Hi eric,

A list for you. As you can see, there are maybe 9 large locos and the rest are all small.
Cat Qty
3000 2 FCM
3003 1 FCM
3021 1 FCM
3030 1 FCM
3037 1 DRUM
3039 1 DRUM
3050 1 FCM
3054 1 FCM
3047 1 FCM
3085 1 DRUM
3087 3 FCM
3092 1 FCM
3095 1 FCM
3111 1 FCM

Thanks for comments.

Alan


You have a very nice collection including some classics such as the 3021, 3047 and the 3050. I do not agree with haxpet's suggestion as replacing them and keeping the old would be very expensive. I would rather have the old ones anyway. I think Ray is right. Start small and build up. You can download the ESU LokPilot 3.0 manual from the ESU site in English. Starting on page 10 are the instructions for installation and on page 13 a wiring diagram for marklin type motors.
By the way, your Loks have drum motors as well as large flat commutator and small flat commutator motors. Each of the three types take a different magnet.
Eric

If you have an older locomotive with a 3 pole motor that has seen a few miles at what point to you consider the armature worn out? Are there any ways of refurbishing or cleaning up an old armature? I am asking this to help with deciding whether to upgrade an old motor to 5 pole or just clean it up maybe replace a 3 pole armature if it's really bad.

Thanks

Darren

Thanks for all the feedback. I decided to wait a few days so that I could get as many views as possible

It would seem that the consensus is that the ESU Lokpilot 3 would appear to be the best choice

Nobody seems to have any views on the Uhlenbrock or the Marklin 66032 (except that they seem to be too expensive). Never used Uhlenbrock, sorry. The 66032 is a delta decoder. It is good if you don't want to change the field magnet, but the running will not be brilliant.

I have taken a looksee at the ESU website and it states that the decoder-magnet 'bundles' are for delta locos. Does that mean that I cannot use them on my pure analog locos? You can use them perfectly well on analogue locos.

I have tried to look at the Marklin database and correlate the part numbers with the ESU website. I must admit that I am having a bit of difficulty in getting them to agree.

To this end, I have decided that I will dip my toe in the water with one of my locos, namely my 3021 - V200 as it has shed-loads of room inside.

Therefore, can anyone confirm the ESU part numbers that I need for conversion. Am I right in saying that I need a decoder and a permanent magnet, is that right? Do I keep my old 3 pole armature or should I consider the 5 pole option keep the 3 pole. If so, what is that number? The 3021 has a LFCM motor, so you need the ESU kit for this type of motor. These are the magnet types:
ESU HAMO magnets for use with existing AC motors

ESU 51960 Permanent magnet like Marklin 220560, (LFCM)
ESU 51961 Permanent magnet like Marklin 220450, (SFCM)
ESU 51962 Permanent magnet like Marklin 235690, (DCM)

and these are the ESU sets:
Item no. Description
52630 LokPilot digital set 1, with LokPilot V3.0 52610, permanent magnet 51960, choke coils
52631 LokPilot digital set 2, with LokPilot V3.0 52610, permanent magnet 51961, choke coils
52632 LokPilot digital set 3, with LokPilot V3.0 52610, permanent magnet 51962, choke coils


so the correct set for a LFCM motor is 52630

Apologies for what might be a load of dull, stupid questions, but I do not want to make any expensive mistakes Thanks in advance. Alan.

Well folks, it has finally arrived. While waiting for it, I printed off and studied the ESU documentation on how to do the conversion. Boy, did I get confused. I am not an electronics expert. Well, this is now a plea for help

I assume that, as my 3021 is quite old, I will need to cut off the interface plug on the end of the decoder? Yes

It says that I need to cut all the wiring in the loco. Ok, I can understand that.

Also, I see that from the ESU documentation, the Marklin wiring convention is different to ESU. Well, I have checked all 17 of my analog locos and they all have black wiring throughout. So, when did Marklin adopt this colour convention? The colours came in with digital. All older analogue locos have black wiring

Looking at the ESU diagrams, I understand the following (colours as Marklin/ESU):
Connect the (red/red) wire to the centre pickup shoe,
Connect the (brown/black) wire to the outside rails,
Connect the (blue/orange) wire to the left motor terminal,
Connect the (green/grey) wire to the right motor terminal.

This is where I really get confused.

It talks about the Marklin 5 pole High Performance Drive and three anti-interference capacitors. I do not have these. I have a LFCM. Do I cut these two which are connected directly to the motor leads and the the motor housing. The kit I ordered has come with two 'choke coils'. Aren't these what I have been told to cut out in the first place? If not, do I need to fit them and where? Cut off all the capacitors and the big in-line choke. Add the two supplied chokes between the blue (green) wire and the motor

Where is the original Marklin (common rectified track voltage) orange/blue wire. I don't know as mine are all bl**dy black :-(( There isn't one. You can ignore that bit.

My light bulbs are the original incandescent style. What are the rating of these and are they ok to use? They will glow a bit bright, but are OK to use.

Paragraph 6.7.2 of the ESU documentation talks about Connecting the light outputs as well as AUX1 and AUX2. Surely, to make the lights work, I just:

Connect the (grey/white) wire to the bulb at the front of the loco? Yes
Connect the (yellow/yellow) wire to the bulb at the rear of the loco? Yes

What does it mean by 'function output headlights' and 'function output rearlights'? What do I do with the (brown/red///green) and (brown/green///violet) wires of the AUX1 and AUX2. You won't need these. Trim them short and make sure they can't short circuit on the body or frame.

What are AUX1 & AUX2 ? These are for extra functions, like smoke, sound, interior lights, etc. You won't need them for a simple conversion.

The documentation then starts rabbiting on about DC and cordless motors. What are mine?? Once you have installed the new permanent magnet in place of the electric field magnet, your motor is a DC motor.

Please bear with me. I know that, to those of you who have done it many times before, it will seem plain sailing. To me and others like me who have not done this before, it is not well explained. No doubt, I shall receive plenty of advice, possibly even from those of you who had all black wiring inside their locos. I look forward to doing my next loco once I have performed this one.

Thanks in anticipation. Alan

Just tried something else and managed to get one of the lights to shine brightly, albeit with a bit of a flicker. Any thoughts.

Alan:

If you used the original lights with the chassis ground, they will flicker slightly.

My most common mistake when I convert a loco is to forget to put the brushes back in....the motor will not turn without brushes. You wouldn't believe the number of tomes I have one that and gone through and rechecked the wiring before it dawned on me. If the brushes are in, the motor should turn. Recheck the motor wiring.

Programming the decoder is another topic altogether and depends on what controller you have. Get it running first then you will be ready to take the next step.

Goofy, that thought has crossed my mind :-((

Thomas, answers to your questions -

The 3021 is on the track alone.

You say that the lights function - wrong, they are only extremely dim as though only a trickle of current is being received,

The ABV and light icons appear on the MS and can be operated. However, nothing actually happens with the lights.

But as you say, as the ABV also shows up on the MS, this would appear to show the decoder is operating.
When you throttle up does the motor make any noise at all - no noise, no movement as though it is binding?

Did you stay with the original 3 pole motor? Yes.

Perhaps try backing off the screws for the motor shield one or two turns? done - makes no difference.

Looking at the parts pdf. from M* there are two ceramic disc capacitors on the motor shield. You removed both? Not just the one to the left of the brushes? Yes, the one at the side and the one in the middle.