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Offline Joseph Meiring  
#1 Posted : 17 December 2010 16:25:09(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,165
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Had a bad accident yesterday whilst adjusting the level/height of my control table, it suddenly tipped and down went the transformers, onto a tiled floor, a 2ft 6" drop! My older metal trafos were fine, but my "newer" blue plastic one (6631, c 1980) was seriously damaged - or so I presumed - the control couldn't turn at all, and it sounded as if something had come loose inside-much rattling....
So, off went the rivets, lifted the cover, and found the locating lugs of the fixing screws had come loose, and the LED had blown. With a bit of gentle persuasion, a new LED, and a general fixing/relocating of all wires/connections inside, all is OK again! What a relief!!ThumpUp
Are the newer, white/grey?, trafos suited for the older analog systems such as I have, or must I stick to the blue ones?
Thanks Marklin for such sturdy transformers!!
M track Joe
Offline Ranjit  
#2 Posted : 17 December 2010 16:46:24(UTC)
Ranjit


Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 3,023
Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
Sorry to hear about the accident, Joe. I am glad you were able to fix the problem.

Cheers,
Ranjit
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital
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Offline Ian555  
#3 Posted : 17 December 2010 16:51:25(UTC)
Ian555

Scotland   
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 20,288
Location: Scotland
Hi Joe,

You have been transformed. Smile

Just as well it wasn't a CS2. Sad

Ian.
Offline H0  
#4 Posted : 17 December 2010 18:07:00(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,432
Location: DE-NW
Joe Meiring wrote:
Are the newer, white/grey?, trafos suited for the older analog systems such as I have, or must I stick to the blue ones?

The grey ones with the red knobs (#6646, #6647) are made for analog operation. With them you can run current digital locos on an analog layout, too.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by H0
Offline ac jacko  
#5 Posted : 18 December 2010 02:29:05(UTC)
ac jacko


Joined: 09/04/2010(UTC)
Posts: 897
Location: Gawler South Australia
Interesting on the transformers as I have 7 old blue ones. Can you order the 6646/6647 from marklin/lokshop still with correct Aussie Power or have to look on Ebay?

The query is if as you mention they can run didital, so upgrade the annlogue loco's with decoders and these can run ok with a few analog locos as well ?
Offline RayF  
#6 Posted : 18 December 2010 11:30:47(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,870
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Analogue Marklin locos of any age can be run with any of Marklin's transformers, whether they are blue or white. The white transformers have better safety features and conform to modern standards, but a blue transformer in good condition is just as good for running the trains.

For newer digital locomotives from the last few years, only the newer white transformers should be used when running these locos in analogue mode. The reason is that some of the newer decoders can be damaged by the reversing pulse which exceeds the decoder's maximum voltage requirements. Some of the older transformers can produce a reversing pulse which is significantly higher than this limit.

If your digital locomotives are from the 1980s or 1990s they are unlikely to be damaged in this way and you can continue to use your old blue transformers.

Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline ac jacko  
#7 Posted : 19 December 2010 13:54:22(UTC)
ac jacko


Joined: 09/04/2010(UTC)
Posts: 897
Location: Gawler South Australia
Thansk Ray,my loco's are all Analog but i like a few of the newer marklin Models and I am seeing which was to go to get the old ones fitted with decorders and take the plunge to digital. I will get the track up and running and see what happens. Thanks again
Offline SvenM  
#8 Posted : 02 January 2025 03:09:54(UTC)
SvenM

Australia   
Joined: 22/12/2019(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: New South Wales, Sydney
Happy new year all!

I also have a 6631 that has suffered a fall

IMG_5285.jpeg

Unfortunately, the dial does not stop at zero anymore and the pilot light does not work. It now rattles...

I have tested it and it still works (a loco will run) however, the reverse function does not work properly.

I am assuming that a part has broken off the back of the dial. I was going to open it up and see if it could be fixed but, before I do, I thought I would check in with the experts.

When you put it back together, what do you use for the rivets/where would you get new ones from?

Many thanks for any help,
Sven
Offline FastEddie  
#9 Posted : 04 January 2025 02:19:37(UTC)
FastEddie

United States   
Joined: 09/07/2023(UTC)
Posts: 37
Location: Delaware, Long Neck
Because of the cost of digital, I intend to stay with analog, but I have purchased some newer digital locos so I shifted off the blue plastic transformers and over to the white. The blue are still good for powering lighting circuits etc. I just don't use them for track power anymore.
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by FastEddie
Offline Peter S  
#10 Posted : 04 January 2025 23:57:46(UTC)
Peter S

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2004(UTC)
Posts: 9
Location: Westfield, MA
Originally Posted by: SvenM Go to Quoted Post


When you put it back together, what do you use for the rivets/where would you get new ones from?

Many thanks for any help,
Sven


Sven,

When I repaired one of mine, I used a 4-40 screw and nut to hold things together. In metric a 3mm screw and nut should be pretty close. The screw had to be cut to the correct length. I used hardware that I had on hand, that's why there is a difference between the front and back. I only had a couple of thin nuts to that could be used on the underside of the case so I used them in the front and used the thick ones in the back with the screws sticking up.

trafo repair 01.jpgtrafo repair 02.jpgtrafo repair 03.jpgtrafo repair 04.jpg
Peter
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by Peter S
Offline SvenM  
#11 Posted : 05 January 2025 21:53:53(UTC)
SvenM

Australia   
Joined: 22/12/2019(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: New South Wales, Sydney
Originally Posted by: Peter S Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: SvenM Go to Quoted Post


When you put it back together, what do you use for the rivets/where would you get new ones from?

Many thanks for any help,
Sven


Sven,

When I repaired one of mine, I used a 4-40 screw and nut to hold things together. In metric a 3mm screw and nut should be pretty close. The screw had to be cut to the correct length. I used hardware that I had on hand, that's why there is a difference between the front and back. I only had a couple of thin nuts to that could be used on the underside of the case so I used them in the front and used the thick ones in the back with the screws sticking up.



Many thanks Peter!

What a simple idea!

Thanks heaps,
Sven



Offline cookee_nz  
#12 Posted : 08 January 2025 03:08:46(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,991
Location: Paremata, Wellington
I have done same, suitable size screws & nuts are perfect.

If you find that the head or nut are protruding more than sitting flush, you can get small soft adhesive rubber pads to attach underneath to give grip and clear the surface.

Steve
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by cookee_nz
Offline SvenM  
#13 Posted : 08 January 2025 22:36:11(UTC)
SvenM

Australia   
Joined: 22/12/2019(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: New South Wales, Sydney
Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Go to Quoted Post
I have done same, suitable size screws & nuts are perfect.

If you find that the head or nut are protruding more than sitting flush, you can get small soft adhesive rubber pads to attach underneath to give grip and clear the surface.

Steve


Many thanks Steve! That's definitely the way forward.

I drilled the rivets out and took the cover off to find that the little bit of plastic that holds the light fitting had broken off, I will glue that back together - I have an LED globe that I will use as a replacement.

Unfortunately, I can't work out what stops the dial going past 0; it should go past to enable you to change the direction of the loco but then return to 0 - there is no limiter (if that's what it is called?).

Any ideas would be most welcome please (I can post an image if that helps).

Many thanks,
Sven

Offline FastEddie  
#14 Posted : 10 January 2025 14:39:34(UTC)
FastEddie

United States   
Joined: 09/07/2023(UTC)
Posts: 37
Location: Delaware, Long Neck
Originally Posted by: ac jacko Go to Quoted Post
Interesting on the transformers as I have 7 old blue ones. Can you order the 6646/6647 from marklin/lokshop still with correct Aussie Power or have to look on Ebay?

The query is if as you mention they can run didital, so upgrade the annlogue loco's with decoders and these can run ok with a few analog locos as well ?


To be clear, upgrading analog locos with decoders and using the white analog transformers does NOT make digital features available to you. Your layout will still be analog; you will just be able to run digital locos on the layout without frying the digital boards when you reverse direction.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by FastEddie
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