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Offline applor  
#1 Posted : 08 September 2010 03:45:27(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,653
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
This thread is a quick guide on how to install a capacitor into the new E10/40 models from Marklin, 39110/39140.

UserPostedImage

Why?

Some people have found that these models, like the new E44, tend to drive jerkily. This is because any small amount of power loss results in a rapid drop in speed because the SDS motors these models use don't have any inertia.
People with this problem have found that installing a 330uF/25V capacitor smooths out the models operation and fixes the stutters.
I had this problem running on new C track with a CS2, while others have had no problems at all.

First of all, All the work I did on this model was based on this excellent guide by DasBert33.
He really did do all the hard work on his E44 model, showing me where I needed to connect the capacitor:

https://www.marklin-user...aspx?g=posts&t=15884

The installation is a bit harder on the E10/E40 since there are no unused solder pads to easily solder the wires on to.

I instead traced those pads to where they sit on the 21 pin MTC connector and soldered them onto that location.

It requires a steady hand and a fine tipped soldering iron to complete.

I used solid core wire for this job. This allowed me to simple have the capacitor sit at the back of the loco without requiring it to be 'mounted' or glued down in any way. I work in telecommunications so I have plenty of jumper wire to use.

Here is the photo of where I have the capacitor sitting:

UserPostedImage

As you can see I have jumper wire running from the decoder board to the back where the capacitor quite comfortably sits.
I could not find anywhere else that was really suitable to mount it. If you wanted to try a 220 uF cap it would fit next to the decoder.

Here is the picture of where I soldered the jumper wire to:

UserPostedImage

That photo shows the decoder removed and you can clearly see the 21 pin MTC connector.
From the right, the neutral wire is soldered onto the base of 3rd pin from the right.
The active wire is soldered onto the the base of the 7th pin from the right.

Put the cover back on and enjoy the seamless driving!
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany
Offline Marty  
#2 Posted : 08 September 2010 05:48:07(UTC)
Marty

United States   
Joined: 29/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 272
Location: USA
Thanks for posting, Eric. ThumpUp
Marty
Offline GSRR  
#3 Posted : 08 September 2010 06:16:18(UTC)
GSRR

United States   
Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,339
Location: USA
Bert and Eric,

Excellent information, thank you both!


Eric,

You say that you are using a CS2? Do you have separate power districts, booster, contact tracks, anything like that? Also do you run the power strictly through the track, or did you wire in feeder connections every couple meters?

I ask because it seems like these newer Loks are very finicky about their diet, and how stable it is.

r/Thomas

ETE UserPostedImage ECoS iTrain TouchCab C-Gleis German Era Id & IIIb USA Era IIIb SBB Era III SJ Era IV GC Era V
Offline applor  
#4 Posted : 08 September 2010 06:49:17(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,653
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Quote:
Eric,

You say that you are using a CS2? Do you have separate power districts, booster, contact tracks, anything like that? Also do you run the power strictly through the track, or did you wire in feeder connections every couple meters?

I ask because it seems like these newer Loks are very finicky about their diet, and how stable it is.


no, nothing like that. We have a simple dual track temporary layout about 2m x 3m with one feeder track and no boosters or anything.
Its a compact layout and none of the other locos have issues.
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#5 Posted : 08 September 2010 07:13:57(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Thanks Eric, I've been thinking of getting one of the E40's. I wonder whether this solution would work with one of the original C-Sine motors (not your Tauras) - I have a 39223 E94 which runs very erratically when powered from the CS1. It seems to work OK with a MS1, and it will be interesting to see how it works with the CS2 with its switchmode power supply, and also with the CS1 using the CS2's switchmode power supply.

If the worst come to the worst, I might have to look at putting a smoothing cap in that loco.
Offline pa-pauls  
#6 Posted : 08 September 2010 11:54:50(UTC)
pa-pauls


Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,841
Location: Norway
Bigdaddynz wrote:
smoothing cap.....


LOL Good one LOL

Thank's Eric for information and photo's ThumpUp

After I have moved (as I'm getting single these days) I hope to get my train's up and running ASAP Razz
Pål Paulsen
Märklin Spur 1 Digital, epoche 3
Offline Marty  
#7 Posted : 12 September 2010 03:09:29(UTC)
Marty

United States   
Joined: 29/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 272
Location: USA
Eric,
What gauge or diameter solid core wire did you use? I have looked at the amount of clearance between the decoder and the PCB, and there's not much. I have some 20 gauge solid core wire on hand, which measures about .065 inch (over the insulation), but I think that will be too thick to fit between the decoder and PCB.
Marty
Offline applor  
#8 Posted : 12 September 2010 06:10:55(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,653
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
jumper wire is 0.5mm conductor, 24AWG.
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany
Offline Marty  
#9 Posted : 12 September 2010 18:15:02(UTC)
Marty

United States   
Joined: 29/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 272
Location: USA
Thanks, Eric.
Marty
Offline Robert Davies  
#10 Posted : 17 December 2011 00:29:09(UTC)
Robert Davies

United Kingdom   
Joined: 20/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 426
Location: Worcestershire, UK
A belated thanks for this post, too. I have just taken delivery of a 39110, which bucks and darts all over the place, and a 39140 which runs as smooth as silk. I haven't taken the tops off yet so maybe I will find that the 39140 has already been modified.

I got these two, together with a 39010 (which is fabulous and the most sophisticated loco I own), second-hand on Ebay but they are all in super condition and appear to have had very little use (indeed, the add-on detailing is still in its packets unopened). They came from frank-in-lummerland who always has quality items and I can thoroughly recommend.
Robert
Era III - IV
2 x Central Station 2 v.2 (60214 + 60215)
Hardware versions 3.6 / 4.33
Software version 4.2.1 (0)
Offline hgk  
#11 Posted : 17 December 2011 06:15:22(UTC)
hgk


Joined: 10/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 455
Location: Pacific Ocean
Hi,
FWIW A tantalum would likely provide for more mounting options.
-George
Offline Robert Davies  
#12 Posted : 22 December 2011 13:27:15(UTC)
Robert Davies

United Kingdom   
Joined: 20/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 426
Location: Worcestershire, UK
I couldn't find a tantalum capacitor of a sufficiently large value so I have installed a 470 microfarad electrolytic in each loco (together with a 10 ohm series resistor to limit the inrush current) and everything is fine - the 39110 now runs smoothly although strangely it also appears to run slightly more slowly that it used to. (The 39140 is unaffected.) I don't know if this is a illusion or whether my installation work really has had an effect.

I thought that I was OK with an soldering iron but this really was a fiddly job in order to avoid bridging out adjacent pads on the circuit board and a soldering iron with a very small tip is essential.
Robert
Era III - IV
2 x Central Station 2 v.2 (60214 + 60215)
Hardware versions 3.6 / 4.33
Software version 4.2.1 (0)
Offline Marty  
#13 Posted : 23 December 2011 00:06:10(UTC)
Marty

United States   
Joined: 29/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 272
Location: USA
Hi Robert,

I purchased a "pencil soldering iron" to do this job, and I agree, it is a very delicate soldering task. In fact, I was at first so intimidated by the soldering required, that I installed a second pickup shoe instead. Here's the post on that adventure, if you're interested:

https://www.marklin-user...g-a-2nd-pickup-shoe.aspx


Marty
Offline arconell  
#14 Posted : 23 December 2011 01:52:21(UTC)
arconell


Joined: 27/07/2010(UTC)
Posts: 174
Location: Kreis Kleve, Germany
Hi all,

Just a word of caution when using big capacitors in loco's or lighted carriages or similar. You may find that your booster(s) switch off on overload protection rather erratically. That is because on switching them on, the capacitors in the various loco's and/or carriages are loaded at that very moment causing for a very short moment an overload current to occur. Also when the loaded capacitor is called upon to do its job, i.e. supply power to keep the loco running or the lights burning, it is immediately reloaded possibly causing the same effect. Generally speaking anywhere between 500 and 1000 µF total capacitance switched parallel (i.e. switched between the + and -, as is the case with such buffer capacitors) may already create these problems, also depending on the sensitivity of your boosters' overload protection mechanism.

Best wishes to all members and their families for a merry christmas and a happy, healthy and prosperous new year, Robert

Offline jeehring  
#15 Posted : 25 December 2011 18:16:16(UTC)
jeehring


Joined: 25/09/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,786
Location: ,
Thank you Robert. Same for you !
I'm happy today. I just picked my E40 39140 up with a V60 (telex coupling)....from Father Christmas's sack, and I made a few tests on an oval layout with a MS1, it runs smoothly without any jerks.I agree it's a nice model. It will be the electric alternative to my goods transportation by steam
However , about the roof line detailling something is bothering me : I noticed 2 brown insulators (those brown mushrooms) on which there not any connected wire .....please, anyone to tell me if it's normal, is it the same for you ?
Looking at pictures of the E10, it seems to be the same, so I'm half reassured....but it is not an E40
I wonder what is the use of those insulators in real when there is no visible electric line on it...Confused
Each time I buy an electric machine, the roof line is the first part I'm inspecting since one day I noticed a missing small piece of line on a brand new ae 6/6....I must say it's happenned only once within the last 10/12 years...Sleep Smile
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