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Thewolf		#1 Posted : 10 June 2019 01:27:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Hi guys Does any of them have these items 42155, 42156, 42157 and 42179 marklin? If so, do you have any derailment problems? In my case, they go off the rails. The wheels come out of the rails (at the exit of some curves a straight line 24172 before the next curve). I eliminated the R1s, I eliminated the 24671, 24672. I have the impression that the bogies are not flexible enough, so are the couplers. When I move them with my hand, I feel from time to time like a kind of resistance and also they touch the edges at the bottom of the frame. The pick-up shoe on the rear bogie of the 45179 is causing me problems on switches In short, the Swiss equipment ( passengers cars) and me, whether Roco or Marklin, it's not the joy... fortunately the locos run well without problems What I don't understand is that the Italjet Roco train (79248-64190) runs perfectly without problems. The coupling system is different, however Thewolf
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TEEWolf		#2 Posted : 10 June 2019 02:59:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC) Posts: 2,465		Originally Posted by: Thewolf Hi guys Does any of them have these items 42155, 42156, 42157 and 42179 marklin? If so, do you have any derailment problems? In my case, they go off the rails. The wheels come out of the rails (at the exit of some curves a straight line 24172 before the next curve). I eliminated the R1s, I eliminated the 24671, 24672. I have the impression that the bogies are not flexible enough, so are the couplers. When I move them with my hand, I feel from time to time like a kind of resistance and also they touch the edges at the bottom of the frame. The pick-up shoe on the rear bogie of the 45179 is causing me problems on switches In short, the Swiss equipment ( passengers cars) and me, whether Roco or Marklin, it's not the joy... fortunately the locos run well without problems What I don't understand is that the Italjet Roco train (79248-64190) runs perfectly without problems. The coupling system is different, however Thewolf I had a similar problem with my "Selbstentladewagen" 46265 Märklin at a MIST on our MIST layout. First I thought it is a track problem, but a friend from the MIST said it is a problem of uptighted axels in the bogie. He removed the axels from the derailing wagon. Then he clamped them into the bogies again, turning the axle by 180° before. Then the wagon runs perfectly again with no derailing. Hope it helps you too.
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Thewolf		#3 Posted : 10 June 2019 14:34:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: TEEWolf Originally Posted by: Thewolf Hi guys Does any of them have these items 42155, 42156, 42157 and 42179 marklin? If so, do you have any derailment problems? In my case, they go off the rails. The wheels come out of the rails (at the exit of some curves a straight line 24172 before the next curve). I eliminated the R1s, I eliminated the 24671, 24672. I have the impression that the bogies are not flexible enough, so are the couplers. When I move them with my hand, I feel from time to time like a kind of resistance and also they touch the edges at the bottom of the frame. The pick-up shoe on the rear bogie of the 45179 is causing me problems on switches In short, the Swiss equipment ( passengers cars) and me, whether Roco or Marklin, it's not the joy... fortunately the locos run well without problems What I don't understand is that the Italjet Roco train (79248-64190) runs perfectly without problems. The coupling system is different, however Thewolf I had a similar problem with my "Selbstentladewagen" 46265 Märklin at a MIST on our MIST layout. First I thought it is a track problem, but a friend from the MIST said it is a problem of uptighted axels in the bogie. He removed the axels from the derailing wagon. Then he clamped them into the bogies again, turning the axle by 180° before. Then the wagon runs perfectly again with no derailing. Hope it helps you too. Thank you Wolfgang The HO equipment being very delicate, I have never dismantled anything, because I know myself: at some point, I break something. That's why some things are done by my wife (e.g. changing the bands on the wheels). On the more delicate side, I send the material to Mike. The equipment is too expensive to risk breaking it Thewolf
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mike c		#4 Posted : 10 June 2019 19:09:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,227 Location: Montreal, QC		One thought. The buffers on the coaches can be pushed in for operation on tighter radii. If they are in the extended position, it is possible that they may be rubbing against each other and causing the coaches to tilt and derail in curves or S-curves (switches). The other suggestion that I can make is to try replacing the Maerklin 7203 coupler with either Roco's universal coupler which has a slightly longer shaft (yielding an extra mm space between coaches) or equip every second coach with regular loop couplers, which will expand the spacing by 2 mm per coach. Regards Mike C


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midwestbls		#5 Posted : 10 June 2019 19:43:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 76		Originally Posted by: mike c One thought. The buffers on the coaches can be pushed in for operation on tighter radii. If they are in the extended position, it is possible that they may be rubbing against each other and causing the coaches to tilt and derail in curves or S-curves (switches). The other suggestion that I can make is to try replacing the Maerklin 7203 coupler with either Roco's universal coupler which has a slightly longer shaft (yielding an extra mm space between coaches) or equip every second coach with regular loop couplers, which will expand the spacing by 2 mm per coach. Regards Mike C Thanks for the heads-up on the adjustable buffers!!! It seems a number of the new-production, new-ERA cars have these - especially Swiss models.
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Thewolf		#6 Posted : 10 June 2019 22:07:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: mike c One thought. The buffers on the coaches can be pushed in for operation on tighter radii. If they are in the extended position, it is possible that they may be rubbing against each other and causing the coaches to tilt and derail in curves or S-curves (switches). The other suggestion that I can make is to try replacing the Maerklin 7203 coupler with either Roco's universal coupler which has a slightly longer shaft (yielding an extra mm space between coaches) or equip every second coach with regular loop couplers, which will expand the spacing by 2 mm per coach. Regards Mike C I hadn't thought about the buffers at all. Your other idea? That's what I think we should do. Putting couplers longer but...but...but...as I explained to Wolfgang I'm not agile enough with my hands to do this kind of thing. And that reminds me of the cause of the problems I have with ROCO passenger cars. I thought their 30 cm length was not compatible with my layout. But when I think about your comment, I think that the source of the problem with these ROCO passenger cars probably comes from the couplers, especially since I had asked for marklin couplers to be installed, since these cars were intended for a Marklin loco. A big mistake from me. Getting back to the marklin passenger cars, I'm going to send them back to Mike. There must be longer couplers at Marklin's, right? For the ROCOs, I'll send an email to Walter. The big problem with them: they answer e-mails very late or not at all. It seems they hate this means of communication. They prefer the phone... I hate the phone. As the proverb goes, the words fly away and the writings remain. Easier and faster, I send them the items with an explanation word and I keep the proof of sending the package Thewolf
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mike c		#7 Posted : 10 June 2019 22:42:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,227 Location: Montreal, QC		As far as the Roco coaches, you can replace the Roco close coupler (supplied) with either a regular Maerklin hook coupling or with Roco's Universal Close coupler. The other thing with the most recent models was that Roco prototypically equipped the models with buffers of the type used for push-pull operations. Those buffers are much more likely to snag in tighter radii than the original ones. If you can change the couplers, it might solve the issue. As far as the Marklin coaches, all you have to do is to hold the model while pushing straight down on the buffers until they pop in deeper against the model. The process is explained in the manual that comes with the models. Regards Mike C


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Thewolf		#8 Posted : 10 June 2019 23:01:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: mike c As far as the Roco coaches, you can replace the Roco close coupler (supplied) with either a regular Maerklin hook coupling or with Roco's Universal Close coupler. The other thing with the most recent models was that Roco prototypically equipped the models with buffers of the type used for push-pull operations. Those buffers are much more likely to snag in tighter radii than the original ones. If you can change the couplers, it might solve the issue. As far as the Marklin coaches, all you have to do is to hold the model while pushing straight down on the buffers until they pop in deeper against the model. The process is explained in the manual that comes with the models. Regards Mike C Thank you Mike But...all the packages went ....one to British Columbia and the other to Ontario Thewolf
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mike c		#9 Posted : 11 June 2019 03:30:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,227 Location: Montreal, QC		I hope that it all works out for you. Did you return them for refund or are they supposed to modify/fix them and send them back to you? Regards Mike C


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Thewolf		#10 Posted : 11 June 2019 14:59:17(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: mike c I hope that it all works out for you. Did you return them for refund or are they supposed to modify/fix them and send them back to you? Regards Mike C Mike, To modify/fix them and send them back to me. Why do you write '' I hope that it all works out for you '' ? Are they just sellers? They don't do any after-sales service?. Because I wonder about them and not bad even. I'm probably too used to Mike. Mike answers my emails during the day. ERH seems to me more reluctant to do the job. And now I have another problem with other Roco items that also come from ERH; the 61490 set and the 79248 loco Regards Thewolf
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mike c		#11 Posted : 11 June 2019 17:17:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,227 Location: Montreal, QC		I wrote it because I want you to be happy with whatever models you buy. I have not had any problems with ERH. There have been a few issues with damaged items which were affected by dealer/manufacturer/distributor issues, but Walter and his staff have been very nice to me. I usually talk to Jen if Walter is not around, but Walter is the tech expert. As far as WET (Westend Trains), I have not dealt with them since Mike took over from Klaus. At the time, WET was a side operation to Klaus Marine, which was the primary business. I would visit them almost every time I was in Toronto on business, along with John's Photo & Hobby. As far as the 64190 (correct number) and the 79248 (Railjet 1216), what problem are you experiencing? If it is a coupling issue, like you posted earlier, my recommendation would be to take two pieces of wood, approximately 1.5 m by 6 cm. Attach the two pieces to make a L shaped form. I used glue and screws to fix the two pieces together. Set the assembled part down on a workbench. So that the upright section forms a back panel. Affix a foam sheet or other insulation to the back panel. On the base, you can now install your choice of track sections, so that the track extends a cm or two from the left (or right) end of the cradle. Determine the position where you want to nail the track in place in a manner to ensure that when the section is tilted flat, that the train remains on the track while resting against the insulated panel. Secure the tracks in that position. On the version I experimented with, there was a little room between the back panel and the train. When the model was tipped on the side, the model would sit with the wheels closest to the real wall on the rails, which would allow enough space when upright that the model could be driven on to the layout without rubbing against the side. Once completed, you can use this cradle to attach the couplings of models like the Railjet, Roco's ICN, Maerklin's Gottardo or any other model that requires the consist to be coupled prior to being placed on the track. Once you have coupled the train, you can then return the cradle to the upright position, connect the track to your layout and easily run the train onto the layout. I experimented using the C to M adapters for the connection between cradle and layout, which allowed for easy connection/separation, unlike C track which has to be bent up. Some times, I think it would be easier to have a four to eight pole connection between coaches that would be separate from the actual coupler. They could design a socket either in the gangway door piece or in the footboard of the gangway itself. You would then insert the cable between the coaches and then connect using a normal coupler. That way, the models could be connected while on the layout and assembled car by car rather than as a unit. Regards Mike C


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Thewolf		#12 Posted : 11 June 2019 18:13:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: mike c I wrote it because I want you to be happy with whatever models you buy. I have not had any problems with ERH. There have been a few issues with damaged items which were affected by dealer/manufacturer/distributor issues, but Walter and his staff have been very nice to me. I usually talk to Jen if Walter is not around, but Walter is the tech expert. As far as WET (Westend Trains), I have not dealt with them since Mike took over from Klaus. At the time, WET was a side operation to Klaus Marine, which was the primary business. I would visit them almost every time I was in Toronto on business, along with John's Photo & Hobby. As far as the 64190 (correct number) and the 79248 (Railjet 1216), what problem are you experiencing? If it is a coupling issue, like you posted earlier, my recommendation would be to take two pieces of wood, approximately 1.5 m by 6 cm. Attach the two pieces to make a L shaped form. I used glue and screws to fix the two pieces together. Set the assembled part down on a workbench. So that the upright section forms a back panel. Affix a foam sheet or other insulation to the back panel. On the base, you can now install your choice of track sections, so that the track extends a cm or two from the left (or right) end of the cradle. Determine the position where you want to nail the track in place in a manner to ensure that when the section is tilted flat, that the train remains on the track while resting against the insulated panel. Secure the tracks in that position. On the version I experimented with, there was a little room between the back panel and the train. When the model was tipped on the side, the model would sit with the wheels closest to the real wall on the rails, which would allow enough space when upright that the model could be driven on to the layout without rubbing against the side. Once completed, you can use this cradle to attach the couplings of models like the Railjet, Roco's ICN, Maerklin's Gottardo or any other model that requires the consist to be coupled prior to being placed on the track. Once you have coupled the train, you can then return the cradle to the upright position, connect the track to your layout and easily run the train onto the layout. I experimented using the C to M adapters for the connection between cradle and layout, which allowed for easy connection/separation, unlike C track which has to be bent up. Some times, I think it would be easier to have a four to eight pole connection between coaches that would be separate from the actual coupler. They could design a socket either in the gangway door piece or in the footboard of the gangway itself. You would then insert the cable between the coaches and then connect using a normal coupler. That way, the models could be connected while on the layout and assembled car by car rather than as a unit. Regards Mike C Mike, thank you for your patience. Don't worry: the little problems I'm having don't make me unhappy. It's just a setback and keeps my side '' chialeux'' like any good Belgian who respects himself. Sorry, I reversed the numbers. This is the set 64190. About this set 64190 and 79248, it's a beautiful train. It works very well. I don't have any rolling problems. I have a lot of trouble configuring locos other than Marklin on the cs2. I have a Brawa steamer (under repair for 9 months at ERH), a Roco diesel, a Roco electric (79248). And of course the set 64143, 64190 and 64973. That's all. I was wondering if I had done the configuration job on the cs2 properly . I read the instructions again and if I understood everything correctly, since the cab car has a different address than the loco, the cs2 is correct and the presentation on the screen is normal. And if I understood correctly, for the car lights, you have to work (according to the instructions) in Motorola mode, so with 2 functions, one from the cab and the other from the locomotive. I haven't checked it yet. For the moment, only the cabin car is illuminated, the other 3 cars are not. If it doesn't work when I do the test, the problem would come from the electrical connectivity of the couplers or something else. I have to finish the functions F1, F2,....etc of the 2 folders on the cs2. I prefer by far the recording on the cs2 with MFX decoders: it's incredibly simple. It's the cross and the banner with decoders from other brands : it's a long time to do. I like your idea of an assistant to get the Italjet train on track. I'm going to build a support platform with stirofoam next week. Regards Thewolf
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dominator		#13 Posted : 12 June 2019 03:12:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,201 Location: Kerikeri		Hi Serge, I bought a Roco Tegernsee coach to go with all my Marklin ones. I had the same problem. In the end I had to remove the buffers. Works well and you cant tell the buffers have gone. Dereck
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Thewolf		#14 Posted : 12 June 2019 12:43:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: dominator Hi Serge, I bought a Roco Tegernsee coach to go with all my Marklin ones. I had the same problem. In the end I had to remove the buffers. Works well and you cant tell the buffers have gone. Dereck Hi Dereck Thank you Remove the buffers ? Why not? If necessary. But everything's gone to the dealers... we'll wait for their solution. Serge
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dominator		#15 Posted : 12 June 2019 13:03:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,201 Location: Kerikeri		Hi Serge. Next time you have something happen like this, you need to get down close to watch what happens, even if you have to wear two pairs of glasses to see clearly. Keep looking until you find the problem. I have solved quite a few problems by doing this. The Dc wheel problem was cured initially by adjusting the guide rails on points. My BR41 was solved by recalibrating the front driving wheels., Second DC wheel set cure was by increasing the rolling width of some wheels to stop them falling into the middle of the track after altering the wheels to the closer Marklin gauge. I had to look closely to solve those problems by repeated trials. All these problems were not so easy to find as the derailments never occurred consistently. Dereck
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Thewolf		#16 Posted : 12 June 2019 15:21:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: dominator Hi Serge. Next time you have something happen like this, you need to get down close to watch what happens, even if you have to wear two pairs of glasses to see clearly. Keep looking until you find the problem. I have solved quite a few problems by doing this. The Dc wheel problem was cured initially by adjusting the guide rails on points. My BR41 was solved by recalibrating the front driving wheels., Second DC wheel set cure was by increasing the rolling width of some wheels to stop them falling into the middle of the track after altering the wheels to the closer Marklin gauge. I had to look closely to solve those problems by repeated trials. All these problems were not so easy to find as the derailments never occurred consistently. Dereck Dereck I understand your point of view very well and I agree with you... except that... except that I don't have the agility or dexterity in my fingers and hands to do this kind of thing ...even if I find the reason for the problem . I'm having trouble targeting Marklin motors in the tracks, my wife is doing it. I never had the agility and I never will have it. And yet I tried... but it cost me a lot of money. I'm the guy to plow a 500 square meter garden with a F 660 honda tillers but I'm not the guy to put a little screw in a little hole since I was a teenager and I'm 65 years old. Blessed are those who know how to do it . Me I know my limits and insisting on doing so would be suicidal for my portfolio Serge
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dominator		#17 Posted : 13 June 2019 09:48:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,201 Location: Kerikeri		I wonder if your wife would be interested in doing the looking for you. Could save you money and have more available for her to spend. I remember visiting Lasse one evening and hew found a problem with one piece of track. He got me to run the traina back and forward over the track while he watched to see what was happening. Problem was fixed easily. Ok, Im only 67 [ 68 next month ], but with a back ground in engineering, and being a musician, my fingers are in excellent order. Dereck
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Thewolf		#18 Posted : 13 June 2019 16:04:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: dominator I wonder if your wife would be interested in doing the looking for you. Could save you money and have more available for her to spend. I remember visiting Lasse one evening and hew found a problem with one piece of track. He got me to run the traina back and forward over the track while he watched to see what was happening. Problem was fixed easily. Ok, Im only 67 [ 68 next month ], but with a back ground in engineering, and being a musician, my fingers are in excellent order. Dereck Derek You have to admit that your engineering education gives you an advantage over me. The debit-credit will not help me diagnose the problem that causes a 30 cm passenger car to derail, as it is my case. However, I must admit that I am able to calmly observe what is causing the problem. In this regard, the problem explanatory notes I send to Mike demonstrate my observations. It is a fact that my wife with her fairy fingers is quite capable of doing the most delicate operations, as long as she is told how and what to do. And this is where the problem is: assuming I have found the problem, I don't know how to do it and what to do to solve it. Save money by repairing by my wife ? I save money if the budget in my accounting for repairs is not allocated. I lose some if the budget is exceeded. As a chartered accountant, I manage the family budget like a company where absolutely nothing is ignored. Regards Serge
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dominator		#19 Posted : 14 June 2019 00:11:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,201 Location: Kerikeri		The main thing is that you enjoy the hobby like all of us on this forum. We all have different fields of interest. Mine is watching the trains perform properly, and fixing those that dont. For instance last night I saw the repair done to the BR38 described. That got me thinking about my 34121 which is really noisy at speeds above what would be prototypical. When I looked, I saw the bearing at the drive end of the shaft was really loose [ the shafts is not held firmly enough ]. It lets the pinion gear move away from worm gear. ??? Might be the noise but something to think about. I just saw your thread about that other loco that was written off by the manufacturer. Sounds like you may be better to talk to your friend to get him to fix your locos without sending them back to the manufacturer. Might be cheaper and you might still have a loco. Also I have a policy of using my new locos [ not that I can afford to buy new ones now ] when I get them to make sure they go well. When I bought the 26730 back in 2000, I used to run it on occasions then one day it went bang and would not go. I sent it back and Phil F repaired it for me at no charge. Dereck
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Thewolf		#20 Posted : 14 June 2019 14:00:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 2,078 Location: Cowansville, QC		Originally Posted by: dominator The main thing is that you enjoy the hobby like all of us on this forum. We all have different fields of interest. Mine is watching the trains perform properly, and fixing those that dont. For instance last night I saw the repair done to the BR38 described. That got me thinking about my 34121 which is really noisy at speeds above what would be prototypical. When I looked, I saw the bearing at the drive end of the shaft was really loose [ the shafts is not held firmly enough ]. It lets the pinion gear move away from worm gear. ??? Might be the noise but something to think about. I just saw your thread about that other loco that was written off by the manufacturer. Sounds like you may be better to talk to your friend to get him to fix your locos without sending them back to the manufacturer. Might be cheaper and you might still have a loco. Also I have a policy of using my new locos [ not that I can afford to buy new ones now ] when I get them to make sure they go well. When I bought the 26730 back in 2000, I used to run it on occasions then one day it went bang and would not go. I sent it back and Phil F repaired it for me at no charge. Dereck Dereck I really appreciate your suggestions and comments. I never send the locos to the factory by myself, I send them to the dealer who sold them to me and I have two delaers: my friend Mike for Marklin (99% of my equipment) and ERH for Roco and Brawa (I have some items). For your information, concerning the BR 39, I can't claim it from ERH and Brawa: it no longer belongs to me, this loco has been refunded to me up to the last cent. I received the refund this morning. However, to my knowledge and experience, Mike never sent Marklin locomotives back to Germany, he repaired them himself. A single problem with a single Brawa locomotive: return to the delaer and return to the factory with the consequence that we know. Nothing more to add. I'm not going to give up doing business with ERH, but let's just say that Brawa has taken a hit in the consideration I have for this brand. But...but...there is a Brawa item that makes me feel good: TWINDEXX VARIO DOUBLE-DECK TRAIN DB AG, 3-UNIT. I know myself, I'm able to order it t Regards Thewolf
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Andrew Holt		#21 Posted : 24 September 2021 06:40:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 24/09/2021(UTC) Posts: 1 Location: Auckland, Auckland		Hi "Thewolf", I assume two years down the track, you have sorted the issues you were having with your Swiss carriages. I have had the same issue and I've finally got around to looking at it (along with a few others that have been similarly having issues). Your post and the replies were useful for helping suss the problem. I'm just adding to the discussion for anyone else who looks at this, since I tried a few extra things which seem to have made a difference as well, in fact 5 things in total. 1) Coupler triangular "frame" What I found is the coupler was having trouble getting from side to side, forcing itself across with a jerk. Taking the triangular "frame" out (and trying not to lose the spring - one flew off somewhere!) there seemed to be some excess plastic making it tight for the frame to move past the mid point on the carriage chassis - see picture 1 (I hope these photos post in the right order). Careful work with the dremel to just take a millimetre or so off and it has made a world of difference to the free flowing of the couplers. Admittedly I don't like taking to the trains with a dremel, but given the frame is the cheapest and easiest part to replace if I got it wrong, I gave it a go. One of them was still stiff, so another millimetre off and it is good now. 2) Going around R1 curves, some of them S bends on the mountainous sections and through stations, it does look like the coupler could catch on the buffers or the buffers may tangle. I took your advise and pushed them further back into the chassis. 3) Not possible to do this with the loco, so have swapped out the close coupler with a relex coupler. 4) With the control cab, the wiring from the wheels just seemed a bit tight through the seating plastic, possibly pushing the conducting frame out of its slot and therefore loosening the coupler triangular frame underneath it. A bit of drilling to open up the hole a little more may be helping. 5) Finally the weight of the carriages. They are light and I was finding the control cab at the shoe end was sometimes derailing on the frog on turnouts when rounding the curve. The shoe possibly has too much spring and with the centre rail rising through the points, it lifts the wheel on the frog sufficiently to derail it. Instead of playing with the spring, I've put some ball bearings above each wheel set to hold all carriages down, also weighting the train so the resistance from the shoe at the back doesn't pull the intermediate carriages off the rails. All of these seem to be helping. I have run the train (admittedly only being the loco, 2 intermediate carriages and the control car, so not long) at speed and slowly in push and pull modes and it is now behaving itself. Given the number of times I've taken them apart, I wish I had the lighting kit on hand . . . and a bunch of passengers. I think the lighting will be a Christmas present for my son, since they are his carriages . . . good that he can finally enjoy using them. Regards, Andrew.


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H0		#22 Posted : 24 September 2021 08:03:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW		Hi! Originally Posted by: Andrew Holt 5) Finally the weight of the carriages. They are light and I was finding the control cab at the shoe end was sometimes derailing on the frog on turnouts when rounding the curve. The shoe possibly has too much spring and with the centre rail rising through the points, it lifts the wheel on the frog sufficiently to derail it. I had the same problem with a Märklin control coach. I reduced the tension of the centre-rail slider, I did not add extra weight. Problem solved without opening the coach. Adding weight can lead to new problems at other spots - and more wear on the axle bearings in the long run. I have many Märklin items where I removed excessive grates to improve them. Would be better to remove the grates before assembly at the company, but I know I expect too much.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS


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rhfil		#23 Posted : 24 September 2021 13:56:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth		I had a similar problem with that length cars going around corners. I observed the cars very closely and noticed that while going around the curve the back wheels on, I think the outside, would come off the track and then not relocate on the track further along. Moving the bogies, I discovered that they failed to fully turn. So I sprayed the surface of the car where the bogie rubbed and then moved the bogie to remove the source of the friction. That solved the problem.


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Mman		#24 Posted : 24 September 2021 17:46:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 252 Location: England, Guildford		At the height of my running Märklin H0 (currently run mostly Z) I changed all the close couplers for Relex ones as I could never get the close ones to reliably couple. I value things working well over realism. Some of the intermediate couplings on my illuminated rakes of coaches I swapped for Roco (?) current carrying ones as the early M ones weren’t reliable. At the moment I’m having trouble with Z current conducting ones on the first type of ICE known as coupling 3A, it took a few years but by the time M got to their later ICEs they had come up with a much improved one, although the ones on the Z gauge VT 08 work very well too. ChrisG
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