I have a 1960’s basic 3000 locomotive that had a decoder added in the 90’s. It has been cleaned in the last month and ran fine. Yesterday, It would not start unless pushed a little. But, even then when switched to reverse it would not run and then had to be push started once switched to forward operation. This is the original SFCM motor. I am guessing that it may be the decoder rather than the motor. Can anyone more knowledgeable in digital shed some possible light on this issue?

Yes the lights work. Until it has been reversed. Then when going back to forward (the only lights that is has are in front) the lights do not work. As if it is not getting any power. No noise when power is applied. Until it starts to run. Then normal sounds for the speed. I cleaned the commutator, the housing, the brushes along with the brush holders and applied one drop of oil to each motor bearing and then the gears. Then it was run around the track and has stayed on the track since, being run almost every day. Once running, either forward or backward, it will continue to run at medium speed. At slower speeds it has problems with certain parts of the track. Always the same places. The other three locomotives do not have issues on these sections of track. The pick-up for the third rail does have some indentations at the very front and rear of the pick-up. This is the oldest locomotive that I have and I do not remember it ever having been replaced. I am starting to think that the pick-up may be the culprit as no other locomotives have any indentations. While the center of the pickup should be making contact even if the front and rear sections may not, maybe there are portions of track that have low center studs in these places and it is not getting power at these points due to the wear on the pick-up shoe. I cannot tell that this is so. But, the center studs may not be off by much and the indentations are not picking up power as well. That would explain why it does not cross these sections at slow speed. But does at medium to fast speed. Because momentum cars it a or the bad section. Does that sound plausible? It still would not answer why setting the locomotive to reverse, at any point in the track would kill the power. Or, why the other three locomotives do not have this problem even at slow speeds. Whether that is the problem, or not, I have a new pick-up on order to test this theory. It just seems strange that it started doing this all at once.

As you have cleaned it did you put the brushes back in the motor?

A common mistake reported several times in this forum ...

Brushes are in the motor. It has been running fine and this is a new problem after having been run for 3-4 weeks after the cleaning. This is the one that my parents gave me so it has some sentimental value. If needed I will replace the motor and/or decoder. After I try the pick-up shoe. Thanks for your ideas.

Thank you for possible fixes. But, the brushes are in the correct holes and it will run in reverse. Just not without a push. It starts out running forward, wil not reverse and then typically wil not then go forward when reversed again. At that point the lights are not on even when going forward. It is like the peer has been cut when I attempt to switch to backward running. I will however try me brushes.

when you said you've cleaned the motor what di you actually do ? did you clean the armature — yes, took the motor apart, cleaned the housing, commutator, gaps between three separate plates (SFCM) and brushes

make sure the reversing unit spring is in order —. No reversing spring as this locomotive has a decoder

have you checked the wiring ? — No, but it ran for almost a month after cleaning in both forward and reverse and it runs now after giving it a nudge. Unless the wiring is separating when becoming hot, I doubt that is the reason. And it only stops running after being switched to reverse

does the brush springs have the right tension ? — there is tension on the brushes. How do you measure the correct tension? I doubt that my trigger gauge would register the tension on the brush springs

Hi
May be this video on maintenance of a Märklin 3000 loco could help

Cheers
Jean

If I remember my 3000, it had one bulb at the front with three headlights and the tender had 3 silver painted headlights, but there was no bulb or light channel for the rear lights.

This is in German, but might be helpful:


Do you have an analog transformer (white) that you can test it with?

I am wondering what kind of oil you used. Is it possible that the oil has congealed during the past month?

I need to ask whether your model is the older one with the round brushes or is the 1970s to 1990s one with the rectangular brushes?
I guess that the first question is was the correct brush replaced on the correct side?
With one of my Re 4/4IIs (34341), there was too much tension on the brushes and it worked like new once I pulled back on the little spring (wire) that was pressing on the right brush.

You said that there was no unusual smell (no burnt oil, no carbon smell). That should be a good sign.
When you cleaned the motor, did you remove/handle the rotor? If one of the wires was damaged, it could have burnt out over the month and is now no longer properly functioning.

I am also wondering whether the rods may not be straight and maybe causing resistance when the motor is trying to start to move. If you remove the rotor, you can test to see whether the model rolls freely when gently pushed or pulled by another locomotive.

Do you have three or four new or relatively unused sections of track. Can you connect this to your transformer and test the locomotive on that track.
That will hopefully remove any track issues as potential causes.

If you are still having trouble and you are from Washington, TX, get in touch with Armando in Houston. Perhaps he can help you by phone.
There used to be a dealer in College Station, but I don't see them on the list any more.
The closest one I could recommend would be AJCKids, but I know that is a few hours drive.

Can you post a photo of the model with the top off (internals) as well as a photo of the underside?

I asked Jacques Vuyes if he might be able to contribute to this topic.

Thanks

Mike C

change the slider

[img]Her are the shots of the 3000 locomotive. The shop that did this connected the 6080 decoder to the existing wires instead of replacing the Irgun all black wires completely. Therefore the green wire that shows in the pictures as a ground is attached to the brown wire from the decoder. The grey wire for the rear light is unattached since there is no rear light. The blue and green wires are attached to the two black wires from the coil. Again, this locomotive was running correctly until just the other day.



If the photos do not come through someone will have to tell me how to do so.

I noticed one spot that might need a little lubrication



Based on the photos, I agree that the slider has seen better days and may not be making full contact with the studs.

Mike C

Last thing: looking at the third picture, the capacitor (the brown "pearl" is a potential short circuit hazard, it should not be placed like that.
And it could potentially interfere with the brushes' springs.
That may be the problem,
Those capacitors are really of no use today, so you can just cut them out!

So, as I read it you are suggesting the original poster sends a 60 year old 3000 locomotive back to Marklin for repair.

OK................

Let us know how that works out for you.....

Jvuye

The green wire is an extension of the brown for the ground. The decoder green and blue are connected to opposite sides of the coil. The shop that did this 20 years ago connected the decoder wires to the existing wires instead of hooking the decoder wires directly to where they need to go. I am getting set to rectify that and clean up the connections.

The capacitor arms are under the brush springs and do not contact them. Regardless, I will take them off if they are not required. Is it just the one under the brush springs that is superfluous? Or can both of them be removed?

I am also ordering a new slider and brushes to bring them up to new.

Thank you for your input. I have this one and a 3034 locomotive that are both 60 years old and have sentimental value

What do you mean?
TS old 3000 has been renovate before too when somebody did add a decoder in the 90´s.
When i take look at the pictures i see a lot of grease on the locomotive that needs a new renovate again.
And i real mean 100% fix the locomotive.

No it is not ludicrous.
Either fix the problem by renovate or buy a new BR 89 for about 90 euro?
There is a new BR 89 itemnr 30000 for about 90 euro.

Thank you everyone. After taking the motor and decoder out i found the cuplrit. Two worn teeth on the gear shown below.

Does anyone know if this gear can still be found? I know it is not cost efficient. But, this one has sentimental value.

Try here for replacement part: http://ajckids.com/

Here it is.

Part # 21677
Brand new , and it's the original design in metal.
Ready to go. It will be more useful to you than to me , since I don't do Märklin repairs anymore.



If we can figure a way to get you the tools to do it properly, I'll help you with the tricks of the trade.
Can always drop this in a jiffy envelope.
No need to do a double transatlantic voyage to Göppingen to fix it.
Cheers
Jacques

If you had properly read the thread and understood what the OP is requesting you would know that he wants to fix the loco because of its sentimental value, rather than spouting nonsense about sending 60 year old locos back to Marklin or suggesting the OP buys a new one when that isn't what he asked.

We have a saying here often attributed to Mark Twain - 'Better to Remain Silent and Be Thought a Fool than to Speak and Remove All Doubt!' I think it applies in this case.

BTW, the 30000 loco is currently not in stock at Marklin - you didn't check that either, did you?