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PierreGILLARD		#1 Posted : 26 November 2005 21:05:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Hello, I have recently started with my project of converting a Walthers # 933-3171 Turntable to the Märklin AC 3 rail system. At this stage of the project, I am absolutely not sure that I will succeed, but it is the kind of challenge that I like. In case of a successful conversion that means that it will be possible to have a working turntable for less than Euros 100.00. So I will keep you informed regularly about the conversion work progress. If you have any comments or suggestion, feel free to post them. Let's start with the beginning : the original kit : http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-3171 Then the first step : add two M-Track 5106 center conductor rails to the deck. I have used Evergreen # 178 styrene strips to hold both center conductors in place. Then, I have removed all bracings of bridge structure and checked if it fitted on the deck. Next step would now be to paint both the deck and the bridge structure. Pierre.
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ulf999		#2 Posted : 26 November 2005 21:29:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		I'm eagerly awaiting the outcome of this...
		Ulf, American HO. www.goldenvalleyroute.com/
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steventrain		#3 Posted : 26 November 2005 21:55:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Very good work,keep it going and keep posted soon.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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Sander van Wijk		#4 Posted : 26 November 2005 22:43:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,248 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands; Göteborg, Sverige,		Looking at your pictures, I don't think it will be a problem to convert it. You've already done one of the most difficult things with success I guess. Good luck! I would really like to stay informed on your progress!
		Sander --- Era I(b): K.Bay.Sts.B. and K.W.St.E.
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franciscohg		#5 Posted : 27 November 2005 00:52:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		Nice work Pierre!!! have you think of using some K-track to do the conversion?
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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bmcrae		#6 Posted : 27 November 2005 01:15:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 970 Location: Okanagan Valley, BC		Pierre... It looks like you are well on your way. Nice job. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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stephenbb		#7 Posted : 27 November 2005 01:51:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,836 Location: Trumbull, CT		Very nice work, keep us posted. Stephen(USA)
		Stephen(USA) ETE,NMRA,MEA
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PierreGILLARD		#8 Posted : 27 November 2005 16:46:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by ulf999 <br />I'm eagerly awaiting the outcome of this... I do as well ! Pierre.
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PierreGILLARD		#9 Posted : 27 November 2005 16:52:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Sander van Wijk <br />Looking at your pictures, I don't think it will be a problem to convert it. You've already done one of the most difficult things with success I guess. (...) My fear is now the glueing of the Code 80 rails and their allignment. Once that operation will be completed, I will be sure that the most difficult part of the work is backwards. Pierre.
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PierreGILLARD		#10 Posted : 27 November 2005 16:56:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by franciscohg <br />Nice work Pierre!!! have you think of using some K-track to do the conversion? Using K-Track on the bridge was my first idea but it requires a lot of work to redesign the deck. So, I am trying that way with Code 80 rails. If it works like that, that's OK; if not, it would still be time to switch to a K-Track option. Pierre.
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PierreGILLARD		#11 Posted : 27 November 2005 16:58:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Thanks to all for your support. As the weather is not vey good here, I will continue to paint the turntable. Pierre.
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ulf999		#12 Posted : 27 November 2005 19:40:17(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		I think I read some where that Marklin uses code 90. Would code 80 be a problem? Guess we'll find out soon
		Ulf, American HO. www.goldenvalleyroute.com/
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franciscohg		#13 Posted : 27 November 2005 20:08:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		BTW, if this conversion works, does anyone knows if there are some smaller turntables over there? I have seen in many little stations, very small turntables for small locos only and used for switching direction mainly. It would be a nice add on for my litle layout.
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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PierreGILLARD		#14 Posted : 27 November 2005 21:04:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by franciscohg <br />BTW, if this conversion works, does anyone knows if there are some smaller turntables over there? I have seen in many little stations, very small turntables for small locos only and used for switching direction mainly. It would be a nice add on for my litle layout. Hello Francisco, There are several possibilities. Some techniques are detailed in a chapter of that book : http://store.yahoo.net/kalmbachcatalog/12228.html Another option could be to modify a 9" Atlas turntable : http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-305 I hope this will be of use. Pierre.
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john black		#15 Posted : 28 November 2005 10:06:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Great work, Pierre [:p] !!
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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franciscohg		#16 Posted : 28 November 2005 15:46:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		Thanks for the links Pierre. i think i will give a try to the atlas turntable when i have the results of your conversion :)
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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steventrain		#17 Posted : 28 November 2005 20:12:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Good turntable book!
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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PierreGILLARD		#18 Posted : 18 December 2005 18:29:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		I now have completed the painting and initial weathering of the turntable bridge frame and deck. Bridge frame was first painted with Humbrol Satin # 123 Dark Grey then drybrushed with successively Humbrol # 113 Rust, Humbrol # 33 Black and Floquil # 110006 Dust. Deck was first painted with Humbrol # 110 Natural Wood, washed with a mix of Humbrol # 27, 29 and 33. I applied then a coat of # 49 Matt Varnish and drybrushed with Black # 33. At last, I painted metallic details with # 123 and drybrushed them with # 113. Here are the pictures. Unfortunately, weathering do not appear exactly as actual. Lighting when taking the pictures was not really good ... should ask to Alberto next time !
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stephenbb		#19 Posted : 18 December 2005 21:29:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,836 Location: Trumbull, CT		I would have used K track its more compatible with the Wallter turntable, and easier to laydown then M track. Saying thaty your job looks great. Happy Holidays!!! Stephen(USA)
		Stephen(USA) ETE,NMRA,MEA
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franciscohg		#20 Posted : 19 December 2005 00:42:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		But it is not M nor K track, it is the original turntable track plus the 3rd rail from an M track.
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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ulf999		#21 Posted : 19 December 2005 08:20:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Good job Pierre!
		Ulf, American HO. www.goldenvalleyroute.com/
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PierreGILLARD		#22 Posted : 22 December 2005 02:55:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by franciscohg <br />But it is not M nor K track, it is the original turntable track plus the 3rd rail from an M track. That is right excepted that rails are not provided with original Walthers kit. You have to buy them separately. Gracias Francisco.
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PierreGILLARD		#23 Posted : 22 December 2005 02:59:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by ulf999 <br />Good job Pierre! Thanks Ulf. I have bought a more powerful soldering iron to work on the rails very soon. That will be the critical point where this conversion will be a success or will fail. Pierre.
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Sander van Wijk		#24 Posted : 24 December 2005 23:37:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,248 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands; Göteborg, Sverige,		Hi Pierre, Once again I'm impressed by your work. The colours are very nice, track (third rail) looks great! You're a true modelling artist! Merry X-mas to all of you! Yours,
		Sander --- Era I(b): K.Bay.Sts.B. and K.W.St.E.
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PierreGILLARD		#25 Posted : 08 January 2006 19:47:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Hello, I probably completed the most difficult part of the conversion this morning : I added both Code 80 rails and soldered wires to all three rails. Glueing of Code 80 rails was less complicated than I first thought. Close-ups on wires : I then used an E40 to test the concept of the conversion ... and that works fine ! The next step will now be the completion of the bridge, add some rust on rails and give a final touch to the weathering. In the meantime, I can begin with the painting of the pit. I already have applied a coat of Tamiya white primer from a can. So, I am really happy with the first positive functional test. This release me some pressure ... Pierre.
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Sander van Wijk		#26 Posted : 08 January 2006 21:14:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,248 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands; Göteborg, Sverige,		Congratulations! You're getting closer and closer to a great result! Maybe you can set an example for other ModelRailRoaders to start experimenting with these kind of materials. Impressive!
		Sander --- Era I(b): K.Bay.Sts.B. and K.W.St.E.
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PierreGILLARD		#27 Posted : 08 January 2006 23:37:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Dank U, Sander. This method can be "exported" to other applications such as all kind of bridges or trestles. I still have a long term project of building a Micro Engineering 210' Tall Steel Viaduct where I also have the intention to use salvaged M-Track center conductors. Further details about Micro Engineering viaduct : http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-75515 Pierre.
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jselter		#28 Posted : 09 January 2006 16:56:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/08/2004(UTC) Posts: 164 Location: DeLand, FL, USA		Pierre, AMAZING.!. When you complete this project you should consider publishing a book on kitbashing for Marklin. I'd buy it for sure. Joe
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steventrain		#29 Posted : 09 January 2006 22:37:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Excellent work,Keep up the good job,keep posted soon when it done.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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franciscohg		#30 Posted : 10 January 2006 03:02:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		Great work Pierre. Congratulations
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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laalves		#31 Posted : 10 January 2006 03:09:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal		Very nice indeed.... and a whole lot less expensive than ready-made offerings, besides much better looking too! Luis
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PierreGILLARD		#32 Posted : 10 January 2006 17:09:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Thanks for your encouragements, my friends. Joe : I prefer a webpage instead of a book. Its free and available to everybody. This would be a good opportunity to revamp my MRR website ... Steven : Surely; I will continue to regularly post news about this convertion. Francisco : Gracias. Luis : Yes, price will be really attractive. At the moment and including the motor, I have spent just a little bit more than Euros 50.00. I still have to buy now some switches, a LED and probably a couple of resistors. A basic Märklin turntable costs about Euros 320.00 to 350.00 in Canada. That's all a difference : less expensive and more fun ! Pierre.
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PierreGILLARD		#33 Posted : 14 January 2006 00:19:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Hello, Further work completed ... First, I glued small plates on the Evergreen center rail side beams in order to maintain the center rail and painted the whole assembly in black : In the meantime, I painted accessories : ... And I glued the bridge frame with the deck : I will now add accessories to the bridge and complete the weathering. Pierre.
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steventrain		#34 Posted : 14 January 2006 00:21:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Great work,Congratulations.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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ulf999		#35 Posted : 14 January 2006 10:09:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Looking good!
		Ulf, American HO. www.goldenvalleyroute.com/
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Martin T		#36 Posted : 26 January 2006 16:21:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 878 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Hi! I found no information about how this beutiful turntable was manouvered. By hand, or remotely by motorcontrol. If by hand, can motor control be added with reasonble ease?
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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PierreGILLARD		#37 Posted : 27 January 2006 01:02:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Martin T <br />Hi! Sorry for my ignorance, but I found no information about how this beutiful turntable was manouvered. By hand, or remotely by motorcontrol. If by hand, can motor control be added with reasonble ease? Hello Martin, It is my fault ... I have not given a complete description of the system. You can mororize this turntable with Walthers' motor P/N 933-1050 : http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-1050 It is my intention to operate the turntable with a simple DPDT switch. By the way, I have not really progressed with this project since last post because I have started to assemble a DPM house ... Pierre.
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Martin T		#38 Posted : 27 January 2006 11:25:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 878 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Thank you very much for the information! However, looking at the motorkit for this product, 933-1050, makes me think it should be mounted underneith the bridge. Will it still be okey to do so, even with the centerrail mounted + the supporting plastic bars? I'm seriuosly considering to order this kit with the motor and modify it as you shown here.
		Regards / Martin T Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden: http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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PierreGILLARD		#39 Posted : 28 January 2006 01:36:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Martin T <br />Thank you very much for the information! However, looking at the motorkit for this product, 933-1050, makes me think it should be mounted underneith the bridge. Will it still be okey to do so, even with the centerrail mounted + the supporting plastic bars? I'm seriuosly considering to order this kit with the motor and modify it as you shown here. Motor is located under the pit in a special housing that comes with the turntable kit. So, there is absolutely no chance of interfering with center rail and other added stuff. If you e-mail me, I will return you a PDF scan of the Walthers assembling instructions. I have now added both bogies at each end of the bridge and that was where the first problems arose. I had to sand a lot off parts # 18 (external sides of bogies) in order to have the bridge able to turn freely in the pit. I am now currently painting details of pit. I have hours of "fun" ahead painting all these hundreds of rail ties ! Pierre.
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jonquinn		#40 Posted : 28 January 2006 16:38:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,591 Location: Pennsylvania		how do you plan to prevent wire from twisting or kinking from bridge turning around and around? DId Walthers provide some sort of rotating connector? A while back at work, I had some rotating connectors purchased for thermocuple wire, those particular items would have been to heavy duty for this application, but I'm sure smaller ones are available. this was the company I bught them from, but there are probably many other sources http://www.edl-inc.com/
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PierreGILLARD		#41 Posted : 28 January 2006 23:53:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by jonquinn <br />how do you plan to prevent wire from twisting or kinking from bridge turning around and around? DId Walthers provide some sort of rotating connector? A while back at work, I had some rotating connectors purchased for thermocuple wire, those particular items would have been to heavy duty for this application, but I'm sure smaller ones are available. this was the company I bught them from, but there are probably many other sources http://www.edl-inc.com/ Thanks for the link. Walthers provides two rings to which the wires will be soldered inside. These rings will be placed then at the end of the bridge axle (where you currently see the wires going out). There are also two sliders that will be installed in the above mentioned enclosure which will be under the pit. Sliders will make contacts with the rings. Simple ... but I just hope that it will be reliable enough. Otherwise, I will have to switch to your suggestion. By the way, I have used single braid wires into the bridge because they are more resistant at soldering points. Once again, thanks for your suggestion. Pierre.
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franciscohg		#42 Posted : 30 January 2006 03:24:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		Looking good Pierre!!!!!
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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PierreGILLARD		#43 Posted : 05 February 2006 19:36:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Some works have been completed these last days on the bridge. I drybrushed the lower side of the deck with Humbrol # 33 . I added the motor housing and bracket as well as the two bogies. Both bogies gave me some troubles as said earlier. I also added an "electric" wire to the engine housing. I attached a single braid wire with Detail Associates' locomotive eye bolts # 2206. In order to facilitate the installation of the power arch and the second part of the wire, I added a "junction box" which is a part from an Evergreen beam. All these items were glued with CA and will be painted with Humbrol Satin # 85 (I left them unpainted for the picture !). I also completed the cabin. It was painted with Humbrol Satin # 126 and washed with # 33. Roof was painted with Humbrol # 56 and also washed with # 33. Interior is black # 33 and I added glasses to the windows. Door handle was painted with Humbrol # 11. I am currently completing the painting of the pit. Some pictures will be posted very soon. I would like to thank Alberto for his photographer's advises. Even if it is difficult to see improvements with this size of picture, there are ! Pierre.
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franciscohg		#44 Posted : 06 February 2006 02:52:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		Everytime it looks better. Congratulations.
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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PierreGILLARD		#45 Posted : 06 February 2006 21:28:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Here are the pictures of the painted pit. I painted the circular wall with Floquil Concrete # 110082 and drybrushed it with Humbrol Rust # 113, Dark Grey # 27 and Black # 33. Circular rail is painted with Humbrol Rust # 113 and drybrushed first on top with Humbrol Aluminium # 11 and then on the side with PloyScale Grimy Black # 414137. Rail ties are painted with Floquil Railroad Tie Brown # 110014 and drybrushed with PloyScale Grimy Black # 414137. Base of circular rail is Floquil Concrete # 110082 with both a wash and a drybrush of PloyScale Grimy Black # 414137. Bottom of the pit is painted with Humbrol Earth # 29. It will be soon re-covered by ballast gravel. Pierre.
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PierreGILLARD		#46 Posted : 06 February 2006 21:30:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by franciscohg <br />Everytime it looks better. Congratulations. Gracias, Francisco. Pierre.
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franciscohg		#47 Posted : 06 February 2006 23:13:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia		Great, the weathering on the pit just lools wonderful.
		German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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PierreGILLARD		#48 Posted : 06 February 2006 23:38:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by franciscohg <br />Great, the weathering on the pit just lools wonderful. Thanks. Mix of colors always give better results especially on concrete. But it remains very difficult to have a perfect weathering of concrete. For instance, I still have a Cornerstore Concrete Coaling Tower to complete and I fear the moment when it will be time to weatherize it. Pierre.
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john black		#49 Posted : 07 February 2006 01:00:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Looks like the real thing, Pierre
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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ulf999		#50 Posted : 07 February 2006 11:15:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		great progress!
		Ulf, American HO. www.goldenvalleyroute.com/
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