I would say yes and…yes! 😁

On such a big layout, I would plan wiring as follows:

(1) How many trains will move at the same time once the layout is finished? Depending on which engines you have (and lighting in coaches) plan for logical track sections you could have, one booster (or central station) per track section. 3-4 moving trains per section could be appropriate. E.g. ”inner oval” = booster 1, ”outer oval” = booster 2. One red bus cable (> 1.5 mm2) per booster. Remember to do the physical separation of power connection between the track sections. You don’t have to separate ground connection between the track sections.

(2) Plan for having a separate booster for managing solenoid decoders (points, signals etc.), and a separate red bus cable for this.

(3) Plan for one common (brown) ground bus cable for the booster buses in (1) and (2).

(4) Plan for two separate bus cables (yellow and brown) and a separate transformer for powering decoders.

(5) Plan for two separate bus cables (yellow and brown) and a separate transformer for feeding lights (point lanterns and building lights).

Add terminal blocks for each bus cable, with appropriate number of outputs on each location. Add a switch for each red and yellow bus cables near the power source (booster or transformer). This will help you during troubleshooting. Also, you will spend looong hours testing and adjusting the tracks. Then it is nice to turn off certain parts of the layout, even if you have point LED’s.

NOTE 1: In the beginning, you can connect all bus cables in (1), (2) and (3) into a single central station. Additional boosters can easily be added, once you need them. Also, if you go for 100 VA power sources, they could manage more sections than a 60 VA source.

NOTE 2: If you don’t want all point lanterns, building and street lights turned on and off at the same time, you may need to extend your strategy re. (5). Additional bus cables? A special building light module?

Have fun!

Edited by user 24 September 2023 23:39:43(UTC)  | Reason: Typo

Well, it’s still good practice and useful for troubleshooting, e.g. to figure out the source of a short circuit.

Thanks to everyone who replied with some great info. Here in the states finding info on Marklin is almost totally restricted to the internet. There are very few stores in the US that handle Marklin. Luckily for a novice like myself there are some real experts on this forum who are willing to share their knowledge. I am taking Jean's advice and just wiring my switch lanterns to the rails. Less wiring. Also have decided to forego the switch decoders and use M-83's. I've already had a switch decoder go haywire on me in a short time. Don't want to have to rip track up to get to the decoder. Again thanks for the replies to my question.

Luna