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husafreak		#1 Posted : 17 April 2020 17:49:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I just received my first loop of Marklin C track from an Amazon seller, advertised as new track. Three of the R1 30 degree curves had broken parts at the end, two are very minor small pieces missing, the plates that are beside the stirrup under the track, but one has the entire "stirrup" and part of the textured side of the track broken off. The seller claims that they are not responsible for damage done in shipping. sure. I have several questions. First how is Marklin C track normally sold? These were bundled directly against each other wrapped in tissue paper and bubble wrap. So, is Marklin C track normally sold "loose" or individually in boxes/blister packs? Second, how fragile is this stuff? Could a bubble wrapped piece of track be broken by just shaking or dropping it? The box it shipped in was fine. Third, what is the best technique to assemble or disassemble C track without breaking it? Because it sure looks like my "new" track was broken during assembly/disassembly before being sent to me! Thanks, I'd like to be able to handle this Amazon QC issue in a knowledgeable fashion.
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zofman		#2 Posted : 17 April 2020 18:13:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 26 Location: Diemen the Netherlands		C-track from before 2006 were not the right chemical composition. On the bottom of the track there is a circel witch indicates the year of production. On the straight 24188 you can recognise the markings: If it says 24188 and made in germany then it is an old track. If it says 188 its the newer version Märklin had a swap period, but that has ended several years ago. Hope you can return the stuff! Jan
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Danlake		#3 Posted : 17 April 2020 21:02:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571		When putting tracks together: Lay the 2 pieces on a flat surface and slide one into the other (they will click together). When dismantling tracks: Imagine you got 2 pieces of straight track connected on a flat surface. To take a part put hold the tracks (one with each hand) away from where they join and lift the tracks upward so the joining connection is pointing down wards. You are basically creating a slight V shape and the joining part will easily un click. Best Regards Lasse
		Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives.
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ocram63_uk		#4 Posted : 17 April 2020 23:16:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 704 Location: England, Suffolk		when I buy tracks from Marklin if it is 10 straight they send me a box. If they are single pieces they send them in plastic envelopes. They are not individually wrapped in plury ball. The box is stuffed internally so that they don't 'slosh around while intransit. Nevere received a broken track
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husafreak		#5 Posted : 18 April 2020 01:31:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		Thanks everyone, I determined that I got 8 pieces old recalled track and 8 pieces of new composition track. And the broken track was from old stock. I am in dialog with the seller and we’ll see how that goes but he is either a bit dishonest or doesn’t know. But he is selling it as a New Marklin complete set track oval and obviously it is a mishmash of track pieces. He is advertising as a full service hobby shop. I didn’t buy used track on flea bay just to avoid a situation such as this! LOL It’s always something right? But here in the states we have a little problem that Amazon is becoming more like ebay, they do not police their sellers. In the beginning it was online shopping and home delivery for established shops but in their greed to own it all they are allowing black market and unscrupulous sellers that would otherwise sell on ebay. But generally buyer protection is good on Amazon. FWIW I normally shop direct, but I could not find a simple oval starter set for Marklin C track from the shops I buy from, so I googled it and this set popped up on Amazon. But it is not real. I’m guessing Marklin does not do a basic oval as a set. They might do it with a train and controller, and then you can add “expansion sets” but Not just a closed loop of basic C track.
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cookee_nz		#6 Posted : 18 April 2020 03:05:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 3,955 Location: Paremata, Wellington		Out of interest, were the broken bits in the boxes? - if so, then vibration from shipping and being thrown around by careless couriers could be enough to cause them to shatter, but the broken fragments would still be in the packaging. If the bits are in the packaging (or they've broken when you've handled them), I'm afraid you may need to give the seller the benefit of the doubt. He may simply not have known. But you can sure make certain he knows now for future. On the other hand, if it's a trader or long-time reseller of M., it would be hard to imagine them not knowing about this. But, if there were no plastic fragments within the packaging, then it might appear they were packed like that and you may have a much stronger case for misrepresentation. Do you have the opportunity to add feedback about the purchase?, if so, make sure you refer this well-known problem to alert others. It's a frustrating issue. I have a heap of the 'old' track purchased when I first got excited about C-track, of course no possible way to get it replaced now, so I have to be very careful in handling. Once laid it's not usually an issue but of course if you have to lift track even for maintenance, that's all it will take. Cookee
		Cookee Wellington
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husafreak		#7 Posted : 18 April 2020 03:44:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		The broken pieces from one track were in the box the other two missing pieces were not. And I agree with you on your points, we’ll taken.
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David Dewar		#8 Posted : 18 April 2020 10:12:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		Can I suggest a Marklin catalogue giving all the C track parts and those needed for a loop etc. A start set which you mentioned would be a good way to go.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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Rwill		#9 Posted : 18 April 2020 10:36:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC) Posts: 777 Location: England, London		I agree with all the points already made. However in amongst the Ebay rascals there are a few good eggs! I quite like Joes modelbahn who sells on e bay and from his own website. He sells the complete M catalogue and also has some items that have gone off the main dealers listing with time. He breaks down starter sets and sells groups of items at good prices. They are brand new. Because they are from sets they will not be boxed but are very well tightly packed in bubble wrap Example is; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Markl...&hash=item440388088f:g:TPoAAMXQw8hRZkQT
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JohnjeanB		#10 Posted : 18 April 2020 12:04:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,123 Location: Paris, France		Hi Marklin C track is aging and becomes brittle . Older track before 2005 were using a different plastic so aging was critical (a simple drop from 30cm on wooden floor was enough to break it. Now aging process is still there but reduced (the first parts to go are those tiny extremity latches but only after 5 years) So IMO, it is important to check the manufacturing date (in a small circle under the track) and to avoid purchasing second hand track New track is totally indestructible. Cheers Jean
		My layout videos latest vid marshalling yard My Layout
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kiwiAlan		#11 Posted : 18 April 2020 13:05:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,109 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot		Originally Posted by: husafreak FWIW I normally shop direct, but I could not find a simple oval starter set for Marklin C track from the shops I buy from, so I googled it and this set popped up on Amazon. But it is not real. I’m guessing Marklin does not do a basic oval as a set. They might do it with a train and controller, and then you can add “expansion sets” but Not just a closed loop of basic C track. The only time marklin sell a basic oval track set is in a complete start set. However dealers may split start sets, especially german dealers, and you may get an oval that way. However another way is a set that Marklin sells complete with an ms2 controller and track box but no rolling stock, set catalogue #29000. This is designed as an add-on set for people who have bought the very basic start sets that come with the infra-red controllers or hard wired controllers, and contains r2 curves instead of the r1 curves that come in the start sets, so is a little larger than the basic oval.
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rrf		#12 Posted : 18 April 2020 14:23:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 300 Location: Silver Spring, Maryland USA		C-Track standard radius curves (R1 to R5) all come in boxes of 6 x 30 degree tracks. If you want a full circle, simply purchase two boxes or 12 tracks.
		Rob Mackenrode Wende Bahn
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vmsysprog		#13 Posted : 18 April 2020 16:29:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/09/2010(UTC) Posts: 60		I have glued the older track together. The time had past to exchange it, in fact I didn’t know the program existed. I decided the older track was useless anyway, so gluing it wasn’t going to hurt it. When I dismantled if I broke it I just threw it away. If the seller packed the track so poorly that it broke during shipping, IMO, that’s on the seller for doing such a poor packing job. I’ve never had any old track so fragile that it would break that easy. It would break either during assembly or disassembly. Steve
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husafreak		#14 Posted : 18 April 2020 18:07:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		We’ll see what seller says. I feel like a dummy though as I’ve realized I could have bought the track new in boxes from my normal dealer network for less than I paid. Didn’t do my homework on this one. But in my defense C track is very inexpensive compared to the Rokuhan Z and Fleischmann N track I have used in the past. Economies of scale?
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husafreak		#15 Posted : 19 April 2020 06:07:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		How do you read the date on this C track? I'll take a guess... There is an arrow with a number pointing at a ring of numbers 1-12, like a clock face. So, of the track I got, the newer formulation tracks are either an 05 arrow pointing at the 8, or a 13 arrow pointing at the 11. Is that August 2005 and November 2013? And of the old "made in Germany" track I see arrow 98 at 10 (October 1998) or arrow 04 at 3 (March 2004) or, some of it has no date stamp at all. Is that correct?
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JohnjeanB		#16 Posted : 19 April 2020 11:46:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,123 Location: Paris, France		Hi you have all numbers from 1 to 12 in a circle and an arrow pointing to one of them: this is the production's month The two numbers in the center are the two last of the year (98 in your case means 1998) cheers Jean
		My layout videos latest vid marshalling yard My Layout
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husafreak		#17 Posted : 19 April 2020 17:27:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		Makes sense then. Maybe it would have been better to refer to refer to 22 year old track as N.O.S. or “new old stock” then, rather than “new”. But I don’t know if this term is universal or just used in say, the USA.
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JohnjeanB		#18 Posted : 19 April 2020 17:39:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,123 Location: Paris, France		I started buying C track in 1996 and I can tell track pieces made in 1998 have to be treated very gently. The nose connector breaks easily and so the ballast side. I use this as an opportunity to make my own track length and combination and even a modified switch (nothing to lose mode) Before After Cheers Jean
		My layout videos latest vid marshalling yard My Layout
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husafreak		#19 Posted : 19 April 2020 19:10:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		It is a good point to make, and thanks for the pictures. Even that old track can be used and for sure I won't lose sleep over it. But it is good to be an "expert" now on C track. At least Marklin was able to reformulate the track without changing its appearance. I cannot tell the 1998 track from the 2013 track, without dropping it ;)
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PMPeter		#20 Posted : 19 April 2020 19:22:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,275 Location: Port Moody, BC		There's an easier way to tell the difference. The new formula track has a CE ASA indication on the underside. Not all of the new track has the circular date indicator, especially on the smaller pieces, but AFAIK they all have the CE ASA for the new formula track. Another key indicator is that the old formula track is very glossy on the inside compared to the new track. Peter
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husafreak		#21 Posted : 19 April 2020 23:15:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I noticed the gloss but not the ASA thanks. Off topic but curious, I got a pair of 24172 and 24188 straights with this “set” also included was a track plan for a 4x8 layout simple square oval and 24188 and 24172 track alternates on the straights. And I see Marklin sells straight C track pieces that equal the length of the 24188+24172 combination. Why is this? For my simple but long oval layout I could use just the longest pieces.
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David Dewar		#22 Posted : 19 April 2020 23:18:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		The two straights are pre joined. A Marklin catalogue will give you all the information on track and the book on controls is also worth getting.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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husafreak		#23 Posted : 20 April 2020 00:11:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I will take a look. But I did find a Marklin diagram showing how the 24172 and 24188 accommodate turnouts. A better question might be this: The oval I am putting up is remote and simple, an oval with R1 curves 17' long. No turnouts. I could use 12 #24360 sections for each straight side, or 12 each #24172 and #24188 sections alternating like in the diagram I saw (one 24360=24172+24188). From my experience with Z scale the longer sections the better, every joint is a potential obstacle for a loco with such tiny wheels. But this is HO. The cost is pretty much the same. What would you do?
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PMPeter		#24 Posted : 20 April 2020 01:49:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,275 Location: Port Moody, BC		I bought the 24360 pieces for my long straight runs. the plastic is actually a 24172 and 24188 joined together for each 24360 with solid rails for the whole length.
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husafreak		#25 Posted : 20 April 2020 01:59:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		Ah, now I understand what David meant! But having solid rails means less connections, theoretically better.
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zofman		#26 Posted : 20 April 2020 09:58:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 26 Location: Diemen the Netherlands		There is one disadvantige to the 24360. They look like a 172 added with a 188 because of the bedding. So if you want to disassemble your layout it is easy to break/ bend them. Also if you have to make sections, you have one opportunity less. Stay healthy, Jan
		WWW
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husafreak		#27 Posted : 20 April 2020 17:16:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		Oh no! I can see how that could easily happen. Kind of funny though.
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husafreak		#28 Posted : 21 April 2020 04:00:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I ordered new C track from a dealer here in the USA that assured me it is current (Ajckids) and I'll keep the old stuff I got as a test and programming loop. I am fascinated by the "middle rail" just a point on every sleeper, and it is black, so I guess the same technique they use for dark loco wheels. It seemed to take a few minutes to run in but my loco is running smoothly on it now.
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husafreak		#29 Posted : 25 April 2020 18:19:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		As stated my loop of C track will be difficult to access, not bad but using a ladder, with easy access from a ladder. It's about 10' high. Obviously I will be going up to clean the tracks occasionally or for any loco maintenance. Do you guys trust the Marklin spade connectors for long term use? I bought a box but now I'm thinking I should solder the wiring. But if the spades are good for many years maybe that is not necessary. It is dry here in California so corrosion is not a big problem. It sure wouldn't be fun to troubleshoot though! Also, the track is a simple 16' long oval, I guessing connections at four points is enough? It's less than 10' between contacts.
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David Dewar		#30 Posted : 25 April 2020 20:47:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		To be sure solder the connections.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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husafreak		#31 Posted : 25 April 2020 21:40:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		Sounds good.
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mike c		#32 Posted : 26 April 2020 03:56:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 7,898 Location: Montreal, QC		I would think that you can find a good source of track and other Maerklin items. A few years back, Maerklin had a set 29000, which includes a MS2 and an oval of track (probably R1) This might be a good way to get some track and a Mobile Station to boot. A few dealers might sell the track from Start Sets if they break them down and sell the rolling stock separately. Tracks coming from a start set do not come in boxes as they normally sit in the styrofoam cradle of the start set. Most of my track damage was incurred during normal operation, not from being dropped. For example, when connecting or separating track sections, little parts would break off. So far, I have not had a complete break in a track section. My biggest gripe about the C-Track is the connection of the wires. The little tabs that have to be connected can be hard to work with. I would much have preferred some kind of modular connection where all you had to do was plug a two prong connector into a track section. For example, if somebody steps and trips (or pulls) on the wire, it can damage the connectors and pull the track out of alignment. A system where it would have just pulled out the plug would have been better. Regards Mike C
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husafreak		#33 Posted : 26 April 2020 05:08:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		In the other hand you can drill a hole for your wiring below the track and it goes down and out, never to be seen. But I thought it was odd that a casual user who just wants to lay some track out and play (which should be C tracks intended customer) will have a bump where the track runs over its own wiring. My other experience is with Rokuhan Z scale track in which the power plugs in from the side and the plug is sort of camouflaged like some trackside box but it is easy to insert and remove and looks nice if not prototypical.
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David Dewar		#34 Posted : 26 April 2020 12:56:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		Yep. I drill a hole in the baseboards for all wiring. Also you can run wires through a channel in C track. C track colour does fade with time and if you add a new part of track it does look different from the rest.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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kiwiAlan		#35 Posted : 27 April 2020 13:06:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,109 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot		Originally Posted by: mike c I would think that you can find a good source of track and other Maerklin items. A few years back, Maerklin had a set 29000, which includes a MS2 and an oval of track (probably R1) That is the set I mentioned already in post #11 - complete with link to Marklin catalogue page. It is still a current catalogue item, and contains R2 track.
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husafreak		#36 Posted : 27 April 2020 17:14:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		Limited space, needed R1
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husafreak		#37 Posted : 29 April 2020 19:03:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I suppose I should wrap this up, at least insofar as with all your help and advice I resolved the issue with the Amazon shop. He replaced the broken track, I wrote a review basically stating "buyer beware, confirm what you will be getting", and I decided to keep the track and handle it gently. Thanks again.
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Bones		#38 Posted : 04 May 2020 06:46:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 105 Location: Queensland		For what it's worth I would never ever buy track from Ebay nor Amazon for that very reason The dealer I go through would simply swap it for newer track if the purchase was with in the warranty period I very rarely purchase anything through them I am happy to pay a little bit extra to get it direct from the manufacturer
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Bones		#39 Posted : 04 May 2020 06:55:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 105 Location: Queensland		Originally Posted by: husafreak I noticed the gloss but not the ASA thanks. Off topic but curious, I got a pair of 24172 and 24188 straights with this “set” also included was a track plan for a 4x8 layout simple square oval and 24188 and 24172 track alternates on the straights. And I see Marklin sells straight C track pieces that equal the length of the 24188+24172 combination. Why is this? For my simple but long oval layout I could use just the longest pieces. The basic track length by which the 24611 and 24612 point radius was calculated was 360 mm so 177 & 188 give you the correct combination for a parallel track
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husafreak		#40 Posted : 11 June 2020 08:31:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I’m ready to lay out my track and I’m wondering if anyone would advise a cork bed for the C track. I know the whole point of this type of track is it doesn’t need a roadbed but I’ve read that there are positive things about putting some cork between the track and the hard board surface it will be screwed to, sound absorption and a kind of small suspension being two.
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David Dewar		#41 Posted : 11 June 2020 13:06:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: husafreak I’m ready to lay out my track and I’m wondering if anyone would advise a cork bed for the C track. I know the whole point of this type of track is it doesn’t need a roadbed but I’ve read that there are positive things about putting some cork between the track and the hard board surface it will be screwed to, sound absorption and a kind of small suspension being two. Woodland Scenics do track bed which I find very good. It comes in strips or larger parts. I broke the bank and covered my layout with it (4 foot x 16 foot) Makes a big difference to noise and can be painted to make reasonable looking roads.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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pederbc		#42 Posted : 11 June 2020 16:20:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 11/06/2007(UTC) Posts: 182 Location: Eslöv, Sweden		Hi, I have covered the entire baseboard with 2mm cork. As you state, the C-rail already have enough of bed. But the next time I will go for 4mm. If possible, avoid screwing the rails. That makes it noisy. Try glue or something else. I have found, at least in my. Ase, that the rails don’t move and have only fastened it in a few places. One tip is, if you find the precut cork for railbed. Some comes in 2 halves to make it easy to lay in curves. Thes are normally 7 to 8 mm thick with a 45 degree cut on one side. Use them upside down in areas like stations to visually remove the C-track bed. Peder
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husafreak		#43 Posted : 11 June 2020 18:00:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		OK thanks, it sounds like a layer of cork is good for sound absorption so I'll scare some up. Luckily for my bank account this track is actually above eye level so I will only need strips for sound control. I'll look at Woodland Scenics products or the local art supply for rolls.
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scraigen		#44 Posted : 11 June 2020 18:54:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 29/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 299 Location: Sheffield,		Cork floor tiles?
		Must build something
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pederbc		#45 Posted : 11 June 2020 20:02:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 11/06/2007(UTC) Posts: 182 Location: Eslöv, Sweden		No, its not floor tiles. I purchased a roll of 2mm cork 1 meter wide and 10 meter long from a local supplier. This company has a factory in Portugal and normally sells to other manufacturers. I’m lucky enough to have a friend working there . Peder
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husafreak		#46 Posted : 11 June 2020 21:48:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I checked out the Woodland Scenics website and ordered their track bed. It looks just great, a dark color like the Marklin C track so in my odd case it will look like one piece from the side and below and they do a little video that proves the amazing sound deadening properties even over cork. The stuff is about 4mm thick. Not cheap but not bad in this installation.
2 users liked this useful post by husafreak		David Dewar, dickinsonj
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Rwill		#47 Posted : 11 June 2020 22:42:42(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC) Posts: 777 Location: England, London		I think I may be a little odd! My first fifteen or more years Marklin experience was with K track. I think I tried every conceivable track base Merkur, Noch, Cork Strip, Cork tiles, rolled cork, Woodland scenics and even corrugated cardboard and hundreds of those little black track screws. Then one day I bought some C track and decided I liked it, so rapidly redesigned and replaced my set up. My layout is single level and stays in place all the time We have MDF board covered in a green self-adhesive flooring underlay. On top of that goes the Ctrack , no screws, no glue no track bed. Despite some quite heavy and often chaotic running the track stays pretty well put. I have already mentioned this evening I am a bit deaf, so noise is not really an issue- real trains make a noise on the tracks, don’t they? Furthermore, After the occasional sleepless night, hour or so on Scarm, ideas from this forum or publications I make “changes” to my layout some very minor and some a bit more so. I don’t believe my layout will ever be “finished”
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David Dewar		#48 Posted : 11 June 2020 23:24:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: husafreak I checked out the Woodland Scenics website and ordered their track bed. It looks just great, a dark color like the Marklin C track so in my odd case it will look like one piece from the side and below and they do a little video that proves the amazing sound deadening properties even over cork. The stuff is about 4mm thick. Not cheap but not bad in this installation. You will find that will work well and looks good with C track. You can also drill holes through it with a little care. When you lay your C track try using Copydex by putting a little on the sides of your C track. Only do it every two feet or so and away from turnouts. This will hold everything together without the need for screws and if you have to lift some track it will come away from the track bed easily and can be put back again. The above will give you little noise and avoiding screwing down track.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
2 users liked this useful post by David Dewar		husafreak, Joe Meiring
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husafreak		#49 Posted : 12 June 2020 21:13:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 559 Location: California, Bay Area		I’m surprised you guys avoid screwing down the track but it’s OK with me. I just have to find another use for all these screws ;) I looked up Copydex, some kind of foul smelling rubber cement? Of course my usual contact cement stinks too!
1 user liked this useful post by husafreak		David Dewar
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David Dewar		#50 Posted : 12 June 2020 23:48:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,342 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: husafreak I’m surprised you guys avoid screwing down the track but it’s OK with me. I just have to find another use for all these screws ;) I looked up Copydex, some kind of foul smelling rubber cement? Of course my usual contact cement stinks too! Copydex does not have much of a smell and dries clear. screws just increase noise by attaching the track to the base. Copydex will just hold C track in place. What you don't want is a strong glue which makes it difficult to lift track to replace point motors or add a contact track etc.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
1 user liked this useful post by David Dewar		Joe Meiring
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