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 669
Location: El Sobrante, California
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hobbit
<br />Yes, the prop comes off by just pulling it off the shaft towards the rear. Make sure you pull it evenly without twisting it or you may crack the housing of the prop that the shaft sits in, held by friction only.

Oiling the motor is the same as for any Marklin motor. (I am assuming that you have the instruction sheet for at leas one loco). The main thing to remember is to not over oil. All you need is just the the tiniest drop. I find using the Marklin oil in a (non-marklin) bottle with a dispensing pipe, bit like a syringe needle, works best as you get tiny droplets and you can apply them precisly where you want them eg: hard to reach axle bearings.

Thanks for the guidance. The "prop" came off as you said. Just a little harder than I anticipated. When I pulled on it ,there was a "pop" sound. Sort of scared me as I thought I had broke something.

The body then came off smoothly and I was able to lubricate with Labelle 108(oil). The gear mechanism and motor? in the rear is something very new to me. There appeared to be 3 different places to put a drop, and I did. Everything quieted down!

The lok runs smooth. A little lugging in forward(pickup shoe problem?), but in reverse just super!! I will try it with the "prop" on and see if that makes a difference. As a side note, there appears to be another set of "brushes" in the rear (motor?) bearing a part number of 601460. Can anyone confirm.
Smile

In retrospect, I am wondering if a slightly heavier oil (Labelle 102) would have been better for the "rear parts" or even a grease by Trix or Labelle (106) grease. I'm not pitching Labelle, but it is easier for me to get locally than other products.

Again thanks to all



Smile
Offline grnwtrs  
#41 Posted : 10 December 2008 22:51:02(UTC)
grnwtrs

United States   
Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 669
Location: El Sobrante, California
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by sudibarba

Be carefull with the prop as spare parts are no longer available from marklin.
I'm looking for a prop if anyone knows where one is I would appreciate the info.
Thanks,
Eric


Have you scoured the net? If so, I would try some of the dealers in Europe. I was afraid of breaking the prop when I poped it off for oiling!!

Good tip Eric

Offline Ross  
#42 Posted : 05 September 2009 10:15:43(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 945
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi All,

I just saw this topic now and have converted the 3477 Rail Zeppelin with a 60903 decoder and installed internal lights as well. For a detailed description see "60903 Conversion Rail Zeppelin" under my tips section.
Ross
Offline xxup  
#43 Posted : 05 September 2009 17:27:37(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,594
Location: Australia
Looks good Ross, but you don't seem to be able to by the 60903 set any more..
Adrian
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Offline Ross  
#44 Posted : 06 September 2009 01:08:43(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 945
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Adrian,
The 60903 decoder wasn't good enough to lower the speed for good running using RR&Co. I would recommend a LokPilot V3.0 decoder instead.

Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by xxup
<br />Looks good Ross, but you don't seem to be able to by the 60903 set any more..
Ross
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