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Offline Cargodog  
#1 Posted : 21 March 2015 22:49:41(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
I have 9 lok's that I need to convert to digital. For 8 of them I need to retrofit them with a 5 pole motor. Now, I saw there's a sticky thread on the subject, and I'm sure the info on there is correct. However, I'm not sure how I determine what kind of motor is currently in the lok's, which, as far as I understand, determines which replacement motor I should buy.

Finally I'd need to buy ESU loksound V4.0 for all 9 lok's. There are different ones for different lok types. How do I figure out which ones to buy? Apparently you can program the decoders to match the specific sound of a specific lok, but that would require a loksound programmer. Is it really worth the money to buy a Loksound programmer just to convert 9 lok's? Will shops program the decoders for me? I know there's a store in Denmark that offer that service. However, I've inquired about a week ago, and they haven't gotten back to me. I can't wait forever, so I need to look for other suppliers/options.

I hope the above made sense, and that someone can point me in the right direction on this matter.

I have pictures of my lok's motors, so maybe if I post them, someone can tell med which ones has which motor, and explain to me how I can determine that for future ref.


Thanks in advance,


Rene
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 21 March 2015 23:07:02(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Hi!

With respect to motor types: post the number on the loco or, even better, the ref. number and indicate if it has two carbon brushes or a mix of carbon and copper brush. Or post pictures of the motors.

Some dealers load the sound of your choice on the decoders. This may cost a few Euros extra. 9 decoders are probably not enough to reach the break-even point, but if the future will bring some more analogue locos then it's probably worth getting the LokProgrammer.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline Cargodog  
#3 Posted : 21 March 2015 23:34:46(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Hi Tom,

Thanks for info. Most of my trains have no boxes, so I don't know the model numbers. I'll post pictures of one of the lok's now to see if the pictures I have are sufficient to determine which motor I need. Also, of anyone knows the model numbers, it'd be appreciated.

Unfortunately I have to post each picture in a separate replay, as they otherwise show up as the same picture. A bit annoying, but that's the best I can do for now, as I'm on the road for the next week, and only have my iPad to work from.

This old lok is a childhood favorite of mine. I didn't keep the box, so I don't know much about it.
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#4 Posted : 21 March 2015 23:36:19(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Picture #2

Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#5 Posted : 21 March 2015 23:37:54(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Picture #3
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#6 Posted : 21 March 2015 23:39:28(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Picture #4. Last one of this lok.
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Shamu  
#7 Posted : 22 March 2015 05:16:26(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Hi Rene,

Looks like a BR01 to me, but I could be wrong......... it has a DCM (Drum Communicator Motor) so a 60941 is the kit for it, just add your preferred decoder.

So long as you show photos of the brush plate of the other engines someone here will tell you what they are.

Best of luck with the conversions. ThumpUp
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Offline H0  
#8 Posted : 22 March 2015 07:44:51(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: Cargodog Go to Quoted Post
Picture #4. Last one of this lok.
The motor you see here is called DCM or "drum commutator motor". It has two carbon brushes.
It's the newer motor type from Märklin, and usually can easily be replaced with motor parts from 60941 - as Shamu already wrote - or 60760.
The two carbon brushes are opposites.

The other type of motor has brushes side by side. It's the older type, comes in different sizes and some variations and sometimes there are complications converting it.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline jvuye  
#9 Posted : 22 March 2015 09:28:04(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Right! As Tom says, just show us a picture of the brushplate and we'll be able to help you.

As for buying a Lokprogrammer or not, I'd think it's a no brainer!
If "time" has any value for you, then get one!
You'll appreciate the comfort of figuring out what you want the decoder to do without having to decode all the programming details (CV numbers, binary values, etc..)
Today's Lokpilots and Loksounds have extremely powerful and complex function mapping that allows for virtually any combination and permutation of features.
And being able to customize and fine tune all your sound slots is by itself enough justification IMHO.
And the ESU support is excellent: the software is free and updated regularly and the website ia treasure through of info, tips and tricks

But remember, you need a Windows PC ....

Cheers
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline river6109  
#10 Posted : 22 March 2015 10:08:39(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,636
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
for future references its a DB BR 003 and its catalogue number is 3085. notice the brush plate plate is upside down, so when converting make sure its in the same direction, also make sure its doesn't interfere with the metal housing from the spring holder and that it can turn fully without touching anything else, for safety reasons I would just place a transparent sticky tape on the inside of the housing to prevent the motor shield touching it.
you can dd many gadgets such as gear lights, smoke box light, led's and the decoder usually goes into the tender including the loudspeaker if you intend to add a sound decoder.
also use thin wires because thick wires could prevent the tender and loco from moving sideways and before you convert it clean the loco gears, wheels and tender wheels, I also add a mass contact to the tender

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline Shamu  
#11 Posted : 22 March 2015 10:32:49(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Well spotted John, I should have counted the domes.

I would recommend "Kaptron" tape for insulation, far stronger/heat resistant and thinner than normal Insulation tape and way superior than sticky tape.

Easily found at good electronics stores and on eBay, comes in all shapes and sizes. Best to pay a little more and get the 3M stuff.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Offline amartinezv  
#12 Posted : 22 March 2015 10:36:20(UTC)
amartinezv

Spain   
Joined: 25/08/2004(UTC)
Posts: 320
Location: Madrid,
Hello

In my web site I have, how to know what kind of motor is?

www.davidruso.es/motores/motores.htm

Also a table with what kind of motor in wich loco

You can translate with google.

Best regards
Antonio Martínez
marklin, IB, era 3, Train controller
www.raildigital.es/davidruso
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Offline river6109  
#13 Posted : 22 March 2015 12:19:53(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,636
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
website not working for me, try this

http://www.davidruso.es/motores/motores.htm

thanks for all the information
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline Cargodog  
#14 Posted : 23 March 2015 10:34:51(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
First off, thanks for all the replies and inputs. It really is appreciated.

I still can't wrap my head around this SFCM, LFCM, and DCM. It's probably because I don't have the lok's right in front of me, but only have the pictures to go by. But... Let's see how I'm faring.

This crocodile 3015 would be SFCM and I should use 60943?
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#15 Posted : 23 March 2015 10:40:43(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
This is a 3048. SFCM with 60943?
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#16 Posted : 23 March 2015 10:43:56(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
This NOHAB 3067 is SFCM with 60943?

Update: Apparently it's LFCM and needs 60944. Can anyone confirm?
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#17 Posted : 23 March 2015 10:47:24(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
This little V60 is either a 3064 or 3065. I have both models, but in guess they're the same in terms of motor? This should also be SFCM WITH 60943?
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#18 Posted : 23 March 2015 10:52:12(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
I have no idea what the catalog number is on this one. Should be SFCM with 60943?
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#19 Posted : 23 March 2015 10:56:43(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Again, I have no idea about catalog number. If anyone knows the missing numbers of this and above posts, I'd like to know. Makes it easier when I need to get the correct sound.

This should be DCM 60941?
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline H0  
#20 Posted : 23 March 2015 11:01:31(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: Cargodog Go to Quoted Post
This crocodile 3015 would be SFCM and I should use 60943?
That's a DCM and a candidate for 60941. Maybe it is 3056, not 3015.
To get the Crocodile through R1 curves you would need a special field magnet which is no longer available.
You can grind off a bit metal from the field magnet to solve this issue.
I did that for my Crocodile and I should have a picture somewhere ...
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline amartinezv  
#21 Posted : 23 March 2015 11:01:59(UTC)
amartinezv

Spain   
Joined: 25/08/2004(UTC)
Posts: 320
Location: Madrid,
Originally Posted by: Cargodog Go to Quoted Post
First off, thanks for all the replies and inputs. It really is appreciated.

I still can't wrap my head around this SFCM, LFCM, and DCM. It's probably because I don't have the lok's right in front of me, but only have the pictures to go by. But... Let's see how I'm faring.

This crocodile 3015 would be SFCM and I should use 60943?


The trick is to watch the brushes, they are some small parts, usually mades of carbon or graphite and they are in place by means of a spring, in this loco the 2 brushes are perpendicular to the axle motor, so, this is a DCM (Drum (cylindrical) Conmutator Motor) also the 2 bruses looks like square prism and are made os graphite, the kit is 60941

Antonio Martínez
marklin, IB, era 3, Train controller
www.raildigital.es/davidruso
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Offline Cargodog  
#22 Posted : 23 March 2015 11:25:32(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Thanks, David and Tom,

Except for the crocodile, the others should be correct? I just changed the NOHAB to a LFCM, as I found some info here:

http://www.ajckids.com/TRAINS/MAIN.ASP?nr=92

Can you confirm that?

Cheers, Rene
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline GLI  
#23 Posted : 23 March 2015 11:50:31(UTC)
GLI


Joined: 28/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 82
Location: Lithgow NSW Australia
Hello Rene

The Crocodile you have described as a 3015 is actually a 3056 crocodile. It has a DCM.

The 3048 has a LFCM. Converting it to 5 pole DCM motor is not straightforward as it has a different faceplate, compared to the usual plastic version. I understand that a special kit is available, but I do not have the details. Another member of the forum may be able to assist.

The 3067 Nohab has a LFCM with the usual plastic motor faceplate, and requires a 60904 for conversion.

You are correct that the V60 has a SFCM and requires a 60903 for conversion.

I think the catalogue number for the BR 23 is 3097 (I am relying on my memory here) and it is fitted as you state with a SFCM.

The last loco is a BR 78, and has a DCM, but I am unaware of its catalogue number.

I trust this may be of assistance.

Geoff
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Offline biedmatt  
#24 Posted : 23 March 2015 12:22:22(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
As others have stated, 3048 is a tough one. It uses a unique motor brush plate. They made some kits (# 188838) when they re-introduced the same loko as 30080, but those kits are sold out at Marklin. They can be had at the moment on eBay.de. I used ESU's Hamo magnet #51960 and kept the same brush plate and brushes. With an ESU decoder, they run great.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
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Offline amartinezv  
#25 Posted : 23 March 2015 12:38:41(UTC)
amartinezv

Spain   
Joined: 25/08/2004(UTC)
Posts: 320
Location: Madrid,
Originally Posted by: Cargodog Go to Quoted Post
This is a 3048. SFCM with 60943?


Hello,

In this case the brushes are parallels to the motor shaft, and both are cylindrical, one is made of graphite and the other is made of copper, this is a Flat Conmutator Motor, this motor can be Small or Large, in this case is Large, so this is a LFCM, the kit is 60944, this kit provides 2 motors cover and 2 rotor, to must choose these that looks same as you loco.

Best regards
Antonio Martínez
marklin, IB, era 3, Train controller
www.raildigital.es/davidruso
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Offline Cargodog  
#26 Posted : 23 March 2015 14:15:01(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
I've done some more research based on the info given here. Geoff, that was very helpful. I now have the catalog numbers of all my engines.

To summarize, I need:

3 x 60941 (for Br28/3106, 3085, and Croc 3056)
3 x 60943 (1 for 3097, and 2 for the V60's 3064/5)
1 x 60944 (for NOHAB 3067)
1 x 18838 (for 3048, which apparently requires a special kit that I found on the German eBay).

Does that look correct? Then I'll go ahead and order it.

Next up are the ESU loksound decoders. I'll start looking into that now.

Edited by user 23 March 2015 22:59:22(UTC)  | Reason: Added a lok I forgot in original post

If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#27 Posted : 24 March 2015 08:33:04(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Hi again,

I've now tried to learn about the different ESU Loksound decoders. Let me see if I understand this right. Here are some of my questions after my research:

1) The Loksound V4.0 is available with 3 different possible plugs. 6 pin, 8 pin, and 21 pin. 8 pin seems to be the standard. Is there a good reason to go for the 21 pin?

2) No matter how many pins I go for, I can also choose between the V4.0 and V4.0 M4. The M4 version is about $11 more. Is there any reason to go for the latter? I've had a look at the tech specs from ESU (See picture below).

A) As far as I can tell, I get switchable shunting mode/brake time with the M4. Is this important?

B) Also at the bottom of the chart, under the M4 version, it is mentioned that there is 32 mbit flash memory. This is not mentioned under the "regular" version, however this flash memory is mentioned under specs on other websites. Can anyone confirm which is correct?

C) I understand this memory can be used for recording up to 272 seconds of sound files, which could potentially be pretty cool.

I've decided to buy the loksound programmer, which then lead me to believe I should be buying either ESU 54400 (for the regular version ($125)), or ESU 64400 (for the M4 version ($136) depending what answers I get to the above questions.

I know I've been asking a lot of you guys with all my noob questions. This should be the last of the bunch for my current shopping list.

Cheers, Rene...
Cargodog attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline H0  
#28 Posted : 24 March 2015 09:20:45(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
M4 is ESU's name for mfx (mfx is a Märklin trademark).
32 MBit applies to all three columns on the left. You get shunting mode also with DCC (without mfx).

With 21 pins you get a PCB you install in the loco and just plug the decoder in. Nice to handle IMHO.

There are two 21-pin-sockets.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline Cargodog  
#29 Posted : 24 March 2015 09:27:12(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
M4 is ESU's name for mfx (mfx is a Märklin trademark).
32 MBit applies to all three columns on the left. You get shunting mode also without DCC.

With 21 pins you get a PCB you install in the loco and just plug the decoder in. Nice to handle IMHO.

There are two 21-pin-sockets.


Thanks, Tom,

So what I'm reading from your reply is that I should get the V4.0 "regular" with 21 pins? What is PCB?
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline H0  
#30 Posted : 24 March 2015 09:57:00(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
PCB = Printed Circuit Board. ESU calls them adapter boards (either get #51968 or #51967 separately).
You should also get two chokes (I don't have the ESU or Märklin ref. numbers at hand).

I don't need mfx, so I prefer the regular version. So 54499 would be the decoder for me.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline river6109  
#31 Posted : 24 March 2015 10:10:20(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,636
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Rene,

the ESU 51967 is an adapter plate for the 21 pin decoder, it gives you light and 2 Aux functions, the ESU 51968 adapter plate has 4 Aux functions, by using a Lokpilot you would have to share the shunting and acceleration and braking delay with the Aux function, by using a sound decoder you can use 4 aux independent. there is another adapter plate with more Aux functions and this suitable for steam locos with 2 Telex coupling, smoke generator, cabin light, gear light and firebox.

if you use the ESU ECoS command station as well you will be able to activate "RailComPlus" which automatically detects your decoder but has an open protocol whereas the M4 is a closed protocol with a limit of CV's being programmable.

there is no difference between the 21 pin and 8 pin decoder except the 21 pin decoder uses one set of wires less and this can be handy, where as it is recommended to use an 8 pin socket with the 8 pin plug also available from ESU or on ebay., the benefit for an 8 pin socket or an adapter plate if you decide one day to exchange the lokpilot for a sound decoder all you have to do is unplug it and insert the new one.
with a lokprogrammer you can also buy a generic sound decoder and download the sound yourself (very simple), with a lokprogrammer you can add sound files to your existing sound decoder mainly station announcements (from different railway companies), whistles, horns, rail clanks and others.


John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline H0  
#32 Posted : 24 March 2015 10:49:41(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
[...] by using a Lokpilot you would have to share the shunting and acceleration and braking delay with the Aux function [...]
No. It's just a matter of function mapping whether they are shared. No difference between LokPilot and LokSound here.

Both ESU boards give you 4 AUX outputs. The board with the higher number gives you four amplified AUX ports, the board with the lower number has two amplified AUX ports and two unamplified AUX ports.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline Cargodog  
#33 Posted : 24 March 2015 11:07:22(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Thanks again, guys.

It seems I'll be going for the ESU 54499 decoder and ESU 51968 adapter plate for all my lok's, as most of them are Steam, and I would like to uograde to telex coupler in the future. On that note, I guess I'd have to change the couplings on all my cars? Which means it's all or nothing if I convert to telex couplers, right?

So to summarize this thread, I'll need to buy the following:

A) A combination of motors (60941, 60943, 60944, and 188838) that I've mentioned earlier in this thread, I should be good on the motor side of things.

B) To compliment the motors, I'll buy the ESU 54499 decoders and 51968 adapter plates for all trains.

C) To program my decoders, I'll buy the lok programmer 53451.

Other than the chokes that Tom mentioned (which I'll try to source now), is there anything else I'll need for this project?

Update: I can't seem to find the Choke coils anywhere (neither from Marklin, nor from ESU). Does anyone have a link to a shop that sells them online?
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline river6109  
#34 Posted : 24 March 2015 12:00:04(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,636
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
to improve the running characteristics you can also insert ball bearings with motors which have a drum style armature at the back of the motor, remove the plastic or brass insert and press a 4mm x 2mm x 1.5mm ball bearing in from the outside in., the motor shield needs a drill to be able to drill a 4mm hole. this exercise will eliminate the oiling of the armature and you will not have any seizures in future.

your chokes should be available at any electronic store or ebay. make sure you get the right nominator.
John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Cargodog  
#35 Posted : 24 March 2015 12:07:27(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
I may look into that in the future, John. Right now I think I have enough on my plate, as ALL of this digital stuff is new to me. ;-)

What is the correct nominator for the choke coils? I just need to know what to search for.

Also, am I correct in stating that what I listed in my previous post is all I'd need?


Cheers, Rene
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline biedmatt  
#36 Posted : 24 March 2015 12:32:32(UTC)
biedmatt

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,343
Location: Southwest Ohio
I would stay away from the chokes. When I started my conversions three years ago, the dealer I bought my ESU decoders from said you do not need them. I have not lost a single decoder to missing chokes. I have lost a decoder when the motor brushes touched the metal loko housing. The large and bulky nature of the chokes makes damage due to the brushes touching the loko housing far more likely. It's a game of odds and I like my odds much better when I do not have them.
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397.
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by biedmatt
Offline river6109  
#37 Posted : 24 March 2015 15:23:31(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,636
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Matt, It may be the case whereas some dealers tell you that, but they are necessary, its not so much about the decoder itself but interference from other sources.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline kiwiAlan  
#38 Posted : 24 March 2015 20:28:36(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Cargodog Go to Quoted Post
Thanks again, guys.

It seems I'll be going for the ESU 54499 decoder and ESU 51968 adapter plate for all my lok's, as most of them are Steam, and I would like to uograde to telex coupler in the future. On that note, I guess I'd have to change the couplings on all my cars? Which means it's all or nothing if I convert to telex couplers, right?

So to summarize this thread, I'll need to buy the following:

A) A combination of motors (60941, 60943, 60944, and 188838) that I've mentioned earlier in this thread, I should be good on the motor side of things.

B) To compliment the motors, I'll buy the ESU 54499 decoders and 51968 adapter plates for all trains.

C) To program my decoders, I'll buy the lok programmer 53451.

Other than the chokes that Tom mentioned (which I'll try to source now), is there anything else I'll need for this project?

Update: I can't seem to find the Choke coils anywhere (neither from Marklin, nor from ESU). Does anyone have a link to a shop that sells them online?


Note that there is a version of the decoder that is slightly cheaper, but comes without the sound loaded. The sound files are available to download for free from the ESU web site, which should not be a problem as you are also getting a Lokprogrammer that is required to do the sound download.

Otherwise (using t5he model numbers on the ESU web site) you can order the decoders with the sound pre-loaded. The dealer will then probably take a blank one and load the sound file into it.

Note that Tom appeared to imply that the 21 pin adapter plate is supplied with the decoder, it isn't, you have to purchase it separately.

You may also like to get some of the fine wire that is often used to wire these up. Brawa supply small reels of suitable wire, each reel costs a couple of euros for 10 meters at Lokshop.

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
Offline Cargodog  
#39 Posted : 24 March 2015 21:06:38(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post


Note that there is a version of the decoder that is slightly cheaper, but comes without the sound loaded. The sound files are available to download for free from the ESU web site, which should not be a problem as you are also getting a Lokprogrammer that is required to do the sound download.

Otherwise (using t5he model numbers on the ESU web site) you can order the decoders with the sound pre-loaded. The dealer will then probably take a blank one and load the sound file into it.

Note that Tom appeared to imply that the 21 pin adapter plate is supplied with the decoder, it isn't, you have to purchase it separately.

You may also like to get some of the fine wire that is often used to wire these up. Brawa supply small reels of suitable wire, each reel costs a couple of euros for 10 meters at Lokshop.



Thanks, Alan,

I the 54499 is the LokSound with no sound loaded onto it, according the dealer I'm buying from. They don't have any LokSound that are cheaper. They're all the same price, with or without sound. ($124, which I think is a fair price).

Yeah, initially I read Tom's reply the same way, but I did find out that the adapter plates are sold separately. Thanks for the heads up, thouh.


Good idea with the wire. I'll put some of that in my shopping basket.

I take it, from your reply, that I should be covered by ordering the items mentioned.

Cheers, Rene
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#40 Posted : 24 March 2015 21:30:42(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Cargodog Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post


Note that there is a version of the decoder that is slightly cheaper, but comes without the sound loaded. The sound files are available to download for free from the ESU web site, which should not be a problem as you are also getting a Lokprogrammer that is required to do the sound download.

Otherwise (using t5he model numbers on the ESU web site) you can order the decoders with the sound pre-loaded. The dealer will then probably take a blank one and load the sound file into it.

Note that Tom appeared to imply that the 21 pin adapter plate is supplied with the decoder, it isn't, you have to purchase it separately.

You may also like to get some of the fine wire that is often used to wire these up. Brawa supply small reels of suitable wire, each reel costs a couple of euros for 10 meters at Lokshop.



Thanks, Alan,

I the 54499 is the LokSound with no sound loaded onto it, according the dealer I'm buying from. They don't have any LokSound that are cheaper. They're all the same price, with or without sound. ($124, which I think is a fair price).

Yeah, initially I read Tom's reply the same way, but I did find out that the adapter plates are sold separately. Thanks for the heads up, thouh.


Good idea with the wire. I'll put some of that in my shopping basket.

I take it, from your reply, that I should be covered by ordering the items mentioned.

Cheers, Rene


Yeah, you should be able to do everything you need to install the decoders with that lot.

Let us know how you get on.



Offline Cargodog  
#41 Posted : 25 March 2015 04:13:05(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
In that case, a HUGE thank you! to all who have helped me get to grips with my requirements for this project. You help has been invaluable, and I do appreciate it.

I'm amazed at the knowledge in this forum.

Ill be sure to update you on how i fare. No doubt there will be a fair few questions during the process. ;-)


Cheers, Rene...
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline Cargodog  
#42 Posted : 02 April 2015 13:40:48(UTC)
Cargodog

Denmark   
Joined: 29/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 132
Location: Middle east
Hi again,

When converting my steam lok's I'll want to install seuthe smoke generators. I've tried researching online, but can't find the info I need. Can anyone help me by confirming which smoke generators I'll need for the lok's listed below? They need to be able to turned on/off via my Ecos II, so I guess I'll need to buy the wired version. I just don't know wich size fits my various lok's. Answers to this would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a list of the lok's in question:

3106
3097
37038

3085 - can anyone confirm I'd need the 7226?
3048 - can anyone confirm I'd need the 7226?

Thanks, Rene
If everything's under control, you're just not going fast enough.
There are two types of men. Those who want to build a big layout, and those who didn't get permission from the wife.
Offline oertem  
#43 Posted : 07 February 2019 11:45:15(UTC)
oertem

United States   
Joined: 19/09/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1
Location: Portland
Hi CargoDog,

When I did a search on "3106, seuthe, Loksound v4" over the forum, I hit your thread.
Are you still interested in Seuthe installation on 3106.
Because I think I managed to install one, and tell you how.

Ozcan
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