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Offline Drongo  
#1 Posted : 29 November 2010 11:25:09(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,106
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Everyone,

I'm not sure if this topic has been covered before, but, can one use WD 40 instead of oil to lubricate the locos and wheels of the carriages?

Regards
Greg
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Website - www.simplesite.com/gregstrain
Offline RayF  
#2 Posted : 29 November 2010 11:53:34(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,768
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi Greg,

I say yes, others say no. I guess it depends on the particular circumstances.

If you are looking at a nicely working loco and just want to do the regular lubrication, use the recommended Marklin oil.

If you have a loco that's stuck solid, use some WD 40 to free it and then use Marklin oil afterwards to keep it lubricated.

In any case, whatever you use, use very little. When using WD 40 I spray it into an old Marklin oil bottle and then use it from there. Spraying direct from the can into your loco will get the stuff everywhere, which will ruin your traction tyres and mess up your brushes.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline hxmiesa  
#3 Posted : 29 November 2010 12:36:22(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,264
Location: Spain
I would say no.
Use it only as a cleaning-agent, and be sure to remove any residue.
As it is more of a dissolvent that an oil, it will attack paint and plastic more.
As an oil it has very little mechanical bearing-power. Its major component is similar to gasoline, and will just evaporate...

Edit; Just some grammatical erros I just saw...

Edited by user 01 December 2010 13:25:19(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline Ian555  
#4 Posted : 29 November 2010 12:48:01(UTC)
Ian555

Scotland   
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 20,010
Location: Scotland
Hi Greg,

Just had to do some work to a Br50.

The front bogie wheels were stuck solid, couldn't turn them by hand.

Used WD40 to clear them then a little oil to lubricate them, nice and free running.

Ian.


Offline Drongo  
#5 Posted : 29 November 2010 13:39:34(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,106
Location: Sydney, NSW
Thanks fellas for the advice.

I'll say with the oil - sparingly - and only use WD40 for those stubborn parts. I forgot about the attacking properties of WD40 on plastics and rubber - that alone is unough reason not to use it.

Once again - thanks to all.

Greg
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Website - www.simplesite.com/gregstrain
Offline Chris6382chris  
#6 Posted : 29 November 2010 15:51:31(UTC)
Chris6382chris

United States   
Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,160
Location: Middle of the US
I would agree, oil for lubicating and wd40 for tough areas.

I would like to ask a follow up question to the original question. What about lubricating wheels on the wagons when they rest in plastic like the newer cars. I have some wheels that don't move as well as they should. Would graphite be best?

Thanks,

Chris

Offline hxmiesa  
#7 Posted : 29 November 2010 16:01:31(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,264
Location: Spain
Chris6382chris wrote:
What about lubricating wheels on the wagons when they rest in plastic like the newer cars. I have some wheels that don't move as well as they should. Would graphite be best?

You could use teflon-grease.
But if you are talking about the needle-like points of the axles, you are better off not using anything at all! If the plastic presses too firmly against the axle so that it doesnt rotate, just force the plastic a little apart (deforming it) so that the pressure lessens.
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline perz  
#8 Posted : 30 November 2010 00:50:59(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
If wheels on cars with plastic bearings do not turn easily, it might be that the bearings are so worn that the wheel flanges get in contact with the underside of the car body. Oiling won't help for that. I have fixed it by filling out the worn bearing with epoxy glue. This has worked reasonably well on the two cars I have tested it on.
Offline Chris6382chris  
#9 Posted : 30 November 2010 03:58:36(UTC)
Chris6382chris

United States   
Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,160
Location: Middle of the US
Thanks for both of the suggestions.

Chris
Offline Dave Banks  
#10 Posted : 30 November 2010 12:08:18(UTC)
Dave Banks

Australia   
Joined: 08/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,034
Location: Gold Coast, Australia.
For those of you in Australia & New Zealand I suggest you try Inox. I have used it on my Marklin model trains especially on exposed metal like pantographs, metal buffers & hand rails. It does not dry out & disappear but it truly coats the exposed metal. I live on the Gold Coast & we have a fairly humid climate plus I am only 4km from the ocean. Using Inox I have never had a worry about rust. I have also coated the center rail of my C-tracks from the underside prior to laying them down & it shows no signs of rust whatsoever & that was 7 years ago. It also does not damage plastic & will not harm most surfaces. Here is a link I found on the product. ( http://www.ppc.au.com/access_inox1.htm ) For the benefit of the politically correct, I have no interest in the company financially or otherwise. But for all other applications of oil to the loco, I prefer to use the listed Marklin oil on driving wheels & gears etc.
D.A.Banks
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