Welcome to the forum   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Poll Question : Which glues & paints do you use/recommend?
Choice Votes Statistics
  Total 12 100%
Guests can't see poll choices and poll results. Try login or register. Guests can't vote. Try login or register.
Share
Options
View
Go to last post in this topic Go to first unread post in this topic
Offline Minok  
#1 Posted : 13 December 2016 22:17:01(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,230
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
So having to build a kit sooner than I'd planned, I realized "crap, I didn't get glue nor paint".

So the recommendation is Revell Contacta (in the Busch instructions) or an UHU equivalent plastic cement.

So searching, in the US I can get Revell cement, but its a long lead time (month?) from Amazon.. so as is often the case the US distributed products are not the same as in the rest of the world.

So Testor seems to be readily available in the US and its hobby shops. Testor Model Master appears to be a stand-in for Revel Contacta in terms of the glue and its application device. Does that seem reasonable? Or for long term building of kits do I need to order some Revell Contacta ?

Plastic Cement Options:

  • Revell Contacta
  • Testor Model Master
  • Faller Super Expert Plastic Cement (orange bottle) (and whats the diff between that and the plain "Expert" in the white bottle?)
  • Tamiya ?
  • Plastruct Plastic Weld (added post poll publish)
  • <others?>


I don't have an issue with using any particular one, and want to not use the viscous child friendly stuff of our youth, but paying 2x for a tube that is the same chemicals for an import doesn't necessarily make sense.

--

And paints... I've been painting hobby gaming figures for a long time, all with water based acrylic paints, and so my first instinct is to use that paint as well, such as Vallejo paints (don't think i need to go Citadel). Testor, from our childhood plastic model days, of course makes oil based enamel paints (that use a thinner to control). The enamel paints are of course more durable, but as the painted surfaces won't get much handling, is it necessary? A quality acrylic that is designed to work on metal or plastic should work well, right? What are others using paint-wise?


  • Testor Enamel (req solvent thinner)
  • Testor Acrylic (water based) basic or Model Master line (Acryl)
  • Vallejo Acrylic (water based)
  • Citadel Acrylic (water based)
  • <others?>


And with an acrylic, do you top coat with a matte finish to protect?

And there is a good FAQ by Revell : http://www.revell.com/support/faq.html#glue
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/Minok1217/
Offline waltklatt  
#2 Posted : 13 December 2016 22:29:25(UTC)
waltklatt

United States   
Joined: 17/03/2012(UTC)
Posts: 138
Minok,

Try Gorilla super gel glue.
Works for me.
Use sparingly as it sticks fast.
Make sure both ends are a tight as possible before glue, if not sand down till tight.
and make sure you align pieces correctly, no room for adjustment as this works fast.
Too much will take longer to dry and leave a mess and white residue all over.
Can paint over with no issues.

You pick the acrylic paint, as any works, mine is from Micheal's arts and crafts store.

Walter
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by waltklatt
Offline kweekalot  
#3 Posted : 13 December 2016 22:37:13(UTC)
kweekalot

Netherlands   
Joined: 27/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,306
Location: Holland
The white Faller bottle is the best.
Most hobbyists prefer the Revell bottle, but Revell glue residue/stains will discolour the plastic after a few months a bit more, than the Faller stains.

The trick is not to make stains, a professional will do this by using the cappilar effect of the glue.

I use Humbrol enamal paints.

Marco
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kweekalot
Offline Minok  
#4 Posted : 13 December 2016 23:03:17(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,230
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Originally Posted by: kweekalot Go to Quoted Post

I use Humbrol enamal paints.

Marco


So you see a benefit from using enamel paint (over acrylic) - can you elaborate on why you use enamel ?
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/Minok1217/
Offline kweekalot  
#5 Posted : 13 December 2016 23:20:07(UTC)
kweekalot

Netherlands   
Joined: 27/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,306
Location: Holland
Originally Posted by: Minok Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kweekalot Go to Quoted Post

I use Humbrol enamal paints.

Marco


So you see a benefit from using enamel paint (over acrylic) - can you elaborate on why you use enamel ?

Well, all modelers I know use Humbrol enamel, the results on my paint projects are (very) good and the job is easy because it's such a great paint.
I use it for years on my 1960s polystyrene plastic kits (photo 1) and more recently on wooden pre-war replica buildings I build from scratch (photo 2).

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage



thanks 2 users liked this useful post by kweekalot
Offline PMPeter  
#6 Posted : 14 December 2016 00:34:20(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,137
Location: Port Moody, BC
For my building kits I use the Vollmer Supranol glue. However, it appears to be sold out everywhere and not available at the moment through Viessmann. It has been on back order at Lokshop for 2 months now. I tried to order the Faller instead and was told it cannot be transported by air and can only be delivered by ground means within Europe. So today I bought the Humbrol Precision Poly Cement for a try.

For paint I really love the Vallejo Model Air acrylic paints for air brushing and top them with either a Vallejo matt finish or Testor's Dull Coat.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by PMPeter
Offline DB Fan  
#7 Posted : 14 December 2016 02:28:36(UTC)
DB Fan

United States   
Joined: 01/03/2016(UTC)
Posts: 211
Location: Colorado
I only use Faller Expert and Super Expert and it is readily available like Ebay and Reynaulds(has better pricing). To me the difference between the 2 is that the Super Expert seems to set quicker then the Expert. I usually order several bottles each just incase I get the urge of building kitsBigGrin . After all I got to provide for a N,HO and O scale layout.

Robert
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DB Fan
Offline PhredD  
#8 Posted : 14 December 2016 05:33:52(UTC)
PhredD

United States   
Joined: 16/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 53
Location: Burke, Virginia
Minok,
In addition to building Faller kits, I'm a (decades) long time model aircraft and car builder. On all, I use a combination of Testers/Model Master liquid and/or Plastruct Plastic Weld cement, and whatever super glue the local hobby store is selling these days. I go for a medium viscosity, and usually use an accelerator. On buildings, I like to use the liquid cement so that I have time to manipulate parts (especially walls), and then use spots of super glue and accelerant to lock things in place. All of the cements have held up with no problem over the years.

For paints, I use MM mainly because I've got a large inventory due to the plane and car kits, and mixing it for airbrush use has become second nature. I don't use too much Humbrol because for years it was hard to come across here in the States, but now that's not a problem these days. The drawback I find for enamels is the drying time before you can really handle them, or apply a clear coat (whether gloss or matt). Also, seems Humbrol always takes longer to dry than Testers, in my experience.

I found that I can speed things up by using spray cans. I love Tamiya spray paints, and use them for everything. Some of the colors dry quickly enough that I can work with the parts only 15 minutes after spraying them. Amazing stuff. I also use the big box store cheap spray cans (also Krylon & Rust-Oleum), especially for blacks, gray, flat and gloss white, browns and sand. (Have to compensate for the cost of the Tamiya paints somewhere . . . )

I've used Testors acryl, and like it. I've used Dullcote on everything mentioned above with no problem, but I can't recall if I've Dullcoted any acryl. Back when Polly Scale was still in business, I used their clear coats on that water-based paint. I need to follow Walter's example and try the Michael's acrylic paint route - that certainly opens up the colors selection.

I haven't found wear to be a problem with any of the paints. Bottom line, I think using what you're familiar with is an excellent way to go. I've used all of the above mentioned things on old and new Faller kits with no problems.

Fred
PhredD
Burke, VA USA
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by PhredD
Online DaleSchultz  
#9 Posted : 14 December 2016 17:06:04(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,973
Glue:

whatever glue you select make sure that the dispenser has the long metal needle type tip. This allow small amounts of glue to be deposited very accurately.

I have been using a bottle of Model Master for about a decade with no problems. Have been building mostly Faller kits.

I have a bottle of Testors ready for when the Model master finishes. I see however that its 'needle' is plastic. I may transfer the contents into the Model Master bottle.

I also have a small bottle of Revell contacta (metal needle) which I have not yet tried.

I am sure all the 'stryrene cement' glues are the same stuff. The 'melt' the plastic parts and they weld together again. I would not use superglue.

Paints
For paints, I used to use Humbrol Enamals as a kid. Problem is they need thinnners to clean up and are rather expensive.

I have totally switched over to using based water based acrylic paints. These can be bought cheaply at craft stores and I bought many cheaply at Joann Fabrics. Lots of colors to select from, nice matt type finish and very nice easy cleanup with water. They dry quickly too. I can also use them for dry brushing.
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
Offline Minok  
#10 Posted : 14 December 2016 18:20:36(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,230
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
It does seem that plastic cement all have the same basic chemistry and differ only in a few ways that might affect choice:
- viscosity
- applicator type
- solvent component based on local volatile compounds laws

For paint the similar attributes that differentiate are (of the same type) :
- pigment particle size
- paint container lid and long term maintenance


For the model railroad work the ability to achieve a nice smooth uniform surface (which enamel does well) doesn't seem as critical as it does with car and airplane models.

For the layers applied in out hobby and the quicker drying time that facilitates this along with ability to wash and dry brush seems acrylic is the way to go.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/Minok1217/
Users browsing this topic
OceanSpiders 2.0
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

| Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2022, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.657 seconds.