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trainbuff		#1 Posted : 26 November 2006 20:34:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 507 Location: Atlanta, Georgia		Hi, Marklin newbie here. I used to have a US dc layout about 30 years ago. I decided to try Marklin this time around. So I recently got a starter set with a BR 86. The rear telex coupler won't let go of the wagons. The part that pushes up to uncouple is magnetized and the coupler on the wagon sticks. I can hold the loc upside down and hang a paper clip off the rear coupler! I took it to the dealer, he tried it on his test track using his wagons. He agreed there was a problem and took a new BR 86 out of another starter set and it did the same thing. He said he would contact his Marklin factory representative. In the mean time I took the loc apart and did some exploring. Short story: it appears the motor's permanent magnet is causing the telex lever to be magnetized. Any suggestions besides holding on to the wagons while the loc pulls away? Other than that I pretty much happy with the Marklin starter set. Train sets sure have come a long way since I last had one... Thanks, Chris
		My Loks: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15896 My Layout: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15251
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Davy		#2 Posted : 26 November 2006 20:41:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 29/08/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,915 Location: Netherlands		Never heard of this problem before. I think their is made a production mistake.
		M-track with a CS2.
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steventrain		#3 Posted : 26 November 2006 22:18:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,723 Location: United Kingdom		Hello and welcome to the forum Chris.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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intruder		#4 Posted : 27 November 2006 00:43:36(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hello, Chris. Welcome to the forum Sorry about your problem. I just tested my BR 86 from starter set 29530 on my living room preliminar table oval. It seems to work perfect, the moving part falls down again emediately after switching it off.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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trainbuff		#5 Posted : 27 November 2006 02:19:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 507 Location: Atlanta, Georgia		Hi Intruder, thanks for the welcome. Can your BR 86 decouple from a single wagon? My coupler moves up and down fine too. Its the wagons I'm pulling that stay connected to the coupler when its in the up position due to it being magnetized. The coupler goes up and the cars just keep following the locomotive. Thanks
		My Loks: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15896 My Layout: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15251
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john black		#6 Posted : 27 November 2006 09:50:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by trainbuff <br />So I recently got a starter set with a BR 86. The rear telex coupler won't let go of the wagons. The part that pushes up to uncouple is magnetized and the coupler on the wagon sticks Hi Chris, thanks for the hint. Got the BR86 set for my Grandson about two years back but never tested loco functions with cars (in his storage box, still, til he's a bit older) Must do this, immediately ... Welcome to The Forum John post scriptum: Will you add "country" and "first name" to your profile, please
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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rschaffr		#7 Posted : 27 November 2006 15:03:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 5,193 Location: Southern New Jersey, USA		Hi Chris. I have this set and don't have a problem with the telex.
		-Ron Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051) http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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intruder		#8 Posted : 27 November 2006 19:39:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hi again Chris I have done some more testing with my 29530: The rear uncoupler is obviously magnetized. I tested in a straight and flat C-track: One car (4410) connected: it drags along for about 10 centimeters, held only by the the magnetic force Two cars (4410 + 4423) connected: about one centimeter Three cars (4410 + 4423 + 4430) connected: about one millimeter. All the cars are equipped with close couplers 7205.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Biased turkey		#9 Posted : 28 November 2006 05:17:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		I have the same problem too. I purchased the 29533 starter set including the BR86 loco 2 weeks ago. I did some tests tonight and have exactly the same problem with the rear coupler as the one described by Trainbuff. What makes me upset is that I purchased that starter kit as tha base for a ... switching layout on a door. Damn. I understand that a switching layout will require a few uncoupler tracks in order to separete the cars anyway because the cars don't heve telex couplers. My question is : On a telex equiped locomotive, can I use the uncoupler track to separate the locomotive and the car right behind it or will the magnetism problem still persist ? I don't have any uncoupler track so I cannot run a test.
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Alberto Pedrini		#10 Posted : 28 November 2006 09:59:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/07/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,448 Location: Italy		Hi friends, ask to your hardware store, there is a magnetizer for screwdriver that can be used to smagnetize if reversed. I don't know as is called in english. it'a a plastic ring with a powerful magnet inside. I'll post a pic this evening.
		Alberto Marklinfan Club Italia www.marklinfan.net
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Biased turkey		#11 Posted : 28 November 2006 17:24:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		It looks like the only solution is to "degauss" the cars and locomotive rear coupler , using an AC magnetic field , and not use the telex anymore. Does it make sense ?
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intruder		#12 Posted : 28 November 2006 17:37:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hi I think that the problem is not from the the uncoupler electro-magnet, but from the very strong permanent magnet on the motor. Once I installed a miniature relay next to the motor magnet in another locomotive. The relay went on as it should, but never released again.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Purellum		#13 Posted : 28 November 2006 17:50:35(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,530 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:I think that the problem is not from the the uncoupler electro-magnet, but from the very strong permanent magnet on the motor. If this is the case, it should be possible to isolate the magnetic field, by covering either the magnet of the motor, or the coupler with a piece of magnetic material. Even a shield between the two should help a lot. Is there enough space for anything? Per.
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Biased turkey		#14 Posted : 28 November 2006 17:58:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Oh, I see. If the problem is caused by the permanent magnet on the motor , the only way to solve that then would be to add some extra weight to each car. I did some testing yesterday night the the results match Intruder's one. I did some other testing wit 1 car only, and the problem is car dependent ( I suppose the car weight has an influence ).
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john black		#15 Posted : 28 November 2006 18:15:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Biased turkey <br />the only way to solve that then would be to add some extra weight to each car Guess you're right, Jacques. M surely keeps us busy ... [xx(]
		I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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intruder		#16 Posted : 28 November 2006 21:03:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hello everybody I removed the rear coupler from my 29530-locomotive to check the space. The distance from the magnetic field to the uncoupler in resting position is very small. I thought of a layer of lead between the motor and the uncoupler "rod", but not enough space. The long term magnetic field is not so strong, but more than enough to hold the piece of wire in place, even when I liftet the locomotive. The uncoupler "rod" rests against the thin loco chassis under the motor, and gets "infected" by the magnetic field from the motor. Anything between the floor and the "rod" will influence on the full movement of the uncoupler, prevent it from falling completely down. All you guys who knows a lot about metal: Is it possible to make the uncoupler of two different metals; cut it in half and make a new outer part of a non-magnetic metal?
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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WelshMatt		#17 Posted : 28 November 2006 21:29:10(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,345 Location: ,		What if you were to glue a piece of thin plastic strip to the uncoupler rod? This would stop the metal coupler loops from making contact with it and might well be enough to avoid the problem. Certainly it would be easier than altering the rod.
		Matt from Wales. When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality
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grnwtrs		#18 Posted : 28 November 2006 21:48:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC) Posts: 669 Location: El Sobrante, California		Hi All: I too am ticked off. I had this set on order last year, and my friendly dealer "forgot it" . That was the 29530 120v set. I re-reminded him of it this past July and he says oops, only in 230v. How about an exchange of 230v for 120v parts, Oh okay. duh. Now this problem. Any hope for me? Well I'm glad I got the BR 261's last year. Something telex, but not like the BR86 Gene on the left coast
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intruder		#19 Posted : 28 November 2006 21:53:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Will a plastic strip stop the magnetic force? I'm not sure, but it's possible to test.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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WelshMatt		#20 Posted : 28 November 2006 22:32:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,345 Location: ,		I was just thinking that the magnetic force probably isn't that strong if the coupler loop eventually "lets go" - a bit of plastic strip might space it enough to avoid the rod getting a grip on the loop in the first place.
		Matt from Wales. When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality
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Purellum		#21 Posted : 28 November 2006 22:46:06(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,530 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse		Note: This is suggestions, not tested!!!!!!!! On your second picture, the leftmost part of the uncoupler, which touch the buttom of the loc, can be bended a little downwards, and the space gained can be filled with some plastic-thing. Edit: I forgot it's a permanent magnet. <s>Second suggestion: drive the loc backwards "a little" and test again!</s> Per.
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intruder		#22 Posted : 28 November 2006 23:07:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Yes, it's possible to test, and then see if the lift height of the uncoupler is big enough. But I don't think I'll be doing that tonight.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Ross		#23 Posted : 28 November 2006 23:19:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 25/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 948 Location: Sydney, NSW		Hi Chris, Because of the permanent magnet for the motor, the telex coupler bar will become magnetized over time as it always sits in the magnetic field. I would do as Alberto suggests an demagnetize the uncoupler bar on a regular basis. You could remove the bar from the uncoupler and heat it with a soldering iron as this is another way to destroy the magnetism. The only way to shield the magnet is to use Mu-metal between the motor magnet and the telex uncoupler. You can also overcome the problem to some extent by shunting in the direction of the coupled wagon with the telex coupler on then stopping the loco fast and the inertia of the wagon will pull away from the loco Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by trainbuff <br />Hi, So I recently got a starter set with a BR 86. The rear telex coupler won't let go of the wagons. The part that pushes up to uncouple is magnetized and the coupler on the wagon sticks. I can hold the loc upside down and hang a paper clip off the rear coupler! Thanks, Chris
		Ross
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Purellum		#24 Posted : 28 November 2006 23:38:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,530 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse		Another idea: Is the power for the telex-coil DC? If it is, then changing the polarity can maybe help? Per.
		If you can dream it, you can do it! I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide. In case this is not legally possible: I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.
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hxmiesa		#25 Posted : 29 November 2006 00:06:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,612 Location: Spain		Okay, other ideas; How about downgrading the motor to the good old alstrohm? ;-) My BR86 is like that. A DELTA model from a starter set also. Works like a charm. (of course no loadregulation or other stuff like that, but who needs that in a shunter?) Alternatively; change the strong magnet to a weaker HAMO-magnet. I dont think it will be strong enough to seriously magnetise the hook as described, and the motor will keep almost all of its high quality running...
		Best regards Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain") http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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David Dewar		#26 Posted : 29 November 2006 00:32:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,492 Location: Scotland		I think you can buy a plastic type paint which if the pull is not too strong may do the job. David
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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trainbuff		#27 Posted : 29 November 2006 05:03:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 507 Location: Atlanta, Georgia		Hi Everybody, I agree the coupler itself is not magnetized but is transferring magnetism from the motor. A quick google search indicates magnetism can't be blocked. Besides the space between coupler and frame is maybe 1mm. I have decided to make a bi-material uncoupler as suggested by others (aluminum or epoxy). I will order a some couplers to experiment with and post results and pictures when completed. Maybe Marklin is listening and will make us some plastic couplers, you know, like a recall? In any case I want to keep my loc and fix it so it will work right for just one car. I too envision a switching type layout: something that incorporates a time saver. Thanks for all your suggestions and verifying the issue. This group is great! Chris
		My Loks: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15896 My Layout: https://www.marklin-users.net/fo...aspx?g=posts&t=15251
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intruder		#28 Posted : 29 November 2006 17:17:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hi Chris We are eagerly waiting for your results!
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Purellum		#29 Posted : 29 November 2006 17:25:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,530 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:A quick google search indicates magnetism can't be blocked. That is a matter of words. Maybe it can't be blocked; but a correct made shield in a magnetic material ( NOT lead! ) will make the magnetism take another route. Per.
		If you can dream it, you can do it! I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide. In case this is not legally possible: I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.
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Biased turkey		#30 Posted : 29 November 2006 17:38:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Maybe us ,all the BR86 owners ,we should start a class action against Marklin. It would be named the class...86 action.
1 user liked this useful post by Biased turkey		teerex
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intruder		#31 Posted : 29 November 2006 23:33:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Hi again. Some more information: I have two BR 86 which I have converted to telex and 60904: 2854 DB 86 578 3100 DRG 86 090 Both of them have the same problem as described here.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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trainbuff		#32 Posted : 30 November 2006 02:24:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 507 Location: Atlanta, Georgia		Purellum, you're right about mu metal. I wonder how one would calculate how much thickness is required. Another job for a Marklin engineer! Another idea (for same engineer) might be building a motor using a one sided magnet, like a circular Halbach array. No stray magnetism?
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Biased turkey		#33 Posted : 30 November 2006 17:18:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by intruder <br />Hi again. Some more information: I have two BR 86 which I have converted to telex and 60904: 2854 DB 86 578 3100 DRG 86 090 Both of them have the same problem as described here. Very interesting Intruder. If you converted 2 BR 86 locos to telex, does it means that I can "unconvert" my telex BR 86 to a normal coupler ? What Marklin parts number should I get to install a non telex coupler ? I don't care about having telex couplers , my 2nd loco is a BR 81 doesn't have one. I'm more interested in having smooth and reliable operations than having telex couplers. By the way I did some testing yesterday night with the BR86 and 1 single car , the lightest one in the set ,the flat car ( I don't know the Marklin p.n. ) Its weight is 41 gr. and I have to add ... 50 gr. in order to have a 100 % uncoupling rate.To complicate the problem , the more tests I did, the more the wagon coupler become magnetized.
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Purellum		#34 Posted : 01 December 2006 17:56:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,530 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Another idea: Is the power for the telex-coil DC? If it is, then changing the polarity can maybe help? Anybody thought about this yet? Testing "increased distance solution" can be done easily by small pieces of isolation tape on the bottom of the loc. As many layers as possible without interfering ( too much ) with the uncoupler. The greater distance from loc to uncoupler, the better. Per.
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intruder		#35 Posted : 02 December 2006 01:29:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Biased turkey Posted - 2006/11/30 : 16:18:21 Very interesting Intruder. If you converted 2 BR 86 locos to telex, does it means that I can "unconvert" my telex BR 86 to a normal coupler ? What Marklin parts number should I get to install a non telex coupler ? I don't care about having telex couplers , my 2nd loco is a BR 81 doesn't have one. I'm more interested in having smooth and reliable operations than having telex couplers. To convert "away from" telex, you have actually four options. 1. Just remove the uncoupler rod, M# 204523, and use the hook; M# 244560, as it is 2. Remove the rod and the hook and install a coupler with "Vorentkupplung", M# 218430 3. Remove the rod and the hook and install a Relex coupler, M# 218420 4. Remove the rod and the hook and install a close coupler holder, M# 288390, and use a close coupler, M# 70163. You need a new screw, M# 750120 In any case, you may also replace the coupler holder to one without the electro magnet, M# 230130 P.S. No warranty for correct spare part numbers! Please check with your supplier. You find all of it on www.maerklin.de, under "Service" and "Zeichnungen & Ersatzteil-Listen"
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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efel		#36 Posted : 02 December 2006 16:04:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC) Posts: 801		Hi, I had that problem too after conversion of my old BR86 (3696) with a hamo magnet. Then I decided to keep the old motor with electric magnet and use a (very good) 76200 UHL decoder. I would recommand that solution for those who want to convert old BR86 or have already made a conversion with hamo magnet (and kept their old magnet coil)! Fred
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Biased turkey		#37 Posted : 02 December 2006 23:14:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Thanks a bunch Intruder for posting the pictures and the Marklin parts number required to "downgrade" a telex coupler. But first, I'll let my Marklin dealer know about the problem.
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intruder		#38 Posted : 03 December 2006 01:42:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		You're very welcome, Jacques!
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Alberto Pedrini		#39 Posted : 07 December 2006 08:53:55(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/07/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,448 Location: Italy		I've tested mine yesterday and it doesn't have this problem, coupled and uncoupled one little freight very well. The only thing is to calibrate carefully the height end the slope of the hook.
		Alberto Marklinfan Club Italia www.marklinfan.net
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laalves		#40 Posted : 07 December 2006 12:14:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal		My 3096 converted with a 60904 has no problems either. Luís
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Biased turkey		#41 Posted : 07 December 2006 18:30:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by laalves <br />My 3096 converted with a 60904 has no problems either. Luís I don't think the 3096 has the same motor as the one used by the 29533. That explains why you don't have the problem.
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Biased turkey		#42 Posted : 07 December 2006 19:56:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Instead of "unconverting" the BR86 with a nontelex coupler, can I solve the problem by replacing the motor ? or does DCC requires a "high performance motor " ?
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cgarlati		#43 Posted : 08 December 2006 04:34:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 27 Location: San Francisco, CA		Just bought a new 29533 Starter Set and noticed the very same problem with my BR 86. Too bad because I am otherwise quite happy with the set. This seems to be a design issue and I am pretty sure there are hundreds of folks out there with the same problem. Did anyone check the German website or contacted the mother ship asking for help? I don't speak German but this seems to be the most obvious thing to do. Any volunteer?
		http://www.garlati.org/Altkirchen
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grnwtrs		#44 Posted : 08 December 2006 08:40:53(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC) Posts: 669 Location: El Sobrante, California		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by almagik <br />I've tested mine yesterday and it doesn't have this problem, coupled and uncoupled one little freight very well. The only thing is to calibrate carefully the height end the slope of the hook. Many thanks for the advise. Will check this out carefully. I am getting anxious to get my set. It has been on the road for about 10 days, so the 29533 should arrive any day. Hoping that the problem is absent from my set. Actually its for my grandson. Was supposed to be here last year. Oh well what is a year. I think Marklin also changed the cars in this set. Any ideas as how the cars compare to prior years cars? Gene on the left coast6
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intruder		#45 Posted : 08 December 2006 13:03:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Welcome to the forum, cgarlati! I think some of us are still thinking of making new uncouplers of two different materials, only the outer part is heavy enough. No plastic. By the way, I have a 29530, originally fitted with the hgh performance motor end Telex, and I have two BR 86 locos which I have converted myself to 60904 and Telex. No difference between the three of them. The two converted ones were converted in 2001, just after launching the 60904. They have not been used since, except for a short living room table drive from time to time. The magnetic force in the uncoupler rods are rather big, maybe due to the fact that the uncouplers have been resting very close to the motor magnetic field for a long time. They have been stored standing on the wheels.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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cgarlati		#46 Posted : 09 December 2006 12:12:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 27 Location: San Francisco, CA		Ok. I did some more tests. Intruder is definitely right and his diagnosis accurate. I swapped front and rear uncouplers along with their respective rods and the problem stays on the rear telex. Thus, the problem is not caused by the rod becoming magnetized but instead by the proximity of the permanent magnet of the motor. The magnetic field generated by the motor passes through the rod and is strong enough to hold the 5 cars of the 29533 even when the telex is activated and the rod raised all way up. The only thing I can think of is to try to contact Marklin to see what they say. In the end, this is supposed to be a premium product and they should care about preserving the Marklin's brand. To this end, it would be important to know how many among you are affected by the problem and if there is anyone who can successfully operate the rear telex.
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hxmiesa		#47 Posted : 09 December 2006 12:22:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,612 Location: Spain		The silence of Lutz Hemmerich is thunderous! ;-) I wonder why he hasnt been here explaining that his BR86 doesnt have that problem, and that the problem is of no big concern anyway. /irony off (sorry, couldnt help it... What I meant to say was; Does our Lutz have any additional info?)
		Best regards Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain") http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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pa-pauls		#48 Posted : 09 December 2006 13:32:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC) Posts: 1,843 Location: Norway		Have anyone tried good-old black electrical tape Try put some under the motor magnet,,, Maybe also on the underside of the loco What about a plastic piece under the motor magnet Could be worth a try do,,, [:p] Will test my 33961 later today for this "problem"
		Pål Paulsen Märklin Spur 1 Digital, epoche 3
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Biased turkey		#49 Posted : 09 December 2006 22:23:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 73 Location: Montreal, Quebec		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by hxmiesa <br />The silence of Lutz Hemmerich is thunderous! ;-) I wonder why he hasnt been here explaining that his BR86 doesnt have that problem, and that the problem is of no big concern anyway. /irony off (sorry, couldnt help it... What I meant to say was; Does our Lutz have any additional info?) Don't worry hxmiesa , I'm sure that good old Lutz will post some reply on that thread. He ( let's assume that the avatar pics matchs the gender ) is wise and collects data before replying to a thread. That's why he has a high credibility on this forum.
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cgarlati		#50 Posted : 10 December 2006 01:47:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 27 Location: San Francisco, CA		Pa-pauls, thank you for the suggestion. Yes, I tried with tape, paper, and plastic but they don't solve the problem - these materials don't shield magnetic fields. As an update, today I contacted Marklin at the following email addresses asking for help: 'tom@marklin.com'; 'kundenbetreuung@maerklin.de'; 'technikfragen@maerklin.de' I encourage everyone else who is experiencing the problem to do the same. If I hear back from Marklin I will promptly share their response with the forum.
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