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Offline SST  
#1 Posted : 18 July 2018 20:17:27(UTC)
SST

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2
Location: Massachusetts, Boston
I recently bought a bunch of used Marklin gauge 1 track and turnouts online etc.. However the tracks arrived with the older, longer style of track joiners, and these joiners do not play nice with all the other newer track joiners—they don’t attach properly. Mad

I have been unable to find much verbiage on Marklin gauge 1 track joiners and if I can buy new ones and if I could switch them out?

These old tracks are pretty much useless unless I can convert them. I have also noticed that the old track joiners are very stubborn and just about impossible to remove even with a needle nosed pliers :( furthermore I’m not even sure Marklin sells the new joiners?

Please... Does any know anything about this plight? I cannot be the only one who has faced this predicament.

Thank you !!!
—SST
Offline Markus Schild  
#2 Posted : 18 July 2018 20:32:11(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi,

Welcome to the forum.

We had that topic before: https://www.marklin-user...ew-Marklin-Tracks-Series
I think there you find your answers.

Regards

Markus
Offline Best Ripper  
#3 Posted : 19 July 2018 10:31:27(UTC)
Best Ripper

Bulgaria   
Joined: 13/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Grad Sofia, Sofia
Hi, SST. Yes, these old joiners are bad because they are rusting and the spring effect in them is dead. So they hold tracks mechanically but not good electric contact between tracks. I don't think you'll find new ones of them so I may tell you one good method for start using them without changing. You just need to solder electric bridges around every joiner on the outer side of tracks. If you'll made a stable layout you may solder all tracks, if you think to unmount tracks you must solder 3-4-5 tracks together and use Marklin track clips 56031 to double the power.
Soldering on Marklin iron tracks is not easy directly. But there is one trick - using special flux/paste or acid. If you are intersting I can describe all process next weak. Regards.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#4 Posted : 20 July 2018 00:08:42(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: Best Ripper Go to Quoted Post
...... using special flux/paste or acid.


And using solder with high silver content.
Offline Best Ripper  
#5 Posted : 20 July 2018 09:04:09(UTC)
Best Ripper

Bulgaria   
Joined: 13/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 19
Location: Grad Sofia, Sofia
Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Best Ripper Go to Quoted Post
...... using special flux/paste or acid.


And using solder with high silver content.


It's not mandatory. I was using old lead-tin solder /Sn-Pb/ and all was perfect. Silver gets melting point very high so it's very easy to overheat the metal and to meltdown plastic sleepers. The same is with non-leaded solders.
Offline Markus Schild  
#6 Posted : 20 July 2018 09:35:50(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi,

I use Sn97Cu3 to solder something to 1-gauge rails. Works fine.

Regards

Markus
Offline Artologic  
#7 Posted : 13 August 2018 00:01:33(UTC)
Artologic

Belgium   
Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC)
Posts: 496
Hey,

To make them fit, without changing, I just cut a piece of of them, so they are just half as long anymore and thus can be connected to the newer rail joiner tracks. The problem with them is -if I recall correctly- that due to the length, they don t fit because the first tie with holder to the track is in the way, so cutting those away, is maybe an option too.

Kristof
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Artologic
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