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Offline Giles  
#1 Posted : 28 October 2017 20:45:12(UTC)
Giles

United States   
Joined: 19/06/2017(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Maine, Saco
I took a chance and bought a used CS2 on ebay, with absolutely nothing to support it. I understand that it is unusable as is. Can I use my MS2 36VA power supply to see if screen responds to programming? If it appears to function, will the purchase of a 60123 cable plug into my MS2 box that connects to track?
It's about 4 hours later. I'm smarter, hard to believe. I will rephrase. I bought a Central Station 1, and not a CS2. I will power it with my 36VA. Will a 60123 cable connect to my Mobile Station 2 box (60113)?
Thank you for past and future responses.

Edited by user 31 October 2017 14:29:53(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline kiwiAlan  
#2 Posted : 29 October 2017 00:45:18(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
I have certainly operated my cs1 with a 36VA ms1 power supply, so I believe you should have no problem. I haven't operated more than one loco at a time with this arrangement.
Offline MaerklinLife  
#3 Posted : 29 October 2017 07:15:45(UTC)
MaerklinLife


Joined: 03/02/2016(UTC)
Posts: 490
Originally Posted by: Giles Go to Quoted Post
Will a 60123 cable connect to my Mobile Station 2 box (60113)?

The CS1 is basically same as an ECoS. I am pretty sure it is not compatible with the Mobile Station 2 nor its track box. Why would you want to connect it to the track box anyway? It has its own track output that you can use.
Offline H0  
#4 Posted : 29 October 2017 08:44:31(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: Giles Go to Quoted Post
Will a 60123 cable connect to my Mobile Station 2 box (60113)?
No.
You can connect the track output of the 60113 to the sniffer port and use the MS2s as throttles. You must not connect the 60113 to the track in this setup.

There is a special cable that connects the CS1 to the 24088 feeder track or the 60111/60115 track boxes, but there is no point buying that cable.
You can get the plugs you need for main track and programming track as spare parts from Märklin, from Conrad, or any good electronics supplier.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline clapcott  
#5 Posted : 29 October 2017 09:27:35(UTC)
clapcott

New Zealand   
Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,433
Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
The Sniffer port function is available IF you have the add-on adapter module on the Underside of the CS1.
The same module also offers the S88 support for the CS1.

This module did not ship until abut 18 months after the CS1 itself. And while it could be retrofitted (for free) when it did become available, this service was only provided by returning the CS1 to Marklin.

So, the module may never have been provided to the CS1 you have.
Or , because it is easily detachable , it may have been removed (to sell separately or for parts)
Peter
Offline Giles  
#6 Posted : 30 October 2017 21:14:03(UTC)
Giles

United States   
Joined: 19/06/2017(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Maine, Saco
My used Central Station 1 came in today. I have $30USD invested, so I' m looking at this as a learning tool. I have connected my 36VA transformer and the Central Station seems to be in operating condition. Counting from the power terminal, the cable which I would have to buy (terminal 4 of CS1) to connector box #24088, or #60115 or #60111 per instructions. I already have a gray #60113 connection box and a black connection box #60116. The ultimate question will this set up work with my Mobile Station 2 hardware and the purchase of a cable to get me from CS 1 to #60113. I do understand that only the CS 1 can be fed power and I'm connecting to M track.
I've yet to learn what the term "sniffer" is all about.
Offline clapcott  
#7 Posted : 31 October 2017 00:55:06(UTC)
clapcott

New Zealand   
Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,433
Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
You can totally forget about the 24088 or 601xxs as far as the CS1 (60212) needs are concerned

These are alternatives and only a marketing exercise to (theoretically) make it easy for older environments migrating from a MS1 (60651/2) layout

All you need is a two pin plug that fits to the track output
Ref: http://medienpdb.maerkli.../1/pdf/60212_betrieb.pdf
- top left configuration as per pg18
- 3rd from left as per bottom right image on pg28

B=Red 0=Brown

The CS1 will NOT recognise the MS2, so do not bother buying a 60124 (10pin to 7pin) adpater cable for the CAN sockets.




As mentioned, the Sniffer (and S88 and booster) ports became available well after the CS1 originally shipped.
Marklin are embarrassed by their handling of the CS1 so they have not posted a more modern manual with reference to the sniffer/S88

The adapter plugs on the bottom of the CS1 and provides two sockets. But one is used for two functions (pins 1-5, 6-7)
You should have received two short adapter cable 1) for pins 1-5 for use with a booster and 2) for pins 6-7 for the sniffer

The Sniffer ports pin socket which is used to wire in the Red/Brown from an older controller.
Originally envisioned for the 6021, you may also use the output of the 60116/60113(and MS2 and power supply).
Only MM protocol is recognised. - and it is only one directional.

CS1 sniffer

Personally I do not believe there is any merit at all in trying to get a MS2 to work with a CS1


P.s.
please correct the title of this thread
Peter
Offline Giles  
#8 Posted : 31 October 2017 16:27:59(UTC)
Giles

United States   
Joined: 19/06/2017(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Maine, Saco
Thank you again for the knowledge that you all shared. I think I have a reasonable handle on proper installation. I would ask a somewhat related question. I now know why I was able to buy my Central Station 1 for peanuts. The right side of the screen comes and goes, sometimes by manipulating case. I have the s88 module out and the 4 corner screws out. I can only separate the housing halves by about an inch. What did I fail to take apart?
Offline kiwiAlan  
#9 Posted : 31 October 2017 18:54:46(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Giles Go to Quoted Post
Thank you again for the knowledge that you all shared. I think I have a reasonable handle on proper installation. I would ask a somewhat related question. I now know why I was able to buy my Central Station 1 for peanuts. The right side of the screen comes and goes, sometimes by manipulating case. I have the s88 module out and the 4 corner screws out. I can only separate the housing halves by about an inch. What did I fail to take apart?


It is the springs in the battery compartment. They will catch on the case, and need to be pushed as you lift it. Using a small flat screwdriver to push them as you lift will stop them catching.

I have just opened mine and it had a similar problem.

Offline Giles  
#10 Posted : 31 October 2017 23:03:31(UTC)
Giles

United States   
Joined: 19/06/2017(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Maine, Saco
My Central Station1 halves are apart. The right side of the screen/display either works correctly, or shows vertical lines, or displays the left side of the screen again on the right side also. I am 99% sure it's the ribbon wire connection on the affeced side of the screen. The multilpin connector looks super fragile. I tried a cleaner/lubricant to no avail. What is the proper way to undo this ribbon wire connection? You guys have taught me a lot.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#11 Posted : 01 November 2017 12:19:21(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Giles Go to Quoted Post
My Central Station1 halves are apart. The right side of the screen/display either works correctly, or shows vertical lines, or displays the left side of the screen again on the right side also. I am 99% sure it's the ribbon wire connection on the affeced side of the screen. The multilpin connector looks super fragile. I tried a cleaner/lubricant to no avail. What is the proper way to undo this ribbon wire connection? You guys have taught me a lot.


These connectors are a pain. There is normally a locking piece that you pull out that frees the cable, and when you put the cable back in you push the locking piece to secure the cable.

The cable is an absolute pain to handle, and it can seem that you need to be an octopus to deal with the thing. I'll try and take some photos later.

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
Offline Giles  
#12 Posted : 02 November 2017 16:52:01(UTC)
Giles

United States   
Joined: 19/06/2017(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Maine, Saco
I went on You Tube to learn about ribbon cable connectors. Several sites said use only your finger nail to rotate the locking [clip up(no screw drivers). Well, for an old man I must have powerful fingernails. What a flimsy clip! It is "kinda" to late. I guess there must be more than one way to undo a ribbon clip, because mine is in pieces and the cable is still locked in. Crying
Offline kiwiAlan  
#13 Posted : 03 November 2017 17:21:30(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Giles Go to Quoted Post
I went on You Tube to learn about ribbon cable connectors. Several sites said use only your finger nail to rotate the locking [clip up(no screw drivers). Well, for an old man I must have powerful fingernails. What a flimsy clip! It is "kinda" to late. I guess there must be more than one way to undo a ribbon clip, because mine is in pieces and the cable is still locked in. Crying


This sounds like you have done something wrong ...

See photo of the connectors in my cs1 ...

20171103_161137.jpg

The black piece is the lock. On the connector I have removed you can see it is pulled away from the white piece. On the middle connector the left hand end is pulled back, but the right hand end is still pushed home. On the right hand (small) connector both sides are pushed home.

I was able to move the black piece quite easily with my fingernail, but depending on how 'fat fingered' you are, a fine screw driver may be easier. Once the black piece is pulled back the flex cable can be pulled out of the connector quite easily.

Offline Giles  
#14 Posted : 03 November 2017 18:21:19(UTC)
Giles

United States   
Joined: 19/06/2017(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Maine, Saco
I blew it. I tried to rotate the white part 90° like the You Tube videos. Oh well, I have gotten good knowledge from them before. Might you have any idea as to were I could buy the white hold down piece new or used?
Thanks for the help.
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