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Offline DaleSchultz  
#1 Posted : 13 April 2017 22:27:51(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
I often see posts asking about resistor values, so here is an attempt to provide some data for various supply voltages....

http://cabin-layout.blogspot.com/2017/04/led-lighting-circuits.html
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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Offline PJMärklin  
#2 Posted : 14 April 2017 04:13:40(UTC)
PJMärklin

Australia   
Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2,210
Location: Hobart, Australia
Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz Go to Quoted Post
I often see posts asking about resistor values, so here is an attempt to provide some data for various supply voltages....

http://cabin-layout.blogspot.com/2017/04/led-lighting-circuits.html



and another, if I may :

http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Erpaisley4/LEDcalc.html
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by PJMärklin
Offline Minok  
#3 Posted : 14 April 2017 23:01:15(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,311
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Its always seemed odd that they are called Light Emitting Diodes, when they really are better named Light Emitting Semiconductors. Because LEDs in general suck at being usable diodes due to their very low failure voltage (Vr) as opposed to a specified break-down (non fatal) voltage (Vbr) (ie you need a diode to protect the diode), and they have a higher forward voltage drop than simple silicon diodes that only have 0.7v forward voltage drops.

They really are semiconductor lights, as they have been designed for their light emitting characteristics and not for diode behavior.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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Offline ealab  
#4 Posted : 11 May 2017 08:22:31(UTC)
ealab


Joined: 09/02/2014(UTC)
Posts: 17
Location: SOUTHERN FINLAND, PAIMIO
Hello/ Terve!

In fact, I use LED-resistors directly 2K2- 3K3, 125mW. And each has it´s own resistors. Because the brightness of the LEDs is enough, even to the headlights of the locomotives. LED current typically range 3-5mA. This is a 12V/NEM system. And when I use 5V low- dropout regulators..... Therefore, if 3 LEDs are connected in series and 1 LED is shorted, then then current of other LEDs will increase considerably. Maybe too much. It is also easier to find fault with separate resistors.


Best regards from Finland.

ealab

Edited by user 12 May 2017 08:04:00(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline river6109  
#5 Posted : 11 May 2017 14:18:41(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,716
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
since I've been converting loco to digital I've been using Led's, first I started of with 1,8mm tower and 3mm round and some 5mm for the Santa Fe diesel loco's headlights but things have improved since than and I use mainly smd leds with various sizes, from 604 to 1200 and the same goes for resistors, they take up much less room.
I've converted many carriages with led lights and some of them amount to 10-12 carriages, all having about 12 led's within. these are divided into 4 groups (3 led's each) and all my carriage lights are powered by the loco decoder via electrical couplings.

instead of buying expensive interior lights I make them myself, for open car carriages I use led strips and for compartment coarches I make them up myself, configure them in such a way that toilet, gangway and individual compartment are all lit in the right place, it also gives me the choice of leaving some compartment without light, like the prototype.

having an enormous amount of passenger carriages it would have cost me an arm and a leg and by doing it yourself helped me keeping the costs down.
for instance I've just working on a SBB Re 460 with Swiss light change and added red marker lights either single or double.

regards.,

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Minok  
#6 Posted : 11 May 2017 18:14:30(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,311
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
all my carriage lights are powered by the loco decoder via electrical couplings.


Is there a how-to or lessons learned from this endevour? My plan is also to run power out of the Lok via its decoder to a micro-relay to the couplers.
Beyond the "how difficult/easy was it to find the tap on the factory decoder to pull power from", and the "whats the wiring inside the loco needed"... any tips would be appreciated.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Minok
Offline dominator  
#7 Posted : 12 May 2017 03:03:39(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1,196
Location: Kerikeri
thanks guys. this is an interesting subject in which I will be getting stuck into during the coming winter. Very helpful

I will be working on analogue engines/loco's and my problem I will be dealing with is how to switch the circuit for the change of direction of head lights, without having to make up a mickey mouse reversing switch. If anyone knows of a micro switch that will work in ac, i would appreciate the help in locating something.

Dereck
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
Offline river6109  
#8 Posted : 12 May 2017 03:23:41(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,716
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: Minok Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
all my carriage lights are powered by the loco decoder via electrical couplings.


Is there a how-to or lessons learned from this endevour? My plan is also to run power out of the Lok via its decoder to a micro-relay to the couplers.
Beyond the "how difficult/easy was it to find the tap on the factory decoder to pull power from", and the "whats the wiring inside the loco needed"... any tips would be appreciated.


I didn't want to continue here so I set up a new topic under Workshop = wiring

regards.,

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by river6109
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