Good job, Timaximus!

I haven't seen this loco before.

My profession makes me ask a lot of questions, so maybe this can help a little bit:

Is the flashing LED installed on a separate PCB?
How was it connected to the DELTA unit?
Are you aware of the extra function output on the 60760 decoder (f3)?

No wire is connected to this output, but there are an extra + solder pad (for orange wire, next to the original one) and an extra solder pad next to it for the f3 output. Maybe you can use that one, if the "flashing unit" is on a separate PCB.

Extra "orange +" solder pad: to the right of the orange cable (you can see the circuit on the board)
f3 output solder pad: to the left of the gray wire

Hi again

Black wire form the delta decoder is normally the same as the orange +, connected directly to the positive (cathode) side of the rectifier diodes.
Gray wire - maybe the function output?

If a dropping resistor is installed on the flashing light PCB, I would take the risk of connecting the black wire to the orange solder pad and the gray wire to the f3 solder pad.
Is it a flashing LED or a normal LED with a flashing circuit?

Then we see tomorrow, Timaximus.

If not someone else allready knows and reply to you.
Soon time to go to bed. Working day tomorrow. Good night.

Hello again

Just a close-up of the 60760 decoder, a little bit out of focus, I'm afraid.

Good evening

It is not so easy to see, but as far as it is posible to say, I presume that the white wire should be connected to f3 (negativ). Note the small "-" next to the LED.
The flashing unit is probably inside the black "thing" under the 22 microFarad condenser.
I can not see what the component between the black and the gray wire is.

This is how I would do it:
First of all, solder two wires to the decoder and connect them to a noraml small 22 Volt bulb (M# 610080), to see that the output is working, then:
Connect the black wire to orange+ solderpad.
Connect the gray wire to the f3 output solderpad, but first time via a 1kOhm resistor, to be on the safe side.
If nothing happens, I would connect the gray wire directly to the f3 output without the resistor.

If still nothing happens, I would repeat this in the opposite direction, with the grey wire to the orange + and so on.

But, I'm afraid that I cannot guarantee anything.
There must be someone in this forum that knows something or can see how it was connected originally?

Hello Svein,

I will give it a try.
But first I need to order a 1kOhm resistor.

Thanks for the info sofar.

I will make a better foto from that electronics element.

---

Hello Juhan,

As far I can see the 60760 is a cheap no-nonsense basic drive upgrade kit without any whistles & bells to upgrade Delta locs from cheap starter sets that are sold around the holydays ("Sinterklaas" and Christmas).

The Delta loc drives 10 times better after the upgrade and the lights keep burning this time when the loc stands still.
That is al I wanted.

I just build it in, no further experience sofar.

Timaximus

I bought 5 sets last year. they run quite ok nut it's not exactly the same as 6090x sets.
- Only 14 speedsteps (<-> 27 with 6090x with the 'between' steps), hard to set acc/decc delay not to notice these steps
- No advertised extra function outputs
- Yes, they are very sensitive to bad contact, but on my Crail layout it is still very doable. (= a lot more sensistive than 6090x, I had to add caps in 2 locos to fix this)

That's why this year I bought my motors and decoders seperately (they are 60903 & 60904 anyway, so 60760 was no choice really) on ebay. Ok, it cost about 50 euros/conversion (vs 30?) but the lolpilot decoder i used has a lot more programming options to play with. On ebay you can get a 'real' M conversion set for half the price.

In summary, the 60760 motor is great but the decoder is kinda crappy.

Bert

Hello Pa-Pauls,

Thanks, I will give your link a better look sunday.
But if needed can I ask you to translate?

Timaximus

Tamaximus, i agree with you. 60760 comes with a lousy decoder. The price though is so much cheaper than previous upgrade kits (6090x, etc).
As marklin says 60760 is LIMITED item so I would still buy lots of 60760 to stock up.
-if your loc is a cheap one then use its motor & decoder
-if your loc is a collectible, use only the motor, throw away the decoder and get an ESU decoder with sound, etc.

I find the 60760 set and it's decoder very useful. I have so far bought five sets.

- The maximum speed can be adjusted very low. Some locomotives has a very low max. speed, e.g. 60 km/h.
- Only 14 speed steps - more than enough for low speed locomotives.
- Cheap, with a good motor.
- Simple to install.
- I hope Märklin in the future also offers this decoder with cheap conversion sets for the small and large flat commutator motors.

No worries, Hendro. I would describe them as a basic decoder, as long as people realise that, and don't expect all the bells and whistles. Unfortunately I'm one decoder down, as I smoked one of them (screw shorted out a wire). I got black and red coloured smoke, quite spectacular, but the stink!! Pooh!![xx(][:(!][:0][}:)]

I tried to put the smoke back in the wires, but wasn't fast enough. Getting older, you see.....[:I][:o)][:0]