Hi everyone

Currently I use two systems as a means of feedback system :

- straight track element for remote control (all the familly xxx994)

- reed switch (7555)

I know very well that in the future... far or near... these two systems will give me problems.

The current layout is a test layout
.

As a xxx94 rail becomes defective or a 7555, I'll replace the block feedback with a more reliable system.

A few years ago I was advised to make a feedback system based on wheels contacts on the rail (I think)

It consists of:

-cut terminal strip B to isolate the rail.

- use of the 74030 to isolate the block

-connect a blue wire from terminal 0 to S88

- make a cut with a dremmel in one of the rails

I found two photos





I need more information to build up the file and I already have a problem with the pedal of a 24994.

I'm sure a lot of people here use this system.

So could someone help me? I've lost all the information I had.

This system has a specific name I think... I can't remember it.

Thank you for your help

Thewolf

Edited by moderator 11 February 2018 06:25:19(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

If you are going to cut your track to create a situation where the wheelset of a locomotive, car or coach will activate the contact as the return triggers the circuit by the fact that current travels to the cut off rail via the wheels, you will have to make two cuts into the track section and then wire the contact to the intermediate section.

Would this not have the same result? http://www.ajckids.com/products/Marklin/24995

http://www.modellbahnkel...chalten/Kontaktgleis.htm

One other option would be to attach a magnet to say, the first coach of each train or consist. The magnet could pass over a sensor on the track, which would trigger the relay. It would probably be easier to mount the magnet on a car or coach than it would be to do so on a locomotive.

Regards

Mike C

Or try the ESU Detector 50094 it really works as advertised! Not once has it failed me on my new C track layout.

Thank you Michel

I already have the S88 Viesmann for the layout of the future. Why should I have to spend additional dollars? And what will I do with the equipment I have? Sell it for a used bread crust even if the boxes have never been opened?

Even if it allows 16 contact rails, the price is exorbitant... almost $300 cad without taxes.

I'm not buying this item. In the future layout as I will have more than 90 cantons, no need to say more. I am not the bank of Canada... unfortunately

But this is an excellent system

Thewolf

Bonjour Thewolf,

Yes it is an excellent system! ESU detectors reminds me of Pierre Marcolini chocolates, the must haves! Pricey but it is only for my hobby and only the best will do! Marklin for the trains & ESU for controlling the trains!

https://eu.marcolini.com

And for the curves, what's Marklin planning?

So I'll have to make them myself.
In that case, I have a better chance of making them all.

Thewolf

Bonjour Thewolf,

Yes it is an excellent system! ESU detectors reminds me of Pierre Marcolini chocolates, the must haves! Pricey but it is only for my hobby and only the best will do! Marklin for the trains & ESU for controlling the trains!

https://eu.marcolini.com

Why cut the rail? To reproduce this .



A question immediately appears to me: why would Marklin have proceeded in this way in 24995?

I have been going through this forum and the French-speaking European forum for two days now, and every time we talk about doing this on the railways.

I can even say that a lot of people are adept at making these rails themselves and that there are two ideologies as for the total isolation of the block or only the two entry rails.

It's about a lost car issue. Cutting all tabs from terminal O to all block rails would be safer for lost cars. Cutting only the tongue of terminal O to the rails at the ends of the block would be less secure but detection would also work.

Personally I don't see myself cutting all the tabs of terminal O at all the rails of the layout. It would drive you crazy.

I'm building a mountain of information that in five years I won't be able to finish reading.

You probably have another method I don't know of.

It's like the diode Peder talks about. Some say it is necessary for small locos to prevent them from losing power or something like that and others say the diode is not necessary.

I think the best solution for me and I have the time to do it (retired) is to build 3 blocks interspersed with 2 turnouts and connect everything to the S88, configure it all in Itrain apart from the layout and see how it works.

If it works properly for this small set, everything will be correct for the future.

There's no reason why this works for 3 blocks and not for 50 or even 100.

But I am taking as much information as possible to obtain the best possible result.

Changing a 24994 on top of a hidden station with wires or anywhere else... it's ggrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Have a nice day

Thewolf

That's OK. I hadn't appreciated the 24995 tracks you were using had the cut rail, I was thinking you were referring to the other tracks that Marklin do with the slider actuated switch - so we were talking ta cross purposes. I think the 24995 tracks are made to go with the railway crossing, although why Marklin go to the extent of making them I don't know, when they provide the insulators which are much cheaper. Looking at the price of those tracks, they are expensive!

Hi everyone

I need to clarify a few things about my previous comments.

As I said Mike helped me but this Sunday someone else (and it's not just anyone) clarified some of the small details.

It took me a long time to understand these little details but once I understood them, I realized that I was completely out of touch with what Mike had explained to me. In French we say "'
'' Je m'étais mélangé complètement les pinceaux ''.

I misunderstood Mike's terms.

The person who made me understand that I was on the wrong track is none other than Fabrice, a member of this forum.

Thank you Fabrice

I'll make a test block and if it works, I'll have a choice.

Either I start my feedback again and I do it the way it should be done: I eliminate the 24X94 and reed contacts or I leave what is installed as it is and replace only the failures

I know I'm going to choose the first option.

Thewolf