Welcome to the forum   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Share
Options
View
Go to last post in this topic Go to first unread post in this topic
Offline Den1z  
#1 Posted : 19 July 2020 13:34:56(UTC)
Den1z

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: England, Leicester
Hi, I bought some led lights to put into a 8820 ( bought with non functional lights, and found bulbs missing when body removed). However the circuit board inside is not what I expected in that it does not have the the metal covers with diodes underneath at each end. It also has long copper tongues at each end.
Is anyone familiar with this circuit board? Would it have been original or has it been removed from another loco? I will attempt to attach a photo of mine.
8137 marklin.JPG
Offline Crazy Harry  
#2 Posted : 19 July 2020 22:06:03(UTC)
Crazy Harry

Canada   
Joined: 18/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 476
Location: Oakville, Ontario
It looks just like the instruction sheet and exploded views from the Marlin website. f1a84d238c0b6cad2af8045bd24992fa1434542599.pdf (440kb) downloaded 36 time(s). 071845c228fb821c6016139faf5cad651434542352.pdf (61kb) downloaded 25 time(s).
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Crazy Harry
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#3 Posted : 19 July 2020 22:26:04(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Den1z Go to Quoted Post
Hi, I bought some led lights to put into a 8820 ( bought with non functional lights, and found bulbs missing when body removed). However the circuit board inside is not what I expected in that it does not have the the metal covers with diodes underneath at each end. It also has long copper tongues at each end.
Is anyone familiar with this circuit board? Would it have been original or has it been removed from another loco?


I'm not familiar with the circuit board, but judging by the selector switch thing, it was originally from an electric loco. Also judging from the 180 Ohm resistor on the board, it is "expecting" LED lights.

In any case, my advice would be to fit the LED lights you have and see what happens. Whatever it is, it won't damage anything.

Hope this is of help


Chris
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#4 Posted : 19 July 2020 22:41:20(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Looking at the photo again, I'm certain that the circuit board is not original and is for an LED illuminated loco. The two copper "tabs" would normally contact onto the LED PCB mounted on the chassis.

Assuming you're using the CK LED boards, you'll need on of those tabs to contact onto the top of the CK module and the other tab to contact the bottom. The two contacts on each side of the PCB are connected together, so it won't matter which you use. If you choose the wrong contact going to each surface, it will make the module light up for the wrong direction of travel, though, so be wary of that.

As this is a bit of a "Frankenstein" model, there's no easy way of connecting and supporting the CK LED module. In your shoes I would just solder it to the tabs, having bent them into a suitable position, but if you're not confident with a soldering iron you may not wish to do that.

I notice you're in the UK, so if all else fails, I'm very happy to do the work for you if you can get the loco to me one way or another.

Good luck!


Chris
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
Offline Den1z  
#5 Posted : 20 July 2020 02:22:49(UTC)
Den1z

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: England, Leicester
Thanks folks for the input. From what I have found out and from comments on here confirming same I assume it is not the original circuit board I will experiment with connection, may need to remove or isolate the connections that would hit the bottom of the ckleds board. If all else fails I will look into sending it off to Chris.
Thank you.
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#6 Posted : 20 July 2020 09:37:41(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Thinking about this a bit more and looking at the service notes Crazy Harry linked to, I think you may be able to do this without resorting to soldering.

If you look at the picture on the bottom left of page 3 you can see the metal tabs of the original circuit board bend back on themselves to clamp the light module onto the chassis, and I think you should be able to bend the contacts of your PCB to do the same. The only complication is that you will need to insulate one of the contacts from the LED module. In your picture these are the contacts on the lower edge of the board in line with the 180 Ohm resistor (the black thing marked "181"). As I have access to these things, I'd probably fit a small piece of heat-shrink tubing, but you could do it with a tiny piece of insulating tape or even Sellotape.

Hope this is helpful and encouraging. As I said, very happy to help in any way I can.

All the best


Chris

Edited by user 20 July 2020 19:40:32(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
Offline Den1z  
#7 Posted : 20 July 2020 11:00:31(UTC)
Den1z

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: England, Leicester
Thanks Chris, I will investigate further and experiment today, but that later solution sounds a good idea. Thank you.
Cheers
Graeme

Offline Den1z  
#8 Posted : 20 July 2020 17:28:45(UTC)
Den1z

United Kingdom   
Joined: 19/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 4
Location: England, Leicester
All sorted now. As per Chris's suggestion I bent one of the tongues on each end to sit under the Ckled pcb and the other adjusted to sit neatly on top. As the chassis has contacts as well for the bottom of the bulb I placed a small piece of 0.5mm plasticard over them to insulate them from the bottom of the Ckled pcb. Took a couple of attempts to bend the correct tongue to get the buld lighting correct for direction. I imagine I will need to revisit as I can see vibration dislodging the lleds.
I had one panic moment when one corner would not show a light when the body was fitted, turn out the little lens had fell out from inside the body, luckily I found it on my work boards and its now glued back in with the light shining through.
Thanks again for all the help.
cheers
Graeme
link to video and then picture off led below.

led fit.jpg
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Den1z
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#9 Posted : 21 July 2020 09:58:20(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Den1z Go to Quoted Post
All sorted now. I bent one of the tongues on each end to sit under the Ckled pcb and the other adjusted to sit neatly on top. As the chassis has contacts as well for the bottom of the bulb I placed a small piece of 0.5mm plasticard over them to insulate them from the bottom of the Ckled pcb. Took a couple of attempts to bend the correct tongue to get the buld lighting correct for direction.


Excellent, Graeme! Glad to hear you got it all working to your satisfaction.

All the best


Chris

Edited by user 21 July 2020 19:32:49(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

| Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2024, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.546 seconds.