[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by nevw
<br />what a cunning stunt.
n

[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz
Very clever, Ross. How long does the 1200 grit last before it needs replacing?
Hmmmmm, I do have a spare one of these dump cars.....

David, I have used this on my layout and also Rudolf's and part's of John's layout. You will also see in the photo I have more than one Collector shoe set up so I can just replace the existing shoe when the 1200 grit has worn out. It only takes a few minutes to scrape off the old grit and glue a clean strip on. Even though the 1200 grit may look worn, it still provides more friction to remove the rust than a normal collector shoe.

Originally posted by Caplin
A brilliant idea, Ross. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Originally posted by nevw
what a cunning stunt.
n

Originally posted by Macfire
Ross - thanks. I have the same issue, casting around for a suitable wagon.
Cheers
Tony

Originally posted by steventrain
Very good.

Originally posted by pab
Good idea, thank you

Originally posted by Basil
Very simple and practical thanks Ross
Basil

Originally posted by efel
Is the wagon pushed or pulled by the loco?

Fred
Fred, I pushed the wagon in front of the loco so the studs are clean before the loco reaches that section.

Originally posted by David Dewar
Great idea.
David
PS Now available from the Flash Dave Company. Cheques or cash to be sent as usual.
Dave, we haven't negotiated royalities yet

Originally posted by al_pignolo
Wow! This is a great solution for one of my biggest problems!
Thank you!
Pietro

[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by bobhunt2
<br />Thanks very much for the tip Ross - I am about to put it into practice.
In discussing it with a colleague he said that he had constructed and ran the cleaner as specified by you and the only thing that it had trouble with are uncoupling tracks. He said that they lifted the car off the rails because of their greater height.
Bob, I have just tested it over some uncoupling tracks and have had no problems. The collector shoe springs must have been very strong to lift the wheels of the track or your friend has mounted the collector shoe too high above the wagon floor

On reflecting on that information I asked myself why that did not happen with locos and the conclusion I have come to is that their greater weight causes the pickup to compress rather than elevating the wagon they are attached to.

Do you think I am right, and if so would the solution be to attach the device to a wagon which can readily be loaded to increase its mass?
Bob

Bob, I chose the dump car because I could add weight to it if required, on testing it I didn't have to use any weights.

Originally posted by DaleSchultz
I am somewhat alarmed that you guys are all happy to sand down the center contacts... even 1200 grit will likely wear them down and I suspect you are creating big problems down the track...

Dale, If this car was used all the time I would have to agree with you, I did state that I haven't run my trains for some time and found this to be an easy way to fix the problem. My track is over twenty years old and I'm finding that failing points and double slips is more of a concern than the slight wear of the centre contacts (pukos).

Originally posted by rschaffr
I have found that running the trains more keeps the pukos clean merely by the sliders running over them, unlike the rails that accumulate crud no matter how much you run the trains. If I have not had an operating session in a week or so, I get a lot of interruptions due to dirty pukos, but this "heals" itself after a few loks have passed over.

Ron, I agree with you that regular running trains maintains the centre contacts (pukos) on main line areas but in areas such as shunting yards this can be more of a problem. In my case even running the trains at full speed couldn't get throught the bad areas.

Originally posted by hemau
The great big model railroad in Merklingen might be - as I heard or read somewhere - abolishing 3-rail because the center studs wear off. I don't think that's because of rust.
On the other hand, the more you sand, the more the studs will rust. I've done it all and I'm not in favor of it. It's better to get some kind of coating on them, e.g. WD40 to prevent them from rusting in the first place.
Regards, Henk.

Henk, Sanding is only part of the answer. In places where I can reach I also apply Electrolube to seal the bare metal studs and this also works very well but is very time consuming. Writing this article is the first in my track cleaning tips. I'm also working on an applicator that will apply Electrolube/WD40 in the right amounts to help protect the centre studs, so stay tuned folks [:p]

[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by bobhunt2
<br />Thanks yet again Ross - looking forward to your next stage, which should act as preventative maintenance.
Bob

[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by al_pignolo
<br />Hi Steven. You surely still know, but Marklin still produces a cleaning wagon (#46042).
Pietro

[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by bobhunt2
<br />Ross, thanks for the latest instalment - the stud cleaner, which I now have under construction.
I have cleaned all my layout now and it is running very well.

I notice in your PDF that you use Electrolube as the cleaner and I wondered how it might compare with Wahl hair clipper oil which I have seen recommended elsewhere?
Bob
I have used Electrolube for a long time and find it works very well. The important thing is the oil should be able to conduct power and also form a protective coating on the stud to stop/slow down corrosion

Originally posted by kimballthurlow
Hi Ron,
I run my trains regularly (longest a month apart), and I have the same experience, after a few rounds of the track, everything functions properly. Lighted coaches start off flickering, but settle down to a steady glow after about twenty rounds.
regards
Kimball
Kim, I agree with you, that regular running will maintain the centre studs, but on those less used sections such as sidings some cleaning/protective maintence is required from time to time.

[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by nevw
<br />OK ROSS......
Anyone over 50 has the odd seniors moment
Originally posted by Legless
I'm with you Nev. With a slight modification I can see it reaching the centre studs.
Mike, the wheel diameter has to be large so it only lubricates the studs and not the ballast and sleepers. The other problem is that the wheel has to move up and down to go over points and uncouplers. Being a longer car you would also have probelms with the wheel running off the studs in curves