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David Dewar		#1 Posted : 14 December 2022 15:54:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,340 Location: Scotland		Anybody know of a UK supplier of a decent soldering station. I have a cheap Antex iron but I am rubbish at soldering and maybe something better would help. Bought some flux paste which does not appear to help although not sure what I am supposed to do with it anyway. Lost a couple of Viessmann light bars due to poor effort at connecting wires to the pads on the light bar. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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marklinist5999		#2 Posted : 14 December 2022 16:13:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,119 Location: Michigan, Troy		Does Amazon sell there? I think so, and they have several. Hot air, regular, and combination types.
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Copenhagen		#3 Posted : 14 December 2022 17:00:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 373 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		I'd recommend finding some youtube videos about how to solder electronics and wires and stuff. I've learned a lot from them.
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JohnjeanB		#4 Posted : 14 December 2022 17:20:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,114 Location: Paris, France		Originally Posted by: David Dewar Anybody know of a UK supplier of a decent soldering station. I have a cheap Antex iron but I am rubbish at soldering and maybe something better would help. Bought some flux paste which does not appear to help although not sure what I am supposed to do with it anyway. Lost a couple of Viessmann light bars due to poor effort at connecting wires to the pads on the light bar. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave Hi Dave Better select a soldering station: - with regulated temperature - with protected soldering tips (avoid bare copper tips) - with standard soldering tips that can be exchanged (replacement or different types). 30 years ago I purchased a Weller soldering iron and still have it, replaced bits (you have to, once in a while). You may find replacement bits even in China Here is an example on ebay UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27550...z%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6ie0paiYQ Soldering paste: it is used for SMC (Surface Mounted Components) soldering. This is for tiny, very dense components Flux also called soldering water (Lötwasser): This is a transparent liquid with a brush to ease the soldering on special supports (e.g.: stainless steel rails Avoid absolutely old soldering aids such as alcali stones, etc. Cheers Jean
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bph		#5 Posted : 14 December 2022 18:07:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/08/2018(UTC) Posts: 995		Originally Posted by: David Dewar Anybody know of a UK supplier of a decent soldering station. I have a cheap Antex iron but I am rubbish at soldering and maybe something better would help. Bought some flux paste which does not appear to help although not sure what I am supposed to do with it anyway. Lost a couple of Viessmann light bars due to poor effort at connecting wires to the pads on the light bar. Any suggestions appreciated. Dave try rs online: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/power-tools-soldering-welding/soldering/soldering-stations/ I replaced my (very) cheap china soldering station with this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1227916 (and some extra various small soldering tips) I must admit that I was under serious doubt to use that kind of money on a soldering station, but it was night and day. So I'm very pleased that made that decision and I bought it.
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mvd71		#6 Posted : 14 December 2022 21:18:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,717 Location: Auckland,		A good soldering station is always worthwhile, and the Weller units have traditionally been good quality. But a lack of knowledge/skills will not be compensated for by an expensive tool. As suggested watch some online tutorial videos and practice. If you have some old wires of different sizes, try soldering them together for practice. And if you have any faulty decoders etc.. use them for practise too. Soldering is a skill that takes practise to become competent, and I’m sure with a little bit of time spent you will get it!
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David Dewar		#7 Posted : 14 December 2022 23:30:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,340 Location: Scotland		Thanks for above. I have been soldering light bars etc for years but never get any better. Watched the videos etc. Looked at DCC Concepts here in the UK and they appear to have several units along with videos etc. My current Antex 25 XS is cheap but perhaps something better would be useful. I think Santa is bringing some new coaches so I have Viessmann lights ready for them but will try for a better iron as I always light all my coaches. Again thanks to all for the above comments.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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dickinsonj		#8 Posted : 15 December 2022 01:17:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,679 Location: Crozet, Virginia		Good luck David. I blamed my poor technique for my equally poor soldering for years. Eventually I bought a good quality soldering station and my results improved dramatically. Now I can solder to decoder boards with smooth, shiny solder joints that never fail. Soldering went from being stressful to a point of pride in my repairs and upgrades. It sounds like you are on the right track with lighting all of your coaches. That is my goal as well although other matters have caused me to fall a little behind. I like that work however and I will catch up quickly next year. Enjoy!
		Regards, Jim I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains! So many trains and so little time.
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Mr. Ron		#9 Posted : 15 December 2022 10:06:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 311 Location: Mississippi, Vancleave		Age, poor eyesight and shaky hands are the enemy of good soldering skills. I bought a resistance soldering unit hoping to be able to solder things like hand rails and ladders, but unable to do so successfully. I had no problem in my early days. I rely more now on epoxys and instant glues (crazy glue). Holding 2 parts while an adhesive sets is almost impossible, like 2 walls of a building. I am trying to design some aids to help in building model structures.
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Toosmall		#10 Posted : 15 December 2022 10:11:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 614 Location: Sydney		I have two Goot PX-335 85 - 120 watt fixed temperature soldering irons https://en.goot.jp/products/detail/px_335 very happy with them. So much better than the $20 20 watt soldering irons. For soldering wire a touch heavier like 53mm² for 175 amp Anderson plugs I use a Bosch GHB 20-63 2000 watt heat gun. Soldering with lead/tin solder is easier than tin only, I never have to use additional flux.
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David Dewar		#11 Posted : 15 December 2022 12:12:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,340 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: Mr. Ron Age, poor eyesight and shaky hands are the enemy of good soldering skills. I bought a resistance soldering unit hoping to be able to solder things like hand rails and ladders, but unable to do so successfully. I had no problem in my early days. I rely more now on epoxys and instant glues (crazy glue). Holding 2 parts while an adhesive sets is almost impossible, like 2 walls of a building. I am trying to design some aids to help in building model structures. Hi Ron AT age 81 now everything shakes not just hands lol. I have clips to hold wires and a good magnifier but it is the small solder pads on the Viessmann light bars that can be difficult as they are close to other small pads which if both touch cause the light bar to blow with a flame and a puff of smoke. Reckon I have fitted about thirty of these and lost three or four but it would be nice to do it easily so will go for a better iron.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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Purellum		#12 Posted : 15 December 2022 12:14:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,500 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse		A good quality of the solder also helps a lot Per.
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Ranjit		#13 Posted : 15 December 2022 16:06:29(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC) Posts: 3,009 Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA		Hey David... Go with either the Weller or the Hakko temperature controlled soldering stations. Don't bother with the rest ! Cheers, Ranjit
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dickinsonj		#14 Posted : 15 December 2022 17:06:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,679 Location: Crozet, Virginia		I agree with Ranjit. I have a Hakko temperature controlled soldering station and it works very well! If one of those can turn me into a soldering pro, it is well worth the cost.
		Regards, Jim I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains! So many trains and so little time.
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Toosmall		#15 Posted : 15 December 2022 23:44:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 614 Location: Sydney		I am not sure what this is called. Maybe someone else has an idea. One could knock up a multi swivel clamping device with a few blocks and bolts.
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applor		#16 Posted : 16 December 2022 04:54:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,654 Location: Brisbane, Queensland		Maybe you're not doing it right? When soldering always add a touch of solder to the tip, then with the tip heat what you want to solder and then apply solder to the wire/object, not the tip. That way the solder melts onto the wire/object and flows into it.
		modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany
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Toosmall		#17 Posted : 16 December 2022 12:06:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 614 Location: Sydney		This Z gauge track was soldered with cheap soldering iron. It would be easier with a good iron. But regardless I pre-tin the wire and surface, so to keep heat to a minimum. Also handy to have at the ready to quickly cool components down if you put too much heat into the job is some freeze spray. https://www.jaycar.com.a...ezing-spray-can/p/NA1000 Additionally, handy to freeze ticks in Australia, never pull them out alive. The tiny little ticks are more difficult to find than the kangaroo ticks which are the size of a finger nail.
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BenP		#18 Posted : 16 December 2022 20:59:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 344 Location: Michigan, Ann Arbor		Originally Posted by: applor Maybe you're not doing it right? When soldering always add a touch of solder to the tip, then with the tip heat what you want to solder and then apply solder to the wire/object, not the tip. That way the solder melts onto the wire/object and flows into it. I have a done a lot (many 100s) of soldering connections with a garden variety iron and found that adding solder (and flux) to wire(s) before attaching (allowing it to 'melt' into a stranded wire or coat a solid wire) and sometimes add a solder dot to destination metal works great. Only requires a brief heating time to connect, so less need for temp-controlled tool and heat damage. (i've found other ways to destroy train electronics, however)
		Digital M (+ some K) track layout with mostly vintage rolling stock and accessories, and small Z scale layout. https://youtube.com/play...0kgVYbh0CeDTF-bYXoD_2-V9
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David Dewar		#19 Posted : 16 December 2022 23:14:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,340 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: applor Maybe you're not doing it right? When soldering always add a touch of solder to the tip, then with the tip heat what you want to solder and then apply solder to the wire/object, not the tip. That way the solder melts onto the wire/object and flows into it. This is what I do but the problem is the pad on the light bar where it does not take well to heat. I try to add a little solder to the pad and tin the wire. This works most of the time but I have damaged some bars and lost two recently. Have ordered a new iron which may help. Just joining wires is easy enough but attaching to other items not so easy but with a new iron and different solder should help. Thanks for all comments.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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