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stickers66		#1 Posted : 12 June 2020 05:37:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		I have a little 260 diesel loco that came with Marklin 8134. It's been running like a champ, but all of a sudden tonight it's not working. I saw a little puff of smoke. I wouldn't say it's seized up, but seem to just get warm and not run. Did I fry something on it? Should I open it up and have a look? Can something like this happen to a loco, and what would be the cause? Should I try to get it to run again, or would i just end up making it worse by putting current through it?
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Bigdaddynz		#2 Posted : 12 June 2020 06:02:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,778 Location: New Zealand		Smoke coming out of something is usually bad, it means something has cooked due to a short or a component failure. You probably won't do much good to it trying to put current through the loco until you open it up, find out what went wrong and fix it.
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stickers66		#3 Posted : 12 June 2020 06:08:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Yup, I don't think it's good either. What can cause a short on an engine like this? Also, wonder how to open this one up. It has the little spring pin on the end I can get the chassis somewhat lifted off, but not entirely.
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stickers66		#4 Posted : 12 June 2020 07:08:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Managed to get the top off. Put it on the track again and get a few spins in either direction. But the motor itself gets very hot. Could I have a short right in the engine housing itself?
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river6109		#5 Posted : 12 June 2020 12:19:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,916 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		have you oiled the loco lately ?
		https://www.youtube.com/river6109 https://www.youtube.com/6109river 5 years in Destruction mode 50 years in Repairing mode
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stickers66		#6 Posted : 12 June 2020 16:51:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Just after it seized up. Could I be too little too late, or is that all it needed maybe? I will try it again today.
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Zme		#7 Posted : 12 June 2020 17:41:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi Perhaps this will help: Maybe your brushes are just spent. If the armature is damaged, it might be expensive to repair. Removal of the armature requires a special tool. Best wishes
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stickers66		#8 Posted : 12 June 2020 17:44:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Thanks for this. Will have a look. Won't spend too much on this little guy. It does well on my little layout and has some power. But might look for a BR 212 or similar with a 5-pole motor.
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Poor Skeleton		#9 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:09:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: stickers66 Managed to get the top off. Put it on the track again and get a few spins in either direction. But the motor itself gets very hot. Could I have a short right in the engine housing itself? If it's getting hot, it's not a short and the fact that it runs a bit in each direction implies it's a mechanical problem. I've had this behaviour when some muck (technical term) gets into the gear train. It can also happen if the coupling rods get misaligned. If it was mine, I'd have taken it apart and be swearing profusely by now, but will probably eventually find some foreign matter in the gears and feel like a hero when it has been removed and the loco is running perfectly again. It sounds like this is very repairable, hopefully you can find someone nearby to do this if you don't feel comfortable undertaking it yourself. Cheers Chris
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stickers66		#10 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:21:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		This is a very good suggestion. I'm one of those people constantly working my my layout - while also running the trains - the only way I would do this hobby. Right or wrong, it's what I do. There could very well be some cork board that got sucked into the gear housing. Will check tonight - with lots of light and a bit catch-all bin for the microscopic springs and such that will fly loose. I'll keep you posted!
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Poor Skeleton		#11 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:38:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: stickers66 This is a very good suggestion. I'm one of those people constantly working my my layout - while also running the trains - the only way I would do this hobby. Right or wrong, it's what I do. There could very well be some cork board that got sucked into the gear housing. Will check tonight - with lots of light and a bit catch-all bin for the microscopic springs and such that will fly loose. I'll keep you posted! Someone told me to disassemble these things in a polythene bag to contain the escapees - good advice that has served me well! However, following my confident reply I remembered the puff of smoke you mentioned, which isn't consistent with my debris in the gears conclusion. My best guess to account for that is worn motor bushes, the smoke coinciding with the last fragment of carbon breaking off the brush and the motor now being partially jammed. Still very repairable, but you'll need to look in a different place. I bought a head-worn magnifier from ebay for about £15 and it is a real asset when working on Z gauge stuff! Good luck! Chris
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Poor Skeleton		#12 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:42:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: stickers66 I'm one of those people constantly working my my layout - while also running the trains - the only way I would do this hobby. Right or wrong, it's what I do. There could very well be some cork board that got sucked into the gear housing. I'm absolutely with you - running trains is what it's all about! I know I'd not have stuck at the long haul of building my layout if I'd not been able to regularly run trains!
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husafreak		#13 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:51:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		Great thing about Marklin is you can get whatever parts you need to fix it.
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husafreak		#14 Posted : 14 June 2020 18:38:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		Were you able to isolate the fault? FWIW my entry into model trains was buying older Marklin Z and I got to fix a few of them. I really enjoyed the challenge (strangely enough) so I would love to see yours fixed ;) I'm betting its a broken brush...
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stickers66		#15 Posted : 15 June 2020 04:34:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Looks like we are back in business. A bit of oil and reseated the gearing. Might be that that round contact thing at the front might have come loose. She runs again, also the reverse is now a bit clunky. I may post a video. But glad to see I have a working loco again.
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husafreak		#16 Posted : 15 June 2020 16:50:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		Ah, ye old capacitor. Reseated gearing? I had one loco that had a press fit motor, not screwed in place, caused trouble, but that was a newer model then yours I think. I have a 5 pole steam loco that has puffed out smoke every time I cleaned/oiled it. It appears that every bit of oil I ever put on it ends up on the commutator and then burns, that is a funny loco, if it starts running slow then I’ll check it and it will be hot, I’ll clean the brushes and commutator and oil it sparingly (Not the motor) and then it will smoke a bit and run fine for months. Weird.
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Poor Skeleton		#17 Posted : 15 June 2020 23:01:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: stickers66 Looks like we are back in business. A bit of oil and reseated the gearing. Might be that that round contact thing at the front might have come loose. She runs again, also the reverse is now a bit clunky. I may post a video. Is it possible that in reseating the gearing you got the wheels a bit out of sync? That can cause a loco to run fine in one direction but not the other if it's bad enough to make the coupling rods bind at any point. Cheers Chris
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stickers66		#18 Posted : 15 June 2020 23:03:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Very possible. I will check later but going to leave alone for now before taking apart again. Already lost one coupler spring ;)
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Poor Skeleton		#19 Posted : 16 June 2020 09:36:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: stickers66 Very possible. I will check later but going to leave alone for now before taking apart again. Already lost one coupler spring ;) What did I tell you about disassembling inside a polythene bag? Cheers Chris
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stickers66		#20 Posted : 16 June 2020 17:24:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		A this point I may as well get in the bag myself ;)
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Poor Skeleton		#21 Posted : 16 June 2020 19:49:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: stickers66 Very possible. I will check later but going to leave alone for now before taking apart again. Already lost one coupler spring ;) I'm not familiar with the V60 model, but most of the steam tank engines have a plastic compound gear and I have had one of these loose a tooth and cause "lumpy" running which can be worse in one direction than the other. Not sure how you'd fix that, though, other than by returning the loco to Marklin, which is what I did with mine. As for the missing spring, I think I have some spares somewhere so if you want to PM me your address I can pop a couple in the post for you. Cheers Chris
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stickers66		#22 Posted : 16 June 2020 19:53:42(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Lovely gesture, thank you. But I have an order pending with Z.Scale.Hobo for some other stuff and threw in an order of springs as well. They're not cheap, but won't be the last spring I lose.
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Zme		#23 Posted : 17 June 2020 06:20:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi Just a small suggestion for when you are reassembling: Add a small dot of superglue on the post at the end of the coupler and stick the spring on it. This will hold the two together. Just use the glue sparingly and let it dry together before reassembling this part. Works for me. Best wishes
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stickers66		#24 Posted : 17 June 2020 07:16:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2019(UTC) Posts: 34 Location: British Columbia, Vancouver		Great advice, thank you!
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Rickmann		#25 Posted : 22 October 2020 15:26:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Hello everyone, I'm new to this scale and still with lots of doubts. Hope you may help me. I have purchased recently a used starter in an auction. Unfortunately my German isn't as good as it was in the past, so a failed to notice that the locomotive wasn't working. My bad!! Since I am a very resorcefull guy I will fix it, and replace the defective parts. After disassembling the little bugger I believe that the engine as burned. How can I test it? Is it possible that the problem is in the condensator? For these little Diesel 260 (Marklin 88641 and similar ones) what is the correct replacement engine? Is it the E207650 MAGNETSYSTEM? I imagine it is, since it is the most expensive spare. Where can I buy such a thing? Are there compatible engines? Thank you very much for your help Ricardo - Portugal
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husafreak		#26 Posted : 22 October 2020 17:15:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		Welcome! Lots of advice in this thread and forum for you. Being able to work on these tiny engines is almost a prerequisite to Z scale modeling, I applaud your “I will fix it” attitude ;) When trying to get one of these running again we usually attempt to clean old hardened oil from the locos first. Search HOS. Pay strict attention to assembly details like arrangement of the drive rods. Take some pictures. A nine volt battery is a great asset. Once the drag of the wheels and gearing are removed if your motor spins then it is OK. Brushes can be removed and visually checked. It would be unusual for a capacitor to fail. Your loco is on the Marklin website with part numbers etc. Try not to lose any small parts! Good luck let us know how it goes and do not be afraid to start a new thread for your new loco restoration project.
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husafreak		#27 Posted : 22 October 2020 17:18:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		I should have said your motor should run with the 9 v applied to it. In either direction without driving the gearing. If it can’t turn with the gearing but it can without the gearing then you may have hardened oil. Also I hate to say but you cannot assume the loco has not been tampered with. So even initially look to see that everything is in place properly because all too often failed attempts at fixing these locos are sold off.
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Rickmann		#28 Posted : 22 October 2020 17:28:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Originally Posted by: husafreak Welcome! Lots of advice in this thread and forum for you. Being able to work on these tiny engines is almost a prerequisite to Z scale modeling, I applaud your “I will fix it” attitude ;) When trying to get one of these running again we usually attempt to clean old hardened oil from the locos first. Search HOS. Pay strict attention to assembly details like arrangement of the drive rods. Take some pictures. A nine volt battery is a great asset. Once the drag of the wheels and gearing are removed if your motor spins then it is OK. Brushes can be removed and visually checked. It would be unusual for a capacitor to fail. Your loco is on the Marklin website with part numbers etc. Try not to lose any small parts! Good luck let us know how it goes and do not be afraid to start a new thread for your new loco restoration project. Thank you for your suggestion. I will do it during this weekend. These small scale projects allow me to switch off my brain and relax (I am a healthcare professional in a COVID hospital, so trust me, I really need it). Best Regards. Ricardo Santos Portugal
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Zme		#29 Posted : 22 October 2020 18:18:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hello Yes, you will find great information on this site to help solve your problem with this engine. Here is a parts diagram for this locomotive. https://static.maerklin....580c79bcdb1434542601.pdf Unfortunately Marklin may not have many parts available, so you may need to locate another source if parts are actually needed to get it working. Here is the Marklin store locator website if needed, just search for your location. https://www.maerklin.de/...tore-locator/?no_cache=1 Best wishes. I agree, these small problems are great stress relievers. Dwight Edited by user 23 October 2020 01:22:51(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Rickmann		#30 Posted : 22 October 2020 18:53:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Thanks for the tips Dwight
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Rickmann		#31 Posted : 23 October 2020 23:16:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Hello everybody So i took-apart my Märklin 8864 without any problem. I did it inside a plastic bag (Wise move). The engine wiring seems ok (first picture), although it has a white “stuff” that i don’t recognize (second picture). After removing cogs and weels, i can turn easily the axis of the engine, so it is not stuck. I would like to test the electrical engine individualy, but both poles seem to connect in the same “neck “ (Tip of the tweezer in third picture). If my knowledge of electrical circuits is correct, that would short-circuit. Questions: 1. Where are the poles of the engine? 2. What should i test next? Thank you.
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Poor Skeleton		#32 Posted : 23 October 2020 23:38:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: Rickmann Questions: 1. Where are the poles of the engine? 2. What should i test next? If you look carefully at the part of the motor that the brushes contact upon you will see it is split into three sections. If you measure the resistance between the opposite contacts you should see about 20 Ohms - make sure you check this with the motor in all three positions. If any measure a lot less or a lot more than this there is probably a problem with the motor. I have one old motor and I t think the magnets have lost their magnetism - it runs but poorly and better in one direction than the other, so that could be a problem with yours, too. Hope that's some help! Chris
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Rickmann		#33 Posted : 23 October 2020 23:44:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Thank you Chris. That was very helpfull. Will try.
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husafreak		#34 Posted : 23 October 2020 23:45:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		Instal brushes and touch wires from a 9 volt battery to each brush? It should run. Nice tip about measuring with an Ohm meter! Don’t see the “white stuff” you mentioned but that could be congealed oil.
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Zme		#35 Posted : 24 October 2020 07:01:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi. I recently got a “new” 8864 frame and it obviously has not been used and it has that white substance on it. I was wondering if it was a type of sealer to keep the windings in place. Best wishes Dwight
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kiwiAlan		#36 Posted : 24 October 2020 15:22:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,700 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot		Originally Posted by: Zme Hi. I recently got a “new” 8864 frame and it obviously has not been used and it has that white substance on it. I was wondering if it was a type of sealer to keep the windings in place. Best wishes Dwight Are you sure it is not zinkpest? i haven't heard of this happening to Z gauge items, but it could be possible. As it is a 4 digit model number it will be quite old (it is around 30 years since Marklin started changing to 5 digit model numbers, but the change wasn't instantaneous).
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Zme		#37 Posted : 24 October 2020 16:47:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi Do you think where the zinc metal frame and armature come together (or the armature itself)there is a oxidation of some kind? It does seem rather larger than would be needed. I don’t think it could be easily cleaned off. Best wishes. Dwight
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Rickmann		#38 Posted : 24 October 2020 19:34:40(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Hello, here goes two photos of the “white stuff”. Even without cogs and wells, with power attached to the brushes, it will not spin. I assume the engine is fried. Where can i find a 5 pole replacement? I will need dedicated brushes too, right? How will i remove the engine from the chassis? It looks like it was bolted there. Thanks
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Rickmann		#39 Posted : 24 October 2020 19:38:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Originally Posted by: Zme Hi. I recently got a “new” 8864 frame and it obviously has not been used and it has that white substance on it. I was wondering if it was a type of sealer to keep the windings in place. Best wishes Dwight Are you sure it is not zinkpest? i haven't heard of this happening to Z gauge items, but it could be possible. As it is a 4 digit model number it will be quite old (it is around 30 years since Marklin started changing to 5 digit model numbers, but the change wasn't instantaneous). Hello Alan Can you point me to good shops in England. The postage is cheaper than the USA and there is no customs. Thank you
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Poor Skeleton		#40 Posted : 24 October 2020 23:56:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 604 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: Rickmann Can you point me to good shops in England. The postage is cheaper than the USA and there is no customs. Thank you Remember we (the UK) are no longer in the UK so shipping won't be trouble free from January. www.lokmuseum.de are very good and have a good selection of spares. There is also a 5-pole armature up on ebay at the moment, but you do have to solve the problem of pulling the worm gear and fitting it to the new armature. http://www.zscale.org/articles/fivepole.html might be of some help. Good luck! Chris
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Rickmann		#41 Posted : 25 October 2020 00:33:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Thanks again Chris.
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Zme		#42 Posted : 25 October 2020 01:21:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi. I don’t know the part number but there is a possibility to purchase this frame with the armature and gear already installed. Perhaps used 3 pole or unused 5 pole motors. The five poles could be dealers new old stock. If you find this, the parts removed from your old frame could be transferred to this frame. These parts have moved into the secondary market, and might be a challenge to locate. An internet search might be Gussgestell für 8864 or your Marklin model number. I have never attempted it but I don’t know if I would have the tools and skills to handle this task. I know this is what z scale is all about, accepting the challenge. That special gear pulling tool is not cheap. Hard to say how often it will be used. I used to purchase used and new parts from this site until they recently decided not to ship to the USA. Axel Riemann is a professional, he will assist you. I thought there was a recent change in tax laws on these used parts. https://www.ersatzteile-1zu220.de/shop/ I am sure things will come out, let’s us know your progress Best wishes Dwight
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Rickmann		#43 Posted : 25 October 2020 01:51:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Thanks Dwight.
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husafreak		#44 Posted : 25 October 2020 02:20:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		Sorry to hear your motor is kaput. I’m not sure I would be willing to invest in special tools like gear pullers. At this point if it were me I would either send it to a service pro (like Z Scale Hobo in the USA or Lockmuseum in Europe) or find another loco and be happy about about the others cars you got for a nice price! Also hate to ask but do the cars that came with this set have metal or plastic wheels? When I first started in Z I was given a few Marklin cars but a couple of them swayed visibility on track and were prone to derailments, they had plastic wheels.
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Zme		#45 Posted : 25 October 2020 18:10:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi I finally looked up your engine 88641 and I can understand your liking it so much. It is not one which I have seen recently. It is not often that wheel insets are black. Which set was this a part of? I recently purchased a 212 with the Cargo livery. I just wanted to remind you, the wheels and shell can be transferred to a different frame with no issues. Just be careful when removing the small plastic platform on the frame called the insulator, they break easily. Unless your five pole insulator if different, I discovered more success was possible if you apply pressure to the rear (towards the motor)and then upward. No need adding another item to your repair bill, even if it is just about $10. I often have the thought, these items need to be kept as original as possible, but I know this would be impossible. I found the gear removal tool on Amazon website for about $40.00 US dollars. The repair armature is only about $20.00. A frame with a 5 pole in it is hard to find right now. I have discovered, if you just put it aside for now, sooner or later, one will turn up. The only issue is, as these parts become more and more scarce, the price may keep going up. I have noticed a raise in the cost of everything recently. EBay.de may have something one day, there are listings for 3 pole frames right now. If you watch, you may find a bargain. I agree with husafeak, sometimes there is just a point where the cost is to high to repair compared to the returned value. When working, these little engines are smooth and powerful but have a limited ability to pull a large number of coaches. With the opposing drive rods, they are still very interesting to watch perhaps in a yard switching coaches etc. Best wishes. Dwight Edited by user 25 October 2020 22:08:45(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Rickmann		#46 Posted : 26 October 2020 14:25:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Engine, Brushes and gear puller all ordered. I WILL REPAIR IT. The first one is the hardest, from there on it will be a piece of cake. Also, I am a fairly good modeler, so maybe it will be cheaper for me to buy disabled locomotives and repair them. Sure it will be a lot more fun, than just buying and putting them to roll. Hehehehehehehe. (You can say it, I'm crazy) Best Regards to all
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Rickmann		#47 Posted : 26 October 2020 14:29:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Originally Posted by: husafreak Sorry to hear your motor is kaput. I’m not sure I would be willing to invest in special tools like gear pullers. At this point if it were me I would either send it to a service pro (like Z Scale Hobo in the USA or Lockmuseum in Europe) or find another loco and be happy about about the others cars you got for a nice price! Also hate to ask but do the cars that came with this set have metal or plastic wheels? When I first started in Z I was given a few Marklin cars but a couple of them swayed visibility on track and were prone to derailments, they had plastic wheels. I found a used Gear Puller in a Portuguese on-line auction for just 12€. So it will not be a problem. The cars came with metal wheels.
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Zme		#48 Posted : 26 October 2020 15:14:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 901 Location: West Texas		Hi Good luck with that! Let us know how it goes. Dwight
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husafreak		#49 Posted : 26 October 2020 16:04:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 569 Location: California, Bay Area		That's the spirit! With the right tools, parts, and patience, easy peasy. Glad to hear you got metal wheels too. I hated to bring it up but you didn't, and now you know ;) One thing I really enjoy is you have come to the forum, and you are keeping us posted, we love this kind of stuff!
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Rickmann		#50 Posted : 03 November 2020 15:00:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/10/2020(UTC) Posts: 49 Location: Guarda, Guarda		Originally Posted by: husafreak That's the spirit! With the right tools, parts, and patience, easy peasy. Glad to hear you got metal wheels too. I hated to bring it up but you didn't, and now you know ;) One thing I really enjoy is you have come to the forum, and you are keeping us posted, we love this kind of stuff! Bad news I need your help, last weekend, with the proper tools and a spare engine I ordered from Germany, I went to my first repair attempt. Disassembled the locomotive, removed the old 3 pole engine, replaced with the new one, connected with a new worm gear and new brushes. Assembled everything and ....nothing. Went back to check, double check and triple check everything. Realized that the cogs and wells were a little stuck, so I removed them to test just the engine (without wells). Still nothing. A read that it was useful to hand crank the engine for a while to remove any grease from the brushes and the "neck" of the engine. Still nothing. With a very gentle file, I worked the brushes and the engine "neck". Still nothing. Did I miss anything? I handle daily all sorts of ventilators, vital sign monitors, medicine automated pumps, etc, so I am quite skillful with these things, but I must confess I felt a little frustrated.... The new 5 pole engine had a white stain (zinc pest ???) in one of the sides. Is this a sign of some age??? I appreciate all the help you can provide.
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