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Offline trainbuff  
#1 Posted : 28 January 2007 22:54:49(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Is there a list of upgrade paths for Markline HO locs? Every time I see a used loc I might like to buy, I have no clue if it can be upgraded to delta, digital, five pole motor, or if sound can be added at a later date, etc.

A long time ago I worked on computers and there were published upgrade paths that listed what computer could be taken how far along an upgrade path, what parts were needed and what skill level was required. There must be something like that for Marklin.

If there isn't such a list, then here are two questions (and I'm sure more in the future I'm sure!):
1) BR 52, 3393. Can it be upgraded to digital? Sound? MFX?
2) BR 80, 33043. Same questions.

I noticed someone posted similar a question about adding sound to a BR 86. I bet a list would answer a lot of folk's questions.

Thanks for your help!
Chris
Offline intruder  
#2 Posted : 28 January 2007 23:19:48(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Basically, all locos can be upgraded, provided that it is enough space inside the loco for a decoder.
There are a lot of different decoder suppliers, who supplies decoders for the motors with electro field magnet (All-strom motor, most of the 33xx, 34xx and 36xx locos have this), and decoders for the permanent magnet motors (DC motors, most of the 37xx locos have this).

Märklin supplies three different complete sets containing all the nessecary part for rebuilding most of the locos.

The Br 52 can be "lifted" to a five-star high performance motor, e.g. with the 60921 mfx rebuilding set, or with the 60921 motor parts and the 60931 mfx steam engine sound module.
You can of course also use other decoders, but I have no excperience with those.

The Br 80 can also be converted with the 60921 mfx set. Probably it has not enough space for a sound module and a speaker.

But, I do not know if you can find an accurate list containing all the rebuilding possibilities.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline rugauger  
#3 Posted : 29 January 2007 01:02:16(UTC)
rugauger

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/12/2003(UTC)
Posts: 1,205
Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
Hi Chris

Svein has pretty much said it all - almost all locos can be upgraded to 5-pole because Marklin has brought at conversion kits for all relevant motors. See http://www.marklin.com/tech/decodertable.html . If your model is not listed, you should be able to find a similar one that is.

The skill level for the motor conversion itself is: if you can undo a couple of screws, exchange some parts and put the whole thing back together again, then you have the necesary skills wink.

Once the motor has been converted, your options depend on
- how much money you want to spend
- how many functions (incl. sound) you want
- how much room there is in the loco
- your skills (to a certain degree)

The minimum you need is a decoder to power the 5-pole motor. The range is huge, as are the differences in functionality and price. I'd say that, for the basic conversion (5-pole motor + decoder), you require basic technical and soldering skills.

In terms of decoder, if you can fit in any decoder, you're likely to be able to fit in an MFX deocder.

There is a huge range of individual's web sites (and, of course, this forum!) that show different conversion possibilities - just trawl the web! IF you have any specific questions - you know where to ask!

Happy converting,
Richard
Offline intruder  
#4 Posted : 29 January 2007 01:19:55(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
I have also seen some of those lists, but I think there are quite a lot of locos which are farely easy to convert with one of Märklin's sets that are not listed at all.
Some places I have even seen that some locos are "impossible" to convert with Märklin's sets, which I have converted myself without any problems.

But, the list is a good guideline. And, as Richard says, amongst the members of this forum (and other places) I think "everything" have been converted, so just ask! Someone always knows something Smile
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline trainbuff  
#5 Posted : 29 January 2007 03:13:48(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Thanks for all the replies. I feel more confident taking on a larger loc. More room to work and the bulbs have their own holders.

But what about the light bulb placement in the smaller locs? I think in my Br 80 (33043) the front light bulb is directly attached to the decoder chip. Will I have to make a bulb holder out of the old chip?

I've seen complicated web pages on how folks fix the lights so they don't flicker (in Delta). When I upgrade will the lights still flicker or will I have to do additional upgrading?

Thanks again!
Offline Sander van Wijk  
#6 Posted : 29 January 2007 12:38:27(UTC)
Sander van Wijk

Netherlands   
Joined: 20/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,248
Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands; Göteborg, Sverige,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by trainbuff
<br />When I upgrade will the lights still flicker or will I have to do additional upgrading?

Thanks again!


No, in general the only necessary step to have non-flickering lights is to connect the ground of the bulb to the decoder instead of the chassis. In case of Märklin decoders: orange wire, other decoders (like ESU): the blue wire. Almost all light sockets originally connected to the chassis can be modified by inserting a smaller fitting (with two wires) into the existing one.

Further, about converting with sound, see for an overview of possible locos: http://www.loksound.de/index.php?showId=172 (only in German, but understandable for almost everyone)
Sander
---
Era I(b): K.Bay.Sts.B. and K.W.St.E.
Offline intruder  
#7 Posted : 29 January 2007 19:17:06(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
In case of 33043 it should be possible to install a normal decoder and a separate circuit board for the lights, M# 240120. I have installed the decoder in a holder, M# 240130. The front wall of the holder have to be cut off, due to the metal front wall in the loco chassis. This metal wall was missing in the first editions of the Br80, thus the front wall of the holder.

UserPostedImage
This is the MM 2000 loco, no. 33042, converted with M# 6090.

Please note the screw (green arrow) If you use the orange (ESU = blue) wire for the bulbs, to get a flicker free light, the screw must be insulated from the PCB. I have used a thin plastic washer.
The two mentioned parts are from 3304.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline brettsh  
#8 Posted : 29 January 2007 23:58:23(UTC)
brettsh


Joined: 17/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: ,
Hi,

unfortunatly the 33043 is equiped with an Delta Decoder board which integrates the bulb sockets. The old style circuit board for the bulbs #240120 is no longer availible from Maerklin. Owning the BR80-Museums Edition, I'am facing the same problem. I will convert the loco with a 60901 Upgrade kit and will probably build a do-it-yourself board for the front and rear bulbs.


Mit freundlichen Gruessen / Best Regards

Helmut Brettschneider
Offline intruder  
#9 Posted : 30 January 2007 00:29:10(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Sorry, I did not know about the M# 240120.

But, I remember that I did as trianbuff suggests; I cut out the delta decoder to make a lamp holder. I was not very happy with the result, so I ordred the 240120. But, if no other solutions...

brettsh, keep us posted about your do-it-yourself board, please.

Good luck with the convertion, both of you!
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline intruder  
#10 Posted : 30 January 2007 01:16:18(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Trainbuff, some general information about the flicering light:

In analog operation, the current to the track has a sinus waveform.

In digital operation, the power is in square form, approx +/- 22 volts. This square waveform contains the digitals signals to the locomotives and different other decoders, as well as the power supply.

The function (light) output from the different decoders is rectified, only containing the negative part of the square waveform. Therefore, the light flickers when the "other end" of the bulb is connected to the loco chassis. Only the negative part of the waveform is used. You can see a different "flicking pattern", according to the digital signal "trains" sent from the digital controller to the tracks. In some decoders you may even hear it.

The orange wire is positive, after the rectifier in the decoder. If using that one instead of the loco chassis, you use the benefit of a fully rectified current. The light becomes flicker free.

It is possible to fit your own orange wire to any decoder, if you can find the four rectifing diodes. On the decoders for the "Allstrom-motor" (the old 6080 and the normal delta decoders) you have a black wire going to one of the brush holders on the motor cover. On the 6090 (see photo) you have to make it yourself.

This black or orange is positive. It can basically be used "as is" for your bulbs, but it is recommended to fit a 2,7 Volt Zener diode to it, to keep the decoders memory e.g. in front of a red light, to remembers it's driving direction and -speed. If a 1,5 kOhm resistor is installed in parallell to the signal braker switch, that is.

UserPostedImage
An old 3000 fitted with a 60903 motor and a 6090 decoder.

Orange arrow: positive end of diode rectifier (cathode).
Purple arrow: "home made" positive output, after a 2,7 volt zener diode, it's cathode facing the rectifier's cathode. This is then used for the bulbs. The bulbs must be insulated from the loco body.

Puuuh biggrin Confused? Me too Smile
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline trainbuff  
#11 Posted : 30 January 2007 03:56:48(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Great pictures and information. That really clears up a lot for me.

I don't know how you know what part numbers to use, like 240120 and 240130, but seeing the pictures I think I can make those parts myself. Getting parts seems to take a long time in my neck of the woods:(

Intruder, you said:

...It is possible to fit your own orange wire to any decoder, if you can find the four rectifing diodes...

But then you said you had to make your own voltage source on a 6090 (your last post). But your picture of the BR 80 with a 6090 you are just using the orange wire (second to last post).

That seems like two ways with same decoder. What did I miss? I just want to put in a new (current Marklin) decoder and use the orange wire and not make my own voltage source.

Sander van Wijk -

That list from ESU is exactly what I'm talking about. However I barely understand this digital stuff using Marklin parts and will have to do much more learning before I dare use a non-Marklin decoder! The list says the BR 80 upgrade is easy. I would hate to see what is "etwas schwere"! :) Well..., maybe later...

Rugauger - That Marklin list is a bit hard to read for a beginner like me. I'm not sure what locs are similar and need an exhaustive list with serial numbers like the ESU page. But thank you for pointing it out.

Thanks to all for your help, I really appreciate it,
Chris
Offline intruder  
#12 Posted : 30 January 2007 18:32:56(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Sorry if I confused you, trainbuff.

The 6090 decoders have no "orange +". The decoders from newer high performance motor convertion sets have (normal decoders 60901 to -04, mfx decoders 60921 to -24 and the mfx sound decoders 60931 to -33).

The orange wire in the BR 80 is home made, as described about the BR 89.

The part numbers can be found under http://www.maerklin.de/service/...uktservice/miexploh0.php
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline jocoyn  
#13 Posted : 30 January 2007 19:44:11(UTC)
jocoyn


Joined: 08/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 363
Location: , SC
For the list on the Marklin.com web page, do you know what the numbers in parentheses mean in the right column?
Nancy - slowly Building Southern Appalachians USA mountain layout
Offline trainbuff  
#14 Posted : 11 February 2007 09:51:26(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Thanks for everybody's help! I just installed a 60760 in a BR 80 (33043)!

My first time and it went pretty well. Everything seems to be working, it runs much much better and the lights don't flicker.

I'm still finishing the light bulb holder....

I now have the confidence to buy older locomotives and upgrade them myself. Thanks again!

Now what to do with a left over delta decoder?
Offline intruder  
#15 Posted : 11 February 2007 16:48:25(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Very good, trainbuff!

I keep all my old decoders in a big box. I don't know if I ever need them, but you never know biggrin
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline trainbuff  
#16 Posted : 15 February 2007 02:56:30(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
I though you all may be interested to see this picture of the beginnings of my bulb holder (for the 33043). I got a white led and some resistors and it looks like it will fit and work. You can see the old bulb, the larger led, the delta decoder and my homemade bulb holder. Since I will have to solder the bulb in place, I may as well use a longer lasting led. Your thoughts? Thanks.

UserPostedImage

Edited by moderator 11 January 2011 15:08:26(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline intruder  
#17 Posted : 15 February 2007 19:38:43(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Thanks for the photo!

This is <u>my</u> opinion about LEDs compared with normal bulbs:

Pro LED:
- Uses less of the valuable current.
- Last almost forever.
- Does not get warm (the voltage drop resistor might, though).
Con LEDs:
- I do not like the "cold" light from the white ones. For modern locos maybe OK.
- The yellow ones are "too yellow" for normal lights.
- Requires a voltage drop resistor.
- Works only with one polarity.

Pro bulbs:
- Warmer light, but still quite white.
- Easy to alter the light intensity by using bulbs for different voltage. I use normally the 610080 (22 Volts) or a similar 28 Volt bulb, type T1 with long wire ends.
- AC, DC, polarity - it doesn't matter.
Con bulbs:
- Relatively high current consumption
- Gets very warm
- Limited life time

But, this is my personal taste. Technically, LEDs has big advantages, mostly for it's low current consumption, less heat (the resistor can be placed somewhere the heat doesn't matter) and it's very long lifetime. The LEDs can also be much smaller than a bulb.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline rugauger  
#18 Posted : 15 February 2007 21:54:48(UTC)
rugauger

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/12/2003(UTC)
Posts: 1,205
Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
Another pro/con: bulbs have even light distribution (360 deg), so they work in ANY position. A good example are the light conductors where a single bulb will often provide light sideways (to the bottom two lights) as well as upwards (to the top light). Just open up an old 3072 or 3031/32 and you'll get the idea.

On the contrary, most LEDs have a limited viewing angle (60, 120 deg), so the light is very "directional". This makes LEDs less suitable for use with the light conductors that you find in so many locomotives.
Richard
Offline Guus  
#19 Posted : 15 February 2007 21:59:16(UTC)
Guus

Netherlands   
Joined: 13/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,616
Svein and Richard,thank you very much for the extensive explanation.

This is one of several reasons why I like this forum so much!

Kind regards
Guus

Kind regards,
Guus
Offline trainbuff  
#20 Posted : 16 February 2007 02:39:50(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Thanks for the comments on led pros and cons. My main reason for using led is to be maintenance free.

I tested the front light collector and it seems to transmit well. It must be a lucky combination of led (radio shack 5mm white 3.6 volt, 1100mcd) and light collector. I better check the back light collector before committing.

The color did seem modern, like halogen automobile head lights. I imagine an old locomotive would have more of a yellowish tint. But I think I could live with it considering what the lights looked like as a Delta loc.

There is a yellow/white led advertised here http://www.sodigi.com/Supplies.htm that claims to "appear like an incandescent bulb". Intruder, is this the type of yellow led you mentioned? In any case I'm going to give these a try and will let you all know.
Offline efel  
#21 Posted : 17 February 2007 16:36:36(UTC)
efel

France   
Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC)
Posts: 800
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by jocoyn
<br />For the list on the Marklin.com web page, do you know what the numbers in parentheses mean in the right column?

Hi Nancy,

I found in a old (2004) Marklin magazin the meaning of that notes.
It's in German and I can't translate it, but you may use babelfish if you can't read German either.

Hinweise:
(1)Spätere Produktionen von diesem bzw. ähnlichen Modellen wurden auf Trommelkollektor-Motor umgestellt.
(2)Dieses Modell ist in der Anleitung zum 60903, 60904 als umrüstfähig gekennzeichnet.
(3) Dieses Modell ist nur mit zusätzlichem Aufwand umrüstbar.
(4) Diese Lok wurde vom Verfasser auf Umbaumöglichkeit mit 60903/4 geprüft.
(5) Senkkopfschraube am Motorschild erforderlich! Neue Modelle (z.B. 24 061 Art.-Nr. 30032)
haben eine Motorabdeckung. Diese Modelle konnten noch nicht geprüft werden.
(6) Wahrscheinlich passt das Set 60903, da das Lok-Fahrgestell der 3034 gleicht. Gehäuse prüfen!
(7) Decoder passt in gedrehter Position ohne Fräsarbeiten. Jüngere Exemplare dieser Baureihe besitzen schon Trommelkollektor-Motoren.
(8) Eventuell muss beim Anschluss die LED-Beleuchtung umgepolt werden.

Fred
Offline trainbuff  
#22 Posted : 17 February 2007 20:55:48(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Finished with BR 80,

Not easy upgrade since a new lamp holder needs to be constructed.

I decided to use a "yellowish" led, Yeloglo White LED by Miniatronics instead the first white led I tested. The yellowish light was very directional so I mounted two leds in front to be sure the light collector would get enough light.

UserPostedImage

Here is picture of bulb holder and 60760 installed.
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage

I colored the holder black because it is visible from above between the boiler and the tanks.

UserPostedImage

And finally a night shoot. Is it too ledish? I don't know.

UserPostedImage
I'm done!

If you told me, four months ago when I bought my first starter set, that I would be installing a decoder, I would have said, what's a decoder? Now back to playing with trains....

Edited by moderator 11 January 2011 15:07:51(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline Bigdaddynz  
#23 Posted : 17 February 2007 23:46:46(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,764
Location: New Zealand
Trainbuff, here's a site that documents the motor types for various Marklin locos. It is useful for finding out what conversion kit you need for a given loco. However, it is not completely up to date, there are some models that are not there.

http://www.bahn.hfkern.de/Maerklin/Menue.html
Offline HueyCE  
#24 Posted : 18 February 2007 08:27:46(UTC)
HueyCE


Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,528
Location: Groton, Connecticut
Great job on the decoder install.

Ira
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc).UserPostedImage

Offline bmcrae  
#25 Posted : 18 February 2007 08:40:51(UTC)
bmcrae

Canada   
Joined: 17/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 970
Location: Okanagan Valley, BC
Nice work trainbuff. Smile
Offline trainbuff  
#26 Posted : 19 February 2007 15:45:52(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Thanks for the compliments. I owe it to the folks on this forum.

By the way, the led lights do not look anything like the bulbs in my other steam locomotive.
Offline intruder  
#27 Posted : 13 August 2007 01:43:35(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Chris, I have picked up this old topic again to show what I did tonight with my 33043.

I like your home made pcb and LED solution a lot.


My 33043 DB 80 030:
UserPostedImage

I made a light pcb from the Delta decoder and installed the new decoder from a 60760 set in the holder 456200.

UserPostedImage

The coloured arrows indicates where I connected the different wires from the decoder.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

The finished convertion. The noise supressors are installed on a homemade small pcb in the front LH corner, under the light pcb. The unofficial f3 output is connected to a small smd LED on top of the motor, via a 1.200 Ohm resistor, to give a rather weak interior light.

UserPostedImage
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline trainbuff  
#28 Posted : 13 August 2007 01:57:33(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
That's a pretty good job of tracing the circuit and modifying it to work! If I understand the pictures right, you are using the old board for ground (gold arrow) in addition to the lights. Thanks for sharing.
Offline intruder  
#29 Posted : 13 August 2007 02:04:52(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
You are right, Chris.

The ground to the decoder is connected to the self-made solder pad indicated by the brownish arrow.
The copper lead to the left of the yellow arrow is mechanically cut.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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