One needs a short current pulse to activate the switching solenoid and permanent current, which turns the turntable. The two red sockets represent the permanent current supply for the turntable motor engine. You can use Maerklin turnout control switches or use two TRIX function controllers.

If you use TRIX: The two red sockets represent the permanent current supply for the stage engine. These I would connect to both contacts on the Yellow controller No. 66594. Pushing one button moves the stage in the clockwise direction, the other one in reverse. The brown socket serves for the release of the switching solenoid. I connect these to the connectors on the TRIX Green controller No. 66595.

You will need to then attach the common to your AC transformer accessory outlets and attach the other to the Yellow and Green function controllers. You can attach both function controllers togther. The Yellow controller turns the table and the Green sets the current for the next spur track.

I can provide you some other instructions using toggle switches later this evening.

Hello again Troy,

I am attaching a link to a diagram that should help you out with the use of SPDT (single pole double throw) switch for operation of the turntable. Print a copy for your records. This was taken from the Layout Building Handbook for Operators of Marklin HO Trains by Carl Weaver. This book is available for purchase from Marklin USA via their website.



The Light bus in the diagram is used for other layout wiring that requires the yellow wire to the AC accessory outlet on your transformer. The BRown wire goes to the brown colored outlet on your transformer AC accessory side or a ground loop or bus if you use one.

Let us know if you got it working.

Edited by moderator 11 January 2011 14:09:31(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Almost forgot. On this old turntable it is best to by pass the plugs and hard wire to the leeds under the turntable. Good connection is important.
Eric

Thanks Maurice, it all makes sense now. The SPDT changes directions and the start button fires the release. I've never had the original switch, but I do have a 7072 and it has a very cheap feel to it. It doesn't really match the build quality of the other Marklin things I own. I can't wait to get the parts I need tomorrow. I'll post pics when it's finished. Thanks again for your help.

Is the start button a momentary toggle switch?
Eric

Maurice
I was looking at SPDTs and found everything from 20 amp to 1 amp. My "Marklin Super" transformer has German writing all over it, which I can't read, but at one point is says 2,0 amps. Does that comma represent a period (2.0)? Should I play it safe and just buy 20 amp switches?

Also, I have an old 451 (7051) crain that also doesn't have a switch. Does that Carl Weaver book also have a diagram for this switch? I was about to start a new thread, but I thought I'd ask you first. I have looked for the book, but apparently it's out of print and selling for $99 used. Thanks again
Troy

Hi John and Eric,

You are very welcome and glad to have been of some assistance. The text is listed for sale on Marklin's web site http://www.marklin.com/newprod/special_items.html

You could also try calling the Roman or Rey at Reynaulds in Elburn, IL they may still have some copies of Carl Weaver's book also.

In Germany the comma represents a decimal point so 2,0A = 2.0A. I can check my Carl Weave book this evening when I get home and get back with you on a switch for the crane. I think you could use another SPDT type. You could also call a Marklin dealer and see if they have a compatible switch that comes with the newer model cranes. I will also list the Radio Shack part numbers of these switches and buttons so you know which ones to purchase.

Since turntables operate from the AC accessory outlets of your transformers I wonder whether you could even use a Fleischmann 6910 turntable controller which retails for around $37.00. This controller is used for their DC turntables. Maerklin's 7286 turntable was a joint venture with Fleischmann so this controller may work?? Maybe the controller for the Maerklin 7286 would work for the 7186??

Train electronics are so much fun especially when we have to improvise. I think that the newer digital controllers would also operate the turntables and cranes however they are much more expensive. Enough of my rambling.......I will post the SPDT part numbers etc. this evening.

Hi Troy,

Thanks for the reply. This train bug does get us hooked. There is always something new to learn and try. I resurrected all my old stuff about 5 years ago and am still building and operating 2 separate layouts. I plan on making a small travelling layout that will fit in the back of a mini-van to take to train shows at some point.

There are lots of exceptional folks in this users forum with superb modelling techniques and experience. You will be able to get all your questions answered here by someone.

Ok, I have not been able to get out to Radio Shack yet, but I did have some switches around the house. I took the reset button off of an old computer to be the release button and a pick-up selector switch off of a guitar to change direction. The button worked great, but I could not get the switch to work. I think I know the problem though. Tell me what you think; the switch resembles an STDP with three connections on the back, but the lever on the switch is only two-way, up and down. I know that STDPs have a three-way lever, with off in the middle. With my attempt, I ran the yellow accessory wire to the middle connection on the back of the switch and the two reds from the table ran to the connections on either side of the yellow (just like in the diagram). I had the ground (brown) wire connected to the transformer and the release button from the computer connected, also. The button worked, but the switch did not. Should this switch have worked? Do I maybe have a bad motor on my table?

IT WORKS!!! Like I said earlier, it's a 410 table, which I read on this board means it's pre-1957. I wasn't sure if it would go. The one problem is that it makes a screaming, whistling sound when it turns, and sometimes it just stops. I oiled the gears on the motor and it sounds like a million bucks. I can put a little pressure on the middle of the rotating track and it connects and works again. The turntable itself is pretty dirty with years of caked on dust. Do you think maybe it just needs a good cleaning?

I bought a project box from Radio Shack, part #270-1802. It's the perfect sized housing for this switch. Right now I have the wires just running out of the box straight to the table. I'm looking into a way to set up a kind of connector on the side of the box so that I can disconnect the wires if I want, similar to the Marklin switch boxes in theory. I was checking out some spring-loaded speaker wire clips that go on the back of speakers. I'll keep looking and see what I find.

I ran the table a few times and it started to sound better. I think a few more laps and it will be fine. Here it is: