39230 Erratic Movement & Clicking Sound Share  Email this topic  LinkBack Topic URL  Retweet this Topic  Share Topic on Google+  Like this Topic  Share on Facebook  Digg this Topic  Reddit this Topic  Share on Tumblr Options  Watch this topic  Print this topic View » Normal Threaded

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aos		#1 Posted : 17 December 2011 20:17:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi, I have a brand new 39230, all singing, all dancing BR23 with Softdrive Sinus propulsion and maintenance free motor. It has only been run for about maybe two hours. It has suffered no physical damage, ie dropping. I had not noticed a clicking sound before while it was running. It was only today when we had the Scottish contingency meeting that we spotted it (on M Track). I have returned home and tried it on my C track and it does the same thing. It is not just the clicking though. When in motion, the centre pair (of the driven) wheels seem to be lifting up ever so slightly off the track. Looking at the loco from either the front or the side, you can see the loco visibly rock from side to side. I can see no binding in the valve mechanisms and can see no chaffing. It is not a constant thing, but it does seem to repeat maybe every 15-20cm. Correct me Ian, if my measurements are wrong. I thought maybe it might need some lubrication. The manual recommends Marklin 7149 oil and Trix 66626 grease. Can anyone possibly offer some advice. Thanks in advance, Alan
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David Dewar		#2 Posted : 17 December 2011 20:21:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,491 Location: Scotland		Worth checking any springs that are keeping the wheels on the track and also the slider although if the loco is running the pressure might be OK but it could be sitting at an angle. Does extra weight on the loco make any difference. dave
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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jvuye		#3 Posted : 17 December 2011 20:34:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: aos Hi, I have a brand new 39230, all singing, all dancing BR23 with Softdrive Sinus propulsion and maintenance free motor. It has only been run for about maybe two hours. It has suffered no physical damage, ie dropping. I had not noticed a clicking sound before while it was running. It was only today when we had the Scottish contingency meeting that we spotted it (on M Track). I have returned home and tried it on my C track and it does the same thing. It is not just the clicking though. When in motion, the centre pair (of the driven) wheels seem to be lifting up ever so slightly off the track. Looking at the loco from either the front or the side, you can see the loco visibly rock from side to side. I can see no binding in the valve mechanisms and can see no chaffing. It is not a constant thing, but it does seem to repeat maybe every 15-20cm. Correct me Ian, if my measurements are wrong. I thought maybe it might need some lubrication. The manual recommends Marklin 7149 oil and Trix 66626 grease. Can anyone possibly offer some advice. Thanks in advance, Alan HGi This is typical of a driver out of quarter. If only one of the drivers is a degree off or two, and the coupling rod bends. This often happens when one tries to turn wheels by hand...not a good idea, especially not when there is a worm drive. (not implying you did!) Unless you are really familiar with this matter, I'd suggest you'd refrain from trying to fix this yourself. Too bad you are a little further than around the corner from here, 'cause I have fixed many of these. When you have the right tools and know how to diagnose where the "shift" has occurred, it takes all of 2 minutes. I would even give you a beer or a coffee "while-U-wait! Any chance you have a competent live steam model loco specialist nearby...? He'd know how to fix it just with his fingertips (I kid you not!) Otherwise, it's back to the dealer, then to Märklin. Cheers Jacques Cheers
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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H0		#4 Posted : 17 December 2011 20:38:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,488 Location: DE-NW		Also worth checking the screws that hold the wheel sets in place.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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aos		#5 Posted : 17 December 2011 20:50:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi all, Many thanks for the input. I shall take a closer look at the loco and see if I can see any misalignment. How do I recognise "a driver out of quarter or two."? If not, its back to Marklin. Alan
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Joseph Meiring		#6 Posted : 17 December 2011 21:15:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,165 Location: Western Cape Cape Town		Sorry to hear that Alan - got my 39230 in April, a really lovely loco! Could be quicker visiting Jacques than sending it all the way back to Maerklin!!! Joe, Cape Town
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jvuye		#7 Posted : 18 December 2011 23:15:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: aos ...How do I recognise "a driver out of quarter or two."?.... I would put the loco on a straight track , at eye level, and run it *very* slowly.(Speed step 1) You should be able to see the "jumping". Usually happens when the cranks are near horizontal. If it is serious, it might even block the loco. If that happens stop the power, and use a pair of tweezers to test if the coupling rod is "loose" or "bends". Another check: look at the position of the counterweights: on a BR23, they should be exactly at the same angle on all 3 drivers on the same side. At least, you'll be able to evaluate the seriousness of the problem. Cheers
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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tiono		#8 Posted : 19 December 2011 02:33:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 234		My 39230 was working perfectly for the first several months, then it started to emit clicking sound and its main wheel jumping (yes, it really jump a few millimeters from the track) periodically on straight track. After careful examination, I found out that the valve rod's arm (see photo below, item A) was upward instead of downward. Then I fixed the arm downward, and the locomotive worked perfectly, but it came back to the same problem after a few hours. Seems as the rod's pivot point (item B) was loose and shifting the running angle too much. So I realigned it and reducing the running angle of that small valve-rod. It works fine till now.
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aos		#9 Posted : 19 December 2011 14:21:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi Tiono & Jacques, I have opened the loco and run it both quickly and slowly, but I cannot see any problems. The left hand side rods do not seem to be direct alignment, so maybe this could have some bearing on the problem. I have also rotated slowly the brass motor cylinder and have watched the wheels rotating very slowly. At a certain point, the rear pair of wheels continue to rotate, but the the others stop. After a few rotations of the motor the other wheels start again. Does this sound like the internal gearing has packed up? What are the gears made of these days. My old analogue locos had gearing off batteships. Any thoughts, Alan
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jvuye		#10 Posted : 19 December 2011 14:28:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: aos Hi Tiono & Jacques, I have opened the loco and run it both quickly and slowly, but I cannot see any problems. The left hand side rods do not seem to be direct alignment, so maybe this could have some bearing on the problem. I have also rotated slowly the brass motor cylinder and have watched the wheels rotating very slowly. At a certain point, the rear pair of wheels continue to rotate, but the the others stop. After a few rotations of the motor the other wheels start again. Does this sound like the internal gearing has packed up? What are the gears made of these days. My old analogue locos had gearing off batteships. Any thoughts, Alan By doing that test (rotating with the flywheel) you have just highlighted a bend! When teh wheels stop, take the tweezer as I said earlier and try to pull the connecting rods back and forth...the one who doesn't have any play is the side where there is an "off-quarter" driver. That rod is probably also not perfectly horizontal at that moment. You should be able to see which driver wheel's counterweight is out of phase: that's where the "out-of-quarter" happened. I took a look at the exploded view. You can remove te body by taking off screws ref # 11 and 12. Then unclip the motor holding plate # 17 and you should be able to remove the motor #16. Now the driving wheels are free, you can rotate them with your fingertip, and "feel" the hard point... Can you? Keep looking, we're getting close! Cheers
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Ian555		#11 Posted : 19 December 2011 14:52:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan and Jacques, Not sure if this will help, but here we have Alan's BR23 travelling at one click on the CS2. I've got to be honest and say I can't see the Loco having the problem in this video, but maybe a trained eye will spot something. Hope it helps. Ian.
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H0		#12 Posted : 19 December 2011 16:43:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,488 Location: DE-NW		Originally Posted by: aos Does this sound like the internal gearing has packed up? Only the last axle is driven by cog wheels, the other two axles are driven with the rods. So I presume the problem is with the rods or the alignment of the wheels.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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jvuye		#13 Posted : 19 December 2011 17:34:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France		Originally Posted by: Ian555 Hi Alan and Jacques, Not sure if this will help, but here we have Alan's BR23 travelling at one click on the CS2. I've got to be honest and say I can't see the Loco having the problem in this video, but maybe a trained eye will spot something. Hope it helps. Ian. Yes!!! I can see the last driver is slightly ahead of the rest! It's very clear at about time click O:09 to 0:13! Can you make the same video from the other side? I think we have found it, but I need to see the other side too, then I can probably tell you which side to apply a correction.... Thanks
		Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Ian555		#14 Posted : 19 December 2011 17:40:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Jacques, Glad the video has been of help, I will have to wait on Alan to get back to us. Ian.
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aos		#15 Posted : 22 December 2011 07:34:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi, More woes. At our get together last Saturday, Ian noticed that the loco shot off uncontrollably when he put it on the track initially. This has now seemed to have become worse. I now suspect a faulty decoder as it has started doing it using my MS I have been in contact with Marklin Service and they have advised me to return the loco to them. At the price I paid for it, I am none too happy at the quality I shall wait until after the new year before sending it back. I don't want it lost in the post. Alan
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Ian555		#16 Posted : 22 December 2011 08:16:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, That's the best idea, get the Loco replaced. Ian.
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Dave Banks		#17 Posted : 22 December 2011 10:09:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,047 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Now that you have gotten onto the subject of the decoder I would just like to tell you all about our woes downunder with this above mentioned BR23. It has been working well up to now & running on the CS2. Lately we got a ECOS 50200 as we find it more user friendly. However once this loco registered on the Ecos all sound was lost. Symbols all present. Went through all the motions to rectify it but still no sound. Placed loco on CS2 again & did a factory default reset. Sound returned & all good. Back on Ecos & nothing. Went through the default process again & now no sound. Loco runs well & lights operate but no sound. To cut a long story short we swapped decoders with another similar loco to test if the speaker was at fault & the decoder appears to be the guilty party. Now the loco is still in the warranty period but must be shipped back at my cost back to Marklin which when insured is just over a AUD$100.00. I am thinking it may be best to just purchase an ESU 21 pin M4 sound decoder & that should sort it out. What is your opinions on this dilemma? Note: decoder in this loco is not ESU.
		D.A.Banks
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H0		#18 Posted : 22 December 2011 10:35:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,488 Location: DE-NW		Originally Posted by: DaveB However once this loco registered on the Ecos all sound was lost. Which track voltage did you set on your ECoS? The BR 23 initially came without extra capacitor, ESU recommends a track voltage of (at least) 19 V to avoid sound problems with those new Trix decoders. Could also help to disable Railcom on the ECoS (at least for a test).
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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aos		#19 Posted : 22 December 2011 11:32:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		David, I am just not technically competent enough to get involved in swapping decoders, especially when there seems to be something fundamentally wrong with this loco. It was enough of a traumatic task converting my old analogue locos using ESU decoders as I really a ham-fisted clot. No, it is under warranty, so back it goes to Marklin. If I tamper with it, Marklin will say I have caused the damage and it will invalidate the warranty It also ceases to amaze me how manufacturers had such high standards of reliability and low component failure until the advent of the internet I notice that Marklin no longer stamps their products with the country of manufacture, unlike the "Made in Western Germany" of olden days. So, heaven knows where this one was made. I sympathise with you regarding the shipment costs. That is extreme. Judging by the number of faults manifesting themselves, It would probably pay one of you chaps from Australia to box up everybodies defective kit and make a special trip to the factory. It would probably work out cheaper than all the shipping costs This suggestion poses one dilemna though: who will be the unfortunate member who will have to make that long, arduous trip to the Marklin factory
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Ian555		#20 Posted : 22 December 2011 12:02:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, I was going to make my 10th BR23 a 39230, but now I'm not so sure. Anyway, Merry Christmas to you and the family. See you in the New Year. Ian.
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aos		#21 Posted : 22 December 2011 12:18:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi all, maybe we could consider a survey topic for this model so that we can determine how reliable it really is. We could start this survey off, then, as members have problems with other models, we could have another survey for that model. Or do that seem to onerous? Alan
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Dave Banks		#22 Posted : 22 December 2011 23:03:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,047 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Tom I have got the track voltage set to 18.1 volts at the moment. Maybe this is set too low? I also have the problem of MFX locos continually re - registering themselves over & over. The new MFX locos are always first put on the programming track for first registration & then allowed to run on the layout.Programming track is totally insulated from rest of the layout. Any ECOS 50200 fans out there with this similar problem?
		D.A.Banks
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Dave Banks		#23 Posted : 22 December 2011 23:14:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,047 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Alan, the 21 pin decoder removal & re-instalment is child's play. Just pull the old one out & push the new one in. Getting at it with this loco is fiddly & you have to watch out not to break pipes on the boiler. But despite the small issues that this loco is having it is a very nice loco & I wouldn't want it any other way. I would have liked to have seen Marklin stay with ESU for their decoders & wished they had never moved their manufacturing off shore but maybe that is what it took at the time to remain competitive at the time.
		D.A.Banks
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H0		#24 Posted : 22 December 2011 23:48:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,488 Location: DE-NW		Originally Posted by: DaveB Tom I have got the track voltage set to 18.1 volts at the moment. It'll cost you nothing to try 19 V and/or 20 V (maybe with Railcom switched off). 18.1 V is more than I get from my MS2, so this should not really be a problem - but ESU recommends at least 19 V to avoid distorted sound with BR 23/BR 39 from the first batch without capacitors. Distorted/interrupted sound is known to occur if voltage is too low - no sound at all could be a different problem (but who knows?).
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Dave Banks		#25 Posted : 23 December 2011 09:51:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,047 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Thanks Tom, I will give it a try. I am also just wondering what ESU decoder to replace the faulty BR23's with as the speaker is 8 Ohm & the loco is C-Sine. Any ideas if the newer ESU M4 decoders can handle this loco & what settings must be changed to accommodate the sinus motor? I am more used to the original ESU decoders with 100ohm decoders. Looking forward to anyone's input on this matter.
		D.A.Banks
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H0		#26 Posted : 23 December 2011 10:29:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,488 Location: DE-NW		Originally Posted by: DaveB Any ideas if the newer ESU M4 decoders can handle this loco & what settings must be changed to accommodate the sinus motor? AFAIK you need the same settings for any ESU decoder and any SDS loco: turn load regulation off and make sure aux 4 is always on (IIRC some newer locos don't rely on aux 4 any more). Maybe someone tried it with a BR 23 and can confirm it.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Dave Banks		#27 Posted : 24 December 2011 00:07:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,047 Location: Gold Coast, Australia.		Tom , Thanks for that advice. I will dig around a bit deeper but I believe it will be a simple procedure.I will keep you posted.
		D.A.Banks
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NZMarklinist		#28 Posted : 03 January 2012 07:14:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,757 Location: Auckland NZ		Allan, All, First it's worth a try to follow Jacques' suggestion, video the other side but run it with all functions turned off to see if the clicking sound is evident at the binding stage which must be happening on the other side. Last time out on our modular layout mine was running OK but the sound was coming and going. I thought it may have been dirty track but never checked the output voltage of the CS1 we were using powered by 6002 transformer You could even order a new wheel set for the replacement faulty one (which may or not be quartered correctly anyway) or send it just the offending axle to Jacques for a low cost requarter repair. Jacques will need to see the left side vidoe tho to confirm his thoughts ! Check your, well actually Ian's transformer out put power to the controller before condemming the decoder. If it's the new Marklin or an ESU switched mode power supply your using you'll need a DC analogue voltmeter to check this, a digital one will be rolling the numbers too quickly to get a reading as the DC ouput is half wave AIUI, right Jacques However if too many problems are persisting perhaps a return to Marklin is in order. One other thing that has arisen about this model is that the earlier batches which I believe mine is, were not fitted with a capacitor, as the later ones were, and this causes erratic sounds and running AIUI, so will check mine for this or rather in NZ ask Dennis to ! If your is replaced you could hope it will be the latest spec with capacitor
		Glen Auckland NZ " Every Marklin layout needs a V200, a Railbus and a Banana car", not to mention a few Black and red Steamers, oh and the odd Elok ! CS1 Reloaded, Touch Cab, C Track Modules, K track layout all under construction. Currently Insider
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river6109		#29 Posted : 03 January 2012 07:35:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,881 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Hi all, I know the problem was posted around the Christmas period and we have now entered the new year, however it would be advisable when expert opinion is given to follow it up respectively and report back. aos I would suggest to take the boiler off again and see if you have pinched a wire somewhere, secondly as you said you're not mechanically or technically equipped to do such a task, I also would recommend not to proceed if you can't fix it, what has been suggested. It is also my opinion viewing the loco's movement, what Jacques has announced. So we are half way there all we need to see is now the other side. John
		https://www.youtube.com/river6109 https://www.youtube.com/6109river 5 years in Destruction mode 50 years in Repairing mode
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aos		#30 Posted : 03 January 2012 08:56:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi, many thanks for all the input. I have been in contact with Marklin and they have asked me to return the loco to them. I was just waiting until the Christmas/New Year rush was over before shipping it back. The last thing I want is for it to get lost in the post. I will report back after I receive more info from Marklin. Ala.
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Jay		#31 Posted : 03 January 2012 11:42:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/05/2010(UTC) Posts: 303 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa		Hello Alan,it would be great,if it's not too late to show vidio of the other side with the sound turned off,before you send the loc. back to Marklin.This just to educate ourselves on the forum that are technically minded as to how to diagnose,identify and rectify such a problem. I am sure that even Jaques would like to satisfy his theory and our curiosity.Hope its not too much trouble for you and Ian.M Many thanks and a Happy New Year to you and all forum members. Jay
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aos		#32 Posted : 03 January 2012 12:20:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Jay, I have never uploaded any files, but I shall take a video of the other side. Alan
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Ian555		#33 Posted : 03 January 2012 14:53:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, Can I help with this. Ian.
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aos		#34 Posted : 03 January 2012 15:18:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi Ian, I shall give it a try first and see how I get on. Alan
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aos		#35 Posted : 03 January 2012 15:50:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi, I have been able to take a movie of it running, but it is a staggering 24MB of Quick Time Movie (.Mov file) in size. How do I shrink it to a more manageable size? Alan
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Ian555		#36 Posted : 03 January 2012 15:57:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, You want to load 45 to 60 seconds of recording onto You-Tube.....that will take about one hour. Then, once your video is on You-Tube, you play it and hit the share button and copy it. You can then paste it, on the forum. Ian.
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aos		#37 Posted : 03 January 2012 16:31:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Ian, I think that I have done it correctly. The link is : Alan Edited by moderator 03 January 2012 20:29:00(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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hennabm		#38 Posted : 03 January 2012 16:42:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,075 Location: Edinburgh,		Alan the link worked for me Mike
		1957 - 1985 era What's digital?
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Ian555		#39 Posted : 03 January 2012 16:56:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, The fault on the Loco looks worse on that side, you can see the Loco lifting off the track. Great job on the video. ...the first of many. Ian.
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Ian555		#40 Posted : 03 January 2012 17:03:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, If you compare the 2 video's, look at the driving rod between the front and middle wheel. On your side of the Loco, the small rod is pointing "up the way". I had that same problem on a Loco a couple of months ago, it just "clicked" into position and has been alright since. Ian.
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Jay		#41 Posted : 03 January 2012 20:23:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/05/2010(UTC) Posts: 303 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa		Hello Alan Thanks for the excellent vidio I have yet to learn to work these gizmos.Now we need Jacques to please comment and explain where the problem is and how to fix for us that like to work with things mechanical.And also for us that work on old locs and not want to send to Marklin. Thanks Alan and also to Ian Regards Jay
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Webmaster		#42 Posted : 03 January 2012 20:55:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165		Alan, I had exactly the same problem with my BR45... I had handled the loco a bit uncarefully - It toppled over and fell from about 20cm height and it landed on the side... I was going nuts looking for the problem since everything looked ok. Then I finally noticed while looking at it very carefully from underneath that one of the outer rods in the valve gear was slightly bent at the angle where it is secured to the wheel and caught the rod inside it... Instead of being almost a 90 degree angle, it was more like 75 degree, barely noticeable unless you looked really hard... Careful bending with sharp nosed pliers fixed it, and I could relax again... Tolerances are much tighter nowadays... But I must say, it looks like the upwards angled rod is pushing "too much", is it catching the inner rod? Webmaster attached the following image(s):
		Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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aos		#43 Posted : 03 January 2012 22:25:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi all, I really appreciate the efforts from everybody to assist. If the loco had only this as a problem and it were older, then I would consider attempting a repair. However, as it seems to have a decoder issue as well and it is virtally brand new, I shall send it back to Marklin. Once again, many thanks, Alan
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john black		#44 Posted : 04 January 2012 20:53:42(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Originally Posted by: aos Hi all, maybe we could consider a survey topic for this model so that we can determine how reliable it really is. Or do that seem to onerous? Hi Alan, when you dig thru the past years you'll find lotta stuff on such, here ... So you're not alone - good luck with the repair, M oughta do this just nicely
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Robert Davies		#45 Posted : 06 January 2012 00:49:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/11/2010(UTC) Posts: 426 Location: Worcestershire, UK		Alan Nice videoing! If I can refer to Juhan's photo without reposting it, I think that the problem is at the opposite end of the rod to which he has referred. The rod joins a crank on the big end to what is called the expansion link, which on the real thing is able to move up and down, thereby controlling the valve gear and selecting direction. Comparing the two sides of the locomotive in the different videos, the expansion link is upside down on the left-hand side (the side in your video) with the result that the rod seems to be striking the running plate and lifting that side of the loco. It looks to me that you need to turn the expansion link over (i.e. top to bottom) and you may need to take the drive rod off at the big end to do this. This link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walschaerts_valve_gear shows the parts in more detail and you can see how things should be. Edited to correct terminology and add link
		Robert Era III - IV 2 x Central Station 2 v.2 (60214 + 60215) Hardware versions 3.6 / 4.33 Software version 4.2.1 (0)
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Nielsenr		#46 Posted : 06 January 2012 04:54:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/10/2010(UTC) Posts: 883 Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL		Robert, I definitely see what you are talking about. However the terminology that I would use is that on the good side (right side of the loco) the expansion rod is vertical (up and down) while on the bad side (left side), the rod is horizontal (left to right). It appears that the joint connecting the expansion rod with the next rod has been pushed up. Not sure how easy it would be to push it back down without bending something. Alan, Hope you get this solved to your satisfaction ... Robert
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aos		#47 Posted : 11 March 2012 14:10:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Hi, The loco arrived back from Marklin earlier this week. I have just had the time to test it out. There is no clicking or erratic behaviour any more. The sounds also sound better than before, or that could be my imagination? The sound also seems louder. anyway, i am really pleased that it is solved. Shame that it needed fixing in the first place. Alan
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hennabm		#48 Posted : 11 March 2012 14:42:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,075 Location: Edinburgh,		Hi Alan glad to hear that the lok is well again Mike
		1957 - 1985 era What's digital?
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Ian555		#49 Posted : 11 March 2012 15:11:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 20,302 Location: Scotland		Hi Alan, Good to hear you got it sorted. Do you think it's the same Loco they sent back to you. Ian.
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aos		#50 Posted : 11 March 2012 17:50:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury		Ian, yes, it is my loco. I am convinced that the sound characteristics are definitely better and louder. Some of the icons which show up on the CS are diffferent also. Alan
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