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Ayala		#1 Posted : 16 April 2007 14:59:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 24/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 79 Location: Lisbon,		Hi What’s the best option to install lights / leds inside the Passenger coaches? a) A "master" passenger coache with a Interior Light Set (leds) and a pickup shoe, connected with electrical couplers to other "client" coaches with Interior Light Sets (Leds). Example: Viessmann Interior Lighting set ref 5049, with Electrical couplers Ref 5048 plus a Marklin Pickup shoe. The "master" coache provides electrical power by the pickup shoe to other coaches through the electrical couplers. b) Each Passenger Coache with a pickup shoe and Interior Light Set but with standard couplers (No electrical couplers). Example: Marklin 7317 Lighting Kit. Every single coache is a "master", its autonomus, regarding self power. BTW, considering do mount tail red lights on the last coache of a set, what previous option would be the best? Thanks in advance Ayala
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rschaffr		#2 Posted : 16 April 2007 15:57:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		c) light the coaches from the engine either from a function or from the engine lights function,which is what I do. I use RTS couplers. When the lok is shutdown, the coaches are dark. Also no additional pickup shoes.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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David Dewar		#3 Posted : 16 April 2007 17:44:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		I agree with Ron. With some locos you may need to drill a small hole to pass the wires through. If you dont want to take the power from the loco then just one pickup on one coach is fine and a function decoder can be placed in the coach to turn the lights off and on. If you fit a pick up to each coach a large rake of coaches will be very noisy. AS Ron says RTS couplers or the new M ones (which are RTS) are very good. As for the lighting units there is quite a large selection most of which are very over priced and which you want to use really is a matter for you to decide. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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Ayala		#4 Posted : 16 April 2007 18:40:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 24/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 79 Location: Lisbon,		RSCHAFFT: Lighting the coaches from the engine is indeed a good idea! I never thought that could be an option! As I'm using C-Marklin with a CS, I could turn on and off the Coaches lights using the same function for the Engine! It needs extra work opening the engine frame and select the correct location to connect the wire to power the coaches. In this case, I would need also electric couplers between the coaches. My question about your option is: where should I connect the wire, and how many coaches can a engine provide power to? David Dewar[b] Regarding your option, you mentioned a function decoder? What devices have you in mind to such function? It's an easy operation? Could this function decoder be controlled by a CS? The options you both mentioned are indeed much cheaper and less noisy too! thanks Ayala
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rschaffr		#5 Posted : 16 April 2007 19:50:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Ayala: The decoder can only provide limited current. I install a small micro relay in the engine and power it from the decoder. I then take track power to the contacts of the relay and feed it out of the coupler on the lok. That way I can light an unlimited number of coaches. The relay depends on the decoder. For the older Marklin ones, you need a 24v relay. For the newer ones the function voltage is reduced and may or may not drive the relay. For ESU and the newer Marklin ones I use a 12v relay. I buy mine from Mouser.com and are made bu OEG. Part numbers I user are: 12v PCJ-112D3MH 24v PCJ-124D3MH I really like doing it this way. I have converted a little over half my fleet so far.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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mario54i		#6 Posted : 16 April 2007 20:03:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 303 Location: Torino,		option d) use two poles current conducting couplers, available as spare parts at similar price of the Marklin/RTS (BTW, when they were RTS costed 4 euros). No current return through wheels, then no friction, no flicker due to dirty rail/wheels. Regards Mario
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rschaffr		#7 Posted : 16 April 2007 21:18:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		I was using the Viessmann 2pole couplers (in fact I still have one train equipped with them). They worked great but could not be coupled to other Marklin cars with relex or kurzkupplung type couplers. I wanted to be able to (1) use the engine for non lit trains if necessary or 2) add non-lit cars on a passenger train. With the Viessmann couplers I couldn't do that.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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David Dewar		#8 Posted : 17 April 2007 02:30:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		Marklin make function decoders as do Uhlenbrock. I am using Uhlenbrock as they are small and fit easily in the coaches. This is something which you should experiment with and try the various methods. It is not permanent and you can change at any time to what you like best. The CS will control a functions decoder and will switch the lighting on and off. If you use Uhlenbrock as I do you will find Lars on this forum very helpful with the wiring which if I remember is red and black for power and blue and green to the lighting unit. Start with one coach to see which type of light bar you like best then add on the others later. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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DaleSchultz		#9 Posted : 17 April 2007 17:42:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997		I cant bring myself around to fooling about with current conducting couplers and drilling holes in the loco, extra relays etc for wagon lighting... as I see itthe advantage is this: You can switch them on and off digitally. OK. It is not so good when passenger coaches are in a siding (not in a train) and their lights are on I agree. But if it remains in a train, whats wrong with each coach having its own pickup shoe ? Slider noise ? Trains make a lot of noise, so I am not too concerned about that. I am wondering if a tiny manual switch would be a simpler and cheaper solution... or park the train with the pickup shoes on some paper..
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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rschaffr		#10 Posted : 17 April 2007 19:18:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Dale: To each his own. I happen to enjoy designing solutions for problems like this and making them work. That is why I bother with live catenary in hidden areas. To me it is part of the fun. If it's not for everyone, that's fine, but that doesn't make my approach wrong, just different. One of the great things about this hobby is that it can be anything you want it to be and can exercise your imagination and development/construction skills in many different ways, according to your own desires.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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DaleSchultz		#11 Posted : 17 April 2007 19:48:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997		Ron, I agree fully with you, each person's goals are different. I was just expressing mine !
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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Pianne		#12 Posted : 17 April 2007 19:51:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 461 Location: Bruges,		Instead of the function decoder, you could also use efel's cheap and easy method to turn the lights on or off, see : https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=6666 In fact, I think this would allow you to have the lights go off automatically when entering the tunnel to hidden yard and back on when leaving. Just by mounting a magnet in the tunnel entrance. ...come to think of it, the pantos may not like that solution[xx(] If you want a cheap decoder, TAMS sells small locdecoders with up to 4 function outputs for 10 to 15 euros.
		Kind regards, Pieter-Jan Bruges, Belgium.
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DaleSchultz		#13 Posted : 17 April 2007 20:08:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997		I would prefer not to have batteries in my trains. I will likely forget them and they may eventually leak. It seems there is a ready power source (tracks) so close by it would be better to always take power from the track. (just a personal preference). Really cheap decoders with a single function sound like a great solution.
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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Pianne		#14 Posted : 17 April 2007 20:09:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 461 Location: Bruges,		Dale, The reed-switch solution can be used with track power just as well, no?
		Kind regards, Pieter-Jan Bruges, Belgium.
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DaleSchultz		#15 Posted : 17 April 2007 20:28:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Pianne <br /> The reed-switch solution can be used with track power just as well, no? certainly yes of course. but then they are only swithed in specific places.
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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efel		#16 Posted : 17 April 2007 21:05:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC) Posts: 800		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Pianne <br />Instead of the function decoder, you could also use efel's cheap and easy method to turn the lights on or off, see : https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=6666 In fact, I think this would allow you to have the lights go off automatically when entering the tunnel to hidden yard and back on when leaving. Just by mounting a magnet in the tunnel entrance. Yes.... but only if it is a one way section AND the coach is always in the same direction! Remember, the switch is "polarized": it is ON if the internal and external magnets are in the same direction, and vice versa. Then it's possible but only in few specific cases. On the other hand, the magnetic switch can be used in place of a decoder or an unaesthetic switch. Fred
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David Dewar		#17 Posted : 17 April 2007 23:31:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		Having tried various methods (other than paper under the pickup) I have found that taking the power from the loco gives the best flicker free result and does save buying other pickups and other decoders. I am still not sure though which light bar is the best although the one designed for the specific coach does tend to work better. The new M lighting is in my view too expensive and the lighting is yellow which does not suit all eras. I likes the old M set 73150 and have bought some of these before they disappear. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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kimballthurlow		#18 Posted : 18 April 2007 01:06:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia		Hi, I found the lighting discussion very useful. It is perhaps in Marklin's interests, to provide a coupler system that allows locomotives to light the carriages. I would much prefer to wait for M to do this. It appears technically possible, and very prototypical as well. In the meantime, I will use the facilities already in my coaches, with individual pickups, and other sets with c-c couplers. I like the paper on the track too. regards Kimball
		HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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David Dewar		#19 Posted : 18 April 2007 01:17:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		Marklin have had a coupler system for years which will light coaches and most coaches are prepared for it. The point being that only one pickup should be used. I cant quite understand how using bits of paper under coaches pickups quite fits in to todays model rail systems...I thought that was just a bit of fun but perhaps I am wrong. Even isolated track with a switch would surely be better. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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DaleSchultz		#20 Posted : 18 April 2007 01:52:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997		well the bits of paper was pretty much tongue-in-cheek I was just highlighting that there are much simpler solutions.
		Dale Intellibox + own software, K-Track My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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kimballthurlow		#21 Posted : 18 April 2007 02:11:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia		Hello David, Yes but the current conducting (c-c) couplers are intended between coaches, not between loco and coaches, is that correct? My brother lives in Fort William. Yes, he left sunny Queensland to live there! regards Kimball
		HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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rschaffr		#22 Posted : 18 April 2007 02:20:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		I use them between the locos and the coaches (see above). No reason not to if you want to.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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David Dewar		#23 Posted : 18 April 2007 13:24:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		Hi Kimball. Nice area around Fort William and even the weather at present is great. As Ron says you can use the couplers on the loco to connect the first coach. I appreciate that this method does require more work but the results are good. Why not just try two coaches with the one pickup and see how that goes then take it from there. If you find that OK then a cheap decoder which will switch the lights on and off could be the next step. I think lighting is a bit similar to sound some people like it and some see it as a waste of time. I enjoy a layout in the dark with lighted coaches coming out of tunnels and going through a station with platform lights etc. Gives a different dimension to the layout. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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kimballthurlow		#24 Posted : 18 April 2007 14:05:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia		Thanks, David. I can follow yours and Ron's description on where to source the switch power, and then using a small relay to introduce track power for the lighting. By the way, what do you mean by RTS couplers? Yes, I went to Fort William about 11 years ago, the wide open spaces reminded me of Australia, but it was much colder. regards Kimball
		HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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rschaffr		#25 Posted : 18 April 2007 16:14:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Kimball: RTS is a brand. They copied (or used) the Marklin kurzkuppplung and added a contact strip. Marklin liked them so much that they are marketing them now as a Marklin product. I buy mine from Martin Hoffmann (a forum member). See http://www.marklin-eh.co...talog.cfm?CategoryID=156 I agree with David. Take a couple of coaches you want to light, put a pickup shoe on one, and experiment. You can always remove the shoe and modify an engine later. Get some experience working with the coaches first.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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Macfire		#26 Posted : 19 April 2007 21:11:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,652 Location: New Zealand		I'm upgrading a consist of four 4029 coaches (repainting roofs, scratch-building interiors hopefully replacement concertinas between the coaches). I'm going to install VIE5049's powered by a single pick-up shoe. Permanently join the couplings and then run a black connecting wire (similar to our brake hoses) between coaches. I'll then experiment by overpainting some of the LED's black to give each coach and different effect. As for storage on sidings without the lights on I am looking at one of two options. Isolate the supply to the siding or use Hornby Flexi-track (ducking for cover now) for the last part of the siding so there is no current for the pick-up shoe. I am also drilling out the rear of the last coach and fitting two clear plastic sprue pieces for the rear lights. I will either paint these red or place red gift wrap (clear plastic not paper) over them.
		Lord Macca New Zealand branch of Clan Donald.
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rschaffr		#27 Posted : 19 April 2007 21:23:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Sounds like a fun project. Let us know how it goes. Pictures would be nice, too.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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trainbuff		#28 Posted : 26 May 2007 17:07:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 507 Location: Atlanta, Georgia		Hi, I want to add current couplers to a 37030. Exactly how do you get power to current conduction couplers on a locomotive? Do you just solder a small wire to the conducting strip on the coupler? Is 72020 the right current coupler to get? Thanks!
		My Loks: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15896 My Layout: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15251
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rschaffr		#29 Posted : 26 May 2007 18:23:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Yes, it is. I cut the copper tail back just enough so that it doesn't protrude out of the NEM pocket (to avoid shorts to the lok body) then solder a wire to the copper right where it turns under the coupler body from the coupler (it can't interfere with seating it in the NEM pocket). I then run the wire up into the lok and either solder it to the main feed from the pickup shoe or to a relay controlled by my decoder. Do not drive this directly from the decoder...you will overload it.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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Ayala		#30 Posted : 26 May 2007 22:20:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 24/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 79 Location: Lisbon,		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr <br />Yes, it is. I cut the copper tail back just enough so that it doesn't protrude out of the NEM pocket (to avoid shorts to the lok body) then solder a wire to the copper right where it turns under the coupler body from the coupler (it can't interfere with seating it in the NEM pocket). I then run the wire up into the lok and either solder it to the main feed from the pickup shoe or to a relay controlled by my decoder. Do not drive this directly from the decoder...you will overload it. I Ron That looks a very good idea to me! So the electric wire should be solder directly from the pickshoe to the 72020 Current-Conducting Close Coupler and them fixed below the locomotive structure, correct? Could you share a photo with us, please? thanks a lot Ayala Botto Lisbon, Portugal
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trainbuff		#31 Posted : 27 May 2007 01:06:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 507 Location: Atlanta, Georgia		Thanks Ron!
		My Loks: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15896 My Layout: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15251
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Ross		#32 Posted : 27 May 2007 02:06:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 945 Location: Sydney, NSW		Hi Ayala, On my web site at http://members.ozemail.c.../~rossstew/rms/tips.html I have 3 articles on coach lighting, see "6080 Coach Lighting Decoder", "Light diffuser" and "Coach Lighting" Maybe this will help and give you new ideas to try. Regards Ross
		Ross
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1 user liked this useful post by Ross		HerrDoktorBD
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Ayala		#33 Posted : 27 May 2007 02:42:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 24/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 79 Location: Lisbon,		Hi Ross, thanks for the links! very usefull! I already installed the interior lights on all 3 coaches, as well as all electric connections. All the 3 coaches has electric connections to one of the weels but one of the coaches also has a pickshoe. Now, I'm having problems connecting the Marklin 72020 Current-Conducting Close Couple between to coaches. I'm using 4x 72020 electric couples between the 3 coaches. It seems the metalic pointing part of each Current-Conducting Close Couple is too long and avoids the coaches to couple each other. This only happend with coaches with 702020 sets. The coaches have the references 43910, 43940 and 43950. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Is 72020 the right current coupler to use with coaches 43910, 43940 and 43950? thanks in advance Ayala Botto Lisbon, Portugal
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Ross		#34 Posted : 27 May 2007 02:56:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 945 Location: Sydney, NSW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Ayala <br />Hi Ross, thanks for the links! very usefull! I already installed the interior lights on all 3 coaches, as well as all electric connections. All the 3 coaches has electric connections to one of the weels but one of the coaches also has a pickshoe. Ayala Botto Lisbon, Portugal Hi Ayala, I don't use Marklin current conducting couplers as it is only 1 pole. I use only 1 collector shoe and 1 wheel contact for the entire train, this keeps drag on the loco to a minimum and connected by 2 wires using home made connectors, all lights are switchable using some form of digital decoder. I usually have a diode bridge and electro capacitor in circuit for flicker free lighting. Ross
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David Dewar		#35 Posted : 27 May 2007 19:03:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		Ross Can you tell me please where you get the 2 pole connectors. Also does placing the pickup shoe and ground on the same bogie work well. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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Oscar		#36 Posted : 27 May 2007 22:32:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/11/2003(UTC) Posts: 783 Location: ,		<font face="Verdana]The suggestions in this discussion are perfect for relatively new models and modern lay-outs. Me, I'm still in the Dark Ages when it comes to model railroad technology. Nothing but M-rail and fully analogue circuits. No way I'm going to alter my old metal coaches in any way. When I use lighting, I tend to use one pick-up shoe and connect the coaches through very thin wires. With the old metal coaches I use, there are slits in the front and back sides that resemble windows. I run the wires through those slits. It is important to use very flexible wiring, otherwise the coaches will derail in curves.</font id="Verdana]
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rschaffr		#37 Posted : 27 May 2007 23:20:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,181 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Oscar: Yes the old tinplate coaches are a treasure. Except for trhe first few I did, I have bought new bogies and modifed then to NEM pockets and have saved the original bogies so I can always restore the cars to their original splendor. Same with loks I have converted to digital...I have all the analog parts for each lok lovingly preserved each in it's own labeled ziplok bag in case I ever want to convert them back.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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nevw		#38 Posted : 28 May 2007 02:38:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by David Dewar <br />Ross Can you tell me please where you get the 2 pole connectors. Also does placing the pickup shoe and ground on the same bogie work well. David DAvid, Viessmann have 2 pole conductors. From Lokshop or ETs. Fitting both on hte same bogie will be a bit tight. I usually Have shoe on one the ground on another. However using 2 Pole Connectors it is not much of a problem. Nev
		NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
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Ross		#39 Posted : 28 May 2007 02:48:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 945 Location: Sydney, NSW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by David Dewar <br />Ross Can you tell me please where you get the 2 pole connectors. Also does placing the pickup shoe and ground on the same bogie work well. David Hi David, From Farnell you can get Harwin pin headers and sockets (SIL) single in line header #617-915 and socket #672-117 (both 2ways) these are 2mm pitch or you can get 2.54 (.1") header #511-705 and socket #512-187 Another alternative is to use Turned pin contacts from Harwin #176-370 20way or #176-371 32way thes can be cut to suit the number of contacts you require. The sockets are #366-5690 20way and #366-5707 32way. Having the collector shoe and wheel contact on the same bogie keeps the wires together and works well Ross
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David Dewar		#40 Posted : 28 May 2007 14:36:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,458 Location: Scotland		Hi Nev : Tried Viessmann couplers but I find they are not reliable. The best were Roco but they would not uncouple easily but with four pole connections they had a big advantage...no longer available thought. One good point about having both pickups on the one wheel set would be easier wiring. Ross : Thanks for info but being in Scotland I dont know who Farnell are and probably not worth the postage from Australia. I will continue with the single pole at present which is good for uncoupling but not so good for control by decoder in the first coach. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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