 Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Hello. I received a loco no. 3331. Unfortunately it doesn't go on my layout. It is an analogue M track with white transformer. Only lights are working. They change directions. A little buzzing can be heard from the engine but it is tiny.   Can I try en engine by putting a power straight on it? If yes, where? Many thanks
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 Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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Hello, prior to that make sure to clean the motor of any residue and check the carbons, when cleaning also check that all axles move freely.
Regards |
 German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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I will do it tomorrow and upgrade you with a results.
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 Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Wurttemberg
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Hi,
The decoder of this loco does not recognize the operation mode. For analogue operation all four dip - switches must be set to "OFF".
Regards
Markus
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Originally Posted by: Markus Schild  Hi,
The decoder of this loco does not recognize the operation mode. For analogue operation all four dip - switches must be set to "OFF".
Regards
Markus Hello Markus. Are you sure? This is not what it says on a box. Also on a decoder there is no switches. See picture above. 
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,442
Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: Markus Schild The decoder of this loco does not recognize the operation mode. For analogue operation all four dip - switches must be set to "OFF". There are no DIP switches. Old Delta decoders without DIP switches recognise the operating mode automatically. Later Delta decoders avoided license fees and required manual adjustment for analogue/digital mode. The latest Delta decoders hat automatic detection again. Sometimes 30+ decoders are simply dead. But Märklin locos out of boxes with a blue line are candidates for hardened oil syndrome (HOS), so maybe the decoder is not dead. But since the decoder has no overload detection, trying too long on a loco with HOS could kill the decoder. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
 2 users liked this useful post by H0
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Thanks guys.
I will service it tonight and then I should know a little more. I will let you know.
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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One more question. Can I put a power on engine to check is it actually working.
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,442
Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: Hics Can I put a power on engine to check is it actually working. You can safely apply power to the motor after disconnecting the decoder from the motor. Applying power to the motor while the decoder is connected might damage the decoder. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS |
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Ok. Where do I apply power to? On a picture above there are 3 cables: blue, green, black. Transformer has only two.
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 Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: Hics Ok. Where do I apply power to? On a picture above there are 3 cables: blue, green, black. Transformer has only two. **After deconnecting the decoder ** , Apply power to the black wire side and alternatively to the green side (forward) or the blue side (reverse) Good luck |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Originally Posted by: jvuye **After deconnecting the decoder ** , Apply power to the black wire side and alternatively to the green side (forward) or the blue side (reverse)
Good luck I will try it while servicing. Thanks
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 Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,225 Location: Montreal, QC
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Given the period when this model was made, my guess would be hardened oil. You reported that the lights changeover with reverse direction and there is a little buzzing from the motor.
If you remove the core of the motor, you will be able to determine if it is the motor itself or the gears which are gummed up.
Regards
Mike C
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Originally Posted by: mike c Given the period when this model was made, my guess would be hardened oil. You reported that the lights changeover with reverse direction and there is a little buzzing from the motor.
I'm hoping it is just this. Not a decoder. Actually I think that loco was never used in a past.
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: Hics Originally Posted by: mike c Given the period when this model was made, my guess would be hardened oil. You reported that the lights changeover with reverse direction and there is a little buzzing from the motor.
I'm hoping it is just this. Not a decoder. Actually I think that loco was never used in a past. In that case, there is a 99.9% certainty that the mechanism is locked.  Don't bother doing anything before ** unlocking the mechanism**. It's simple: get yourslef a flask of lighter fluid (e.g. ZIPPO) and pour a few drops in the motor bearings and from the bottom on the gear train. Repeat a couple of times, let it dry thoroughly. Remove the brushes and try to turn the (geared) wheels with your finger. If they still appear locked, repeat the lighter fluid routine until it's running smoothly, albeit with a little resistance due to the gear train. A few drops of oil in the gears, and a very small one on each side of the motor, re-install teh brushes and their springs, and you should be good to go. Good luck |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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Hi. I didn't have time yesterday to service it but I tried to spin the wheels. They don't move at all. Soo it is looking good. I might find some time tonight for a service.
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Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC) Posts: 167 Location: England, St Ives
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 Hehey. I'm proudly to announce it works!! Engine wheels where stuck. Also another axle was hardly spining. I cleaned engine, put few drops of oil here and there and it flies!! Only one thing. On a picture electornic in red circle is disconnected from the engine. I mean it is connected but only by touch. I'm expecting new soldering iron so I couldn't solder it? What is it for? Thanks
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Originally Posted by: Hics Hehey. I'm proudly to announce it works!! Engine wheels where stuck. Also another axle was hardly spining. I cleaned engine, put few drops of oil here and there and it flies!! Only one thing. On a picture electornic in red circle is disconnected from the engine. I mean it is connected but only by touch. I'm expecting new soldering iron so I couldn't solder it? What is it for? Thanks Good job. Don't worry about that component ! It's a small capacitor that was fitted as an interference suppressor. In the days of cable or satellite TV, WiFi and digital TV and radio they are no longer really needed. Enjoy the lok! Cheers Jacques |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
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