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Offline ixldoc  
#1 Posted : 29 November 2016 06:34:59(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi all,
Centre stud light rust has always been a problem in Brisbane where I live, unless my trains are run frequently, which they are not.
I was recently given an unusual 2 rail track cleaner which made use of a Fleischmann track cleaning rubber.
I thought about using it for the centre studs on my C track by relieving the outer edges and letting the centre section touch the studs.
I am not happy with the abrasive rubber material which leaves a lot of gritty debris on the track which usually ends up in gears and tears.

This is the original cleaner and it is clear it is a big solid beast, either cast or milled from a block of aluminium. Milling marks are visible under the bogies. I have altered the wheel width to suit Marklin and replaced the Kadee couplers with a rough pair of horn/bow type for testing the idea.
The Fleischmann rubber drops into the well and the close fitting ( but not tight) aluminium block drops on top.

Stud Cleaner 1.jpg
Stud Cleaner 2.jpg
Stud Cleaner 3.jpg

I have replaced the Fleischmann rubber with a block of nylon and contoured the leading edges similar to a Marklin slider.
I milled two grooves in the underside to allow the block to rest down on the studs with a small clearance to the tracks.
I fitted a strip of fine garnet abrasive belt to the centre ( more on this later).
The block is a very loose fit and is held central to the track by the weight on top which indexes with two largish screw heads.
This arrangement allows for up and down movement of the block over turnout studs.
It is a simple procedure to loosen the retaining screws and slip another piece of belt in as required.
( the photos show an old piece of belt in place which I used to develop the idea.)

Stud Cleaner 4.jpg
Stud Cleaner 5.jpg
Stud Cleaner 6.jpg
Stud Cleaner 7.jpg
Stud Cleaner 8.jpg

The fine abrasive belt comes mounted on a spring loaded pencil like sander and is readily available here. It is the finest of four grades available. I wanted to find a reliable source for replacement as required. It is made in the US and appears to be fine garnet which lasts a lot longer than other abrasive papers, and of course is already the correct width.

Stud Cleaner 9.jpg
Stud Cleaner 10.jpg

One pass around my track seems to be enough to brighten the studs. I push it with a loco the clean the studs ahead.

A short video. Hope it shows the salient points.



Thanks for looking.
Howard.
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Offline Joseph Meiring  
#2 Posted : 29 November 2016 06:52:08(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Thanx Howard - my train room (here in Cape Town) is a converted garage, a solid concrete building; which gets VERY cold in the winter months, so I have the same problem as you - I dont always run the trains very often in winter and the ensuing rust on the studs is a real pain - I normally resort to sending out a start set tank loco around all the tracks at full speed, and this does clean the studs quite well, only after a good few laps tho, but your idea looks excellent!
Many thanks, Joe
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Offline Bigdaddynz  
#3 Posted : 29 November 2016 11:02:39(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: ixldoc Go to Quoted Post
I fitted a strip of fine garnet abrasive belt to the centre...


Probably not a good idea as anything abrasive will remove whatever original protective coating is still left on the rails and sanding it off will cause the rails / centre studs to rust even faster.

Better to use a track rubber or something non abrasive like the Lux track cleaner cars.

Offline ixldoc  
#4 Posted : 29 November 2016 12:59:58(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi David,
Thanks for that.
I have only seen track rubbers with fairly coarse grit embedded. Are there others? The belt I used is a very fine finish.
Not sure what the protective coat is. The studs are blackened from new but are immediately shiny after running the first slider over them in my experience here.
Only the tips become rusty anyway. I never clean the tracks unless they collect that black sticky residue and then I use a rag with isopropyl alcohol.
I saw a stud cleaner demonstrated at the Marklin Days last year and the studs were almost half worn down! Possibly from overuse at the show.
I agree the Lux units are very nice and I might have a go at making something similar .
Just spent three glorious weeks in NZ ( our first visit) and the recent quakes ten days after we came home really made us sad.
Cheers,
Howard.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#5 Posted : 29 November 2016 19:11:56(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Peco supply a track rubber - item number PL-41, which I use myself.

UserPostedImage
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Offline Tex  
#6 Posted : 29 November 2016 19:15:51(UTC)
Tex

United States   
Joined: 30/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 276
Location: Houston, Texas
David

I have put a bit of a conductive lubricant on the sliders of my locomotives when they are put into service. Not sure how much it helps but it seemed to be a good idea.

Tex
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Offline DaleSchultz  
#7 Posted : 29 November 2016 20:33:09(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
As mentioned, using abrasive on the studs is not so good in the long run.

Easier than having a special wagon to do it, is just to affix the abrasive to a pick up shoe.
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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Offline ixldoc  
#8 Posted : 29 November 2016 22:24:53(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Easier than having a special wagon to do it, is just to affix the abrasive to a pick up shoe

Hi Dale,
I agree .This was a design exercise to keep me occupied in my retirement as the wagon was given to me.
I have intermittently used a wagon with two sliders mounted, one with applied wet and dry paper over the years.
Used maybe twice per year this has had no visible detrimental effect on the centre studs.

Howard.
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Offline dominator  
#9 Posted : 29 November 2016 22:29:39(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1,195
Location: Kerikeri
If you are going to use an abrasive, why not just get some fine emery cloth and wipe the tracks with it, then use a vacuum cleaner to remove any debris. Those of us that live in sub tropical or tropical locations will always suffer from this so we should do as Utkan does, run your trains often. In my case it helps. I also put a light coating of something which would be frowned apon on this site so I wont say what it is. Use your head.

Dereck
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
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Offline nitramretep  
#10 Posted : 29 November 2016 23:56:28(UTC)
nitramretep

United States   
Joined: 22/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: lower hudson valley, ny
Any abrasive materials (sandpaper or emery cloth) will result in scratches that will increase the surface area for oxidation. Once it is done it cannot be corrected or fixed, Do it at your peril.
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Offline ixldoc  
#11 Posted : 30 November 2016 00:44:51(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Any abrasive materials (sandpaper or emery cloth) will result in scratches that will increase the surface area for oxidation. Once it is done it cannot be corrected or fixed, Do it at your peril.

Hi Peter,
I seem to have touched a nerve here all unwittingly.
If you mean the track, it is stainless steel on C track as far as I know. It has never oxidized in my experience. It can collect the odd bit of oily grime but as I mentioned, I use isopropyl alcohol on cloth or a swab to clean this, never a track rubber.
If you mean the centre studs, even normal use of trains with slider shoes will cause wear and expose the tip to oxidation.
How do you clean your centre studs? Any advice here would be welcome to the forum.

Howard.
Offline Ross  
#12 Posted : 30 November 2016 05:22:02(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hello Howard/All,

Well done Howard. ThumpUp

It's strange how these ideas have cycles. As you have found there are strong feelings about the use of abrasive cleaning, but I published a solution a few years back, in fact July 2008.
I dislike track cleaning rubbers as they are very messy and did I mention that they are also abrasive.Huh

First I cleaned the centre studs
Centre Stud Cleaner article has been made obsolete.

Then I protected the studs.
Centre Stud Lubrication article has been made obsolete.

New article combining the two articles together.
Centre Stud Cleaning and Lubrication

I have included a 9 second video.
Clean & Lube the Centre Rail

A light conductive oil will also work and the application with the lube wheel is very easy. This is the step that most people miss.

To further reduce the oxidization the trains should be in a humidity controlled room.

Edited by user 03 December 2016 05:23:44(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Ross
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Offline ixldoc  
#13 Posted : 30 November 2016 06:04:26(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Ross,
I have been visiting your web site for some years now and I have followed your projects with interest.
Nicely done solution to stud cleaning and application of light oil.

Howard.
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Offline Ross  
#14 Posted : 01 December 2016 04:42:31(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hello Howard/All,

See above for a new YouTube link showing the cleaning and lubrication of the centre rail.


Originally Posted by: ixldoc Go to Quoted Post
Hi Ross,
I have been visiting your web site for some years now and I have followed your projects with interest.
Nicely done solution to stud cleaning and application of light oil.

Howard.


Ross
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Offline ixldoc  
#15 Posted : 01 December 2016 06:27:15(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Ross,
Great video. Would love to play it back in slo-mo.
Howard.
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Offline dominator  
#16 Posted : 01 December 2016 09:46:38(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1,195
Location: Kerikeri
Most of us old fellahs are still using M track. We have to do what we have to do. And yes its a thin oil I use on my tracks but I only use it once. Continuous use seems to do the trick from then on.
Dereck
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#17 Posted : 02 December 2016 09:42:07(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,653
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi Doc,
I use 1200 grit emery (available in hobby stores) which is so fine you could wipe the proverbial.

It is basically a polishing agent.
I do it by hand, but there is no reason it could not be installed on something like what you engineered.
You can get 1500 and 2000 grit emery which is even finer, but I am unsure how effective it is.

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Offline ixldoc  
#18 Posted : 02 December 2016 12:30:32(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Kimball,
I used some jeweller's polishing emery paper at first which had a sort of fabric backing, but it was so fine it simply peeled the abrasive layer off at the first point.
I think your 1200 is the way to go.
I liked the garnet loop because it was easy to cut a new bit off but you can easily cut a strip the right width and length from a sheet of 1200 paper.
Regards,
Howard.
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Offline nitramretep  
#19 Posted : 03 December 2016 04:00:03(UTC)
nitramretep

United States   
Joined: 22/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: lower hudson valley, ny
My comment regarding sandpaper or emery paper use was just the facts as regards any metallic surface, stainless or otherwise. The pick-up shoe rubbing against the center conductor points is entirely different from using an abrasive*. The use of papers rated 800 and above creates another issue, namely the short effective life of the abrasive in terms of track coverage. For example a 1200 paper will clog very fast, after 36" you might find it completely clogged with debris. I do not mean to detract from anyones use of paper abrasives its is their prerogative to do so. The best means of cleaning the rails and the center conductor is by using synthetic non abrasive pads, such as the 3M Blue Non Abrasive Pads. I find that using them without any alcohol or spirits loosens the gunk and following up with a soft cloth pad with alcohol provides a clean and improved conductive track, again all this in my humble opinion after trying variations for almost a year.

* The pick-up shoes are made to be a lesser grade of metal (chrome plated brass I believe)and to wear before the center stud (stainless) is affected, this is according to Marklin.
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Offline Ross  
#20 Posted : 03 December 2016 05:43:10(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hello Peter,

I only use my cleaning train once or twice a year.
I'm able to clean approx 200m of track without having to change the collector shoe so the clogging of the paper isn't an issue for me.

It sounds like your track gets very dirty and you should consider humidity control to reduce the oxidation problems you seem to be having.
Have you constructed a cleaning train as Howard and I have to automate the cleaning process?

Hand cleaning for large layouts isn't an option for me.

As to the best cleaning solution I'm undecided Confused but I'm happy with my solution until I see something better.

PS. the centre studs are not stainless.

Originally Posted by: nitramretep Go to Quoted Post
My comment regarding sandpaper or emery paper use was just the facts as regards any metallic surface, stainless or otherwise. The pick-up shoe rubbing against the center conductor points is entirely different from using an abrasive*. The use of papers rated 800 and above creates another issue, namely the short effective life of the abrasive in terms of track coverage. For example a 1200 paper will clog very fast, after 36" you might find it completely clogged with debris. I do not mean to detract from anyones use of paper abrasives its is their prerogative to do so. The best means of cleaning the rails and the center conductor is by using synthetic non abrasive pads, such as the 3M Blue Non Abrasive Pads. I find that using them without any alcohol or spirits loosens the gunk and following up with a soft cloth pad with alcohol provides a clean and improved conductive track, again all this in my humble opinion after trying variations for almost a year.

* The pick-up shoes are made to be a lesser grade of metal (chrome plated brass I believe)and to wear before the center stud (stainless) is affected, this is according to Marklin.


Ross
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Offline Tom Jessop  
#21 Posted : 03 December 2016 05:59:28(UTC)
Tom Jessop

Australia   
Joined: 14/12/2002(UTC)
Posts: 800
Location: Newcastle NSW Australia


For memory there was mention of stud cleaning on the old MML list. Someone stated that they used the rough under side of a piece of Masonite which was somehow attached underneath a wagon for cleaning purposes , probably some sort of Jig was used to position it to enable it to slide along without derailing . I haven't tried doing any cleaning this way as I use the "M" felt pad for the tracks along with a slim strip of copper on a power slider underneath a wagon being pushed by a locomotive .I also use a product called Traxmagic [sp] on the rail felt pads which seems to do the trick , I have also used Whal oil for considerable years with good results , minor trouble doing studs but it can be done .

Cheers Tom in Oz .
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Offline ixldoc  
#22 Posted : 03 December 2016 06:38:44(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Tom,
A friend of mine recently mentioned the Masonite trick.
I am intrigued by your copper strip on the slider. It must be effective if you have continued to use it. Worth a look into as a project.
Regards,
Howard.
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Offline Tom Jessop  
#23 Posted : 03 December 2016 10:06:57(UTC)
Tom Jessop

Australia   
Joined: 14/12/2002(UTC)
Posts: 800
Location: Newcastle NSW Australia


Some years ago I purchased from epay a track cleaner called Schienen_boy , made of brass with 2 cleaning attachments ,one for catenary which was home made was a panto with attachments to the main body & with a grit paper glued to the collector bar on top . The grit was almost non existent leaving a woven cloth with some grit on the edges . The rail cleaner was a brass block which rode on the tracks. track was cleaned with a strip of 1200 wet & dry & the stud contacts / 3rd rail was cleaned with a copper strip which passed over the working surface of the rail cleaner. This was all held together by machine screws & was held in place on the main body by a a slot which fitted over the brass plate holding the bogies in place . This contraption is usually pushed in front of a loco & then a wagon which "M" made with felt pads behind the engine layed a fine film of either Whal oil or Trackmagic behind as it travelled round the layout .

Howard your working model is very similar in manufacture but you have made a hole in the casting to take a cleaning piece where as mine rides up to the main body in a slot in the brass cleaning block . I like the way yous has been built but would be concerned about the pad catching on studs & then de railing .

I have hopefully attached some photos of the Schienen_ boy to show the differences but doing the same job .



Cheers Tom in Oz .


20150404_161640[1].jpg


20150404_161814[1].jpg


20150404_161735[1].jpg
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Offline utkan  
#24 Posted : 03 December 2016 11:50:19(UTC)
utkan

Turkey   
Joined: 14/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 19,116
Location: Istanbul,


This what I have discovered for that particular issue...RollEyes
Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you...
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Offline PJMärklin  
#25 Posted : 03 December 2016 12:12:49(UTC)
PJMärklin

Australia   
Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2,206
Location: Hobart, Australia
Originally Posted by: utkan Go to Quoted Post


This what I have discovered for that particular issue...RollEyes


Thanks for the (pink) video Mehmet.

But please, this is a family site also !!


Regards,

Philip Wink
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Offline ixldoc  
#26 Posted : 03 December 2016 13:34:31(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Tom and others,
Your track cleaner has made me think about a copper strip and how effective it might be. Will have to experiment. Love the panto cleaner!
My somewhat obsessive nature means I will have to continue to find different solutions I fear!
My cleaning block has the same fore and aft profile as the Marklin slider and so far ( fingers crossed) it has not caught on any studs in either direction.
Cheers,
Howard.
Offline utkan  
#27 Posted : 03 December 2016 17:12:04(UTC)
utkan

Turkey   
Joined: 14/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 19,116
Location: Istanbul,
Originally Posted by: PJMärklin Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: utkan Go to Quoted Post


This what I have discovered for that particular issue...RollEyes


Thanks for the (pink) video Mehmet.

But please, this is a family site also !!


Regards,

Philip Wink


Hi Philip,
I have already warned the Alaska Driver about it...LOL
Cheers,
mehmet

Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you...
Offline Ross  
#28 Posted : 11 September 2017 08:42:34(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hello Howard,

How did you get on with the copper strip experiment?


Originally Posted by: ixldoc Go to Quoted Post
Hi Tom and others,
Your track cleaner has made me think about a copper strip and how effective it might be. Will have to experiment. Love the panto cleaner!
My somewhat obsessive nature means I will have to continue to find different solutions I fear!
My cleaning block has the same fore and aft profile as the Marklin slider and so far ( fingers crossed) it has not caught on any studs in either direction.
Cheers,
Howard.


Ross
Offline dominator  
#29 Posted : 13 September 2017 03:34:26(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1,195
Location: Kerikeri
I agree with Mehmet. Just play with your trains every day.
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
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Offline utkan  
#30 Posted : 13 September 2017 08:33:55(UTC)
utkan

Turkey   
Joined: 14/07/2009(UTC)
Posts: 19,116
Location: Istanbul,
Originally Posted by: dominator Go to Quoted Post
I agree with Mehmet. Just play with your trains every day.

Only"Continuous Use" with your words, DereckThumpUp
Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you...
Offline ixldoc  
#31 Posted : 13 September 2017 12:05:55(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Ross,
I became side tracked by another idea and instead of using copper, I have made a new stud cleaning wagon.
I will put it up in the next few days and explain a bit more.
Regards,
Howard.
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Offline Michael4  
#32 Posted : 13 September 2017 14:17:06(UTC)
Michael4

United Kingdom   
Joined: 02/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 637
Location: England, South Coast
I wonder how 5146 would stand up to the attention of abrasives...hmmm
MrB32  
#33 Posted : 20 September 2017 21:24:56(UTC)
Guest


Joined: 06/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 260

Whilst I admire the ingenuity and craftsmanship on display, I always found that the day you start cleaning your pukos (centre studs), you enter a slippery slope that marks the beginning of the end for your track, or the start of a never-ending story. Things suddenly start to rust, dust gets in places it normally doesn't get into, odd short circuits start occurring.

I have a mixture 50 year old sections of M-track and C-track everywhere else and am restricting my interventions to:
- a regular run of a track cleaning wagon , currently this is the marklin model with felt pads for the outer rails (https://www.maerklin.de/en/products/details/article/46049/)
- vacuuming once a month.
- using a bit of isopropyl alcohol here and there if something is optically wrong (glue, sticky scenery residue for example).

One exception to the above would be when I re commission of M-track bridge sections with integrated track, these are always rusty for some reason. There I use very fine sand paper on the rails then treat them with a product called track magic, once installed, they are submitted to the same routine as the rest of the layout.

I found that environmental conditions, for example temperature fluctuations or frequency of use, play a more important role than dirt or oil on the track in connectivity issues. After all, you just need to go to a real station and have a look at the state of the rails, the frequently used ones will be clean, the less used ones will be rusty...

Coincidentally today, I bumped across a youtube video of the Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg on the topic of cleaning. In this footage, they "simply" send 25 people with PECO track rubber and vacuum cleaners to clean the 12 km of tracks they had at the time. They say they do this twice a year, and recommend a very gentle use of the rubber to avoid damaging the track. This is not a lot considering they have 100s of trains running 10hrs/day and 1000s of daily visitors moving dust.



Offline Dreadnought  
#34 Posted : 20 September 2017 22:42:19(UTC)
Dreadnought

Canada   
Joined: 24/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 418
Location: Niagara, Ontario
At the Treff in Goppingen last week, Lux Models had a new, (to me) centre stud cleaning car. It looks very much like their other track cleaning carts, but had a centre pickup shoe which vibrates across the centre studs. There were two different pads that could be attached, one more abrasive than the other. I am afraid I did not look closely at them to know the difference or how abrasive they are. I do not know the price, but I think Lux tends to be pricy.
Offline ixldoc  
#35 Posted : 30 September 2017 05:53:43(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
So as a follow up to my previous somewhat unwieldy looking centre stud cleaner I settled on a better design with no loading gauge issues.
I also found a better ( even less abrasive) compound to use as the cleaner. This is a fret cleaning rubber as used by guitarists and the last thing they want is to abrade the frets.
I used a Marklin low sided wagon with a holding fork passing through the floor of the wagon and a long phosphor bronze strip at the top to supply gentle downwards pressure.
The tension of the strip is easily adjusted. As the wagon was quite light I made a brass weight for some ballast.
The cleaning block was made from the rubber and another same shaped block made from Delrin with fine emery attached. So far I have only used the rubber as it does the trick.

Stud Cleaner 15.jpg

Stud Cleaner14.jpg

Stud cleaner 13.jpg

Stud Cleaner 12.jpg

Stud cleaner eraser.jpg

A short video.



The Preislerling is just along for the ride.
In passing, the studs look clean and there is no rubber debris left to collect.
Thanks,
Howard.
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Offline Chook  
#36 Posted : 02 October 2017 08:49:32(UTC)
Chook

Australia   
Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 234
Location: Perth, Western Australia.
Thanks Howard. Do you propose to use this same principle to clean the tracks as well as the "pukos"?

Regards............Chook.
Offline Ross  
#37 Posted : 02 October 2017 23:09:21(UTC)
Ross

Australia   
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Howard / All,

I like your new version. As you say it has a better profile and it's interesting to note that the rubber is 1200 grit.

How it performs on C-track only time will tell. Will the centre contacts cut a groove in the rubber and will you have to dress the rubber?

Please let us know.

Ross
Offline ixldoc  
#38 Posted : 02 October 2017 23:43:12(UTC)
ixldoc

Australia   
Joined: 18/11/2015(UTC)
Posts: 220
Location: Brisbane,Australia
Hi Chook- I occasionally ( once or twice per year) have to wipe a section of rail with some isopropyl alcohol on a rag or a track cleaning car with a felt type pad.
I have no plans to use a rubber on the track.

Hi Ross- The rubber is way finer than the Peco or Fleischmann type and is actually very dense and almost solid feeling as you can see from the sharp edges to it's profile.
I was able to shape it using a milling machine and did the curved ends against a facing sanding wheel.I think it could take a fair bit of use before needing re-profiling.
As I only use a stud cleaner few times a year it should last ok. It acts more like a polisher than an abrasive as far as I understand.

Regards, Howard.
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Offline applor  
#39 Posted : 23 October 2018 04:37:32(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,653
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
I am encountering issues with my new K track centre studs here in Brisbane now and while this is an older thread it is still relevant.

Since K track has solid stainless rails, there is no issue there but the centre studs are not and they slowly dull and running my trains does not clean them properly.
My layout is large and complex with accessibility issues in my staging yards and other areas, so hand cleaning is not sustainable.

I see that LUX now sell a centre stud cleaner for this purpose (item 9136, MLR-1 stud cleaner):
https://www.lux-modellba...nt_content.php?idart=193

However it is not cheap at 200euro but it incorporates a motor and digital functions, the sandpaper rotates like a sander when activated.
I don't know if the motor is really necessary, though it will obviously polish more thoroughly.

The stummis approve of it though: https://stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?t=151392

Given it appears to have 1500 sandpaper, I am more inclined to save the money and make myself something like Ross.
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany
Offline franciscohg  
#40 Posted : 23 October 2018 04:48:09(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
Hi, recently I received a 3 piece set of Lux cleaning cars, they works wonderfully, but I think any other cleaning solution will definitely require the use of the vacuum cleaner car. It amazes me the big amount of debris that it collects.
Regards
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline costing  
#41 Posted : 23 October 2018 07:24:46(UTC)
costing

Switzerland   
Joined: 20/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 157
Location: Geneve, Geneva
I found that by passing a bar of graphite (soft pencil) over the center studs solved contact problems and seems to protect from further oxidation as well. You could easily modify your sanding wagons to mount the bar instead, I'm looking into making one for myself at least.

Cheers,

.costin
JMRI on RPi & DCC++ / C-track / Marklin, Roco, ESU, Bemo locos / Christmas car collector
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by costing
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