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Offline Drongo  
#1 Posted : 24 May 2009 15:00:30(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,226
Location: Sydney, NSW
Hi Everyone, I just got my CS1 back from Marklin after 5 and a half months, however, I think it's still faulty - maybe you guys can help?
The reason I sent it back to Marklin, was that the red control knobs don't seem to be correct. When I turn the knobs, sometimes the loco's respond immediately and sometimes there is no response, especially when I turn the knobs quickly. Is this the normal behaviour of these control knobs? I can't seem to be able to use the function of "brakes squelling" as the control knob will not operate fast enough for the loco to slow down quick enough.
Another problem I have, is that I can't install all my locos on the track. I've installed 4 mfx loco's with no problems, however, I have 2 fx loco's and I'm having problems with them. When I place them on the track, with the CS1 in "stop", and then press "go" the new loco starts up and runs out of control. Why? Can anyone please help ?
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#2 Posted : 24 May 2009 15:27:24(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,666
Location: New Zealand
Greg, that is normal behaviour. If you turn the knobs too quickly the loco will not have much speed set on it. To get the brakes squealing, you need to make sure you haven't turned it off on one of the loco's functions (function on = brakes off.....I know, don't ask, we all think that is daft!). To activate it, don't use the knob, rather just tap twice on the speed curve on the touch screen. The loco should then come to a smooth stop with the sounds of brakes.

The issue with locos taking off at speed is a known one, just search the Digital threads here for 'Alzheimer'. This can be a problem if your loco is sitting on a dead section, such as a signal area when the power is restored. It is to do with decoders remembering their previous speed setting, and acting on it.

When I power my layout off, I usually set all signals to green, and stop locos with the control knob. That way, if they remember their previous speed setting (0) they should not disappear into the distance when power is restored.
Offline Drongo  
#3 Posted : 24 May 2009 15:32:15(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,226
Location: Sydney, NSW
Thanks David, I'll try that. However, it brings me back to my original question from another thread - where does it say that in the manual? How did you learn to use the CS?
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#4 Posted : 24 May 2009 15:34:42(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,666
Location: New Zealand
Don't know if it is in the manual. I learnt that from reading threads on this forum, it was bugging me no end having to wind up the knob 20 times just to get half speed on a loco, when someone coincidentally mentioned it on the forum.
Offline Drongo  
#5 Posted : 24 May 2009 16:15:38(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,226
Location: Sydney, NSW
I guess it comes with experience.
And that reminds me of another thread . . . "Marklin for Dummies". Why can't Marklin write their manuals in plain English? It's not just Marklin, it's nearly all companies in the world, and then some 3rd party writes a book of instructions for the "dummy". The way I see the manual should be written, would go something like this - If you have a mfx loco, then press the "stop" button on the CS, then place the loco on the tracks and then press the green "go" button. Wait for approximately 3 minutes and then the loco should be registered in the CS. Hey David, do you want to write the book? I'll proof read it for you. There might be a quid in it?? biggrin
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#6 Posted : 25 May 2009 00:56:09(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,666
Location: New Zealand
Editing our club magazine keeps me at the computer long enough as it is (not that I get that right every time!).
Offline Drongo  
#7 Posted : 25 May 2009 09:09:45(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,226
Location: Sydney, NSW
Thanks again David. I tried touching the speed section of the screen (only once) and the speed drops to zero and the train slows to a stop with squealing. Fantastic. Now more questions - I hope I'm not being a nuisance, I feel inadequate and I'm interested in knowing how to operate the CS.
4 of my locos are mfx, however, only one will allow me into the "advanced" section. The other 3 stated that my mfx decoder doesn't support this section. I thought all mfx decoders had an advanced setting section.
Regarding Alzheimers, I read the section, however, is doesn't explain the cure. Can you help with this?
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
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Offline RuiS10  
#8 Posted : 09 January 2024 17:43:58(UTC)
RuiS10

Portugal   
Joined: 27/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Figueira da Foz
Hello everyone!

I'm sorry to bring this thread up after so long, but I'm having a similar issue with my CS1's knobs.

I got mine used, and I guess it was bought at most 1 or 2 years after it came out, so I believe it was very used, but with all the care someone could put on his beloved train sets. What happens is that most of the times I'd rotate the knobs, and it would not react as expected. I found out that if I pulled the knob up gently while rotating, it would respond quite better. Not the worst in the world, but specially when controlling two trains at once, it was not pleasant. So i gained courage, and ended up opening the Control Station, getting to the knobs and pry opening them as well, and found out they were quite dirty. I cleaned, and it got much better, but they are still loosing steps quite often.

Photo after cleaning:
IMG_20240109_163943.jpg

I can't seem to find the Marklin's web page with spare parts for it, and I was thinking if I should just take it to an electronics store to get their help (I don't have any official store nearby, and I'm not much up to spend a lot on repairs), or maybe trying to get an equal or similar rotary knob and exchange them myself.

Any thoughts, tips, opinions on what should I do? I do accept miracles as well BigGrin
Thank you in advance!
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Offline 1borna  
#9 Posted : 13 January 2024 20:33:03(UTC)
1borna

Croatia   
Joined: 21/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,357
Location: Hrvatska
I doubt any CS part can be bought as a spare? I would recommend using a contact spray, it is enough to spray all the contacts and then wipe them with a clean cloth.

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Offline RuiS10  
#10 Posted : 14 January 2024 14:10:30(UTC)
RuiS10

Portugal   
Joined: 27/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Figueira da Foz
Originally Posted by: 1borna Go to Quoted Post
I doubt any CS part can be bought as a spare? I would recommend using a contact spray, it is enough to spray all the contacts and then wipe them with a clean cloth.



Well, I haven't done that to the entire electronics, as they looked and even smelled brand new! But I did tried that before opening the rotary encoders/knobs, without any noticeable difference... That's why I decided to open them. It was a little scary, I must admit!! Scared
The before cleaning photo isn't very good, but there's quite a difference on those blacked/worn out areas before and after cleaning.
Here's the before-cleaning photo:
IMG_20240114_120837.jpg

I guess my only option is to find a very similar pair of rotary encoders and give it a try... If it doesn't work, I guess I can solder the old ones back in place Crying

Maybe next week I'll order a few, and after a deep breath, replace those things...
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Offline RuiS10  
#11 Posted : 16 January 2024 21:16:50(UTC)
RuiS10

Portugal   
Joined: 27/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Figueira da Foz
Well, I feel quite ashamed/frustrated, but I brought the topic back up, so I think I should at least report how it's going Blushing

After 2 hours struggling to desolder the encoder, I got the new one in place and closed the console to test it. I got scared that I was turning the knob to accelerate and nothing happened and then, rotating anti-clockwise... It started accelerating! Has a much better feel when rotating, better clicking and works with every impulse but it is reversed Crying
I have only exchanged 1, because the other one has much more "stuff" around the pins and also wanted to make sure it would work.

I guess I'll just take the CS1 to the electronics shop and get them to do the job professionaly. Yeah I know that's what I should have done in first place, but I tend to want to try to save some money when I can.

At least I got try the squealing noise when touching the speed section, and it's really cool BigGrin thank you for that, Drongo !
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Offline kiwiAlan  
#12 Posted : 17 January 2024 00:43:46(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,110
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: RuiS10 Go to Quoted Post
Well, I feel quite ashamed/frustrated, but I brought the topic back up, so I think I should at least report how it's going Blushing

After 2 hours struggling to desolder the encoder, I got the new one in place and closed the console to test it. I got scared that I was turning the knob to accelerate and nothing happened and then, rotating anti-clockwise... It started accelerating! Has a much better feel when rotating, better clicking and works with every impulse but it is reversed Crying
I have only exchanged 1, because the other one has much more "stuff" around the pins and also wanted to make sure it would work.

I guess I'll just take the CS1 to the electronics shop and get them to do the job professionaly. Yeah I know that's what I should have done in first place, but I tend to want to try to save some money when I can.

At least I got try the squealing noise when touching the speed section, and it's really cool BigGrin thank you for that, Drongo !


The repair for that will be to swap the wiring of two pins of the encoder. Just because it is a drop in replacement physically doesn't make it identical electrically unfortunately. So the solution is to work out which pins the two phase signals come out, lift those out of the circuit board, and use some fine wire to connect them to the others PCB pad. As you have already discovered the problem it is easier to work around on the second one.

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Offline RuiS10  
#13 Posted : 18 January 2024 00:19:15(UTC)
RuiS10

Portugal   
Joined: 27/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Figueira da Foz
The CS1's encoders had no labeling at all, so I went for the -outer- similarities I could find.
Thank you for your suggestion kiwiAlan! That was my first thought but I wasn't sure it could be "that simple". Just in case I went to the electronics shop, and it is supposed to be as simple as that, swapping the outer pins.

Also, I got a desoldering pump to ease the job, as the copper mesh I was using was barely taking any solder from the pins!

I'll post some photos in a few days when it's all fixed Cool
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Offline Bigdaddynz  
#14 Posted : 18 January 2024 19:49:46(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,666
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: 1borna Go to Quoted Post
I doubt any CS part can be bought as a spare? ​


Keep in mind that the CS1 was built by ESU for Marklin, so best to approach ESU for spare parts if they still have them!

Where did you find your replacement encoders? Might help someone else with the same issue who is looking for help.
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Offline RuiS10  
#15 Posted : 18 January 2024 22:48:15(UTC)
RuiS10

Portugal   
Joined: 27/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Figueira da Foz
Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Go to Quoted Post

Where did you find your replacement encoders? Might help someone else with the same issue who is looking for help.


It was at a local "old school" electronics shop. I want to post that information, with photos and some details, and possibly a link for the encoders. I didn'd had time to finish the job yet, but I'm hoping I'll make it during the weekend!

About reaching ESU, it didn't even came to my mind, but I would probably not anyway, as it hurts me that they still charge almost or around 400€ (can't find it now) for their CS1 - Reloaded firmware ThumbDown
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Offline Bigdaddynz  
#16 Posted : 19 January 2024 00:47:55(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,666
Location: New Zealand
400€ for the CS1 Reloaded software??

All it ever was was a software upgrade and a beefier 90w power supply, it certainly never cost 400€!

Not that it is still available.
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Offline RuiS10  
#17 Posted : 19 January 2024 12:45:28(UTC)
RuiS10

Portugal   
Joined: 27/11/2022(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Figueira da Foz
Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Go to Quoted Post
400€ for the CS1 Reloaded software??

All it ever was was a software upgrade and a beefier 90w power supply, it certainly never cost 400€!

Not that it is still available.


That's what I could find about an year ago... But I'm sure you must know better than I do.
I can't find the same link I found then, but at ESU's FAQ it says "The non-binding recommended selling price in Germany is € 174,99.". It's 2009 information though...

Anyway, I'm happy with my CS1's functions, and what I can't do with it as is, I can with RocRail so, all good Cool. Although I found that there's an firmware 3.0 update, but when I upgraded mine it was to the 2.0.4 firmware.
For now, I just want those encoders working well, then I'll see what else I can find.
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