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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#1 Posted : 02 April 2014 11:12:19(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Hello,
I will show my little crafting projects I did with my Märklin railway models.

!CAUTION! All these modifications with electrolytic capacitors are for pure digital usage only. Analog usage is not allowed with these modifications or You should add a switch to switch off the capacitor for analog usage and/or use 63V capacitors! !CAUTION!

Starting with my latest LED illumination of my double stack waggons:

For the illumination of my passenger waggons, I use LED stripes, as they can be bought very cheap from Taiwan or China directly by Amazon or eBay. For this project, I used cold white coloured LED stripes. They look quite modern in this waggon.

To illuminate not only the seat areas but also the entry area of each waggon, I split the stripes for the upper deck into 3 parts. One with 3 LEDs for each entry area and one with 9 LEDs for the upper deck seats area. The lower deck is illuminated with one stripe of 6 LEDs.

UserPostedImage

Here, You can see, that I connected the three parts of the stripes with a short cable, to go around the middle stirrup.

UserPostedImage

The lower deck stripe is connected to the upper deck stripe with a small self made connector:

UserPostedImage

And this is, how it looks finally:

UserPostedImage

First test with a 9V battery and not completely closed:

UserPostedImage

Now, I connect the power coupler:

UserPostedImage

The power coupler of both ends are connected with a red wire:

UserPostedImage

To buffer the energy, I use here two 470µF elko (electrolytical capacitors), the bridge rectifier is mounted on the elko together with the charge resistor and the dropping resistor:

UserPostedImage

Here again a little plug connector:

UserPostedImage

The package with the elkon the bridge rectifier and the resisitors is placed here, where it can't be seen from outside:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

And this is how it looks like:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

These are two possible circuit diagrams. I have chosen the second version:

UserPostedImage

R1 = 100 Ohm
R2 = 1.65kOhm
C = 2 x 470µF = 940µF
Bridge Rectifier: SMD DF 005

Regards,
Moritz

Edited by user 06 August 2014 13:19:39(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#2 Posted : 02 April 2014 11:46:37(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Märklin NS 1202 - New frontlighting with LED and red rear light

Next project, I will show, is the Netherlands NS1202. This model has a three point front light and two (unused) rearlights. Märklin modelled the light guide for all five lights, but only the white lights are used.

UserPostedImage

Therefore, I created a circuit board with white-warm LEDs for the head light and red LEDs for the rear light:

UserPostedImage

I mounted a second circuit board on the mounting point for the old analog drive direction switch:
UserPostedImage

The circuit borad contains two plug connectors with three connection points. They are to plug in the head light cables:
UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

I know, the front light for Netherland should be yellow and not white!

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage
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Offline waorb  
#3 Posted : 02 April 2014 18:29:42(UTC)
waorb

Brazil   
Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Brazil

Hello Moritz!

Nice job! Both of them.

The result was beautiful.

I had done a similar job in an ICE 2 that it's not supposed to have lights inside, and was pleasurable to create it from scratch.

Thanks for sharing.

Cheers,

Walter
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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#4 Posted : 02 April 2014 21:06:04(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Hello Walter,
thanks, I will post some more little projects. They all are not very complex and easy to rebuild. But I think, they're helpfull for some of you here in the forum.

Cheers,
Moritz
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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#5 Posted : 03 April 2014 09:00:25(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Ball Bearing for motor shield, gears and gear box:
https://www.marklin-user...r-shield.aspx#post452055
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#6 Posted : 03 April 2014 09:18:31(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
LED interior lightning for ICE 1 (33701)
https://www.marklin-user...1--33701.aspx#post452059
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#7 Posted : 03 April 2014 10:38:38(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
LED interior lightning for Märklin Pendolino BR 610 (37761)
https://www.marklin-user...olino-BR-610--37761.aspx
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline JakDah  
#8 Posted : 03 April 2014 22:37:32(UTC)
JakDah

Denmark   
Joined: 10/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Frederikssund
Hi Moritz,

Very nice. What connectors are you using and where do you purchase them??

Best regards,

Jakob D.
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Offline Hackcell  
#9 Posted : 04 April 2014 06:24:09(UTC)
Hackcell

Costa Rica   
Joined: 21/11/2013(UTC)
Posts: 521
Aswesome job!!
Danilo Jiménez
Union Pacific and DB Cargo H0 models.
Märklin, Brawa, MTH and some Walthers cars (nobody is perfect!)
Pinball machines, jukeboxes and Horses.
Costa Rica, pura vida!!
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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#10 Posted : 04 April 2014 08:03:26(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Originally Posted by: JakDah Go to Quoted Post
Hi Moritz,

Very nice. What connectors are you using and where do you purchase them??

Best regards,

Jakob D.

Hello Jakob,
I use male and female connector strip like those from Conrad:

Präzisions-Buchsenleiste: http://www.conrad.de/ce/...nic-Inhalt-1-St?ref=list

Präzisions-Stiftleiste: http://www.conrad.de/ce/...amp;rt=detview1&rb=2

Then, I cut them and solder the cable to the connectors solder contact. Then I protect at least one of the contacts with shrinking hose for the case, the cable breaks from the solder contact. Finally, I pull a big shrinking hose over the complete connector strip element, so it looks like a plug and the cable solder contact is protected, too.

Moritz

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Offline river6109  
#11 Posted : 04 April 2014 09:08:24(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,926
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Moritz,

When I do my Led alterations I'm trying to use mini connectors so you can separate the wires from the frame and housing but closer to the application. you've used other electronic parts on your double decker carriages, are they for the protection of led's ? C = 2 x 470µF = 940µF,
Bridge Rectifier: SMD DF 005, the recifier is for flicker free led's ?

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#12 Posted : 04 April 2014 11:00:48(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Hello John,

Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
When I do my Led alterations I'm trying to use mini connectors so you can separate the wires from the frame and housing but closer to the application.


First, I wanted to solder the connector to the LED circuit board, but then I realized, that there is not enough space between the LED circuit board and the gear box. Therefore I decided to solder the cable directly onto the LED circuit board and place the connector to the circuit board in the middle of the loko.

Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
you've used other electronic parts on your double decker carriages, are they for the protection of led's ? C = 2 x 470µF = 940µF,
Bridge Rectifier: SMD DF 005, the recifier is for flicker free led's ?


The elektrolytical capacitors (in germany we call it Elko) are to buffer the LED voltage. For LED interior lightning, 470µF or 940µF are quite enough.

In the NS1202 I use a bigger Elko, because this Elko is connected to the Esu LokPilot decoder. It buffers the decoder, motor and the LEDs connected to the decoder. So it should be up to 2.200µF.

The bridge rectifier is necessary in the double decker carriages, because there, I use the direct rail voltage! The rail voltage is digital voltage and must be rectified before it can be used for LED lightning.

See the full circuit plan of my double decker carriages:
UserPostedImage

Moritz


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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#13 Posted : 04 April 2014 22:26:14(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#14 Posted : 04 April 2014 23:02:49(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Märklin E 60 (37562) with bell-armature can motor and buffer elco
https://www.marklin-user...tor-and-buffer-elco.aspx
Offline seatrains  
#15 Posted : 05 April 2014 03:31:27(UTC)
seatrains

United States   
Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 656
Location: Shoreline, WA
Moritz, Excellent Work!ThumpUp
Thom
European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter
4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association
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Offline Renato  
#16 Posted : 05 April 2014 18:46:00(UTC)
Renato

Italy   
Joined: 19/03/2004(UTC)
Posts: 976
Location: Gorizia, Italy
Hi Moritz,

A professional and perfect work !

Cheers

Renato
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Renato
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#17 Posted : 22 April 2014 12:47:21(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Märklin Crocodile (3352) with Ball Bearing and HLA motor
https://www.marklin-user...aring-and-HLA-motor.aspx
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#18 Posted : 22 May 2014 10:56:22(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Märklin Hobby 36xxx - mSD upgrade + buffer capacitor
https://www.marklin-user...e--buffer-capacitor.aspx

Content:
- mSD Sound Decoder and buffer capacitor modification for Märklin Hobby models
- Description of soldering contacts on mtc21
- Experience with mSD decoder with buffer capacitor
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline hxmiesa  
#19 Posted : 23 May 2014 12:17:22(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,349
Location: Spain
Excellent job. Thanks for sharing.
I have very liltle understanding about electronics, so I ask; Doesnt R1 get a bit warm¿?
Also; Is one R2 needed for every LED in the strip?
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#20 Posted : 23 May 2014 13:22:33(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Originally Posted by: hxmiesa Go to Quoted Post
Excellent job. Thanks for sharing.
I have very liltle understanding about electronics, so I ask; Doesnt R1 get a bit warm¿?
Also; Is one R2 needed for every LED in the strip?


Hello Henrik,
if we talk about this picture the lower circuit:
UserPostedImage

then let us calculate:

U = 18V
R = R1 + R2 + R(LED) (I don't know R(LED), therefore we simplify to R(LED)=0 Ohm, worst case)
R = 100 Ohm + 1.650 Ohm = 1.750 Ohm

I (total) = U / R = 18 V / 1.750 Ohm = 0,01029 A = 10,29mA

Remark
I(total) = I(1) + I(2); But when the capacitor is fully loaded, then I(1) = 0A! Therefore, we can calculate with I(total) = I(2) = I !

Now, we continue...

U(R1) = R1 * I = 100 Ohm * 0,01029A = 1,03 V
U(R2) = R2 * I = 1.650 Ohm * 0,01029 = 16,97 V

U = U(R1) + U(R2) = 1,03V + 16,97V = 18V (Yeah, we have done no mistake!)

1st Question
Now, we come to Your question, if R1 will get a bit warm:

P = U * I

P (R1) = U(R1) * I(total) = 1,03V * 0,0103A = 0,01 W !!!

R1 is rated for 0,5 W !

==> We use R1 with 2% of the maximum rated power. It will not become warm!

2nd Question
No, R2 is for the whole LED stripe. On the stripe there are already resistors mounted for each 3 LEDs in one group, but they are not enough, because it will be too bright. Therefore, I use one R2 for the whole stripe.

Regards,
Moritz
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Offline jonquinn  
#21 Posted : 31 May 2014 05:13:21(UTC)
jonquinn


Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,591
Location: Pennsylvania
Thanks for the outstanding post with diagrams and instructions. This is one of the best "how to do it" posts I've seen done here.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by jonquinn
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#22 Posted : 03 June 2014 09:17:09(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Trix V80 (22075) with driver's cabin light
Conversion of a Trix V 80 005 (22075) by using the not documented but existing AUX port, mapped to F1, for a driver's cabin light.
Offline waorb  
#23 Posted : 03 June 2014 16:33:34(UTC)
waorb

Brazil   
Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Brazil
Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365 Go to Quoted Post
Conversion of a Trix V 80 005 (22075) by using the not documented but existing AUX port, mapped to F1, for a driver's cabin light.


Hello Moritz!

Nice job! How did you learned/discovered that 'not used AUX port'?

Cheers,

Walter
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#24 Posted : 03 June 2014 20:34:47(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Originally Posted by: waorb Go to Quoted Post

Nice job! How did you learned/discovered that 'not used AUX port'?

Hello Walter,
the info about the free AUX port came from here: http://www.web-hgh-moba....omotiven#anschl%C3%BCsse

To activate the AUX port, You have only to use the F1 function. In case You use a MS2, You have to assign a function symbol to the F1 button:

UserPostedImage

Now, You can switch on/off the AUX port.

Moritz
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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#25 Posted : 14 June 2014 19:13:32(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Märklin 191 099-1 (3329) - Self made LED circuit board with red rearlights
Perfboard with SMD LED for head lights and rear lights
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#26 Posted : 31 July 2014 08:05:21(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Silence pickup shoe for Märklin MaK locos
How to convert a standard pickup shoe from a Märklin MaK 1206 (37635) into a silence pickup shoe. This conversion is usefull for the following locos:

- 33641
- 33642
- 33645
- 37626
- 37627
- 37630
- 37631
- 37636
- 37641
- 37642
- 37643
- 37644
- 37645
- 37646
- 37647
- 37656
- 37657
- 37658
- 37659
- 37693
- 37694

Edited by user 31 July 2014 16:31:40(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline Moritz-BR365  
#27 Posted : 04 August 2014 08:50:42(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Märklin Einheitsmesswagen 49960 - Conversion to DCC Decoder
Replace the decoder with a DCC function decoder and white-red switchable headlight
Offline Moritz-BR365  
#28 Posted : 06 August 2014 08:09:42(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
New:
Märklin BR 185 (36850) with low beam, high beam and rear light
How to implement a new light board, ased on Märklin E190372, high beam LEDs must be soldered by your own.
Offline GlennM  
#29 Posted : 12 August 2016 12:51:02(UTC)
GlennM

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,776
Location: Somewhere Near Manchester, England
Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365 Go to Quoted Post
Hello,
I will show my little crafting projects I did with my Märklin railway models.

!CAUTION! All these modifications with electrolytic capacitors are for pure digital usage only. Analog usage is not allowed with these modifications or You should add a switch to switch off the capacitor for analog usage and/or use 63V capacitors! !CAUTION!

Starting with my latest LED illumination of my double stack waggons:

For the illumination of my passenger waggons, I use LED stripes, as they can be bought very cheap from Taiwan or China directly by Amazon or eBay. For this project, I used cold white coloured LED stripes. They look quite modern in this waggon.

To illuminate not only the seat areas but also the entry area of each waggon, I split the stripes for the upper deck into 3 parts. One with 3 LEDs for each entry area and one with 9 LEDs for the upper deck seats area. The lower deck is illuminated with one stripe of 6 LEDs.

UserPostedImage

Here, You can see, that I connected the three parts of the stripes with a short cable, to go around the middle stirrup.

UserPostedImage

The lower deck stripe is connected to the upper deck stripe with a small self made connector:

UserPostedImage

And this is, how it looks finally:

UserPostedImage

First test with a 9V battery and not completely closed:

UserPostedImage

Now, I connect the power coupler:

UserPostedImage

The power coupler of both ends are connected with a red wire:

UserPostedImage

To buffer the energy, I use here two 470µF elko (electrolytical capacitors), the bridge rectifier is mounted on the elko together with the charge resistor and the dropping resistor:

UserPostedImage

Here again a little plug connector:

UserPostedImage

The package with the elkon the bridge rectifier and the resisitors is placed here, where it can't be seen from outside:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

And this is how it looks like:

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

These are two possible circuit diagrams. I have chosen the second version:

UserPostedImage

R1 = 100 Ohm
R2 = 1.65kOhm
C = 2 x 470µF = 940µF
Bridge Rectifier: SMD DF 005

Regards,
Moritz


Moritz,

My apologies if I am asking a questions you have already answered but I cannot see it anywhere.

Who's LED lighting stripes do you use, do you have a recommended supplier?
And how do you secure them to the inside of the coach roof, glue or double-sided sticky tape?
You seem to be using the standard earthing clips from Marklin to trasnfer the earth to the wheels?
How do you transfer current from one coach to the next, or is each coach wired with its own slider?

BR
Don't look back, your not heading that way.
Offline biedmatt  
#30 Posted : 12 August 2016 13:20:11(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
Glen, Search "high density LED strips" at your ebay site. The strips come with an adhesive back, but clean to roof of your wagen with rubbing alcohol so they will reliably stick. I chose warm white for my era 3 equipment.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/...+led+strips&_sacat=0
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline GlennM  
#31 Posted : 12 August 2016 13:33:13(UTC)
GlennM

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,776
Location: Somewhere Near Manchester, England
Originally Posted by: biedmatt Go to Quoted Post
Glen, Search "high density LED strips" at your ebay site. The strips come with an adhesive back, but clean to roof of your wagen with rubbing alcohol so they will reliably stick. I chose warm white for my era 3 equipment.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/...+led+strips&_sacat=0


Thanks Matt.

I am looking forward to having a go at this, I especially think the double decker coaches look great with internal lighting.

BR
Don't look back, your not heading that way.
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Offline Moritz-BR365  
#32 Posted : 12 August 2016 13:51:52(UTC)
Moritz-BR365

Germany   
Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 682
Originally Posted by: GlennM Go to Quoted Post

My apologies if I am asking a questions you have already answered but I cannot see it anywhere.

Who's LED lighting stripes do you use, do you have a recommended supplier?
And how do you secure them to the inside of the coach roof, glue or double-sided sticky tape?
You seem to be using the standard earthing clips from Marklin to trasnfer the earth to the wheels?
How do you transfer current from one coach to the next, or is each coach wired with its own slider?


Hello Glenn,
I buy 5m stripes from eBay or Amazon, directly from China. Is most cheapest way, like this one: http://www.ebay.de/cln/t...ite-600leds/323238835012

600 LEDs/5m is better then 300 LEDs/m!

They have self-adhesive back, normally original 3M tape!

The coaches have the common 1-pole power coupler (RTS-coupler):

UserPostedImage

As You can see, the RTS-coupler is connected via a relais (FTR B3S) directly to the track voltage! The relais is switched on/off from the function decoder. This is to secure the function decoder. But this cause, that each coach must be equipped with a voltage rectifier, buffer capacitor, ....

This is a complete view of the circuit:

UserPostedImage
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Offline GlennM  
#33 Posted : 12 August 2016 21:04:08(UTC)
GlennM

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,776
Location: Somewhere Near Manchester, England
Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: GlennM Go to Quoted Post

My apologies if I am asking a questions you have already answered but I cannot see it anywhere.

Who's LED lighting stripes do you use, do you have a recommended supplier?
And how do you secure them to the inside of the coach roof, glue or double-sided sticky tape?
You seem to be using the standard earthing clips from Marklin to trasnfer the earth to the wheels?
How do you transfer current from one coach to the next, or is each coach wired with its own slider?


Hello Glenn,
I buy 5m stripes from eBay or Amazon, directly from China. Is most cheapest way, like this one: http://www.ebay.de/cln/t...ite-600leds/323238835012

600 LEDs/5m is better then 300 LEDs/m!

They have self-adhesive back, normally original 3M tape!

The coaches have the common 1-pole power coupler (RTS-coupler):

As You can see, the RTS-coupler is connected via a relais (FTR B3S) directly to the track voltage! The relais is switched on/off from the function decoder. This is to secure the function decoder. But this cause, that each coach must be equipped with a voltage rectifier, buffer capacitor, ....

This is a complete view of the circuit:



Moritz,

Thanks for this, I have followed your many conversions and projects with interest and I am looking forward to having a go. My only problem is when it comes to electronics I know less than nothing, the only good thing going is that I recognise I know less than nothing LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL

All the best ThumpUp ThumpUp
Don't look back, your not heading that way.
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