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Offline mb300e4m  
#1 Posted : 12 May 2017 22:38:28(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
This is a bit of a long shot, but I am wondering if anyone can identify the Digital Adapter Circuit Board in the picture. It has number on it but google drew a blank. It has an 8 pin socket with a plug installed. The adapter is installed in a dual motor 4 cylinder steam loco. I would like to be able to install an ESU 64400 decoder which comes with an 8 pin plug. Could I be lucky enough to find it is a plug and play affair? Huh

1-P8015844.JPG
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline RayF  
#2 Posted : 12 May 2017 22:49:23(UTC)
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RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Wherever you see this kind of arrangement in a loco it is classed as "DCC ready". Remove the blanking plug and insert an 8 pin decoder of your choice.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline mb300e4m  
#3 Posted : 12 May 2017 23:23:39(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Wherever you see this kind of arrangement in a loco it is classed as "DCC ready". Remove the blanking plug and insert an 8 pin decoder of your choice.


Hi again Ray,

I understood when I bought it some time ago that it was DCC ready and ought to be plug and play, have you any idea what make the board is, I would like to do some homework on it before I plug anything into it? It runs and the lights work on straight DC now, so unless the plug has some bridges on it to bypass an absent decoder, I cannot see how after plugging in a decoder the decoder can control the speed and lights. I hope I am making sense. Confused

I need to dismantle it and look at the plug closely; it is the very devil to take the body off, but I will soon after I have completed a few other jobs.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline RayF  
#4 Posted : 12 May 2017 23:42:16(UTC)
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RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
This is how all DCC ready locos work. The plug has, as you guessed, some bridges on it to allow analogue operation. When you remove the blanking plug and plug in a decoder the wiring will be correct for DCC operation.

I don't understand what you mean by the "make" of the printed circuit board. Is it not original to the loco? It should be made by the manufacturer of the loco or a subcontractor.

What make is the loco? Maybe you can look it up under the model number for the loco.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline Goofy  
#5 Posted : 13 May 2017 09:00:34(UTC)
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Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,019
PCB can been made by of any electronic company.
This PCB are DCC/MM ready to use 8 pin decoder with sound or without sound decoder.
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Offline mb300e4m  
#6 Posted : 13 May 2017 16:52:05(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
I don't understand what you mean by the "make" of the printed circuit board. Is it not original to the loco? It should be made by the manufacturer of the loco or a subcontractor.

What make is the loco? Maybe you can look it up under the model number for the loco.

By "Make" I mean manufacturer. I tried googling the numbers on the PC board but drew a blank. The Loco was made in China for Eureka Models an Australian company.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline eroncelli  
#7 Posted : 16 May 2017 12:18:55(UTC)
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eroncelli

Italy   
Joined: 16/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 124
Location: Bergamo - italy
Don't worry about the board "manufacturer": just unplug the "bypass" for Analog DC and plug the decoder in.
That's it.
As said, it's the normal arrangement for DC loco that comes as "DCC ready" (usually it is well described in the user's manual).
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Offline mb300e4m  
#8 Posted : 16 May 2017 15:18:20(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: eroncelli Go to Quoted Post
Don't worry about the board "manufacturer": just unplug the "bypass" for Analog DC and plug the decoder in.
That's it.
As said, it's the normal arrangement for DC loco that comes as "DCC ready" (usually it is well described in the user's manual).


I will order the ESU LokSound 64400 this week, it comes with a speaker too. It may take about two weeks to get to me. I will post back when it arrives. ThumpUp

Thanks everyone.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline mb300e4m  
#9 Posted : 09 June 2017 17:37:16(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
I recently upgraded a Marklin 3702 with a 64499 LokSound V4.0 M4 decoder and it works fine with my Marklin MS2. Is there any reason why my Eureka Garratt would not work with the MS2 controller? Should it not just find it?

The ESU 64400 LokSound V4.0 M4 for my Garrett should arrive on my doorstep today. I have an ESU programmer, PC app and sound file, but I am clueless as to how to proceed to the next step beyond unplugging the 8 pin plug from the interface card then plugging in the 64400 plug. It will be a big learning curve. The programmer manual is not written in Peter rabbit English, as in "Run Spot run, see Spot run" if you get my meaning.
BigGrin
Best regards to all members,

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline Minok  
#10 Posted : 09 June 2017 22:07:53(UTC)
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Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,311
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
As has been stated, the 8-pin plug provides for straight DC operation by feeding the incoming power pin feed over to the lights output feeds that drive the lights, and similar for the motor.

When you remove that plug and install the DCC decoder, that lights output will no longer be direct bridged to the power pin, but come out of the decoder's lights output, and thus be controlled by the decoder. Same for the motor, your no longer would have the DC power directly going to the motor, but instead have the DCC decoder's motor outputs controlling the motor.

I suspect the board would be whatever the locomotive maker installed at the factory, made by the supplier they use, or the company's own.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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Offline mb300e4m  
#11 Posted : 10 June 2017 01:41:22(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: Minok Go to Quoted Post
As has been stated, the 8-pin plug provides for straight DC operation by feeding the incoming power pin feed over to the lights output feeds that drive the lights, and similar for the motor.

When you remove that plug and install the DCC decoder, that lights output will no longer be direct bridged to the power pin, but come out of the decoder's lights output, and thus be controlled by the decoder. Same for the motor, your no longer would have the DC power directly going to the motor, but instead have the DCC decoder's motor outputs controlling the motor.

I suspect the board would be whatever the locomotive maker installed at the factory, made by the supplier they use, or the company's own.

Agreed, but if all that was required was to plug in the new decoder, it would be easy peasy, but that is the only part that requires no real expertease. The HARD part for someone who has never done this before is the programming, uploading sound file and so on. I have a programmer, sound file and software but...It is like the Beatles movie, "Magical Mystery Tour".

And the next step is? I guess I'll have to make it up as I go along.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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Offline Minok  
#12 Posted : 10 June 2017 03:28:18(UTC)
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Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,311
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
If you buy a decoder that already has the sound files in it it's easy. The hardest part is stowing the speaker in the loco.

Well there is also the DCC controller setup to be sure. But that won't of be needed even for a loco that was fully DCC equiped from the factory. Other than reprogramming the decoder from the std factory address to the one of your choice it's pretty straightforward I thought.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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Offline mb300e4m  
#13 Posted : 10 June 2017 19:32:17(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: Minok Go to Quoted Post
If you buy a decoder that already has the sound files in it it's easy. The hardest part is stowing the speaker in the loco.

Well there is also the DCC controller setup to be sure. But that won't of be needed even for a loco that was fully DCC equipped from the factory. Other than reprogramming the decoder from the std factory address to the one of your choice it's pretty straightforward I thought.

The first conversion I ever did was to replace an early decoder in a Marklin BR53 with an ESU Loksound V4. I got the decoder with the sound installed, but this time I decided I needed to learn how to do it myself.

I took a bold step this morning, I pulled the "bypass" plug from the adapter card, plugged in the decoder 8 pin plug, powered up my Digitrax Zephyr Xtra, and hey presto I could run the loco forward and reverse. I don't have the speaker connected yet, that will be next. Then I can reinstall the body, and move on to the next step, whatever that is.

Peter B.

Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
Back to top
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mb300e4m
Offline mb300e4m  
#14 Posted : 12 June 2017 01:29:46(UTC)
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mb300e4m


Joined: 07/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 424
Location: Florida
Originally Posted by: mb300e4m Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Minok Go to Quoted Post
If you buy a decoder that already has the sound files in it it's easy. The hardest part is stowing the speaker in the loco.

Well there is also the DCC controller setup to be sure. But that won't of be needed even for a loco that was fully DCC equipped from the factory. Other than reprogramming the decoder from the std factory address to the one of your choice it's pretty straightforward I thought.

The first conversion I ever did was to replace an early decoder in a Marklin BR53 with an ESU Loksound V4. I got the decoder with the sound installed, but this time I decided I needed to learn how to do it myself.

I took a bold step this morning, I pulled the "bypass" plug from the adapter card, plugged in the decoder 8 pin plug, powered up my Digitrax Zephyr Xtra, and hey presto I could run the loco forward and reverse. I don't have the speaker connected yet, that will be next. Then I can reinstall the body, and move on to the next step, whatever that is.

Peter B.


I found a YouTube video today that was suggested by a colleague, despite the programmer using a different language (German), I was able to follow along and figure out how to load a sound file. It is easy when you know how. Some "Peter Rabbit" instructions from ESU would have helped. I have also downloaded an unofficial 2014 manual and it helped too.

Now I need to make a few adjustments to the order of the Function buttons, then I should be all set to go; with a bit of luck and a big stick. I realise that the loco is not a Marklin, but decoders are decoders are decoders. Help here with my current project will be very useful when I upgrade some of my older Marklin loks.

Thanks go to all the members who contributed.

Peter B.
Peter B.
In Sunny Florida most of the time.
Marklin, Trix Express, Trix Twin, Fleischmann, Liliput, Hornby Dublo, and Others, 2 & 3 Rail, AC, DC and Digital, Course Scale Wheels & Fine, 1935 to 1960s usually.
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