Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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I´m member in another train forum too.
I did told to the forum member,that i did decides to start Märklin K tracks.
They told to me,that edelstahl on the Märklin rail do have bad contact and oxid too much.
Peco is the best with the nickel silver and oxid almost nothing.
So i have question to you...how often do you clean yours Märklin tracks? |
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,443
Location: DE-NW
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Edelstahl cannot rust - if it rusts then it ain't Edelstahl.
Centre rail gets rusty. Outer rails collect gunk from traction tyres and dust and need cleaning.
Some two-rail users do not use traction tyres - they have less gunk on the rails.
I clean the outer rails when locos stop without contact or lights flicker too much. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
 1 user liked this useful post by H0
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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I find I need to clean my tracks more often since I went over to digital control. I guess the decoders are more sensitive to loss of contact, plus the trains run more slowly too which makes it easier for them to stop!
I give all my tracks a thorough clean about once a year, for which I really need to remove the catenary, which is a pain! I use a clean rag soaked in solvent (last time used white spirit) and rub the rails until they shine.
In normal use I clean patches that might get dirty when I notice locomotives hesitating at those points. This is usually a weekly chore.
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Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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1 user liked this useful post by RayF
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 Joined: 18/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,081 Location: Denmark
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I don't always clean my tracks, but when I do, I use Roco Rubber...  Anyway, I clean my track when the locos start to loose contact. It is hard to say how often it happens. A few times per year perhaps. Not really an issue. |
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1 user liked this useful post by sjlauritsen
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Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,528 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
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 I think dust is a bigger problem ( especially for the locos ), if you don't have your layout in a dust free environment. I have both Märklin 1-gauge stainless ( edelstahl ) and Peco nickel silver tracks, and I see no difference in need for cleaning. However, if you have humidity in the air, the nickel silver tracks will oxide, which by the way gives them a beautiful brown colour. This happens in my garden. Per. |
If you can dream it, you can do it! I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide. In case this is not legally possible: I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.  |
3 users liked this useful post by Purellum
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,443
Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: sjlauritsen  Anyway, I clean my track when the locos start to loose contact. Trix C track does not have stainless steel rails this thread is all about. And it doesn't have the tin-plate centre rail that gets rusty. Just in case the material (stainless steel vs. nickel silver) makes a difference. I don't think it makes much difference, if any. It seems we all clean when locos develop contact problems, so probably material does not matter. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS |
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 Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC) Posts: 417 Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
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I do a full clean once a year with some spot cleaning in problem areas...usually around switches where there is less contact. I never use abrasives anymore as the scratches encourage gunk growth. I use to clean every month but then I also realized that I over oiled my rolling stock. Now I oil as needed (squeaking) with a needle applicator. I also inspect and clean my wheels....which is a pain with the 32 axle schnabel  I do a few trains at a time. I use cork or micro fibre cloth although the track cleaning car does a good job too for general maintenance. If I need help, I will use wood alcohol or methyl hydrate. |
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6 |
1 user liked this useful post by witzlerh
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: witzlerh
I never use abrasives anymore as the scratches encourage gunk growth.
I agree, the micro grooves left by the abrasive become a dirt magnet. My preference is a piece of old heavy duty cotton, such as a piece cut from an old lab coat or denim soaked with some isopropyl alcohol or white spirit (lighter fluid). You do need to be careful with white spirit as it will attack some paints and plastics. But the other thing to remember is to clean the inside surface of the rail as well as the top, as a lot of the wheel contact is on the inside of the rail, especially when going around curves, but it affects the straights as well.
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1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 21/09/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,730 Location: Toronto
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I found that Marklin tracks (digital trains) need much more cleaning than analogue 2 rail tracks. I have never cleaned the 2 rail tracks and for my C tracks, I bought a Marklin track cleaner wagon that does the trick. I add Isopropyl to the wagon's cleaning brushes. That does the trick.  |
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Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,422 Location: Montreal, Canada
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Hi Witzlerh, Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you mean by "wood alcohol"? - Mark Originally Posted by: witzlerh .....
If I need help, I will use wood alcohol or methyl hydrate. |
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
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 Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC) Posts: 9,593 Location: Australia
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Adrian Australia flag by abFlags.com |
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Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,422 Location: Montreal, Canada
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Whoa...Thanks, Adrian, I am not sure we even have that in Canada. I just buy the Iso from the corner pharmacy for cheap. Smells nice and clean too. Is there any advantage to buy the toxic stuff? ie. Wood alcohol, denatured alcohol? - Mark Originally Posted by: xxup |
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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 Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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I have a huge K-track layout with dense trafic;The rails dont rust, nor do they get particularly dirty, when used regularly!
K-track has one big weakness though; If you ballast in wet, or have high humidity, the center rail-pukos WILL RUST; a lot and very fast, so in that aspect you must be careful. Especially older K-track with copper-conectors for the center-studs s very prone to rust. I havent seen problems with the newer phosphorized conectors.
To avoid problems, I ballast with alcohol instead of water, and I have a dehumidifier which maintains around 55-60%. In the 8 years I have had the current installation in the basement, I havent had any oxidation problems! :-)
Indeed dust seems to be the major problem, but instead of cleaning, I´ve found that running some of the heavier locos at high(er) speeds will clean the rails.
What I DO need to do once in a while, is to clean the wheels. -Of all rolling stock no less, as they all develop their won black "traction tires" formed by the "gunk" most ppl seems to have on their rails. Well, I have it on the wheels :-/ |
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2 users liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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