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Offline ktsolias  
#1 Posted : 01 March 2017 11:03:08(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
I have a beautiful Märklin Crocodile 3352 Ce 6/8III SBB in Brown color from 1987.

This Loco is the first Crocodile with metal body after the 3015.
The frame is similar to the previews models with the plastic body and actually the same period the Green Crocodile 3356 had a plastic body.
Later the 3556 came with metal body. Is exactly the same with the 3352 in green color and 5 star motor.

The 3352 has a DCM 3-pole motor, relays with electronic circuit reverse unit, and Swiss light change (only white, no red).

IMG_7678_resize.JPG

The conversion planned as follows
1. 60941 5 pole motor
2. mLD/3 decoder with 4 AUX functions
3. LED lights
a. Front-rear white-red Swiss changeover
b. Cabin lights
4. No sound

This is not an easy conversion. Is quite tricky.
The conversion take about five months to complete.

The problems are:
1. The very limited space in the Loco
2. The light changeover

I gave solutions to all the problems and the conversion is a great success.
We will discuss the problems and the solutions in time.

The same conversion apply exactly to 3556 and other models with the same frame (3056, 3652, etc) with small differences mainly on the light holder, but there are many possibilities for the lights.

I hope that this will be interesting.

Thanks
Best regards
Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#2 Posted : 02 March 2017 09:49:48(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
The Loco is in excellent condition like new. (actually is 30 years old)
Run perfect in analog mode.

IMG_res_11141.JPG

Opening the Loco is very easy: Just one screw.

Inside:

IMG_res_09113.JPG

IMG_res_09122.JPG

You can see what I mean that the space inside is limited....

IMG_res_09121.JPG

And the Lights

IMG_res_09129.JPG

Continue with a total strip-down...


IMG_res_09144.JPG

IMG_res_09151.JPG

Disconnect everything....

IMG_res_09149.JPG

Everything is disconnected.

There is no need to remove the driving rods, just latter you can change the traction tires.

I always disconnect the front and rear bogie with the couplers, to be more free during the conversion

IMG_res_09215.JPG

Keep everything in order....

The final result:

IMG_res_09163.JPG

We are ready for the next step: Cleaning and inspection...

Costas
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Offline river6109  
#3 Posted : 02 March 2017 13:32:07(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,614
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I've converted mine with ball bearings, Swiss light functions and sound decoder

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline ktsolias  
#4 Posted : 02 March 2017 14:13:50(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
I've converted mine with ball bearings, Swiss light functions and sound decoder

John


John

I haven't the right tools for the ball bearings. Definitely is better. May be later on...

The sound is just a question of cost!!! (60 € more....) Actually is the same with a speaker in the middle part of the Loco.

I did the Swiss light functions as you will see.

Costas

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Offline dickinsonj  
#5 Posted : 03 March 2017 01:48:03(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,675
Location: Crozet, Virginia
I have an old favorite, my beautiful 3356 waiting in the queue for its updates, so this thread is really interesting to me. Cool

Someone else converted it to digital for me a very long time ago and my upgrade will fix several mistakes that he made.

Tom (HO) pointed out that there is a physical magnet conflict in that model when going to a DC permanent magnet and that should be easier to deal with considering the plastic (yuck) body. At least that is my hope.

But that croc is still a beauty and it is one of my oldest Märklin locos, so I love it and want it to run and sound like new again. Actually since it hit my rails in analog with no sound, much better than new again. BigGrin
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline river6109  
#6 Posted : 03 March 2017 02:55:54(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,614
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Jim wrote:

Actually since it hit my rails in analog with no sound, much better than new again. BigGrin


strange
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline dickinsonj  
#7 Posted : 03 March 2017 03:12:39(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,675
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Jim wrote:

Actually since it hit my rails in analog with no sound, much better than new again. BigGrin


strange


OK, I agree - that was poorly worded.

What I meant was: It was born as an analog, 3 pole dcm loco with no sound. A pretty model and a favorite of mine but primitive.

After upgrading it will be a 5 pole, digital model with load compensation and sound.

Hence it will be much better than it was when it was when new - at least IMHO.

Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline grnwtrs  
#8 Posted : 03 March 2017 05:01:44(UTC)
grnwtrs

United States   
Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 669
Location: El Sobrante, California
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Jim wrote:

Actually since it hit my rails in analog with no sound, much better than new again. BigGrin


strange


OK, I agree - that was poorly worded.

What I meant was: It was born as an analog, 3 pole dcm loco with no sound. A pretty model and a favorite of mine but primitive.

After upgrading it will be a 5 pole, digital model with load compensation and sound.

Hence it will be much better than it was when it was when new - at least IMHO.



That was/is my first Kroc, brown & metal if memory serves me right. Never hit the rails,
turned out to be a shelf queen without any shelfLaugh

Gotta do better with the baby Krocs.

Regards,
gene
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Offline ktsolias  
#9 Posted : 03 March 2017 09:41:03(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Next step is the very well cleaning of the trucks, motor housing, gears....

IMG_res_09170.JPG

Close inspection (and inspection of HD photos) .....

IMG_res_09166.JPG

No problems detected

IMG_res_09168.JPG

You can notice the small bronze soldering plug on the front track, this is used as another ground (brown) connection.
This is necessary because the frame is articulated. In later models has been replaced with a screw and a plug.
I left it as it was and I haven't any problems.
But you can do 2M threads and put a screw.

IMG_res_09169.JPG

IMG_res_09167.JPG

IMG_res_09165.JPG

Everything OK time for the next step: Motor replacement

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#10 Posted : 03 March 2017 10:44:42(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Next step: Motor replacement

The motor replacement with the 60941 motor looks straightforward...
But is not !!!

There is a well known problem with the magnet.

The permanent magnet from the 60941 is much thicker than the original coil magnet.

IMG_res_09137.JPG

The space inside the middle body part is limited and the new magnet can't move freely on curves because is in contact with the thicker part of the body on the Left side (where the green insulators are).

IMG_09209_mFrame.JPG

You will notice the problem later with the Loco completed with derailments on curves, because everything is OK in neutral position !!!!

Märklin had a special magnet for the models with the 6090 motor with a cut on the left upper side of the motor.

Motor magnet file.jpg

This I think is no anymore available.

So I decide to file a bit the upper left corner of the magnet.

IMG_res_07711.JPG

You have to dis-malt the magnet to do that, and be very careful don't leave any small pieces of metal on the magnet.

IMG_res_07712.JPG

You can do either with a Dremmel or with a file.

IMG_res_07714.JPG

The finished magnet

IMG_res_09140.JPG

Comparison with the old coilmagnet.

IMG_res_09154a.JPG

After that the assembly of the new motor is very easy:

Magnet:

IMG_res_09757_res_motor_res_2.JPG

Rotor:

IMG_res_09758_res_motor_res_3.JPG

Motor cover:

IMG_res_09761_res_motor_res_4.JPG

The complete truck

IMG_res_09761_res_resize.JPG

Check the motor with 9 - 16 V DC both directions: OK

Connect the frames of the Loco and put on the Middle Part of the body temporally.

Check that it run smoothly without problems on the curves. (I did it without brushes and with another loco to pull the Croco around the layout).

Everything OK!!!

So far so good....

Be ready for the next step: Decoder

Thanks All of you, for your interest and your nice comments and likes!!!

Regards

Costas

Edited by user 03 March 2017 14:40:34(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline ktsolias  
#11 Posted : 03 March 2017 10:50:49(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
I have an old favorite, my beautiful 3356 waiting in the queue for its updates, so this thread is really interesting to me. Cool

Someone else converted it to digital for me a very long time ago and my upgrade will fix several mistakes that he made.

Tom (HO) pointed out that there is a physical magnet conflict in that model when going to a DC permanent magnet and that should be easier to deal with considering the plastic (yuck) body. At least that is my hope.

But that croc is still a beauty and it is one of my oldest Märklin locos, so I love it and want it to run and sound like new again. Actually since it hit my rails in analog with no sound, much better than new again. BigGrin


I have done the conversion of the 3356 as well but without red taillights.

Don't touch the body!!!!

Only the magnet...

Costas
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Offline dickinsonj  
#12 Posted : 04 March 2017 01:47:27(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,675
Location: Crozet, Virginia
Originally Posted by: ktsolias Go to Quoted Post


Don't touch the body!!!!

Only the magnet...
Costas

Yes - that sound right Costas, and thanks for the advice! That means that it would be the same for the metal or the plastic bodies - a dumb comment on my part. I might have finished and then wondered why it derailed on curves! Blushing

I will file off the corner of the magnet as you show in those images - it is very nice to see your pictures before I start in on my upgrade!
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline ktsolias  
#13 Posted : 04 March 2017 12:41:26(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: ktsolias Go to Quoted Post


Don't touch the body!!!!

Only the magnet...
Costas

Yes - that sound right Costas, and thanks for the advice! That means that it would be the same for the metal or the plastic bodies - a dumb comment on my part. I might have finished and then wondered why it derailed on curves! Blushing

I will file off the corner of the magnet as you show in those images - it is very nice to see your pictures before I start in on my upgrade!


I don't know if the bodies are exactly the same,

I did first the 3352 for me (metal body) and later the 3356 for a friend. I did the filling of the magnet without any measurement. Looks that is the same but I can't be sure.

You can try with the DC magnet on and if there is a problem you can do it....

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#14 Posted : 06 March 2017 10:54:24(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
The next step is the installation of the Decoder.

I decide to install the decoder in the front part of the frame (in the place where the mechanical relay was), and the PCB for the lights in the middle part of the frame (where the electronic circuit was).

There are two mLD/3 decoders that can be used.

The 60982 and 60972

IMG_res_09197.JPG

The difference between those two is only the packaging.
The 60982 (left) is in a warped plastic and has the wires soldered on the decoder (14 wires) and the color code of the wires is the NEM!!!
The 60972 (right) is with 21 pin base and the wires have the standard Märklin color code.
The only real difference is that with the 21 pin base you can easily change the decoder with a sound one (60977 in this case) plug a speaker and the Loco has sound.....without any soldering work !!!!

The problem with 60972 is that is big and can't fit in the limited space of the front part of the body.

IMG_res_09208.JPG

The 60982 on the other side fits perfect.

IMG_res_09207.JPG

So I install the 60982 with two side adhesive tape.

The wires that will not be used just sorted a bit and left behind the decoder.

The soldering of red and black wires is straightforward. Only I solder the black wire in two places: The plug on the lower side of the motor and the small plug on the front frame, for better ground.

IMG_11153_1.JPG

The chocks connected to the motor and the grey and orange wire to the chocks

IMG_res_11129_1.JPG

And now we are ready for the final and more difficult part of this conversion the lights....

Regards

Costas
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Offline ktsolias  
#15 Posted : 06 March 2017 11:50:52(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
The Swiss light changeover with only white lights is easy and can be done with a small circuit with 4 diodes, and does not need any function except the f0 for the light changeover.

The red taillight on the other hand is a problem.
There are solutions from Märklin in different Swiss Locomotives that are different depending on the time and the Loco.

There are many solutions but the main difference is if you will use 1 or 2 functions to control the red taillight.

The solutions with one function are more complicated and in the limited space of this Loco you must use PCB with to many SMD components ( 5 transistors plus diodes, resistors....).

Märklin used a solution like this in 3956x Crocodiles with part no 606218. This part is no longer available and in newer Locos they use simpler solutions.

On the other hand the 2 functions solution is easier.

As far I had two AUX functions available I decide to follow the easier for me solution.

So the functions will be

f0 (f0-front: white, f0-rear: yellow): the light changeover with control of the white taillight

AUX 1 (green): Control of the red taillight in the rear part of the Loco
AUX 2 (violet): Control of the red taillight in the front part of the Loco

AUX 3 (violet/yellow): Front cabin light
AUX 4 (violet/white) : Rear cabin light

The circuit plan of the Loco is this one (NEM color code):

Theoretical Circuit.jpg

The parts used:

Values Table.png

The white LEDs are actually Golden White. The resistor values can be different according to the LEDs that will be used.

I checked it on the breadboard with success:

Front direction white taillight

IMG_res_10556.JPG

Front direction red taillight

IMG_res_10557.JPG

Rear direction white taillight

IMG_res_10558.JPG

Rear direction red taillight

IMG_res_10559.JPG

So after the theory we have to do it.....

First I decide to use 1.8mm LEDs on the sockets of the original bulbs, with small modifications and use the light transferring lenses as they were.

So you can see the result:

Front of the panel with the three LEDS

IMG_res_11125.JPG

Rear of the panel (I used the original plugs for the LEDs (4 of them) plus one small hole from where I pass the common (+) of the white and red LED)

IMG_res_11124.JPG

The panel in place

IMG_res_11133_1.JPG

Do it 2 times one for each side of the Loco.

Some remarks:

In the diagram you can notice that I put the drooping resistors on the (+) of the LED's (blue wire) and not on the (-) as I do normally. That has not any effect and in this case the PCB is simpler this way...

I have stop using protective diodes for a long time, and so far I never had a problem.
The use of diodes is may be useful with decoders without protection of the final stages.
Of course that make the whole circuit simpler....

I have leave now and I will be come back tomorrow with the PCB and the cabin lights


Costas

Edited by user 06 March 2017 23:45:53(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline ktsolias  
#16 Posted : 07 March 2017 10:20:10(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Next step is the PCB

The plan of the PCB:

PCB_draw.jpg

Is a 10x6 holes board
This view is from the component side.

The small 10x6 PCB

IMG_res_10540.JPG

Cutting the cooper strips with 3mm drill

IMG_res_10553.JPG

The screw an the washers for the installation where the old PCB was

IMG_res_10549.JPG

The components soldered on the PCB

IMG_res_10620.JPG

An the Front Cabin Light LED

IMG_res_11120.JPG

The soldering side

IMG_res_11123.JPG

Next the wiring of the PCB and the Loco in general

IMG_res_11153.JPG

You must be very careful with the Rear Cabin Light as the space is very limited.

IMG_res_11154_1.JPG

Everything finished in order

IMG_res_11156.JPG

Final view of the converted Loco

IMG_res_11150.JPG

The Loco run excellent.

The mLD/3 decoders have excellent running characteristics far more better than the previews generation decoders.

The slow speed is magic.

I will arrange to do a video from the 3352 conversion as well.

And finally the light functions of the 3352

IMG_res_11221.JPG

IMG_res_11220.JPG

IMG_res_11222.JPG

IMG_res_11223.JPG

IMG_res_11224.JPG

Thanks a lot for your interest and your patience.
I put a lot of photos and give a lot of details not for the experienced members of the forum but for the members who are new in conversions.
I hope that this will be a tease for many Märklin fun to give live to old beauties and put them on the layouts again...

And believe me I enjoy so much this conversion and I am planning to change lights to all my Swiss Locos...

Thanks all of you

Regards

Costas

eg In case of any question don't hesitate to ask. There are not silly questions!!! All of us learn a lot from the question and the answers...
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Offline jvuye  
#17 Posted : 07 March 2017 12:21:33(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Thank you for this Costas.
Your professional level work is an inspiration! (And that includes also the pictures and drawings!!)
The light is the cab is very realistic! (Yes I have seen the real thing in Erstfeld, Switzerland!Smile Wink )
I still have a few locos with older set-ups....and you have now definitely re-awaken my interest in taking them out of boxes and display cases to perform some surgery!
I'll share a few with you all as I progress!
Cheers
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline Ross  
#18 Posted : 07 March 2017 23:27:37(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 867
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hello Costas,

I enjoyed your locomotive upgrade and the details you provided will help others wanting to do the same.

I thought I would add my article as a new topic linked to yours so people can see the different methods that people have done for their crocodile upgrades.

I hope the combined information gives help to the members wanting to do such upgrades.

Ross' Article
Ross
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Offline ktsolias  
#19 Posted : 08 March 2017 09:46:11(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Hello
Jacques and Ross
Thanks a lot for your commends!!!

I hope that other people will follow us to do professional like conversions

I have seen conversions very badly done and some of them they had destroy the Locos!!!!

I do conversions for me (about 25 Locos waiting...), for friends, and a small number of professional ones.

In the last category I do usually only basic conversions because the cost of the time for more complicated is very high.

My guidelines are

1. No modifications to the frame or the body. (If any minimal).
2. Keep all the old stuff so will be very easy the reversal of the procedure.
3. Write notes and plans for all the changes that I am doing, plus lists of the items that had be used.
4. Keep the plans with the Loco with the other papers for future reference. Märklin Locos have a life that is bigger than our life.....

I enjoy very much the discussions about conversions.

Before the start of a conversion I do a review of all the literature, and also put questions in the forum.

I think that this part of the job as well the theoretical planning is the most important and most difficult.

Hope that we will see more ideas from other people as well.

Thanks again

Costas
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Offline river6109  
#20 Posted : 08 March 2017 10:14:20(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,614
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
my conversion is very similar with an ESU sound decoder/21 pin adapter plate, 23mm round speaker, ball bearings. I can't remember how I did the Swiss light change over but all had been done with smd led's, haven't installed a cab light.

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline Bart  
#21 Posted : 20 March 2017 13:47:44(UTC)
Bart

Netherlands   
Joined: 13/05/2002(UTC)
Posts: 670
Originally Posted by: ktsolias Go to Quoted Post


The circuit plan of the Loco is this one (NEM color code):

Theoretical Circuit.jpg

Costas


Great work Costas, congratulations!

In my conversions, I have used the standard 622550 diode boards for SBB light changes, but your board is more convenient, including the resistors.

I'm still puzzled by your circuit plan:
as far as I see, you always have 3 white leds on with F0(f) or F0(r).
How would you switch on 2 front leds and one red at the rear, while leaving the rear white led off?
Is this due to the voltage difference between the white and red led?
*Bart
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Offline ktsolias  
#22 Posted : 21 March 2017 10:51:07(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Hi Bart

Thanks for your good comments

Your notice is correct. If you look at the plan both red and white LED's have to light together.

But that does not happen!!!

My basis was 622550 PCB,

I had put the Diodes on the bread board. Then I notice that when F1 or F2 where ON the red was ON and the white OFF, as you can see in the breadboard photos better.

I am not an electronic engineer so I can't really explain that. Is possible that the reason is the one that you mentioned.

But is working !!!!!

May another member with better knowledge on electronics can explain that to us.....

The value of the resistors has nothing to do. The difference in value is why the R1 and R4 are for one led that gives light to two Lenses so the experiments so to me that has to be a little brighter than the L2-L3 LEDs that give Light only in one lens

Of course there is a difference in the Vf of the white LEDs is 12V and the Vf for the Red LEds 2,05V.

Any way as far as it working is OK for me and I have already use it in two Ae 6/6

Thanks again

Costas

Edited by user 21 March 2017 17:53:09(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline Bart  
#23 Posted : 21 March 2017 23:11:20(UTC)
Bart

Netherlands   
Joined: 13/05/2002(UTC)
Posts: 670
Yes, I assume that the 'resistance'/voltage drop over the white 12V/10mA led is so large (approx. 10-fold larger than for the standard 2V/20mA led), that it does not light once the red led is switched in parallel.

A very elegant solution!
This requires only 4 decoder outputs for Swiss lights including white/red marker lights,
without the need for the classic 605242 circuit board that has been standard in the Re460 locos.

Thank you
*Bart
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Offline ktsolias  
#24 Posted : 24 March 2017 10:06:13(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 608
Location: Athens
Originally Posted by: Bart Go to Quoted Post
Yes, I assume that the 'resistance'/voltage drop over the white 12V/10mA led is so large (approx. 10-fold larger than for the standard 2V/20mA led), that it does not light once the red led is switched in parallel.

A very elegant solution!
This requires only 4 decoder outputs for Swiss lights including white/red marker lights,
without the need for the classic 605242 circuit board that has been standard in the Re460 locos.

Thank you


Hi Bart

Yesterday night surfing around I find this link

http://www.h0-modellbahn...l-Schaltungsentwurf.html

have a look at this.

Is interesting.

He gives a solution like mine. I will check it on the breadboard the sooner possible

Costas
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Offline Benders  
#25 Posted : 16 August 2023 09:48:26(UTC)
Benders

New Zealand   
Joined: 11/05/2020(UTC)
Posts: 6
Location: Wellington
[img]Costas
I have a Hamo 8356 loco that I want to convert to digital. My current setup is an the 3 rail analogue M track system.
I have read numerous Marklin forum discussions on this subject (digital conversion) and am keen to attempt it.
My question is whether the Hamo 8356 is similar to your 3352 conversion?
Attached pics with body removed.
Thanks
Benders

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Offline marklinist5999  
#26 Posted : 16 August 2023 13:10:23(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,044
Location: Michigan, Troy
Thank you for all the photos and explanations!! Very helpful should I ever decide to convert my 8356 hamo croc.I expected that the new motor magnet body would have to be ground a bit to fit.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by marklinist5999
Offline Eurobahnfan  
#27 Posted : 16 August 2023 15:39:21(UTC)
Eurobahnfan

United States   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 407
Location: Stockton, CA
I had a 3352 I was going to convert, but found the 3652 factory digital version at this year’s Euro West in near new condition, thus saving me the trouble. I may upgrade the decoder soon, but it runs quite well for now. Good luck with your project… I look forward to reading of its progress
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Eurobahnfan
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