Here's the address:
 
Gaßner Beschriftungen
Jägerstrasse 24
D-82024
Taufkirchen
Germany
 
 
Why ?  
In the article about weathering loks, I mentioned how to disassemble the lok. We'll need to do that here too. In fact the combination of Gaßner and weathering will make our loks into very realistic models!
 
As in the weathering section we need to mask certain areas. Most important are the headlights and the red under the running boards. We can use 'Magic Masker' here, but some good news for those of you who can't obtain it. Use plain white glue instead! It will keep paint off those areas and will also not stick to metal or plastic! :-)) So use either to mask where the  DRG/DB/DR symbol (or 'script') and class/road number will go (side of the cab, tender, smoke box door). We need to keep paint off them so we  have a surface where these markings can stick too.
 
Again, fine and dandy, Herr Brady, but what does all these markings mean? Well Gaßner has excellent instructions on where they go .But for real in-depth explanation on their meaning see:   
http://www.worldrailfans.org/Forum/1998/Jun/22235505.shtml

Gaßner,...applying decals
Everyone knows how to apply decals right? No? Well if we use this simple process, it will be easy and you won't be able to tell the decals from the factory applied paint! :-) We are going to do one side of the lok at a time.

Step 1 - Gloss coat. 
Decals won't adhere or conform to a flat surface. So we
must apply a glossy one so they will stick and look painted on. No need to mask, just airbrush a light coat where the decals will go. Let it dry!

Step 2 - Trim, soak and apply. 
The Gaßner sets have the decal film over the entire surface of the sheet. So we must cut the decals as close as possible to the markings. Use small scissors or a sharp hobby knife to trim.  Soak the decals. After trimming, place the first decal in water. At first it will curl up, then it will flatten back down. Remove from the water and place on a paper towel, soak up the excess water. Apply the decal. First apply a drop of setting solution to where the decal will go. The setting solution will remove any air bubbles and help the decal set to the surface. Place the decal backing paper and all on top of the setting solution. With tweezers and a hobby knife carefully slide the decal off the backing paper, on to the model where the setting solution is. Adjust the decal so it's straight. Take a sponge or bunched up paper towel and press the decal down. Now leave it alone and apply the rest of the decals in the same matter. 
 
Step 3 - Using solvent solutions. 
After about 20 minutes as the decals dry it's time to apply a solvent solution. The solvent solution will actually help dissolve the decals so that it really snuggles down to the surface and give them that painted on look we are after. With a small brush apply the solvent just around the edges of the decals. Capillary action will draw it under the decal. If the decal wrinkles up,... DON'T TOUCH IT!! as it starts to dry it will flatten back down. Again let this dry about 20 minutes, then come back and apply more, after about 2 coats you can literally brush it heavily over the decals. Apply as many coats as want. When the decal really looks painted on, let them dry over night!
 
Step 4 - Flat finish.
The next day when the decal are completely dry. Load up the
airbrush with a flat (matte) finish and coat the decals. Don't skimp, lay it in on. This step will protect the decals from future handling and weathering.

What to do next ? - More details.
Now that we have finished applying all the decals to the lok, it's time to paint and glue on the metal markings to the lok. These metal markings are (like the prototype) brass and are held in a thin matrix in the sets. First we have to paint them to match the lok color. I lightly tape the matrix to a piece of cardboard. Load up the airbrush with Floquil's engine black (or what ever Black you use) and give it a good spray. When dry to the touch, remove form the cardboard and be careful not to bend it! Let it dry for at least a few days (tough I know :-) .  Next, use some very fine grit sandpaper(400 or greater) and carefully sand the metal markings. What this will do will to remove the paint to the raised part of the markings and bring out the lettering. Go slow and careful as we again don't want to bend these thin metal markings. We also want to sand the back (unpainted) part of these markings. This will give these areas some 'tooth' so the glue will hold better.
 
How's it looking? Good? Ok, the tricky part, glue these markings to the lok. Like the decals, we want to take our time and only do one side of the lok at a time (hey I didn't say this a one day project! :-). With a new sharp hobby knife, carefully cut the markings from the matrix. Remove any masking agent you placed on the lok. Place a small amount of glue where the marking will go [I have used Faller expert, or epoxy.  Next using tweezers pick up the marking and place it. With the knife position it and press it onto the surface. Give it a few minutes to dry. Then do the next....
 
Some of the markings are tiny, so place just the minimum amount of glue. For the smallest markings (Bw, BD) I will place the glue on the markings, then use a paper towel to wick away the excess. After one side is complete and dried, fire up the airbrush with some flat (matte) finish and seal the markings, just like the decals. This is so your hands won't accidentally lift off the markings. That's it!  Now go weather the lok :-)) . Then reassemble and place it next to a factory lettered, clean lok........Well??