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Online river6109  
#1 Posted : 10 March 2021 11:37:14(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,633
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Over the years I've tried different couplings and the design has also changed in these years, my application is most probably slightly different from the average user as I have trains some with extreme weight and this means I need reliable couplings.
the couplings I've used (not including 4 pin couplings or my own created 8 pin couplings) have been from Fleischmann, Märklin & Roco.,
the result was the Fleishcmann couplings and Roco couplings uncoupled in curves., M♪2rklin couplings just uncoupled for no particular reason, the latest Roco coupling however is the most reliable one I've found and have no or I'm in the process of changing all couplings to this type, the difference is when 2 carriages are coupled together both couplings engage, for instance if one fails the other one is still hanging onto it.

Roco-40395.jpg

this one has a height adjustment option

Roco 40396.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by river6109
Offline JohnjeanB  
#2 Posted : 10 March 2021 17:55:01(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,083
Location: Paris, France
Hi
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
M♪2rklin couplings just uncoupled for no particular reason,


I have used mostly Märklin short couplings. They are not perfect but I NEVER had uncouplings by accident with other short couplings of the same brand.
Their drawback are:
* a bit too high so they may bump into some bumpers (non-Märklin cars)
* the metal loop needs sharpening to couple every time (otherwise, the 2 loops may force each other up and get past the small tongue for predecoupling).
* they don't work with Relex couplings

Here is an automatic decoupling with Märklin modified couplings


Here is an automatic an coupling with Märklin modified couplings


I have tried the Roco universal coupling. It is very good, very discreet, compatible with the Märklin short coupling, more compact that the Märklin one (no interference with bumpers) BUT VERY FRAGILE. So IMO it is a suitable option but be prepared to exchange them as soon as they have been pulled on.

Another choice is the Fleischmann Profi: very soft, very good but not compatible with any other and a bit complicated .
Likewise with the Roco Harpoon coupler (very good but not discreete

You may have a look at these Videos on coupling comparison on the Stummi forum
https://www.stummiforum.de/viewt...hp?t=159993&start=25

Cheers
Jean
Offline H0  
#3 Posted : 10 March 2021 18:01:37(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Go to Quoted Post
They are not perfect but I NEVER had uncouplings by accident with other short couplings of the same brand.
I often had that. If it can't be fixed with a little bending or degrating, I usually switch to Roco Universal couplers.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline mike c  
#4 Posted : 10 March 2021 18:04:40(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,880
Location: Montreal, QC
I have added the new Piko couplers to my test list. My Goldenpass BLS Set came equipped with the current conducting version. The same with some SBB NPZ coaches that were equipped with lighting by the dealer. So far, so good.

Here is a list of close coupling options:

Maerklin 7203 or current conducting versions*
Roco Close Coupler
Roco Universal Coupler (Similar to 7203 in many ways)*
Fleischmann Profi-Coupler (my choice for push-pull operation)
Piko Close Coupler
There are also versions from other brands, but I have not tested many of them.
*compatible with regular hook coupler or other couplers of similar type identified by *

Over the past few years, I have seen the following issues:

1) Coupler head will not fully insert into the NEM socket
- Some NEM sockets seem to be a little longer than some NEM feet, meaning that the coupling does not stick in the shaft and can release during use.

2) Coupler head feet too wide. Coupler cannot be inserted into the NEM socket without manipulation as the feet are spread too wide. A few times, the plastic of the feet has given out as the feet were squeezed together.

3) Coupler head feet too narrow. Coupler will not clip into the socket. This can usually be corrected by spreading the feet. If the plastic is too hard, it might resist the effort
- I have noted that in some cases, the plastic will retract and the coupler may slip out during operation

4) I have had too many instances of Maerklin 7203 couplers having issues where the metal and plastic have separated, either because one of the plastic pins breaks or because the metal gets bent and no longer sits properly on the plastic part of the coupler.

5) I have had one instance where the Roco Universal coupler has come apart.

6) Roco Close Coupler and Fleischmann Profi can have issues of separation if the train reaches a point where the start of an incline or a decline is too sharp.

7) Coupling shaft too long or not long enough. Some brands do not follow exact NEM norms and their models have coupling shafts that either extend too far or do not extend far enough. (Heris, Liliput, LS Models, ACME, etc)
- If the shaft is too long, there will be a space between coaches
- If the shaft is too short, the two coaches cannot couple because the two couplers cannot fully engage. In such cases, the Roco Universal Coupler has 1mm extra length between the feet and the coupler, which can solve the issue.

8) Some manufacturers make their coupling shaft with two positions, allowing the customer to decide if they want more or less space between coaches, which can help in cases where you need a little more space.

9) Deriving from #7, some manufacturers either use soft plastic or have issues with moulding, which results in the coupling shaft hanging low rather than resting firmly against the underside of the chassis, which can make coupling an issue. Usually, once coaches are coupled, the issue is not serious, but two such coaches coupled can result in a situation where the couplings contact the cross ties or the AC 3rd rail studs.

That said, I agree with John's assessment of the reliability of the Roco Universal Couplers, but it may not be the solution for each and every coach.

I do like the convenience of being able to remove a coach simply by lifting. The Maerklin couplers can usually be undone by lifting and twisting.
The Roco Universal Coupler requires separation from below (using the tool, a toothpick or popsicle stick/tongue depressor or similar).

I still have to test the Rivarossi (Hornby), Liliput designs and some of the magnetic designs, but that will be for another day.

Regards

Mike C
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mike c
Offline DaleSchultz  
#5 Posted : 10 March 2021 18:51:48(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
I have only used Märklin couplers and only Märklin rolling stock and have never had any real issues at all.

If one does not uncouple rakes of coaches or whole trains often, I think permanent couplers are the way to go.

The ones I designed have a 16mm length between the NEM pockets. My son sells these at:
https://scalethings.square.site/shop/couplers/6


FixedCouplerV36.png

They have an additional loop to hold wires that you may want to run along the train for lighting.

If someone would like longer or shorter ones they can contact me (or my son via his site) and we can create them at any length.

Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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