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Offline aos  
#1 Posted : 31 December 2010 16:42:05(UTC)
aos

United Kingdom   
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
I have stumbled over the following website: http://www.rshelectronic...gory.php?id_category=137 and was wondering if the mini-magnets (£0.19) and reed switches (£0.45) are compatible with Marklin.

The price is a fraction of that charged by Marklin for their 7555 reed switch, and magnets 7556 and 7557.

I would hasten to add that I have no connection with this firm other than I discovered their existence and it does seem to offer excellent value.

I would appreciate comments from the technical whizz-kids. Alan
Offline aos  
#2 Posted : 31 December 2010 19:55:16(UTC)
aos

United Kingdom   
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
No techies out there?
Offline rschaffr  
#3 Posted : 31 December 2010 20:06:18(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
I don't use reed switches, aos, however anything that will close a circuit should work with an S88.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline aos  
#4 Posted : 31 December 2010 20:21:29(UTC)
aos

United Kingdom   
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
Ron, Why do I need an S88, whatever that is when it is at home? I really am quite naive and ignorant of the digital side. My previous experience lies with using 5104, 5105 track control sections. Do I not just connect one wire to either side of the reed switch? Help, Alan
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#5 Posted : 31 December 2010 22:30:05(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,771
Location: New Zealand
Alan, those reed switches look like they will work ok, I'm using something similar on my layout. Just be careful when bending the leads (pigtails as they are known), as the glass case can break very easily. I found it best to bend only once. Rebending a lead inevitably broke the glass. I usually connect one end of the reed switch to the earth (brown) side of the track, and the other end to a S88 input (or to a signal or turnout in an analog system).

You may need to get stronger magnets than the one that comes with the reed, but you need to experiment with magnets. I found that I could use some magnets purchased in a pack of 10 from the local $2 shop that worked quite well. However, for some locos/cars with limited clearance underneath, the Marklin magnets worked the best, as they are quite thin.

An S88 is an electronic module used in Marklin digital model railroads that senses input from the likes of a reed switch, or a contact track, and passes that signal on to a Central Station, which takes some sort of action based on that input, such as switching a signal or a turnout, depending on how you program the Central Station.

If you are using a traditional Marklin analog system, then S88's are of no use.
Offline aos  
#6 Posted : 31 December 2010 22:33:54(UTC)
aos

United Kingdom   
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
David, Thanks for that. I shall try ordering some and report back on my success. alan
Offline Webmaster  
#7 Posted : 31 December 2010 23:03:13(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
There are very thin Alnico magnets available in electronics stores to do the magnet part of the job.... For the reed part, there are also a lot of more options in the same stores - and for a much more reasonable price than the M offer...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline supermoee  
#8 Posted : 07 January 2011 17:35:28(UTC)
supermoee

Switzerland   
Joined: 31/05/2007(UTC)
Posts: 534
Hello,

I tested long time with reed switches. I had some Märklin ones of my past layout and needed more of them and I looked on third party reed switches.

My tests showed one thing: no third party reed switches tested by me could reach the good performance of the Märklin reeds.

I have the Magnets on the last car of the train and use this even as a lost car detection mode. If some car are uncoupled, the reed will not switch and the train running behind is stopping at red light. No accident in this way.

So on the last car sometimes the distance is a little bit bigger from the magnet to the track. With the Märklin reeds absolutely no problem. Safe switch every time. With the third party reeds sometimes it switched, sometimes not, really depending on the speed of the train. To get nearly the performance of the Märklin reed, I have to use much bigger reed switches than the Märklin ones. This looks awful and needs a lot more of work to put them into the K track (cut of 3 crossties)

finally, I used the Märklin reeds on visible tracks (smaller, better protected behind the plastic shell, much easier to put in place). On hidden tracks I used the third party reeds (big, ugly with tie cutt out). The third party reeds which showed not reliable function were the one on curve. I replaced them with Märklin ones even on the hidden track.

To get better performance of the third party reeds, I had to invest in improved the magnets, which make things not really cheaper.

The Märklin magnets are crap for third party reeds. No reliable function. Ok on Märklin reeds. anyway the Märklin magnets are to expensive related to the performance.

I found good and cheap ones: magnets for magnetic boards. You can find them in a lot of different shapes to very cheap prices. Do not use too strong one, in case they will move your switch blades while passing on them and cause a derailment.

I lost a lot of time in finding the right third party reeds. All the test to build them into the correct position and running tests to get them reliable. I spent a lot of money in buying different versions of reeds and magnets.

When I look behind, it would have been worth to spend more money on Märklin reeds to have lesser trouble during installation and save a lot of my free time, having an absolute reliable function and better mechanical protection.

rgds


Stephan
Offline aos  
#9 Posted : 07 January 2011 18:53:40(UTC)
aos

United Kingdom   
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
Many thanks everybody, especially Stephan who has given a very concise arguement for using the Marklin solution. I suppose that in the end, it pays to use the tool specifically designed for the job. As for RSH Electronics, I emailed them to ask about compatability. They have not even had the courtesy to acknowledge my email. So, I shall not be giving them my business. Marklin may be expensive, but it looks like the right way forward. Alan
Offline dntower85  
#10 Posted : 07 January 2011 20:04:05(UTC)
dntower85

United States   
Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,218
Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
they might work, I like the specs

0.5A 140v 10VA

as there are a lot of reeds on the market that are only rated at around 5V so when they see 16+ volts from the s88 they tend to weld together. Chances are though to handle that much voltage and amps the reed may be thick and takes a lot magnetic force to close.
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's.
Offline river6109  
#11 Posted : 28 February 2016 05:49:24(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,875
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
anybody interested in a simpler and more efficient and reliable way, try my invention: it works and you don't need any reed contacts and especially magnets


https://www.marklin-user...ade-redundant#post509091


https://www.marklin-user...-coupler-for-2-or-3-rail

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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