Roger: I would suggest using a circuit board from Lussi:

http://luessi.ch/shop/ca...h=2&products_id=2354

r/mark

I have the same lok.
If you are going to upgrade the lok, I would recommend that you update the LED panel to one of the newer versions that would give you more light options.
The newest ones (37347/37348/37349/etc) have bright white LEDs, long distance headlights as well as dual red lights.
This would give you the option of Swiss 3 x 1 white, 3 + 1 red, but you could also select just one or two red at the rear for pushing reversible consists.

The 37342/37356/26544 had OEM ESU decoders
Models since then have Maerklin's newest decoder or sound decoder.

Older models had catenary selection by switch. Newer ones have a selectable pin bridge on the circuit board.

I have not used any Luessi products, but have updated some of my models by swapping shells with newer models with sound/more features.
For example, my 37344 (11252 red) is now running with the chassis from a 37349 (11252 TEE). The lok still has the same mfx address but now has sounds and more LED options and can be used with my EWI NPZ push-pull consist

Regards

Mike C

AFAIK, 29859 has a 60902 decoder.
No need for resistors, diodes or circuit design, the resistors for the leds are included on the led boards, which you will retain.
You may just connect the F1 and F2 leads (presumably brown/red and brown/green) to the AUX 1 and AUX 2 outputs of the LokSound.

If you want to avoid buying a separate circuit board for the Swiss 3x white / 1x white light, make sure that you use a Loksound with an amplified AUX3 output (or the ESU 51968 21p adapter board with AUX3/4 amplifier). Why not use a Märklin mSD2/3 sound decoder, which come with amplified AUX3/4.
Using AUX1 and AUX2 for the high beam lights, connect both lower right-sided white headlights to AUX3, programmed to be both switched on by F0 independently of direction of travel.
In the ESU decoder manuals, there is a specific section explaining this Swiss 3x white / 1x white light wiring.

BTW, if you dive into ESU function mapping, you can subsequently program the AUX1 and AUX2 outputs to have the high beam lights switched on by a single F-key, rather than toggling the F1 and F2 keys whenever you change direction.

If you want bright white LEDs, long distance headlights as well as dual red lights, you have to follow Mike's suggestions and order 37347/37348/37349 replacement led boards (e.g. part# E198895), although wiring and voltage required are not obvious, and I haven't yet reverse engineered the wiring and voltage requirements between the 37348 main board and led boards, which are much more complicated than the older decoders/led circuit boards.

Hi Roger, I did this conversion many years ago. It may give you an idea on what you are up for if you choose not to use the Board from Luessi. But he does sell a quality product with plug & play ability.

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With Luessi Board:

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Thank you all. I am sufficiently scared into doing it the easy way. To Luessi we go.

Roger

Ordered yesterday

I would assume that soldering is required but that the wires will be soldered to the same locations on this board as on the factory board. This then allows the decoder to be plugged in on the new board and no figuring out of connections is required.

Roger, before removing wires from the old board make sure you connect them again to the right soldering pad (lights) may be there is an instruction from the Luessi board where these goes and what colour.
How are you going to program the ESU decoder ?

John

Roger, hope this helps:

RE4/4 = http://luessi.ch/pdf/8016_e.pdf

AE8/14 = http://luessi.ch/pdf/8015_e.pdf

For interest sake: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqNvlq3SI7M

I did the same conversion using a Luessi PCB and a LokPilot 4 decoder. Everything has been really plug and play. I made the only mistake in soldering the cables on different soldering pads, easily fixed. Good conversion.