So I want some specific branded cars (whether they were branded as such in reality or not), and the result is I really need to just make my own.
The theory:

1) start with a nice new, cheap freight car (box car, tank car, etc) that is mainly a base color, use LUX LDE-90 and a cotton swab to gently remove any tampon prints that may be in strategic areas and generally prep the car (touch up etc).

2) get custom decals printed of the logos I want to use (BBC, Eichbaum, BASF, etc). (UV Decals from www.modellbahndecals.de )

3) Apply the custom decals on the cars

4) Apply any necessary weathering and then seal that and the decals under some matte clear laquer/poly.


So the question in principle is: does that sound like it would work well : ie the laquer/poly coating over the decals; will it hold up?

What are others experiences with modifying freight cars to their own need?

I'll be putting custom numbers on a BR 01, but thats an easier/smaller task.


Quick mockups of what I had in mind...

Hi Thomas,

It works well but it is a lot of work.
You need to do a small check spray top-coat (colour or clear) for compatibility with the underlying coat at EACH stage.
Bubbling and crazing can occur randomly and only in parts. The reason??? Nobody knows.
Dry weather is important for spray painting.
Decals sit best on a gloss finish, then after a day or two drying another coating (matt or gloss/semi-gloss) to seal them on.
I sprayed using Humbrol gloss paints, which reduced the amount of coating.

I have done countless freight cars in HO using Champ and Microscale decals.
I gave up about 20 years ago, so now do only the odd item.

The examples you gave would each take up 8 to 10 hours, with days in-between each hour or two (work, chores, disassembly for painting, waiting for paint to dry, decals to bed-in etc).
In the end, it is a matter of is it worth it (for yourself of course)?

regards
Kimball

Bubbling and crazing can occur randomly and only in parts. The reason??? Nobody knows.

The three main reasons bubbling occurs is
1) moisture on the surface
2) spray can not thoroughly shaken
3) old spray can

Two main reasons for crazing on the surface
1) coat of paint to thick
2) fist coat of paint not properly dry, then second coat applied.
The second coat dries and shrinks on the first coat. Therefore causing the cracked, crazing or crocodile effect.

Thanks. Airbursh does seem to be the way to go for applying the matte and protective finishes, as its more finely controlled than the blast of a rattle can.

I'll have lots of 'practice material' as one part of the custom decals I'm ordering is a large chunk of color bars in various shades of green/olive, in order to be able to order one decal to match the model I have, and not knowing how the particular printer will render the colors, I'm ordering a color pallet so I can make the diagram the exact color I need. (there is a best guess decal in the order based on the match from my xerox color laser, but the decal printer isn't that printer, so variations are highly likely).

So after I've gotten the match needed by comparing the color bars to the model, then I can use them to practice technique and what works insofar as setting and then sealing them decals. I'll be dealing with very tiny decals too - license plates and other small markings, so part of me things its easier than dealing with a large decal, but one needs steady hands and a good eye/magnifier.. which should be fine with my luxo magnifier lamp and not having a lot of coffee before hand.

Hi,

Yes, it would hold up. The sequence you described is accurate. I use painters matte varnish as the last layer. Make sure you use "micro sol" and "micro set" when applying decals for amazingly good results. You can find info on how to use these on the net.

C.