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Offline Timnomads  
#1 Posted : 17 January 2016 10:37:23(UTC)
Timnomads

Switzerland   
Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 290
Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
Hi All

As promised the video of my Hump Yard.



Comments please

Tim
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Offline ozzman  
#2 Posted : 17 January 2016 11:07:43(UTC)
ozzman

Australia   
Joined: 23/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,828
Location: Sydney, Australia
Hi Tim. Very good! Are you actuating the uncoupler "by eye" (ie when you think a coupling is in the right position), or are you using some form of detection?
Gary
Z Scale
"Never let the prototype get in the way of a good layout"
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Offline Timnomads  
#3 Posted : 17 January 2016 11:17:34(UTC)
Timnomads

Switzerland   
Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 290
Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
Originally Posted by: ozzman Go to Quoted Post
Hi Tim. Very good! Are you actuating the uncoupler "by eye" (ie when you think a coupling is in the right position), or are you using some form of detection?


Hi
I do it by eye
Tim
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Offline biedmatt  
#4 Posted : 17 January 2016 11:22:27(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I would try the uncoupler on the "up" side. M couplers are designed to stay uncoupled while you push a wagen into place, so they will remain uncoupled unless you back up and then pull forward into the coupler. This might allow you to make the hump lower as now you are uncoupling at about 1/2 the hump height. Turn the set around on your hump and let them roll down the other side for a quick test.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline Alsterstreek  
#5 Posted : 17 January 2016 13:41:45(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,664
Location: Hybrid Home
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
I would try the uncoupler on the "up" side.

That also eased uncoupling as the slack is taken out of the couplers while cars are pushed uphill.
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Offline Alsterstreek  
#6 Posted : 17 January 2016 14:20:53(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,664
Location: Hybrid Home
I like :
- The forum member panting when starting the exercise.
- The last sequence with the car-mounted camera documenting the last run up to the stub.
;o)

Now seriously: Well done.
;o)

Edited by user 17 January 2016 17:45:51(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline Danlake  
#7 Posted : 17 January 2016 14:47:02(UTC)
Danlake

New Zealand   
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,571
Excellent video - thanks a lot!

This is now one of my favourite videos of the yearsThumpUp

Brgds Lasse

Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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Offline michelvr  
#8 Posted : 17 January 2016 16:04:45(UTC)
michelvr

Canada   
Joined: 06/07/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,287
Tim all I can say is, "I want that!"

What a fantastic idea!

Elegantly made in it's simplicity and realistically portrayed in it's functionality!

I'll be the second to say after Danlake:

This is now one of my favourite videos of the years!

Michel


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Offline kiwiAlan  
#9 Posted : 17 January 2016 18:03:21(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,067
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
I would try the uncoupler on the "up" side. M couplers are designed to stay uncoupled while you push a wagen into place, so they will remain uncoupled unless you back up and then pull forward into the coupler. This might allow you to make the hump lower as now you are uncoupling at about 1/2 the hump height. Turn the set around on your hump and let them roll down the other side for a quick test.


I would agree with having the uncoupler on the 'up' side. There is another reason for doing this - the couplings, or at least the older Relex ones, were designed so the pin had a bit of a slope away from the adjacent car so it is more difficult for the loop to leap up and uncouple on rough track (this is illustrated in old catalogues from around the 60s). I don't know if this is still the case with the close couplings, but I suspect your wagons would not uncouple so nicely if you had a bunch of the HOBBY range wagons.

However they uncouple a lot easier if the couplings are not under tension, i.e. when the wagon is being pushed up the hump.

But excellent video illustrating the concept.

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Offline petestra  
#10 Posted : 17 January 2016 18:50:43(UTC)
petestra

United States   
Joined: 27/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5,824
Location: Leesburg,VA.USA
Super work, Tim. Bravo! I'd love to make one but alas no room. Cheers, Peter ThumpUp Smile
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Offline lmedberry  
#11 Posted : 17 January 2016 19:34:34(UTC)
lmedberry

United States   
Joined: 14/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 55
Tim,

Very very nice work! You have just the right amount of slope for the travel and speed of the wagons.

Nice space you have as well.

Lance
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Offline Timnomads  
#12 Posted : 18 January 2016 09:16:10(UTC)
Timnomads

Switzerland   
Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 290
Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
I would try the uncoupler on the "up" side. M couplers are designed to stay uncoupled while you push a wagen into place, so they will remain uncoupled unless you back up and then pull forward into the coupler. This might allow you to make the hump lower as now you are uncoupling at about 1/2 the hump height. Turn the set around on your hump and let them roll down the other side for a quick test.


I tried that, knowing in theory marklin couplers stay uncoupled, but the problem is the speed, you have no control over the speed of the descent and it caused numerous very heavy collisions in the yard. In 1:1 scale they have reatarders or a break man to slow the wagon. So to try and preserve the wagons I went for multiple uncouplers on the downward slope.
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Offline Timnomads  
#13 Posted : 26 May 2016 17:08:52(UTC)
Timnomads

Switzerland   
Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 290
Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
Hi All

I have now been getting quite a bit more expierence with the coupling on the slope. I have found that the Marklin close couplers never have aproblem when uncoupling on a downward slope, others do. I have now changed all the couplers on the freight wagons to Marklin close couplers and it all works well although some of the Piko wagons have troubles on the corners and points when close coupled.
Tim
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Offline biedmatt  
#14 Posted : 26 May 2016 22:03:08(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Originally Posted by: Timnomads Go to Quoted Post
Hi All

...although some of the Piko wagons have troubles on the corners and points when close coupled.
Tim


Maybe Roco couplers are the solution.

https://www.marklin-user...lose-couplers#post514398

Edit: Tom's blog explains it well. http://blog.mailez.de/eb...-couplers-for-h0-models/
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline ixldoc  
#15 Posted : 26 May 2016 23:56:26(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Tim,
Great display and video. The only problem is... how I can fit one into my layout!
Howard.
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Offline dickinsonj  
#16 Posted : 30 May 2016 14:46:33(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,675
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Thanks for the great video. A working hump classification yard has been on my wish list for a long time.

Yours works very nicely and the video gives me new inspiration for eventually making one of my own.

Cool
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline Alsterstreek  
#17 Posted : 20 December 2016 20:07:46(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,664
Location: Hybrid Home
Had to think of you when I saw this video, a fast-forward view of operations at a Swiss hump yard with mountain view:

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Offline JohnjeanB  
#18 Posted : 28 October 2020 11:37:35(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,078
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: Timnomads Go to Quoted Post

As promised the video of my Hump Yard.
Comments please

Hi Tim
This has been a lot of water under the bridge. Your Marshaling yard is very good and surely has progressed a lot.
I have a marshaling yard that is much smaller but I worked on an automatic detection of the couplings to activate the decoupler by an optical gate I made myself
Here is how it looks
BarriereOptique Light.png
A standard phototransistor is connected to the entry of an S88 and the zero (upside down T) and the Infra Red diode is near the rail.
The photo-transistor is mounted on a mast and a little tubing protects it from ambiant light
Here is a video of it

Cheers
Jean






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Offline Timnomads  
#19 Posted : 28 October 2020 12:50:33(UTC)
Timnomads

Switzerland   
Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 290
Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Timnomads Go to Quoted Post

As promised the video of my Hump Yard.
Comments please

Hi Tim
This has been a lot of water under the bridge. Your Marshaling yard is very good and surely has progressed a lot.
I have a marshaling yard that is much smaller but I worked on an automatic detection of the couplings to activate the decoupler by an optical gate I made myself
Here is how it looks
BarriereOptique Light.png
A standard phototransistor is connected to the entry of an S88 and the zero (upside down T) and the Infra Red diode is near the rail.
The photo-transistor is mounted on a mast and a little tubing protects it from ambiant light
Here is a video of it

Cheers
Jean


Hi Jean

That looks great, the trouble I had with only one uncoupling ramp, was to control the speed of the wagons. Different wagons move at different speeds depending on weight, number of wheels and complexity of points they have to pass. In reality computer controlled retarders control this, but as yet I can't find a way to do it at HO level apart from multiple uncoupling ramps. Any way its fun and gives more interest to the layout.

Tim





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Offline JohnjeanB  
#20 Posted : 28 October 2020 13:02:04(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,078
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: Timnomads Go to Quoted Post
That looks great, the trouble I had with only one uncoupling ramp, was to control the speed of the wagons.Different wagons move at different speeds depending on weight, number of wheels and complexity of points they have to pass.In reality computer controlled retarders control this, but as yet I can't find a way to do it at HO level apart from multiple uncoupling ramps.Any way its fun and gives more interest to the layout.

Tim

Hi Tim
Here are my findings
The variations in rolling qualities are certainly an issue. I did some cleaning of the bearings and sorted out some wagons with poor running qualities and also those too heavy (cranes, etc).
Concerning the incline and bumping speed:
- I installed the tracks on adjustable height spacers until rolling was uniform on each track
- foam cylinders where installed on the bumpers to avoid hard collision

Installing computer controlled retarders is attractive and feasible but with mechanical tooling. Speed measurement could be by optical gates.
Not for me because I don't have the mechanical tooling (Milling, Lathes,..) nor the space on my layout
Cheers
Jean




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