Following on from the orphaned items thread, the bits I needed for my resto arrived yesterday.

Thanks to Jacques (jvuye)I now have two bogies to fit my laid up 4015.
This shell I obtained around 20 years ago as a throwaway when attending a train show. Nobody else was interested in the wreck so I took it, hoping one day to repair it.

As you can see some previous less careful owner had decided to paint the roof dark grey.
I, at some point, scraped it to see what was underneath.

Well that day has come and the strip down has started.

The first thing the observant of you will notice is that while I now have the necessary bogies, the pivots for them are not there. This I had forgotten during its 20 years in storage.

That problem will be for another day.
Today I have taken the doors and roof and rubbed them back to bare metal. The first coat of clear zinc paint (an excellent match btw and obtainable from Frosts.co.uk)has gone on. This will then be flatted carefully before a final coat applied.
When this has been done I will take pictures as well as planning how to attach my new bogies to the body

More coming soon........................

Hi Mike,

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the pivots not being there, but I'm assuming you mean the studs they are meant to mount on, secured by a "c-clip". This being the case, you should then have two holes in the chassis where the mounts are missing from.

I was pondering this for a hopefully-simple solution for you and if it was me, I would secure the trucks with a screw each, possibly some washers if needed and a couple of nuts to lock it.

I've attached some example images of what I mean, the truck may not be identical to yours, but they are all very similar, (the side frames are removed for clarity).

I simply grabbed some 'close-enough' spare hardware (screw, nuts, washers) that I had handy, if you don't have anything like this, your local hardware or electronics/auto spares/hobby shop should have a good range to choose from. You want the screw thread diameter to be as snug a fit as possible through the truck hole so that it turns freely but with minimal slop.

So the idea is, the screw through the hole (head facing down), and if required, possibly a washer either side of the truck hole - probably depends on the size of the screw head as much as anything. Then you will also need two nuts - one for each side of the coach base hole. You may actually need three nuts to allow height/gap adjustment.

If you are lucky, the bottom nut may be about the same thickness as the original mount, which makes it easier.

Either way, you need to secure the screw so that it does not work loose, AND get the spacing between the top of the truck and the underside of the coach base correct. That part I can't photo because I don't have any coaches with the mount missing. If you only use two nuts, then as an alternative you can try to adjust the truck/frame gap with washers.

Obviously you do NOT tighten the nut against the truck, that would prevent it turning freely. Both nuts should be tightened against the base, but if the height is then wrong, that is where additional washers or different nut thickness should give you the required gap/height adjustment whilst keeping the truck stable. In fact, it does not matter if the truck can 'float' up and down the screw, it's just the height when the coach is resting on the truck that matters. If it was original, the only reason for the c-clip is to stop the truck falling off when the coach is lifted.

Bit hard to explain really but if you give it a go, I think you'll follow what I'm trying to explain. If you look at the image, the two nuts are intended for either side of the frame. The washer is the same thickness as the three 'dimples' around the truck top portion.

Others may have better suggestions than this that I have not considered, I usually go with what I'm familiar with and can do with what is on hand. Being an I.T. Tech, perhaps I have a better than average assortment of screws, bolts & springs than most but the screws shown I did actually buy from my hardware store for some other reason.

Hi Cookee
Thanks for the advise.
Yes the base is there and as you quite rightly say, there are just holes where the pivots should be.

I had thought along similar lines - using a BA nut and bolt and using lock nuts to secure and provide the pivot.
I shall be visiting the hardware store tomorrow to see what can be found as suitable.

BTW the doors are now painted and the roof is in primer. I just need some real smooth flatting paper before going on to top coat.

If you would take a close up picture so that I could see the type of fixtures present on the chassis I'll just make these two pivots for you...let's not futz around, and do it right the first time!

Cheers

OK, it looks like that this one is not the version with a clipped-on bogie, but needs a special pivot screw.
I think it is good news, it is easier to make or provide/fabricate (I may even still have a couple of these waiting in my "bags of tricks".)
Check your private mail for more info.

Let's keep the "Orphan items" topic alive...it will end up giving a second life to Märklin "Old Glories" items!

Cheers

....and here are the "functional equivalent" pivots bolts coming fresh from the machine shop!
Watch your (snail)mail!

Hello Cookee!

Helical gears?

There are a number of sources for these, and I'll be glad to help you find the right one.

But one needs to first know the dimensions needed for your application
To start, a picture would greatly help understanding what we are talking about.

Sorry, but I don't have any AMS equipment so you have to help me here!

Is it a worm (= screw) meshing with a toothed wheel?
If yes, one has to measure the pitch of the worm (space between two teeth), the number of threads (usually one or two) and also define the gear it meshes with.
I am 100% sure Faller used the metric system , so the gear itself will be defined by its "module" (usually mod 0.4 for Märklin HO gear, probably smaller for Faller AMS)

Then you need to measure the outside diameter and count the number of teeth.(If you don't have the mod value, I can explain how to simply calculate it from the outside diameter and teeth count)

Accessorily, to be able to manufacture that gear one needs to know the thickness of the wheel and the diameter of the shaft it will be mounted on.
I would guess Faller uses angled teeth on the worm gear (unlike Meccano who was meshing worm gears with straight toothed wheels and pinions!! )

If you can get this data, we can move on.

If it is indeed mod 0.4 and it is straight theething, you are in luck: I have the series of milling cutters to make any of these from 12t to infinite (=aka a rack! ) but I would probably use bronze for the worm instead of brass.
If it is different, there are a number of commercial sources for all kind of gears here in Europe and in the USA (I am sure somewhere in the Austral hemisphere too! )
Worst case, I can always get these for you from my regular supplier and mail them to you!
OK, now you have the pointers...give us the data!
Looking forward!
Cheers

Looks like an answer! Thanks a lot!
Still it is "Kunststoff"...and Cookee is looking for "metall"...
I think we can still go through the exercise...

There were no first class version made of these "Leichtsthal" coaches by Märklin...but you could try to find a 348/4 (4017) as baggage car!
However there is a tin-plate SBB first class Mä coach that could do the trick: the 4066, which more or less follows the EW-1 outlines (Think of it, maybe I should get myself a pair of these too... )
In the "real" world, in the 50's, train would have EW1 in the first class section, followed by the restaurant, then followed with the 2nd class "Leichtstahl" coaches
I would couple all these behind an RE/RES/RET800 or 3014, these were contemporaries of the said coaches
A 3050 would be also good match...
But that is only my humble opinion!
Hope this helps!

You've got to be kidding, I missed this thread?

Um....I put this exact model on ebay a few days ago. Check in the Sell forum for my thread.

My coach is mechanically perfect, top is near perfect. Everything is in great working order, except....one side is badly rusted. Badly.

My auction starts at .99 cents US. If you need parts, it's up for grabs.


Good luck

Paul

Well another wet day in the UK, so what better excuse than to get on with the 348/1.
Firstly though came the small matter of refitting the windscreen to the BR103. Thankfully no one was hurt

Once this was repaired the finishing touches were made to the 348 and she trundled out of the repair shop and back to the rails. This has been a joy to see, as I never thought it would ever be refurbed.
Take a look at the transformation.



Thank you to all involved in the advise and the supply of parts and labour. Without you it would not be here today.

The 103 was returning to duties and just happened to in the way of the camera.

OK, looks simple enough!
So you are using spray cans?
Thanks

Ah, this is great stuff. Thanks for sharing!

Great. Thanks for the pictures. The roof looks like new. Did you use some primer?

As promised, I now have further photos of the restored 4015 complete with the 4017 and 3050 and my original red diner.



And very happy I am with the set.

Brillant restoration

Bravo!
This is a classic among classics!
I love it when I see so many !
I am also personally very happy to see we can so easily contribute to each other's enjoyment of our hobby!
Just telling each other what we are looking for...and **POOF**, it happens!
Magic, isn't it?
Have fun!