Good! 37637 white led mystery solved. Underscoring the notion that bulbs do have the right colour

Back to the 3/6:
Here is my 3/6 family. Left to right: 10460, 10432, 10453, 10426 and 10406.
Or in M* terms: 3151, 3167, 3169, 37510, and 29516 (aka 3167.1).

Maybe, a 3351/10439 is still out somewhere to be adopted in the future.



Unfortunately, the newborn of the family has an inborn mental disorder: the new 37510, which has the new Märklin/ESU Lokpilot Lite decoder, suffers from an extreme form of Lokpilot's Alzheimer.
It is extremely sensitive to power drops, and it stalls and jumps more than any loc. Actually, my K test track is reasonably clean, and I have never seen this problem with any of my 6090x locs, and neither with my Lokpilot Classic-equiped one.

That's why the 37510 still is on its elevated roller test stand in the picture, preventing it from jumping off the table when resuming at full speed after a power drop at low speed. I have run it in for about 12h now, and on the test stand, it behaves well. Back on the track, no improvement though. Next weekend, I'll open it and check the soldering and ground wiring. If unsuccessful, the LP may need a large buffering capacitor.

Hi Adrian,

The pictures are a bit bad, since my camera is not quite state of the art anymore, or I'm not much of a photographer, your pick.

The controller board 606218 comes with most of the wiring in place. You should remove one of the two brown ground wires shunted together at solder pad 4 of the upper right area of the photo below. You must also remove the switch selector (catenary/slider) that is included in this board and shunt two of the pads (seen in the centre of the pic below). I decided to shunt pads left and middle (referred to the photo below) to use the upper power input solder pad. Otherwise you may shunt right and middle and use the larger rectangular solder pad for power input.



This is the controller board 606218, double-taped to the back of the decoder.

Wiring:

Lower left of the picture, four vertically aligned solder pads, from down to up:

- Grey to the front LED PCB;
- Yellow to the front LED PCB;
- Brown/yellow to the front LED PCB;
- Orange to the front LED PCB.

Upper left of the picture, four vertically aligned solder pads, from down to up:

- Orange to the rear LED PCB.
- Brown/yellow to the front LED PCB;
- Grey to the front LED PCB;
- Yellow to the front LED PCB.

Upper right of the picture, five horizontally aligned solder pads, (4 and 5 are actually shunted together) from left to right:

1 - Red power input, coming from the original power source selector of the locomotive (catenary or slider);
2 - Decoder function wire, your choice of F1 or F2;
3 - Decoder violet wire;
4 - Chassis ground brown wire;
5 - Decoder ground brown wire.

Lower right of the picture, four vertically aligned solder pads, from down to up:

- Decoder grey wire;
- Decoder yellow wire;
- Decoder orange wire;



This is the rear LED PCB, to show you its orientation, tapered side down. True for rear and front.



This is to show how the 606217 is inserted in the 214033 socket. The lower studs of the 606217 fit in the socket.



This is to show you how the 214033 socket is installed in chassis.

Wiring for the LED PCBs:

Looking from the back of the PCB:

1 2

3 4

1 - Brown-yellow coming from the controller board;

2 - Orange coming from the controller board;

3 - Yellow coming from the controller board;

4 - Grey coming from the controller board.

Note that now you have only three decoder wires that you didn't solder to the controller board: motor green and blue and the remaining function output.

I'm considering several options for this: cab lighting, modern style telexes or a whistle, removed from my BR18.4 (to upgrade to loksound...). This last option requires a somewhat large board, which may not fit, maybe snugged against the roof.

Hope this helps. Any doubt, just drop me an email it's in my profile.

Have fun!

Luis