Great,Keep posted soon.

Neat, I always enjoy these how-to reports.
Ira

Congratulations Bart, very good "how do it".
The pics are "profi serie"
continue please...

Really great job, Bart! Please continue!

Thanks for sharing! Great work!

Terrific work and well documented instructions.
Nev

I'm amazed by your talents as a teacher, please, continue...

I so want to see more of this restoration that every time someone posts to this thread I click on it hoping that there are more pictures from Bart. Unfortunately it always seems to be someone else saying they want to see more.

Oh no! I've done the same thing now!



Ray

Good job!! I want to see the rest!!

That looks better than the original factory finish on mine.

Looking forward to seing more.[:p]

Ray

There is also another way for the vents,I tried this later and think it is easier.

This other model was sprayed green first,than black was applied,lining inclusive.
Silver lining was done taping the green and black part (rather difficult) and vents are described here.

Base is this



Place a piece of scotch on the model,including the high edges of the vent.

Bottom



And top



Cut tape for the space between the vents,place a knive on the tap and turn.



Tape the sides of the vents also including the high edges.



Cut little pieces of tape for the edges and place them on the model.



It doesn't matter that these pieces are straight and the corners of the vents round. When spraying paint will go under them,right to the high edge of the vent.

And the completed masking job



That's it for now,next update sometimes next week.

Bart

[:p]

Terrific Instructions.
Nev

Excellent job Bart!
What paint are you using? I mean brand not type.
What do you prefer for the red steamer frames and wheels?

BR,
Juha

Thanks alot again.
I am eagerly awaiting the next series!
(When you get to explaining decals and numbering/texting I will decide if I will try my hand on some of my models... ;-)

Specifically about the E41; Would it be worth using a dremel to grind down all the electrical details molded on the roof, and substitute it with spareparts from the catanary system? (isolators, wires, etc...)

Update #3.

First about the question what brand of paint I use; I have no idea! I order them from TTN-shop,and they won't tell me.[V]

Also something about the viscosity of the paint; this should be a little thicker than milk. (buttermilk?)
Again,use low pressure (1.6 bar),and spray rather thick layers.
Nitropaint dries fast,so if one of the above mentioned isn't correct then your layer of paint gets rough.
It also shouldn't be too cold,IMHO above 20 degrees.

In today's update the roof and the black part are painted.
Let's start with the roof.

To tape the front of the roof cut a narrow piece of crepp. This allows you to bent it a little to follow the contour of the roof.



Press it where there is material (between the windows),but don't press in the window area, simply because there isn't anything to press it on.
The edge of the roof has to take care that no paint flies under.

After this tape the sides to the edge of the roof. Since the vents stick out a little I use a dot of paper to press the paper to the edge of the roof.



In general; never put to much pressure on the tape,this will avoid you ripping the paint off when removing the tape. Very big surfaces are best underlayed with plain paper. Also slowly remove the tape after a paintjob.

When all the green parts are covered it's time to spray again.
Start spraying the vents on the roof to make sure paint gets in their small holes.



After this spray the sides of the wires and insulators, also to make sure they are covered all the way through with paint.



And the pantomotors



Next the roof is completely sprayed,starting in the middle, from front to back.
Don't spray downwards on the sides of the roof to make sure you won't spray under the tape.

Also the oilcooler is done now. Watch out for the opposite side of the shell,don't spray to much silver on it!



Et voila!



The black part...

Taping the black part is almost the same as for the green part.
Make yourself some very fine lines of scotch tape (or buy some tape),and go all around taping the silver to where the black starts.



Cover the doors again with small pieces of crepp.



For the fronts cut a narrow piece of crepp and place it on the step,in a way that the underside of the crepp is a little below the silver lining when viewing from the front.



Then fold it using your fingernail and a toothpick. Make sure it doesn't leave a gap with the scotchtape.



Cover the rest with crepp, also making sure the scotch is covered.
Also cover the oilcooler.

Spray the inside first (make a nice pattern) by spraying the oppsite side of the shell. Watch out in the window area,if you spray through the windows baint will fly on the outer green parts of the shell!.
If you aren't sure,tape the windows from the inside.



Make sure you don't forget the sides of the trafo etc.

When this is done turn the model over and spray the outside black.

This is the result for today.



Tomorrow the model will be finished (if nothing goes wrong!). Than letters and red parts on the roof are painted. Also a clear gloss finish is applied. This was done on the first 3037 models.

When this model is done,I'll start a topic about improving a 3054.
I will remove the two ugly screws from the roof,and cut the frame in half! Let me surprise you

Bart

Thanks!
I have never seen a new one,I am not old enough.

Bart

Hi Bart,

Like I've said before absolutely beautiful.As are your pictures [:p]
Better than a book on restauration!

Kind regards
Guus

Last update!

Model is almost finished. The only things still to do is the silver lining at the front,roof and lettering.

When silver lining at the fron is done put a little tope over the lights to prevent them from getting silver.



Then paint the line using the side of your brush. This way you won't accidentaly paint the top of the step.



Red lines on the roof are done the same way.

When lettering is done it is adviced to tape the area surrounding the letters.
Letters are done by tapping with a brush and rather thin paint. Apply paint to the brush and use a piece of paper to remove paint that is to much from the brush. Move the brush towards you on the paper without turning it around. This way the brush becomes flat for easy tapping.



You can either use nitropaint or an enamel (humbrol). The advantage of nitro is it,s durability and fast drying. An enamel can be removed, using white spirit, when something goes wrong.

Finally clearcoat is applied.
After the lettering wash all grease from your fingers of,using mild soap and a soft brush.



Then make sure the model is completely dry and clean. Also check your airbrush,especially when you sprayed a metallic paint before. It should be very clean.

Spraying the clear is done the same way as the green or black. Inside first,and then the outside going from left to right,top to bottom etc.

After this all parts are put back on again. When installing the buffers,put some oil in the mounting holes. This will help installing them. Also put a piece of plastic over them when tapping them in.

To finish this topic a picture of the completed 3037. Hope you enjoyed it.



Bart

Incredible. Congratulations!

You ALWAYS surprise us....

I see you haven't painted the little writings under the cabins... whew... I was much worried about it...

excellent ! thanks also for all the extra time it takes to take the pictures along the way...

EXCELLENT thread and a beautiful work! Thanks (I totally missed this one last year [:I])