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Offline Rowan  
#1 Posted : 20 November 2008 22:33:10(UTC)
Rowan


Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,278
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
G'day.
I was talking to some one the other day and the subject of wear came up.
Some of my oldest Märklin loks spent weekends/school holidays going round and round, and then round again ; over many years.They are still going with hardly any wear ; that I can see.
So I heard that some of the various manufactures are making loks, for example steam, where you have nylon and metal in contact ( the metal saws through the nylon),disimilar metals ( eg , rod into piston)where the soft one can't handle the movement of the harder metal.
Now these aren't junk models but nice and expensive models that folks have on the rails, and in a few months wear is a big problem.
I know that there were/ are really expensive brass models of steam loks made in Japan that will run; and very nicely, but you hardly run them at all beacause they are a static display model and not designed for constant running.
So has any one had any problems with highly detailed loks that are experiencing excessive wear and tear.
I have bought two Brawa E loks that have not had any problems that I can see. In another forum it was mentioned that one of the Brawa steam loks has big problems in this area.( i don't belive it, but reassure me folkswink )
Going back to the brass models, it was under stood by the buyer that you might demonstrate the model on the track now and then, but not hours of operation.
So I have not heard [till now] that there are any issues with any makers of fineley scaled and detailed models where some one with rocks in there head has metal/nylon in contact, parts so thin in a wearing situation that they won't last; etc.
So the question is; any one having any problems , or would like to comment with there own experience.

Smile
Offline tekin65  
#2 Posted : 20 November 2008 22:56:12(UTC)
tekin65

Turkey   
Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,151
Location: istanbul,
No experience with brass stuff so far, but what I know is that they are not made to run ... [xx(]

Believe it or not most won't work at all off the box without major work, so if yours does; be happy biggrin

Many things can be said on this but ...

Cem.
3 rail: C-track with CS2 2 rail: Trix C-track with Trix MS - K.Bay., DRG, DR, DB, SBB, TCDD

Now all eras but no ICE

My loco inventory for the interested
Offline mvd71  
#3 Posted : 21 November 2008 07:42:03(UTC)
mvd71

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,939
Location: Auckland,
No experience with the type of locos your talking about.

However, from an engineering point of view, if you use the right grade of nylon(a dupont trademark) the metal gear will wear out first.

If the plastic gear wears out first, it is most likely just that, cheap plastic.

Cheers.....

Mike.
Offline lokbraz  
#4 Posted : 21 November 2008 09:43:51(UTC)
lokbraz


Joined: 03/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: San Francisco, CA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by tekin65
<br />No experience with brass stuff so far, but what I know is that they are not made to run ... [xx(]

Believe it or not most won't work at all off the box without major work, so if yours does; be happy biggrin

Many things can be said on this but ...

Cem.


Au contraire, Sir,

I am as familiar as with american(vintage) and european brass model as well as Marklin models. Here is my view;

Most of brass locomotives built in the mid nineties to today are terrific runners.
A lot of japanese made brass locomotives of american and european prototypes built in the seventies to early early eighties have exquisite details, they are the most solid built and are the best ever runners. Since the range of prototype made brass models are much wider and their production run are very small ( as little as 30 units per release...) than high volume die cast/ plastic model the variances between a good runner and lousy runner are more evident. Some of brass importers were/are better in keeping a good quality across their releases (models) others were not good about it. We all know that even with Marklin have good models and lemons.

My first model was K.Bay.Sts S2/6 from Fulgurex. As far as accuracy and detail, I would say that is bellow the current Brawa model. As far as running quality, it was a lousy one: Not much of low speed and it sounded like swing machine. I replaced that model with a Trix Fine Art S 2/6 and I consider to be one of my best brass european model that I own.

My experience with Trix Fine Art has being a mix bag. Besides the K.Bay.Sts S 2/6 and 1841 1A1 "Bavaria", both great runners, I "owned" a K.P.E.V. T 16 "double cab" that had some gearbox problem. I send back to Marklin to repair under warranty to never see it again... [:0]confused[:(!][:(].
This says a lot why Marklin ditched the Fine Art line...

These are my opinion of some other european brass model makers:

Lemacos: They are very solid and very good runners made in Korea by Samhongsa
Metropolitan: Very likely the best runners, but this company folded sometime in the 90's.
Micro Metakit: Very likely the Rolls-Royce of brass models. They models are packed so much detail, it's mind boggling! For instance, I own a BR 05.03 "cab forward". This model has functional wheel shutters and tender hatches. And more amazing, a fully detailed boiler under the aerodynamic shroud.

As far as if brass models can run for long time as mass produced die cast/ plastic models, I would say that many of these models will likely do it. But would you really want to do it since they usually cost 3 to 5 times as much? I myself run them all my brass models perhaps between 10-20hs each model per year. For the purpose of leaving a locomotive running on layout hours end, I rather run my Marklins. biggrin

Most of brass models have a rather simple and oversized designed gearboxes with gears made of combination of brass, steel or nylon. I have seen some american prototype of brass models that are 30 and even 40 old and heavy used rarely in need gearboxes to replaced. The main issues are in general bad current conductivity due to open frame high current draw motors and heavy tire wear. Both motor and driver wheels can be replaced with some little skills. As long as brass models are properly maintained and kept clean it will run well for eons.

One more thing Cem, I never lost money in the resale of used brass model. Okay, only case point when Marklin didn't retuned the T 16... Some brass models, I was able to sell as much as 4 times what I paid and I didn't have to wait 40-50 years praying to not be plagued by zyncpest. wink

Ed
My ancestors came from the land of rising sun. I was born in South America. Spent time in Europe. Now I live in California.
So, I am a builder of south american brass models. I read about the railroads on the Sierras. But I play with Marklin and have best time with my Marklin peers. wink
Offline tekin65  
#5 Posted : 21 November 2008 11:55:36(UTC)
tekin65

Turkey   
Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,151
Location: istanbul,
Ed hi,

As I said, I've no experience with brass models. I only know what's been said in German forums. But what you say is encouraging, I might try to buy one off eBay.

Cem.
3 rail: C-track with CS2 2 rail: Trix C-track with Trix MS - K.Bay., DRG, DR, DB, SBB, TCDD

Now all eras but no ICE

My loco inventory for the interested
Offline lokbraz  
#6 Posted : 22 November 2008 03:49:38(UTC)
lokbraz


Joined: 03/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: San Francisco, CA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by tekin65
<br />Ed hi,

As I said, I've no experience with brass models. I only know what's been said in German forums. But what you say is encouraging, I might try to buy one off eBay.

Cem.


I would elect a 3 or 4 prototypes and find out who made model them. You should do a lot of research before you go ahead an decide to buy any.

If you are looking for american brass models there are some few books that will give a list of models and prices (not really valid after existence of internet and ebay).

Look for old editions of "Brown Book" brass guide and for the history of brass, "The Brass Train Guide Book" by Dan Glasure.

I am not aware of brass catalog book for european models. If anybody has this information, I would be very glad if you share with us.

Ed
My ancestors came from the land of rising sun. I was born in South America. Spent time in Europe. Now I live in California.
So, I am a builder of south american brass models. I read about the railroads on the Sierras. But I play with Marklin and have best time with my Marklin peers. wink
Offline tekin65  
#7 Posted : 22 November 2008 09:02:12(UTC)
tekin65

Turkey   
Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,151
Location: istanbul,
Hello Ed,

Thanks for the advice. I think relatively less detailed electrics would fall into my price range. After what you've said I think Lemaco, Fulgurex, or Roxy would be my target brands.

What do you think about converting them to digital? Would that in any way diminish the future value of a 2nd hand brass model?

Thanks for your help.

Cem.
3 rail: C-track with CS2 2 rail: Trix C-track with Trix MS - K.Bay., DRG, DR, DB, SBB, TCDD

Now all eras but no ICE

My loco inventory for the interested
Offline lokbraz  
#8 Posted : 23 November 2008 05:49:27(UTC)
lokbraz


Joined: 03/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: San Francisco, CA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by tekin65
<br />Hello Ed,

Thanks for the advice. I think relatively less detailed electrics would fall into my price range. After what you've said I think Lemaco, Fulgurex, or Roxy would be my target brands.

What do you think about converting them to digital? Would that in any way diminish the future value of a 2nd hand brass model?

Thanks for your help.

Cem.


One thing. I don't want to fade your enthusiasm in buying brass, but I hope you are not talking about making digital to run on Marklin system. Most , with exception of some Trix Fine Art were only produced to run on DC. While is possible to convert into AC with decoder such Loksound, the real roadblock will be the lack of NEM high flange wheels. If you goal is to convert DC into DCC is very straight forward since the trucks are usually insulated from chassis of electrics.

Good luck,

Ed
My ancestors came from the land of rising sun. I was born in South America. Spent time in Europe. Now I live in California.
So, I am a builder of south american brass models. I read about the railroads on the Sierras. But I play with Marklin and have best time with my Marklin peers. wink
Offline tekin65  
#9 Posted : 23 November 2008 09:17:14(UTC)
tekin65

Turkey   
Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,151
Location: istanbul,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by lokbraz
<br />I hope you are not talking about making digital to run on Marklin system ... While is possible to convert into AC with decoder such Loksound, the real roadblock will be the lack of NEM high flange wheels.


Ed hi,

I think what you're saying is that Märklin tracks are no good for low wheel flanges. I was planning on converting to M* digital but I will build a seperate layout for the brass models with hand-laid tracks. I'm planning to use Proto87 code 83 rails. I also would like to run them from pantho, so no pick-up shoe needed.

Cem.
3 rail: C-track with CS2 2 rail: Trix C-track with Trix MS - K.Bay., DRG, DR, DB, SBB, TCDD

Now all eras but no ICE

My loco inventory for the interested
Offline lokbraz  
#10 Posted : 25 November 2008 09:11:55(UTC)
lokbraz


Joined: 03/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: San Francisco, CA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by tekin65
<br />
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by lokbraz
<br />I hope you are not talking about making digital to run on Marklin system ... While is possible to convert into AC with decoder such Loksound, the real roadblock will be the lack of NEM high flange wheels.


Ed hi,

I think what you're saying is that Märklin tracks are no good for low wheel flanges. I was planning on converting to M* digital but I will build a seperate layout for the brass models with hand-laid tracks. I'm planning to use Proto87 code 83 rails. I also would like to run them from pantho, so no pick-up shoe needed.

Cem.


Hello Cem, that is what I meant. I also would look for curves that would be no tighter than 30-34cm radius. If you have the idea of what specific models are you looking for perhaps I can tell who made them.

Ed
My ancestors came from the land of rising sun. I was born in South America. Spent time in Europe. Now I live in California.
So, I am a builder of south american brass models. I read about the railroads on the Sierras. But I play with Marklin and have best time with my Marklin peers. wink
Offline tekin65  
#11 Posted : 25 November 2008 10:32:02(UTC)
tekin65

Turkey   
Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,151
Location: istanbul,
Ed hi,

Thanks, you've already helped a lot. I'm out hunting ...

To start with I probably will go for a (relatively) cheaper Roxy, or Fulgurex e-lok instead of a certain loco. But to tell you the truth I've no idea if these are cheaper alternatives ...

Cheers,

Cem.
3 rail: C-track with CS2 2 rail: Trix C-track with Trix MS - K.Bay., DRG, DR, DB, SBB, TCDD

Now all eras but no ICE

My loco inventory for the interested
Offline WelshMatt  
#12 Posted : 25 November 2008 12:36:26(UTC)
WelshMatt


Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,345
Location: ,
I don't think "cheaper" and "brass" go together! biggrin

My response to all of the badmouthing of plastic locos would be the little Hornby 0-4-0 I had aged four or so. I ran the wheels off that thing, and it lasted fifteen years before I needed to replace the drive gear. Not a problem as parts were readily available, and not bad at all considering that the same models are still being sold for under £20. That cheap toy ran for years!
Matt from Wales.

When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality
Offline tekin65  
#13 Posted : 25 November 2008 12:39:06(UTC)
tekin65

Turkey   
Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,151
Location: istanbul,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by WelshMatt
<br />I don't think "cheaper" and "brass" go together! biggrin


Yes Matt, you're right; I meant "relatively cheaper" amongst other brass products such as Lemaco ... biggrin

Cem.
3 rail: C-track with CS2 2 rail: Trix C-track with Trix MS - K.Bay., DRG, DR, DB, SBB, TCDD

Now all eras but no ICE

My loco inventory for the interested
Offline Rowan  
#14 Posted : 02 December 2008 09:50:47(UTC)
Rowan


Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,278
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by WelshMatt
<br />I don't think "cheaper" and "brass" go together! biggrin

My response to all of the badmouthing of plastic locos would be the little Hornby 0-4-0 I had aged four or so. I ran the wheels off that thing, and it lasted fifteen years before I needed to replace the drive gear. Not a problem as parts were readily available, and not bad at all considering that the same models are still being sold for under £20. That cheap toy ran for years!


That's it!biggrin

I seem to have been a bit clumsy on my first post in this thread, what I was wondering is that one pays a price for a Märklin or Brawa.A cool fine scale highly detailed,delicate model.

I heard some scuttlebutt that there were some design problems.
They will be worn out in a short time, they will not last , and no spare parts.

I was wondering if any one had had/know; any of these problems please?

Thanks.

Smile

Offline Westfield Depot  
#15 Posted : 02 December 2008 15:01:28(UTC)
Westfield Depot


Joined: 30/04/2007(UTC)
Posts: 94
Location: , OH
I've had some experience with American prototype models in brass. The running characteristics can be variable. It really depends on the manufacturer but in many cases the importer is the deciding factor. Did they design the model for show or to run? How did they test the pilot models? etc. I've seen cases where an importer designed a model for very high detail and prototypical accuracy and only tested the pilot model by running it back and forth and a straight test track. Well, when the finished models shipped the trailing trucks were so "accurate" thy couldn't handle model railroad curves without shorting against some detail parts or the frame. They were such an "accurate" model that the only ran on the much broader curves in the real world. The best thing to do is ask around on various forums or in clubs if anyone has had experience with a particular model, builder or importer.

As to Brawa and the like, they may make highly detailed models but they are still mass production, commercial, manufacturers (even if their total out put is less then some larger brands) and as such they have to make design compromises for runability. Now, maybe not as many as say Marklin (again, be weary of tight curves) but there are some considerations for running the models on a model railroad.

One last point, most brass and other highly detailed models are not designed to be handled. Put them on the track and leave them or in your display case but don't expect to pick them up and move them back and forth a lot. They are not designed to be toys but scale models for adults.

Chris
Chris
Modeling Märklin Epoch I K.W.St.E. in Ohio USA
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