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Offline xxup  
#1 Posted : 22 January 2015 08:30:12(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,453
Location: Australia
As soon as I saw the photos of H0's Trix 22947 VSLF loco, I knew that I had to have one. There is a Marklin version, but only from selected Swiss dealers at a very high price. So before the A$ plummeted any further down the sliding slope of financial doom, I ordered one from a dealer in Germany, Modellbahnshop-Lippe. Very professional service and a sensible 21 Euro delivery.

I am guessing that some of you are wondering why a conversion of a Trix loco to three rail warrants its own thread. For most people, it doesn't and the process is simply to remove a plate, move a wire and install a slider. The problem with this approach on a computer driven layout with contact tracks is that the loco will stop on the contact track because the converted loco, generally, is only getting a ground connection from one side of the loco.

So this slightly more complicated approach is for people, like me, who use lots of contact tracks on their layout and have not done the "diode trick" with their S88 units.

Here is the awesome loco.

UserPostedImage

Looking underneath we see the front bogie without a slider. It does have a plate that feeds power to the wheels on one side of the bogie. We need to remove this screw and put it somewhere safe. Not on the edge of your work table where it will fall off and be lost forever! Blushing We also need to keep the plate. Remove the front coupler and the front bogie frame to access the stepped screw that holds the front bogie to the loco.

UserPostedImage

The rear bogie has a contact plate to provide power to one of the wheels on the rear bogie. We are not going to do anything with this now except to note that the wire soldered to the plate is a black colour.

UserPostedImage

This is the contact plate we removed from the front bogie. Remove the copper plate from its insulating section and enlarge the screw hole in the copper plate to 3.5mm. You also need to remove the four tabs from the copper plate. If you intend to convert this back to two rail operation, then it might be a good idea to order a new plate now.

UserPostedImage

If the hole is big enough the stepped screw that holds on the front bogie should fit through the hole.

UserPostedImage

Turn the loco over and cut the black wire that leads to the contact plate on the rear bogie. It is shown with a red arrow in the picture below.

UserPostedImage

Assemble the front bogie. Install the copper plate on top of the bogie ensuring that the contact is made with the back of the wheels. (same side that the plate came from originally). Then install the stepped screw. (optionally to minimise wear on the copper plate, install a steel washer 3.5mm inside diameter and 0.25mm thick on top of the copper plate). Install the plastic housing and the front coupler. Use the original plate screw, a countersunk M2 - easily lost screw, to hold on the 7164 slider.

UserPostedImage

Turn the loco over and solder the cut back wire to the two brown wires on the cantery selection plate. At the red arrow in the picture. Make sure that the rear bogie is able to turn fully and there is no tension on the wire.

UserPostedImage

Before you place the loco on the track, use a multimeter to check that the wheels have a closed circuit left and right side and that there is not direct circuit between the slider and any of the wheels. Place it on the track and let the eCos scan the mFx decoder (or DCC). Success looks like the image below.

UserPostedImage

The loco runs beautifully and is highly recommended.

UserPostedImage

Edited by user 23 January 2015 10:28:16(UTC)  | Reason: Typos and shocking grammar.

Adrian
UserPostedImage
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thanks 9 users liked this useful post by xxup
Offline mihirpadhye  
#2 Posted : 27 July 2015 19:24:50(UTC)
mihirpadhye

India   
Joined: 01/02/2014(UTC)
Posts: 23
Location: Pune
Hello,

Could you please tell me which is the decoder make? I mean is it ESU 21MTC Loksound v4 decoder?

Regards
Mihir
Offline H0  
#3 Posted : 27 July 2015 19:49:06(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,251
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: mihirpadhye Go to Quoted Post
I mean is it ESU 21MTC Loksound v4 decoder?
No, Märklin Homebrew sound decoder, 21mtc.
Supports DC, DCC, mfx. Does not support AC or MM.

According to Trix product database, F0 through F4 can be used with a 6021. Wrong! No reaction with 6021.

Around 2011 Märklin stopped using ESU decoders.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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thanks 1 user liked this useful post by H0
Offline mike c  
#4 Posted : 27 July 2015 20:03:12(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,865
Location: Montreal, QC
Adrian,

Here is one available solution. You can find on ebay.de parts for the Maerklin version or the chassis from an AC model which you can use to complete the conversion:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/M...-3760-usw-/361346614497?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/E...-3674-usw-/111675931411?

Regards

Mike C
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mike c
Offline xxup  
#5 Posted : 28 July 2015 00:59:26(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,453
Location: Australia
Thanks for that Mike.. I have ordered the part..

There was a problem with the conversion where the front bogie would be "steered" by the spring effect of the copper wheel contacts. This meant that it would get caught on the entry guides for a right hand turnout.. If the loco travels the other direction there is no problem.. This new front bogie will fix the problem permanently..
Adrian
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Offline mihirpadhye  
#6 Posted : 28 July 2015 12:57:55(UTC)
mihirpadhye

India   
Joined: 01/02/2014(UTC)
Posts: 23
Location: Pune
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Hi!
Originally Posted by: mihirpadhye Go to Quoted Post
I mean is it ESU 21MTC Loksound v4 decoder?
No, Märklin Homebrew sound decoder, 21mtc.
Supports DC, DCC, mfx. Does not support AC or MM.

According to Trix product database, F0 through F4 can be used with a 6021. Wrong! No reaction with 6021.

Around 2011 Märklin stopped using ESU decoders.


Hi Tom,

Thanks for the answer. I want to add a few extra cab lights. Is it ok to use a ZIMO MX644D (21MTC) decoder by replacing the original?

Regards
Mihir
Offline H0  
#7 Posted : 28 July 2015 23:22:11(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,251
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: mihirpadhye Go to Quoted Post
Is it ok to use a ZIMO MX644D (21MTC) decoder by replacing the original?
Maybe you need MC644C, maybe you need MX644D, maybe both types can be used.

Check the function mapping of the current decoder whether AUX3 or AUX4 are in use. If so, check the decoder whether AUX3/4 are amplified (D) or logic level (C).

Do you have the loco? Do you have a Central Station?
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline mihirpadhye  
#8 Posted : 31 July 2015 19:24:04(UTC)
mihirpadhye

India   
Joined: 01/02/2014(UTC)
Posts: 23
Location: Pune
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: mihirpadhye Go to Quoted Post
Is it ok to use a ZIMO MX644D (21MTC) decoder by replacing the original?
Maybe you need MC644C, maybe you need MX644D, maybe both types can be used.

Check the function mapping of the current decoder whether AUX3 or AUX4 are in use. If so, check the decoder whether AUX3/4 are amplified (D) or logic level (C).

Do you have the loco? Do you have a Central Station?






Hi Tom,

Yes I have the Loco and I have ECos 50200. The Funny thing is I cannot open the loco. I removed the two screws at the bottom and tried to pull it but it wont move a micron. Confused . I just don't understand what am I doing wrong.

Again thanks for your reply. This is my first time opening a Loco and modifying it.

Regards
Mihir
Offline H0  
#9 Posted : 31 July 2015 20:41:26(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,251
Location: DE-NW
IIRC I had to pull pretty hard to open mine. I firmly pulled at shell and truck frames - firmly but carefully not to break anything off. Good luck!
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline xxup  
#10 Posted : 14 November 2015 01:58:32(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,453
Location: Australia
Just to close off this one. I can confirm that the new bogie fixed all of the remaining problems. Smile
Adrian
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