Croc help needed - set 26730 - Need to open and undo hack job Share  Email this topic  LinkBack Topic URL  Retweet this Topic  Share Topic on Google+  Like this Topic  Share on Facebook  Digg this Topic  Reddit this Topic  Share on Tumblr Options  Watch this topic  Print this topic View » Normal Threaded

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hvc		#1 Posted : 27 May 2014 13:41:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Hi all, I was excited to receive this Swiss croc set in the mail: http://www.ebay.com/itm/...-set-26730-/191155381581 Despite the description, it has clearly been used, although it is in good condition. However, the locomotive (which is supposed to be digital), races at full speed on my CS2-powered layout - ie it is actually analogue. My first thought was that someone has swapped in a different locomotive. However, I took the top off the centre section, and it looks like someone has messed with the wiring in what was a digital loco. Here are some photos: Looks like orange and brown have been joined? ... https://imageshack.com/i/n7ab97oj Two wires look like they've been cut: https://imageshack.com/i/nhljjmtj And here's a shot of the motor from the other side: https://imageshack.com/i/nbceigj So I wanted to remove the top of the nose section to find out what kind of decoder/board is hiding under there, which means I need to learn the arcane technique of crocodile nose-removal. I've got the manual, but can't understand what I have to do. I think I have to bend the plastic just behind the jackshaft inwards, while I pull up on the body https://imageshack.com/i/nfogan7j So two questions: Can anyone tell me how the wiring is supposed to go? How do I get the cover off? Thanks for any help! Herman Edited by user 28 May 2014 01:13:00(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
		- Herman
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hvc		#2 Posted : 27 May 2014 13:52:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Webmaster - not sure why images are not appearing above? (I'm sure I'm doing something wrong!). Thanks webmaster - images were too large - have edited above post and replaced with smaller ones Herman Edited by user 28 May 2014 01:14:50(UTC)  | Reason: Images fixed
		- Herman
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biedmatt		#3 Posted : 27 May 2014 13:59:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		If it is the metal Be 6/8 III version like a 3356 and forward, then once you remove the center section, you must push on the plastic square area around the (prototype's) motor output on both sides and then the nose pivots upward toward the front of the loko. There is a catch molded into the plastic part on both sides that hooks to the inside of the nose. These hooks must be pressed in, releasing the nose to pivot up. Turn it over and look underneath and you will see the catch. In this picture, picked from the internet, not one of my conversions, (turns out it is Svein's, AKA Intruder): You can see the catch. It is just by the (prototype's) output. On the left side nose, it is just below the wires as they leave the decoder, between the motor output and the second set of driving wheels. Edited by user 29 May 2014 14:01:49(UTC)  | Reason: Duh, can't tell left from right
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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hvc		#4 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:12:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Thanks! Yes, it has a metal body, and is the same as a 3356/3756. Is the catch only on one side of the loco? Herman
		- Herman
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steventrain		#5 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:12:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,606 Location: United Kingdom		See other topic to removed body nose >3356 Body removed<
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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biedmatt		#6 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:13:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		Originally Posted by: hvc Thanks! Yes, it has a metal body, and is the same as a 3356/3756. Is the catch only on one side of the loco? Herman Catch is on both sides of each nose. I found if you release one and lift that side once released, it will stay open until you release the other side.
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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river6109		#7 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:18:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,728 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Herman, there could be several issues why your pictures don't appear, it could be the wrong link or the size of the picture is too large. You've got the right idea about the front coming off, just give it a little push and it should separate from the frame. some one has had its fingers in it but to tell you what should be where is difficult to say. you should look at the digital diagram if they still have these and see how the whole motor/lights are connected to the decoder. the orange wire is a neutral DC wire and should not be connected with a brown wire but than again it depends where the brown wire is coming or is going to. having 2 wires completely cut is not original, I would like to see more photos from the loco light fittings, decoder and if possible to get a better view of the wires. In any case when you got all the pictures together I can draw up a wiring diagram for your loco, it could mean you may need new wires but these are available at Jaycar. regards., John
		https://www.youtube.com/river6109 https://www.youtube.com/6109river 5 years in Destruction mode 50 years in Repairing mode
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hvc		#8 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:41:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: biedmatt Originally Posted by: hvc Thanks! Yes, it has a metal body, and is the same as a 3356/3756. Is the catch only on one side of the loco? Herman Catch is on both sides of each nose. I found if you release one and lift that side once released, it will stay open until you release the other side. Success, got the nose off! (Was stuck pretty hard). Underneath I'm greeted by electrical tape and a mess of wires - obviously not original. Bed time now, but tomorrow I'll take some pictures and post them. Thanks for your help! Herman
		- Herman
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hvc		#9 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:44:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: river6109 the orange wire is a neutral DC wire and should not be connected with a brown wire but than again it depends where the brown wire is coming or is going to. having 2 wires completely cut is not original, I would like to see more photos from the loco light fittings, decoder and if possible to get a better view of the wires. In any case when you got all the pictures together I can draw up a wiring diagram for your loco, it could mean you may need new wires but these are available at Jaycar. regards., John Thanks for the offer! (This really is a wonderful forum). Tomorrow I'll post photos. Herman
		- Herman
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intruder		#10 Posted : 27 May 2014 14:45:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hi This is how I normally remove the nose parts of my crocodilles, by applying some controlled force with my index fingers: I find it vey difficult to press in the plastic hooks and lift the body at the same time. This is my 39561
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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3 users liked this useful post by intruder		biedmatt, xxup, seatrains
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foumaro		#11 Posted : 27 May 2014 16:03:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 4,420 Location: Attiki Athens Greece		This set prodused in two vesions,28730 lovomotive equiped with delta decoder and 26730 with digital decoder.
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intruder		#12 Posted : 27 May 2014 16:55:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		foumaro wrote: This set prodused in two vesions,28730 lovomotive equiped with delta decoder and 26730 with digital decoder. Yes, and 28730 had the old style Märklin drum collector motor, the 26730 had a 5* HLA motor, as in Herman's photos. The light in the 26730 was connected as in the grey rectangles in my diagram. Thr upper snd lower light and the 1N4148 diode is to make the swiss ight change. The red LED is added by me, forget about the relays. the gray and yellow wires may be connected directly to the bulb holders. For sll details about my conversion with a Märklin mfx decoder see26730 conversion
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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5HorizonsRR		#13 Posted : 27 May 2014 18:54:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,865 Location: CA, USA		I didn't look in the images, but if the decoder is set to zero it will fly and run like an analogue locomotive. Worth checking
		SBB Era 2-5
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EMD_GP7		#14 Posted : 27 May 2014 22:24:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/11/2010(UTC) Posts: 192 Location: U.K. Midlands		Hi. Here's a couple of photos of my 26730 set Croc. I can confirm that it is of metal construction and digital control. The set should be factory weathered exept for one wagon ! I couldn't see your photos as my browser does not show them. Hope this helps. Regards, Colin.
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Dave Banks		#15 Posted : 28 May 2014 00:11:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,026 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Herman, try setting all your dip switches to Off & then putting 4 & 6 to on. That gives you Digital address 68 & what that loco should have. You can set the take off & slow down with the turning of one of the two white screws know as potentiometers & the other one gives you full or low speed. Set them at the 12 "o" Clock mark to start with & go from there. That decoder would be FX type & only have probably 14 to 27 speedsteps but it is a digital decoder & a motorola type I think. My two cents worth. Have fun.
		D.A.Banks
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hvc		#16 Posted : 28 May 2014 00:55:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: intruder Hi This is how I normally remove the nose parts of my crocodilles, by applying some controlled force with my index fingers: I find it vey difficult to press in the plastic hooks and lift the body at the same time. This is my 39561 Good tip and excellent photo! Exactly my difficulty in getting the cover to come off. Looking at the other photos people have posted it is very clear that my croc has been retrofiitted with a later model decoder - there is no fixed circuit board and no dip switches, but instead a smaller decoder in black heat-shrink which has been taped into the body. So now the problem becomes how to diagnose the fault. I'm guessing it will mean a new decoder. I'm sad that the loco isn't original, but I'd still rather get it running than send it back. I really love the look of both the loco and the wagons. At first the digitally controlled flashing light on the rear wagon didn't work either, but some cleaning fixed that. When I get home from work this evening I'll take some more photos with both covers off. Thanks to everyone for the help! Herman
		- Herman
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Bigdaddynz		#17 Posted : 28 May 2014 02:45:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,665 Location: New Zealand		You may have a Marklin 60760 decoder if the decoder is inside some black heatshrink. If you can post a photo of the decoder and the wires coming out of the decoder, that would be helpful for us to identify the decoder (Marklin use different coloured wires to those that ESU use, so the wire colours should help to identify whether you have a Marklin or ESU decoder, or another manufacturer). You can download the 60760 manual from the link given on the ajckids website - http://www.ajckids.com/products/Marklin/60760
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hvc		#18 Posted : 28 May 2014 13:00:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		OK, here's the butchered croc after a double nose-ectomy... Its obvious a later decoder has been retro fitted: and here's the other side of the decoder: Again, if I put this loco on the (digital) track, it just races full speed. Suggestions about to where to go next?
		- Herman
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Iamnotthecrazyone		#19 Posted : 28 May 2014 13:11:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,044		You might have a blown decoder, If someone identifies the decoder you might want to recheck the cables go to the right places. If you don't want to waste a lot of time and you are prepared to spend money, I would get a new decoder. You'll be looking at about AUD$50-60 for a ESU and $70-$80 for a lenz but you will have a current decoder with all the benefits that it implies.
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biedmatt		#20 Posted : 28 May 2014 13:26:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		Originally Posted by: hvc Butchered is right. It looks like they used something as delicate as a chainsaw to rework the existing wiring. For the life of me, I can't understand why people can't take the new decoder wires back to the origin and not splice the wires. Some loops of shrink tube can be used to bundle it all into a nice harness. A few extra minutes can make it look like a factory install instead of a hack job. Edit: When I sold the stuff that wasn't era 3 a year ago, I made sure to open up those lokos I converted. I wanted the bidders to see what they were getting inside too.
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Bigdaddynz		#21 Posted : 28 May 2014 13:27:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,665 Location: New Zealand		Whoever wired that up did a real butcher's job on it - seems they did not know how to use a soldering iron or have any heatshrink. The decoder has the Marklin colour scheme for the wires, so I'm guessing it is a 60760 decoder. Check the manual link I posted, that will tell you how it should be wired. Red - Power pickup - should be wired to the power crossover switch (switches between catenary and the pickup shoe) Brown - Ground - should be connected to the ground point on the loco Green and Blue - these are the motor connections and should be connected to the chokes you see in your picture (look like resistors). Grey - Front light - connects to one of the pins on the front light Yellow - Rear light - connects to one of the pins on the rear light Orange - Return for the front and rear lights. You need to connect 2 separate orange wires to the orange wire, and feed one to the 2nd pin on the front light and the other to the 2nd pin on the rear light. You should use a small piece of 2mm heatshrink to cover any soldered wire connection joins to prevent them shorting - electrical tape is no good, it can come off. If the loco goes reverse when the decoder indicates forward, just reverse the green and blue wire connections to the motor.
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biedmatt		#22 Posted : 28 May 2014 13:58:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		If it's a blown decoder, I can't understand how that could happen with such a fine installation. Some folks need to put the weapon (soldering iron) down and step away. "A man has got to know his limitations." -Harry Callahan
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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river6109		#23 Posted : 29 May 2014 02:39:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,728 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		you people just don't get it, the whole purpose of this exercise was, to remove a 60901 decoder from the loco and replace it with a 60760 and use the 60901 decoder somewhere else and who ever buys the loco has to work it out themselves what's going on. I don't know what the retail price for this set is but it may be still cheap enough to replace the decoder, again. I bought a loco once and it said it was delta, when I got it it had a sound decoder and 5 pole high efficiency motor in it, some dealers get 2nd hand stuff in, look at the box catalogue number and sell it as that. I don't know how anybody can complain about it, you've got 2 extra brown wires out of it plus you got plenty wires over when you rewire another loco. So long the set is an a good nick (as mentioned above) wouldn't worry too much about it. the loco (Roco Rh 1670) I just bought was a bit of a risk but I've researched before hand what I could expect and only the road number and slider gave it away and from there on I was alone with my assumption, I know its not the same scenario but I could have bought something that was produced back in the 80's but as my luck struck it was a new or newer production model. Always look at the bright side in life. its always the same explanation from sellers: bought from a collection, as new but don't know whether its running, I like the sellers identity: chances r good , chances are good, you'll get a loco which has been severely tampered with, this type of description, you're lucky it had a motor and decoder in it this loco in question deserves a better decoder anyhow. John
		https://www.youtube.com/river6109 https://www.youtube.com/6109river 5 years in Destruction mode 50 years in Repairing mode
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hvc		#24 Posted : 29 May 2014 03:31:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		I contacted the seller and he gave me $50 back, so between that and the shipping I paid about $US400 for actual set, which isn't too bad (although I would have preferred original!). So, now its just a matter of picking a new decoder... Herman
		- Herman
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biedmatt		#25 Posted : 29 May 2014 03:56:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		I do not mean to toot my own horn, but it really takes just a little more effort to make conversions that look like this: https://www.marklin-user...-upgrade.aspx#post442863 All you need to do, is care.
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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mike c		#26 Posted : 29 May 2014 04:08:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 7,899 Location: Montreal, QC		Your best bet would probably be to install an ESU mfx V.4. You will likely have to modify the wiring of the lights as well as the 26730 in it's original design had an issue with flickering lights in digital operation. The ground wire of the lights must be connected to the decoder instead of the the chassis. Other than that, the loco in the photos seems to be prepared for the installation of a modern decoder, but you may want to have this done by a professional. As you are in Australia, perhaps John (River6109) can point you in the right direction. I also have a problem with my 26730 and need to send it for service as one of the drive wheels is gummed up. Regards Mike C
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Iamnotthecrazyone		#27 Posted : 29 May 2014 04:13:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,044		Originally Posted by: hvc I contacted the seller and he gave me $50 back, so between that and the shipping I paid about $US400 for actual set, which isn't too bad (although I would have preferred original!). So, now its just a matter of picking a new decoder... Herman Good to hear that at least it will cover most of the cost of a new decoder, I am not too keen on some of the newer cheap Marklin mainly because of the lower current handling, 800mA for the motor, I like ESU.
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Iamnotthecrazyone		#28 Posted : 29 May 2014 04:20:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,044		Just a thought, that may be worth keeping in mind. Some people change decoders because they feel like which is fine and could well be the case here. But... I am just wondering, for some reason the decoder on that loco was replaced and now you have another decoder which is bad. It'll be worth spending some time checking that the motor and brushes are good and there isn't anything sucking too much current or you might blow the new decoder as well.
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hvc		#29 Posted : 29 May 2014 06:28:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Just a thought, that may be worth keeping in mind. Some people change decoders because they feel like which is fine and could well be the case here. But... I am just wondering, for some reason the decoder on that loco was replaced and now you have another decoder which is bad. It'll be worth spending some time checking that the motor and brushes are good and there isn't anything sucking too much current or you might blow the new decoder as well. That's a good thought. On inspection it looks OK (and the motor turns full speed when holding the slider and contact wheels on track). However, the non-driven wheels are *very* stiff to turn. I'm wondering if the high load of dragging these around could burn out a decoder? In any case, I think I need to find someone who can give it a service and put a new decoder in. I'm a rank amateur in that department, and it is too nice a locomotive to mess up. Herman
		- Herman
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hvc		#30 Posted : 29 May 2014 06:50:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: mike c ...but you may want to have this done by a professional. As you are in Australia, perhaps John (River6109) can point you in the right direction. Do you have a suggestion for me, John? Herman
		- Herman
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Iamnotthecrazyone		#31 Posted : 29 May 2014 09:22:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,044		Originally Posted by: hvc Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Just a thought, that may be worth keeping in mind. Some people change decoders because they feel like which is fine and could well be the case here. But... I am just wondering, for some reason the decoder on that loco was replaced and now you have another decoder which is bad. It'll be worth spending some time checking that the motor and brushes are good and there isn't anything sucking too much current or you might blow the new decoder as well. That's a good thought. On inspection it looks OK (and the motor turns full speed when holding the slider and contact wheels on track). However, the non-driven wheels are *very* stiff to turn. I'm wondering if the high load of dragging these around could burn out a decoder? In any case, I think I need to find someone who can give it a service and put a new decoder in. I'm a rank amateur in that department, and it is too nice a locomotive to mess up. Herman It is quite possible that a heavy load have placed undue stress on the motor and the decoder. Despite the messy installation job, if two decoders went bad it won't hurt measuring how much current the motor is taking and check the issue with the stiffness which is probably harden up oil in a too new loco for it's own good. If that's the case the other end of the loco might not be turning as freely as it should. It'll be a good idea not to force the wheels by hand as if it is too hard to turn them they may come off loose from the axle.
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hvc		#32 Posted : 29 May 2014 09:30:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Meanwhile, might as well taken the wagons for a test run! Here's a video of a consist with 37565 double croc (12 axles powered - I need a hill!) Wagons from 26591 Wagons from 26730 Special additions for Ian and my cat.
		- Herman
6 users liked this useful post by hvc		Janne75, biedmatt, steventrain, MikeR, intruder, Shamu
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hvc		#33 Posted : 29 May 2014 09:40:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		PS - No Era Police please! The cat is correct for Era II or III.
		- Herman
3 users liked this useful post by hvc		Iamnotthecrazyone, Shamu, foumaro
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Iamnotthecrazyone		#34 Posted : 29 May 2014 09:49:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,044		Nice lego.
1 user liked this useful post by Iamnotthecrazyone		hvc
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Shamu		#35 Posted : 29 May 2014 10:21:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		Originally Posted by: hvc PS - No Era Police please! The cat is correct for Era II or III. HUUMMMM, I don't know about that, far to mellow for Era 2/3........... more like a 4 to me
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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biedmatt		#36 Posted : 29 May 2014 13:41:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		If this loko does not have the red marker lights for the bottom right lamp, then it would be a straight forward conversion. If it does have the red marker, then you would need to switch the power for the lower right lamp through relays as Svein has shown in his diagram above. I know this next comment will not be popular with all, but if you are going to invest your own time, or pay someone to do the conversion, then it is worth the extra $10 to buy an ESU decoder. You can do so much more with them then you can M's decoders.
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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steventrain		#37 Posted : 29 May 2014 13:45:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,606 Location: United Kingdom		Excellent video, I like your crocodiles.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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Renato		#38 Posted : 29 May 2014 18:17:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/03/2004(UTC) Posts: 976 Location: Gorizia, Italy		Hi Herman, Nice cat you have ! Thank you for the video. Cheers Renato
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mike c		#39 Posted : 29 May 2014 20:52:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 7,899 Location: Montreal, QC		Pretty sure that the decoder was probably swapped so that the original owner could solve the flickering light issue. It might have turned out to be too much of a project and he decided to sell the set. The lights have to be rewired so that the return is connected to the decoder and not via the chassis of the locomotive. Additionally, as this set originally came with a Maerklin decoder, other modifications might be required for the loco to work with an ESU/Zimo type decoder. Any Aussie or NZ members know of good places who do conversions down under? In the States there is Helmut's and a few other places. In Europe there is Jacques Vuyes and of course Maerklin Service. Regards Mike C
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Shamu		#40 Posted : 30 May 2014 04:59:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,068 Location: In a building site in Yeppoon		Short of bundling it off to John in WA the only people I can think of that would do the work would be Train Trader at Pymble in Sydney. They specialise in Marklin. They did 2 of my Fleischmann loco's a few years back although the turnaround was pushing the 3 month mark. In all fairness from memory 1 of the chaps was having serious health issues at the time which threw a spanner in their work schedule. Its best to phone them if in a rush as email reply could be a week or so.
		Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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hvc		#41 Posted : 30 May 2014 14:15:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: Shamu Its best to phone them if in a rush as email reply could be a week or so. Well, I'm hoping to have a decent collection running while I can still enjoy it, so I'm thinking I've got around 30 years left to get it sorted. (Whoever dies with the most Märklin wins!)
		- Herman
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hvc		#42 Posted : 30 May 2014 14:17:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Originally Posted by: Shamu Short of bundling it off to John in WA the only people I can think of that would do the work would be Train Trader at Pymble in Sydney. They specialise in Marklin. Just looked at their web site - can't believe I didn't know about them! Thanks! Herman
		- Herman
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Dave Banks		#43 Posted : 30 May 2014 14:26:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,026 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Herman, you have one other opportunity. Bring it with you when you holiday next on the Gold Coast & it gets done while you wait.
		D.A.Banks
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biedmatt		#44 Posted : 30 May 2014 14:33:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio		Looks to be a simple ball bearing upgrade too. Send it to me if you like. $5 to cover my material cost, plus the decoder and return freight would "Get 'er done".
		Matt Era 3 DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control. With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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hvc		#45 Posted : 01 June 2014 02:39:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 411 Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia		Wow - gents, that's very generous. There's a good possibility of me winding up in the US over the next six months or so... will send you a PM. Herman
		- Herman
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