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Offline walters48  
#1 Posted : 08 February 2012 23:30:18(UTC)
walters48

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 199
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA

A couple of weeks ago I won a fine, like-new Marklin 3084 analog steam lok on eBay. As soon as I received it, I ran it alone and w/ a six tin plate 40XX passenger coach consist; no problem. The last two times I ran it w/ the same number of passenger cars, it started making a squealing sound in the corners of my M* R-2 C track. I want to separate the body from the chassis to see if I can solve this noise with a couple of well placed drops of oil. Unfortunately, although it came in a beautiful original box, there was no maintenance manual included. Is there a web site where I could download this booklet? Otherwise, because the lok is wired to the tender, can someone explain the proper separation process to me?
Thanks very much,
Chas
Offline Piggy  
#2 Posted : 08 February 2012 23:59:49(UTC)
Piggy

Australia   
Joined: 08/05/2009(UTC)
Posts: 590
Location: Sydney
Have a look here: http://www.maerklin.de/s...r.php?artikelnummer=3084

You remove the top of the loco by loosening the two big screws under the driving wheels.
Regards
Kenneth
CS1 update - K & C tracks - German Era 3B & 4, with some Swiss and Austrian visitors. - My Layout
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Offline Markus Schild  
#3 Posted : 09 February 2012 00:03:13(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi Chas,

UserPostedImage

This is the drawing from the Märklin-leaflet. The 3084 has two screws - one in the front and one in the rear as shown above.

Regards

Markus
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Markus Schild
Offline gn809  
#4 Posted : 17 February 2012 10:35:19(UTC)
gn809


Joined: 18/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Hannover,Germany
Hello Chas, the loco and the tender of the 3084 can not be separated without cutting off or releasing the wires. Sorry! Johannes
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Offline walters48  
#5 Posted : 19 March 2012 23:05:52(UTC)
walters48

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 199
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Originally Posted by: Markus Schild Go to Quoted Post
Hi Chas,

UserPostedImage

This is the drawing from the Märklin-leaflet. The 3084 has two screws - one in the front and one in the rear as shown above.

Regards

Markus


So I separate the body from the frame w/o any problem. Turns out it has a DCM ( which you guys already know, but I expected a LFCM) and the brushes are long and fine, but the commutator shafts look dry on both sides. That's easy enough to oil, along w/ the gear train and the driver axle bearings... and all the gears look shiney and beautifully aligned. Then I reassemble it and find that the rear most threaded structure to receive one of the bolts that holds the chassis to the shell is/was CROSS-THREADED. So I assemble it anyway, hook it up to 6 tin plate 40XX coaches and crank it up it half throttle and it starts out great on the straight, but slows down and makes a terrible gear-clashing sound on the large radius M track curves. After one lap I stopped it. What happened?? (help).
Thanks,
Chas
Offline Yumgui  
#6 Posted : 19 March 2012 23:31:05(UTC)
Yumgui

United States   
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,660
Location: Paris, France
W48,

If it isn't the chassis chafing against the gears or other moving parts, then it may be worn gear issues ... especially if some of these are originally plastic.

You will have to ask our Dr Eisenbahn here (juvye), he's gone through the motions on those issues many times ... ^^

Keep posting on progress plz,

Thanks,

Y

PS: Full exploded diagram and parts list below ... hope it helps ^^
Yumgui attached the following image(s):
3084_explo_Page_1.jpg
3084_explo_Page_2.jpg
If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out !
Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all
My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A
Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Yumgui
Offline RayF  
#7 Posted : 19 March 2012 23:52:24(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi Chas,

Have you tried running it without the body? See if it still makes the same noise when running without the top. It might be that something is fouling the gears when the chassis "bends" in the middle on curves.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by RayF
Offline walters48  
#8 Posted : 21 March 2012 02:57:49(UTC)
walters48

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 199
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hi Chas,

Have you tried running it without the body? See if it still makes the same noise when running without the top. It might be that something is fouling the gears when the chassis "bends" in the middle on curves.


OK! I removed the body and the noise went away completely. Then I carefully examined the bottom inside of the metal shell w/ 2.5X Optivisor, but was unable to find any evidence of rubbing or scraping. Also, every gear that I can see looks to be metal; if any gears are plastic/ nylon, they must be buried deep in the belly of the beast. This situation begs the question as to whether the eBay seller did something(damage) to the lok, then sold it to be rid of it.
Well the (eBay) deal is done and I'm going to have to try to fix it. Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks,
Chas
Offline RayF  
#9 Posted : 24 March 2012 13:53:44(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi Chas,

Try placing the body on without the screws and running like that, see if you can see any interference between the two on curves. If it's still OK try it with one screw in or the other. Somehow the body must either rub against one of the wheels or gears or it must affect the way the chassis flexes in some way.

Can you post pics of the loco, with and without the body? That way I can compare it with mine and see if there's any difference.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline walters48  
#10 Posted : 24 March 2012 23:30:24(UTC)
walters48

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 199
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hi Chas,

Try placing the body on without the screws and running like that, see if you can see any interference between the two on curves. If it's still OK try it with one screw in or the other. Somehow the body must either rub against one of the wheels or gears or it must affect the way the chassis flexes in some way.

Can you post pics of the loco, with and without the body? That way I can compare it with mine and see if there's any difference.


Hi Ray,
It ran fine with the body back on w/o either screw; then I replaced the rear screw and it continued to run well. So I guess we know who the offending party is... the front screw! I will soon replace it and get ready for the clashing of gears or whatever it is that makes that sound that no Marklin runner ever wants to hear.
Unfortunately, my computer skill set does not include posting pictures on these sites, but I feel that we are making good progress with your excellent text instructions-- for which I am most grateful.
Regards,
Chas
Offline walters48  
#11 Posted : 30 March 2012 23:41:56(UTC)
walters48

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 199
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Originally Posted by: walters48 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hi Chas,

Try placing the body on without the screws and running like that, see if you can see any interference between the two on curves. If it's still OK try it with one screw in or the other. Somehow the body must either rub against one of the wheels or gears or it must affect the way the chassis flexes in some way.

Can you post pics of the loco, with and without the body? That way I can compare it with mine and see if there's any difference.


Hi Ray,
It ran fine with the body back on w/o either screw; then I replaced the rear screw and it continued to run well. So I guess we know who the offending party is... the front screw! I will soon replace it and get ready for the clashing of gears or whatever it is that makes that sound that no Marklin runner ever wants to hear.
Unfortunately, my computer skill set does not include posting pictures on these sites, but I feel that we are making good progress with your excellent text instructions-- for which I am most grateful.
Regards,
Chas


Well I carefully replaced the front screw w/ the lok completely upside down in a foam cradle. This is the screw that I thought was cross threaded, but it went in as easy as going into butter and looked to remain 90o all the way in. I put it the track and hooked it to nine 40XX tinplate coaches and...
it ran perfectly for > 25 min at 70% throttle w/o one unpleasant sound. Then I ran it backward @ half throttle again w/o a hitch. Start-stop-start-stop.
No matter what I tried, I could not replicate the problem... I think it's cured!!
I would like to again thank Ray and all the other members who gave me good advice and diagrams, which got this lok running great again.
Best Regards,
Chas
Offline Johnvr  
#12 Posted : 31 March 2012 09:22:34(UTC)
Johnvr

South Africa   
Joined: 03/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,269
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
This story makes the reasons for having the forum so important.

Regards,BigGrin
John
Offline RayF  
#13 Posted : 31 March 2012 10:21:30(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,838
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Great news, Chas! ThumpUp

The 3084 is a great Marklin classic. Enjoy!
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline intruder  
#14 Posted : 31 March 2012 12:18:45(UTC)
intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
It sounds to me that someone installed one or two wrong screws sometime.

After tightening the screws, the articulated chassis should be able to move freely side to side.
The un-threaded and thicker part (Ø3,1mm) of the screws is a little bit longer (5mm) than the thickness of the chassis around the screw holes (approx. 4,2mm).
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
Offline osilva  
#15 Posted : 24 August 2018 12:49:00(UTC)
osilva


Joined: 30/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
Originally Posted by: Markus Schild Go to Quoted Post
Hi Chas,

UserPostedImage

This is the drawing from the Märklin-leaflet. The 3084 has two screws - one in the front and one in the rear as shown above.

Regards

Markus


Hello Chas,,
Can you please show again the leaflet for the 3084 as I cannot see it anymore. I would like to open up the tender of my 3084 as the loco is not working. Thanks, Oscar
Offline Markus Schild  
#16 Posted : 24 August 2018 19:28:10(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi Oscar,

The exploded view drawing is available at Märklin:

https://www.maerklin.de/...r.php?artikelnummer=3084

Regards

Markus
Offline JohnjeanB  
#17 Posted : 24 August 2018 19:39:18(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,083
Location: Paris, France
Hi Oscar

The tender has a plastic body which has small plastic locks on the side.
Simply insert a toothpick on each side of the tender body and the frame will unlatch
Cheers

Jean
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