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Offline Puttputtmaru  
#1 Posted : 14 March 2021 21:28:54(UTC)
Puttputtmaru

Canada   
Joined: 15/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 201
Location: Quebec, Montreal
Looking at restarting my old flame into marklin and setting up my new layout in k-tracks.

Should I plan everything, but turnouts of course, with flex track 2205? Any advantages to using anything else?
Offline DaleSchultz  
#2 Posted : 14 March 2021 23:37:30(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
Yes, I found that flex 2205 provided the best value per linear length of K-Track.
To keep them absolutely straight in a station, I push them into the double track Merkur ballast strips.

For hidden areas, I did use fixed radius curves as I already had some, and they are easier to lay perfectly parallel to each other.
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
Offline marklinist5999  
#3 Posted : 14 March 2021 23:45:35(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,137
Location: Michigan, Troy
I model with C track, but only because I beagn with M, and when it was discontinued I had a large start set and two additional exapnders with 4 turnouts. The M to C transition tracks worked well, so I got early C track which I had in storage never used. It is brittle and cracking. When I began re entering the hobby last spring before knowing this, I ordered more.
The new is improved plastic. So I began designing a track plan for expansion with Anyrail software, and Scarm. Both are good. However, much is cut and try anyhow as free lance plans go with curve clearances, etc. Flex track helps with thiese, ans well as tunnel portal clearnaces, and ramps.
K and C track dimemsions are identical if not very similar. I got a Faller Bietschstal bridge and C track has too high a profile for it due to the roadbed. So I measured and got K track for it, and K to C transition tracks. I now have a few clearnace issues to iron out, but flex track is out. I may have to eleiminate a wanted two level mountain tunnel and just have a curing bridge ramp. At first the double track curve clearannce was too close, and long cars were touching as they passed at corner of the inside car to the side of the outer. Just enough to scrape. I got that adjusted. I am also not the best with geometrics and figures.

Choose what you like best and will work best. Flex is great, but more cutting and splicing may be beeded. There are plenty of online tutorials via youtube, etc.
Offline mvd71  
#4 Posted : 14 March 2021 23:57:56(UTC)
mvd71

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,729
Location: Auckland,
Using k track with flex track is definitely the way to go. The ability to create your own geometry is brilliant. And if use with the Merkur road bed it is very easy to get a good looking finish without a lot of work.
Offline JohnjeanB  
#5 Posted : 15 March 2021 02:03:15(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,123
Location: Paris, France
Hi
It is all a matter of taste.
After using C track and Flex K track here are my findings
* Flex K tracks allow to make reality-like curves but the rail is ancient-looking and making electrical connections is a let-down. Ballasting is an obligation, often creating contact problems between flex sections
* K track switches and doubleslip switches are from the past century with very approximate mechanisms
* C track is very reliable, rail size is prototypical, tracks easy to connect, to cut and adapt. C rail Switches and double slip switches have a very good mechanism BUT no sleek double slip switches. Also some plastic parts in the 3 way switch are not the best.

Conclusion: the excellent geometry of the C track and solid binding between rail is a huge plus (adding a lot of reliability allowing also operation of 2 rail DC rolling stock) even if it has some drawbacks. Even with an included track bed, ballasting is advised for realism.

Cheers
Jean
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Offline PeFu  
#6 Posted : 15 March 2021 07:46:39(UTC)
PeFu

Sweden   
Joined: 30/08/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,209
I agree with the previous postings. Laying K tracks takes at least 10 times longer than laying C tracks, including having proper ballast and painting the rails (which IMO is needed due to the rail profile). But if you have the space for those very wide curves AND if you know you have the patience, I would still recommend K tracks.

As Dale, I’m using Merkur ballast strips. You can buy a separate bag of their ballast for adding between double-tracks or ”fixing” at track joins etc. In visible areas, I use 2205 flex only. In shorter hidden curves (R4 or smaller), I use standard tracks. In longer hidden sections, I use C tracks, partly because of the missing R3 K tracks. I solder cables to each flex track. I use an aggressive fluss to enable soldering to the rails. After soldering, it’s important to clean the tracks using isoprop or similar, to remove the fluss. You need a ”Dremel” type of tool for cutting the rails etc. You also need some ”Fohrmann” type of tools to support fixing the flex tracks. At contact tracks, where insulated rail joiners are required, I use Peco SL-11 plastic rail joiners which are also pretty easy to damage.

Concluding this, I believe I need to correct myself: It takes probably 20 times longer laying K tracks... In my opinion, still worth it! I can’t stop staring at trains negotiating these wide curves! (Preventing me from finalising ballast on the upside-down turnout motors as well as the rest of the layout...)

BigGrin



Andreasburg-Mattiasberg Bahn is inspired by Swiss railways |Forum Thread |Track Plan |Youtube | C and K track | CS2 | TrainController Gold V10
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Offline auntmartha  
#7 Posted : 15 March 2021 09:50:42(UTC)
auntmartha

Denmark   
Joined: 29/09/2011(UTC)
Posts: 35
Location: Græsted
flex-track is great for custom made long stretches

LONG stretches where ordinary track-pieces wont do

else - stay away from flex-track

simply isnt worth the effort

and - forget about making custom contact-tracks within
one piece of flextrack - it will ruin the tension and create unwanted bends

also flextrack needs to be screwed securely into the layout in a way
that makes noise-reduction almost impossible, unless you bend
the flextrack only very slightly

i havent done the math but in a straight hidden yard - schattenbahnhof
flextrack could be money-saving
Yours sincerely / Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Bien cordialement
Mr. Christian Vinaa
http://www.vinaa.dk/trains
...... Meanwhile, aunt Martha, having taken a tramp in the woods,
is lying in a ditch at the edge of town .........................
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Offline marklinist5999  
#8 Posted : 15 March 2021 10:38:37(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,137
Location: Michigan, Troy
BigGrin
Originally Posted by: PeFu Go to Quoted Post
I agree with the previous postings. Laying K tracks takes at least 10 times longer than laying C tracks, including having proper ballast and painting the rails (which IMO is needed due to the rail profile). But if you have the space for those very wide curves AND if you know you have the patience, I would still recommend K tracks.

As Dale, I’m using Merkur ballast strips. You can buy a separate bag of their ballast for adding between double-tracks or ”fixing” at track joins etc. In visible areas, I use 2205 flex only. In shorter hidden curves (R4 or smaller), I use standard tracks. In longer hidden sections, I use C tracks, partly because of the missing R3 K tracks. I solder cables to each flex track. I use an aggressive fluss to enable soldering to the rails. After soldering, it’s important to clean the tracks using isoprop or similar, to remove the fluss. You need a ”Dremel” type of tool for cutting the rails etc. You also need some ”Fohrmann” type of tools to support fixing the flex tracks. At contact tracks, where insulated rail joiners are required, I use Peco SL-11 plastic rail joiners which are also pretty easy to damage.

Concluding this, I believe I need to correct myself: It takes probably 20 times longer laying K tracks... In my opinion, still worth it! I can’t stop staring at trains negotiating these wide curves! (Preventing me from finalising ballast on the upside-down turnout motors as well as the rest of the layout...)

BigGrin



absolutely gorgeous! Only in my dreams.
I did a search on Noch merkur road bed. Every dealer website shows it as no longer available from manufacturer.

Offline PeFu  
#9 Posted : 15 March 2021 10:48:45(UTC)
PeFu

Sweden   
Joined: 30/08/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,209
Originally Posted by: marklinist5999 Go to Quoted Post
I did a search on Noch merkur road bed. Every dealer website shows it as no longer available from manufacturer.



I have always ordered Merkur track bed directly from...

Merkur!

Cool
Andreasburg-Mattiasberg Bahn is inspired by Swiss railways |Forum Thread |Track Plan |Youtube | C and K track | CS2 | TrainController Gold V10
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Offline PeFu  
#10 Posted : 15 March 2021 11:04:17(UTC)
PeFu

Sweden   
Joined: 30/08/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,209
Originally Posted by: auntmartha Go to Quoted Post
forget about making custom contact-tracks within
one piece of flextrack - it will ruin the tension and create unwanted bends

This is one of the reasons I use standard tracks for R4 or smaller radius. On larger radius, I always cut the outer rail, where contact tracks are required. This way, if the plastic joiner is not enough to fix the rail, I can add a tiny screw on the outside to hold the rail. You can hide the screw using ballast. In my clip above, there are at least 10 contact tracks within curved flex tracks.

Originally Posted by: auntmartha Go to Quoted Post

also flextrack needs to be screwed securely into the layout in a way
that makes noise-reduction almost impossible, unless you bend
the flextrack only very slightly

My combo of K tracks on Merkur track bed are less noisy than my combo of C tracks on a 2 mm (approx.) rubber layer. Once surrounding terrain is added, I found that (almost) all screws can be removed using Merkur track bed.

Andreasburg-Mattiasberg Bahn is inspired by Swiss railways |Forum Thread |Track Plan |Youtube | C and K track | CS2 | TrainController Gold V10
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by PeFu
Offline DaleSchultz  
#11 Posted : 15 March 2021 13:12:35(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
Originally Posted by: auntmartha Go to Quoted Post

and - forget about making custom contact-tracks within
one piece of flextrack - it will ruin the tension and create unwanted bends

You must be doing it wrong. I have many such contacts.

Originally Posted by: auntmartha Go to Quoted Post

also flextrack needs to be screwed securely into the layout in a way
that makes noise-reduction almost impossible, unless you bend
the flextrack only very slightly

I completely disagree. I do not screw my K-track down at all. It is held in place perfectly by the roadbed.

P1070287.JPG
IMG_20180727_210042.jpg





Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
Offline Puttputtmaru  
#12 Posted : 15 March 2021 14:31:44(UTC)
Puttputtmaru

Canada   
Joined: 15/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 201
Location: Quebec, Montreal
Thanks for the nice response guys.

I was leaning more the flex track way because of curve easement and elevation. I know this will be more work but my patience is not bad.

I will have to experiment with the contact-track problem mentioned above and with the soldering.

I have a starter set C-track coming which I will use as my programming track in the future so I will see how easy they are, may be I will go C-track who knows.

I was into model railroad in a big way in my teens and still have alll my marklin from that time. Now in my 50s so this is a big jump in technology for me. But I like computer and I am pretty good with them.

By the way my hobby right now and still will be is radio control planes/jets and helicopters, my eyesight is getting to be the limiting factor.

Looking forward to getting into Marklin again.
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Offline kiwiAlan  
#13 Posted : 15 March 2021 14:40:01(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,109
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
If using flex track to make curves then it may be worth investing in some Tracksetta gauges to get a constant radius - there is also one to ensure you lay track straight as well.


Offline Puttputtmaru  
#14 Posted : 15 March 2021 14:56:44(UTC)
Puttputtmaru

Canada   
Joined: 15/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 201
Location: Quebec, Montreal
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
If using flex track to make curves then it may be worth investing in some Tracksetta gauges to get a constant radius - there is also one to ensure you lay track straight as well.




Will look into it thanks.
Offline hxmiesa  
#15 Posted : 15 March 2021 19:02:01(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,520
Location: Spain
Originally Posted by: auntmartha Go to Quoted Post
flex-track is great for custom made long stretches
LONG stretches where ordinary track-pieces wont do
else - stay away from flex-track
simply isnt worth the effort

and - forget about making custom contact-tracks within
one piece of flextrack - it will ruin the tension and create unwanted bends

also flextrack needs to be screwed securely into the layout in a way
that makes noise-reduction almost impossible, unless you bend
the flextrack only very slightly

This simply isn't correct. -Or maybe I should just say that "I disagree"... Cool
Anyway, I now see that many other members here have chimed in to disagree too, so, I´m just +1 saying the same...

Tip: To avoid bends where you later cut a flex-track to make contact strips; Pre-BEND the track so that it holds its shape, even without being screwed down. That way when you cut the rail with the Dremel, nothing happens!
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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